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A 

STATISTICAL AND COMMERCIAL 

HISTORY 

OF THE 

KINGDOM OF GUATEMALA, 

IN 
CONTAINING 

IMPORTANT PARTICULARS 

KELATIVE TO ITS 

CUSTOMS, &c. &c. &c. 

WITH AN ACCOUNT of its 

CONQUEST BY THE SPANIARDS, 

AND A NARRATIVE OF THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS DOWN TO 

THE 7RESZSNT TIME: 

FROM ORIGINAL RECORDS IN THE ARCHIVES; ACTUAL OBSEIIVATION ; 
AND OTHER AUTHENTIC SOURCES. 



By don DOMINGO JUARROS, 

A NATIVE OF NEW GUATEMALA. 



Tr/nslated by J. BAILY, Lieutenant R. M, 



EMBELLISHED WITH MAPS. 



LONDON: 

GEORGE COWIE AND CO. 31, POULTRY ; SMITH, ELDER, AND CO, 
65, CORNHILL3 AND JOHN HEARNE, 81, STRAND. 

1825. 







ii 



/\ V- 



THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE 

VISCOUNT MELVILLE, 

FIRST LOUD OF THE ADMIRALTY, 

&c. &c. Sec. 



My Lord, 

Permission to lay before the Public an 
English Version of the History of Guatemala, under 
your Auspices, is an honour that calls forth my 
anxiety as well as my gratitude ; the latter for your 
condescension, and the former, lest the production 
should not be found to merit such a distinction. 

Sensible that the sanction of your Lord- 
ship's name will draw attention towards any work it 
is affixed to, I shall deem myself peculiarly fortunate, 
should the present one pass the ordeal of public 
examination, without subjecting me to censure for 
having unworthily sought eminent patronage to an 
undeserving performance. 

I am, 

My Lord, 
Your Lordship's most obedient. 

And very humble servant, 

J. BAILY. 

Kennington, January, 1823. 



PREFACE. 



As Spanish America will probably, in a 
short time, open a most extensive field for 
the employment of British capital and Bri- 
tish industry, and ultimately prove an inex- 
haustible source of advantage to the various 
branches of our manufactures and commerce, 
every work, how humble soever its preten- 
sions may be, that, upon good authority, can 
furnish something in addition to the very 
slender stock of information we already pos- 
sess, of any portion of that interesting Coun- 
try, will, perhaps, be acceptable to the Public. 

With the] hope of contributing towards a 
more general knowledge of the Kingdom of 
Guatemala, the following Work has been 
translated: should that^hope be reahzed,the 
production will be duly appreciated : on 
the contrary, if nothing worthy of notice 
be presented, it will share the fate of many 
other books, and either be wholly neglected 
or soon forgotten. The Author, Don Do- 
mingo JuARRos, being a dignified Secular 



VI 

Ecclesiastic, and Synodal Examiner of the 
Archbishopric of Guatemala : his rank gave 
him access to Records in the departments 
of Government, as well as to those of the 
different Convents : the exercise of his offi- 
cial duties occasioned him to visit various 
parts of the Country, which afforded him 
every facility of making observations upon 
them ; of the more remote districts, to which 
personal inspection did not extend, his con- 
nexion with the Clergy enabled him to ob- 
tain accurate information from the heads of 
the different Curacies, so that it may be 
fairly said, his materials have been drawn 
from sources that stamp upon them the cha- 
racter of authenticity : for these, or for the 
manner in which they have been used, the 
Translator does not presume to solicit parti- 
cular favour ; they are submitted to the 
tribunal of Public Opinion, before which, 
their merits, and his own humble efforts to 
make them known to the English reader, 
will receive such an award as is impartially 
due to them. 

In a country where Catholicism governs 
with autocratic despotism, and where the 



Vll 



general mass of population possesses no 
more of the lights of science, than the ruling 
power, for reasons well adapted to preserve 
an unlimited sway, thinks proper to permit, 
it follows, almost as a matter of course, 
that w^hen an Author, who is a dignitary of 
the Church, writes a History of that Coun- 
try, how liberal soever in sentiment, and 
little tinctured with bigotrj^ he may be, the 
minutiae of religion will, from various and 
very cogent causes, form a prominent fea- 
ture in his work ; and the original of the 
present account abounds in passages of this 
description : but as introducing this portion 
of it into the Translation would have nearly 
doubled the size, and consequently much in- 
creased the price of the book, without con- 
tributing to make it more generally inte- 
resting; many chapters have therefore been 
entirely omitted : yet, that the reader m^j 
not remain wholly uninformed of theirimport 
he is presented with the heads of some of 
them, viz. Of the Metropolitan Church of 
Guatemala, with a History of the Image of 
Nuestra Seiiora del Socorro worshipped in 
it. — Of the Convents in the City of Guate- 



mala. — Of the Nunneries and Religious 
Houses for Females. — Of inferior Religious 
Orders or Fraternities. — Of the Parishes and 
Chapels of the City, with their Religious 
Festivals. — Of the Coronation of the Image 
of St. Joseph. — Of Festivals celebrated in 
the Cathedral. — A Chronological Account 
of the Governors and Captains-General of 
the Kingdom. — Idem of the Archbishops and 
Bishops of the different Dioceses. — Idem of 
illustrious Ecclesiastics, and other individuals 
who have flourished in the Capital, — and se- 
veral others of similar character. 

Should the Volume be the means of excit- 
ing diligent and scientific inquirers to make 
farther researches, in a Country that presents 
so many objects worthy of careful investiga- 
tion, the intent of its publication will be 
amply fulfilled. 

J. B. 



STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION 



OF 



GUATEMALA. 



PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 

The innumerable advantages, and the great uti- 
lity resulting from the study of history, are uni- 
versally acknowledged. It not only delights the 
mind, by recounting the extraordinary events of 
distant countries, by relating the prowess of those 
who have preceded us in the calendar of time, 
and by recording the exploits of our ancestors ; 
but it will teach us the manner in which we ought 
to conduct ourselves on occasions of difficulty, 
by holding up to view what prudent and sensible 
men have done in similar circumstances ; it will 
animate us to the performance of noble actions, 
by setting before us the glorious examples of our 
predecessors ; and it will eternize the memory of 
heroes, long since withdrawn from the great 
theatre of life, who by their achievements have 
dignified the human race. From these advantages 
the city of Guatemala has been hitherto excluded ; 
its annals have found no recorder ; and its history 



has had no existence, except in the earnest desire 
of its true patriots.^' 

Geography and chronology being indispensable 
to our purpose, we will treat of them before en- 
tering upon our historical part^ in order that our 
readers may set out upon a road provided with 
every convenience for pursuing an unobstructed 
journey. With this intention the following Pre- 
liminary Treatises have been composed. In the 
first, the history of Guatemala will be commenced, 
by giving a geographical description of the whole 
kingdom ; in the second, this will be followed by 
a chronicle, or chronological index of the rise, 
progress, and incidents most worthy of notice, 
and an account of the principal political bodies 
of the chief city. These, it is hoped, will smooth 
the v^ay for persons who possess the requisite 
talents, and sufficient store of information, to un- 
dertake a work so much desired as the History 
of Guatemala, on a more extensive plan. 

In order that the information conveyed by the 
ensuing pages may be distinguished by critical 
exactness, recourse has not been had to books of 
geography and general histories of the Indies; 
works which, from their great extension, cannot 
be free from mistakes and inaccuracies, how care- 
ful soever their authors may have been to avoid 
them ; but we have drawn our materials from the 
chronicles of the provinces, from the records of 
the Dominican and Franciscan convents in the 
city of Guatemala, from authentic manuscripts, 

* The monarchs of Spain have been so fully convinced of the 
great importance of this subject, that they have, at various 
periods, commanded the history of the kingdom of Guatemala 
to be written, as appears from the Ordonnances of Dec. 19, 
1533, Aug, 16, 1572, Sept. 23, 1580, and Feb. 13, 1581. 



and from the communications of persons whose 
veracity can be depended upon. But with all 
these advantages we do not pretend to a total 
exemption from errors, and some trifling incor- 
rectness ; for there are many causes which may 
occasion mistakes in the relation of facts, when 
the narrator has not been a witness to them ; and 
in the description of countries, if he has not tra- 
velled over them. Such causes arise from the 
carelessness of informants, the insufficient expla- 
nation of writers, the ambiguity of terms by which 
they communicate their ideas, and the fallibility 
of the human memory. The reader is entreated 
to bear these in mind, if by chance he should 
meet in the following treatises with any observa- 
tions that may be found inaccurate. 



B 2 



TREATISE THE FIRST. 



Succinct Notices of the natural and political 
History of the principal Places, 

Towards the end of the fifteenth century, it 
pleased divine Providence that the light of Chris- 
tianity should dawn in the horizon of the vast 
regions of the west ; that the inhabitants of the 
ancient continent should become acquainted with 
the reality of millions of their own species, who, 
in the judgment of many learned men, existed 
only in the imagination of a few philosophic indi- 
viduals ; and that a country should then be dis- 
covered, which, for its immense extent, and the 
rarity of its productions, received the name of the 
New World. A discovery of so much importance 
required that those who had made it, should im- 
mediately communicate their good fortune to all 
the world with the most scrupulous exactness ; 
but although three centuries have elapsed, we see, 
wdth the greatest astonishment, that provinces, 
and even whole kingdoms, on this spacious con- 
tinent, are at this time as little known to the 
world in general, as if they had but just been dis- 
covered. This is the fact, not only in the Arctic 
and Antarctic lands, where the Spaniards have 
never set foot ; but it is the case also in those 
countries which they have been in possession of 
ever since their first arrival. With a blush for our 
ignorance, we must reckon in the latter number 



the kingdom of Guatemala, one of the richest in 
America, not so much from its mines of gold and 
silver, as from the incredible numbers of useful 
and rare productions in the animal, vegetable, and 
mineral worlds that are found in it. To be con- 
vinced of the truth of this assertion, it is only 
necessary to open a book of geography, and we 
shall perceive that provinces the most flourish- 
ing, and places the most important, are not no- 
ticed ; where towns are mentioned, it is scarcely 
more than to record their names : the few that 
are described in any thing like detail, are repre- 
sented under so many circumstances of error and 
falsehood, as to remain as much unknown (so far 
as their actual state is concerned) as they ever 
were. How can this kingdom be known so fully 
as it deserves to be, so long as there does not 
exist a correct delineation of its provinces ? How 
can such a description be furnished by the inha- 
bitants of the old world, when we, who have been 
born and brought up in Guatemala, encounter 
difficulties in acquiring correct information re- 
lative to very many places within its boundaries ? 
These reflections have induced me to undertake 
this task, notwithstanding serious apprehensions 
that my talents are too humble for the skilful per- 
formance of such a work, as well as the convic- 
tion of its remaining in some respects incomplete, 
from the circumstance of my being the first to at- 
tempt the subject; but the want of a work of this 
nature leads me to hope it may be favourably re- 
ceived by the public. It has been my study to 
avoid too great a prolixity, and with this view a 
detailed description of villages has been omitted ; 
for it would occasion numerous repetitions, and 



produce a narrative at once insipid and mono- 
tonous, as in fact they differ but very little from 
each other ; therefore such only as offer some- 
thing peculiar and worthy of being known will 
meet with particular notice. 



CHAP. I. 

Of the Kingdom of Guatemala in general. 

This kingdom received its name of Guatemala 
from the word Quanhteraali (which in the Mexi- 
can language means a decayed log of wood), be- 
cause the Mexican Indians, who accompanied 
Alvarado, found near the court of the kings of 
Kachiquel, an old worm-eaten tree, and gave this 
name to the capital. The Spaniards continued it 
to the city which they built ; and from the city 
they gave the same appellation to the whole king- 
dom. Some writers have derived it from U-hate- 
z-mal-ha, words that, in the Tzendal language, 
signify a mountain that throws out water; doubt- 
less alluding to the mountain on the skirts of 
which the city of Guatemala was built. The 
kingdom of Guatemala extends from the S2nd 
to the 95th degree of longitude west of Green- 
wich : and from the 8th to the 17th degree of 
north latitude ; so that in length it is 13 degrees,, 
making 227 leagues (Spanish) of I7f to a degree,^ 
or 260 English geographical leagues ; but the tra- 
velling distance may be calculated at more than 
700 Spanish leagues, from the Chilillo, which 
bounds the territory of the audiencia of Mexico 
to Chiriqui, where the jurisdiction of the province 
of Santa F6 de Bogota terminates. It embraces 
9 degrees in breadth from the most southerly 



lands of Costa Rica, to the most northerly part of 
the province of Chiapa. The range of the land 
from one sea to the other, that is, from the Pacific 
to the Atlantic, where it is the greatest^ is 180 
leagues ; and, where least, not less than 60. On 
the west, the kingdom of Guatemala is bounded 
by the Intendencia of Oaxaca in New Spain, on 
the north-west by the Intendencia of Yucatan, 
on the south-east by the province of Vera-guas in 
the kingdom of Terra Firma, a district of the au- 
diencia of Santa F6; on the south and south- 
west by the Pacific Ocean, and on the north by 
the Atlantic Ocean. The jurisdiction of the 
royal chancery of Guatemala, therefore, extends 
on the shores of the Atlantic from the coast of 
Walis in the Bay of Honduras, to the Escudo de 
Veraguas ;* and from the bar of the river Parre- 
don in the province of Soconusco, to the mouth of 
the river Boruca^ in the province of Costa Rica 
on the Pacific; and by land from the river Chilillo 
in the province of Oaxaca, to the district of Chiri- 
qui in the province of Veraguas. 

The air of this region is generally salubrious, 
except on the sea coast to the northward. The 
whole of the country is an alternation of moun- 
tains and plains, which causes a diversity of tem- 
perature highly favourable to the productions of 
every climate. The soil is so fertile as to yield 
fruits, even on the mountains, without cultivation; 
and so great is the variety, that there are reckoned 
more than 40 genera ; and in many of these there 
are distinct species. There are, for example, 3 spe- 
cies of plantain, 4 of apples, 5 of pine-apples, 5 

* A small desert island near the coast of the province of 
Veraguas in 9 deg. 21 min. north latitude, and 82 deg, 4(j min. 
west longitude : it was discovered by Columbus. 



8 

of peaches, 3 of sapotes, more than 10 of jocotes, 
and also of many others : from these advantages 
there is always a great abnndance of fruits in every 
season of the year. The species of flovi^ers that 
beautify the gardens are not less numerous ; and 
the plenty of culinary vegetables is equally copi- 
ous. There is a great variety of grain, as the 
maize, which is so fruitful as to yield 100 for one, 
and in some parts even 500 fold, besides pro- 
ducing two, and sometimes three harvests a year; 
wheat, barley, rice, and sessamum, a sort of Indian 
corn. Of pulse, there are various species of 
kidney beans, garbanzos, or Spanish peas, lentils, 
beans and several others: to speak generally, this 
soil is not deficient in any thing, either for the 
necessaries or for the luxuries of life. 

Besides those just mentioned there are many 
other productions that would supply the means 
of carrying on an extensive commerce ; for in- 
stance, a great number of very valuable woods, 
such as cedar, caoba or red wood, granadillo, 
ronron, brasil, purple wood, mahogany, guayacan, 
mangrove, and many others ; many medicinal 
plants, fruits, and woods, as jiote, palo de la vida, 
copalchi, sarsaparilla, hellebore, contrayerba, 
musk, canchalagua, calaguala, tea, coffee, ginger, 
mechoacan, julep, cassia, tamarinds, &c. A pro- 
fusion of gums and balsams, estimable for their 
fragrance, curative virtues, or other uses; as tur- 
pentine, Carana, Leche de Maria (a gum) dragons' 
blood, amber, white and black balsam, and oil of 
balsam ; a number almost infinite, of productions 
that minister both to the necessities and the 
luxuries of life : among them are cochineal, achiote, 
pepper, lacre, bastard saffron, chiapa pepper. 



9 
vanilla, hides, sulphur, saltpetre, sal ammoniac, 
purple (from the murex), mother of pearl, tortoi- 
shelly cordage, sail cloth, cotton of various kinds, 
tobacco, and, above all, sugar, cocoa, and indigo. 
These are the principal articles of the commerce 
of the kingdom, and the tv^^o last are the best that 
are known of their species. 

The different kinds of animals bred in this 
country are almost innumerable; for besides nearly 
all those common to Europe, and peculiar to 
America, as the danta, the armadillo, the tepis- 
quinte, the alligator, the guana, lories, and parrots 
of various kinds and exquisite feather; there are 
some that are peculiar to this region, as the zor- 
rilla a small fox, and the quezal, a beautiful bird, 
the plumage of which is highly esteemed. 

The earth abounds with mines of gold, silver, 
iron, lead, talc, and other minerals. There are 
several volcanoes, from which, at various periods, 
there have been many and great eruptions : the 
most celebrated are those of Tajumulco in the 
province of Quezal tenango; Atitan in the province 
of Solola; Guatemala in the province of Chimal- 
tenango ; Pacaya in the province of Sacatepe- 
ques ; Izalco in the province of Zonzonate ; those 
of St. Salvador, and St. Michael, in the inten- 
dancy of St. Salvador; and those of Momotombo 
and Mazaya in that of Nicaragua. 

The kingdom is watered by rivers and small 
streams innumerable. Of these some disembogue 
into the sea to the northward, and others to the 
southward ; of the first, the most navigable are 
the Fresh Gulf, the Motagua, the Camalecon, 
the Ulua, the Lean or Leones, the Aguan, the 
Limones, the Rio tinto, the Plantain river, the 



10 

Pantasma, the Mosquito, and the St. Juan. 
Among the second, the principal are the Guista, 
the Saiual^, the Xicalapa, the Michatoyat, the 
(Slave river, the Paza, the Zonzonate, the Lempa, 
the Viejo, the Nicaragua, and the Nicoya. There 
are also several lakes of which the most cele- 
brated is the lake of Granada, the largest; the 
Atitan, the Peten, and Araatitan. 

This region was formerly possessed by people 
of many different nations, each governed by its 
chief, and who were continually at war with each 
other ; hence it is that the present inhabitants 
speak so many different languages ; some using 
the Mexican, others the Quiche, Kachiqu^l, Sub- 
tujil. Mam, Pocomam, Poconchi, Chorti, Sinca, 
and many more. Although these tribes are of 
different origin, various in their manners, opposite 
in their inclinations, profess distinct faiths, adopt 
dissimilar customs, and speak each its peculiar 
language, yet at the present day they all concur 
in the exercise of the Catholic religion, which is 
the only one professed throughout the provinces, 
with the exception of some few idolaters, whom 
all the efforts and zeal of the ministers of the gos- 
pel have not been able to bring within the pale of 
Christianity. 

The principal part of the country was subdued 
in 1524, and following years, by Pedro de Alva- 
rado. At that period it was more populous than 
it now is ; for by the census taken in 1778 by 
order of the king, the population amounted to no 
more than 797,214; whereas, at the time of the 
conquest it was so numerous, that we are assured 
it was composed of more than 30 different na- 
tions. 



11 

The government of this widely-extended region 
is administered by the royal audiencia of Gua- 
temala, the president of which is governor and 
captain-general of the kingdom, having a great 
number of inferior officers for the better regula- 
tion of the provinces. The spiritual affairs are 
directed by the archbishop of Guatemala and 
three suffragans, except in the small district of 
Peten, which is under the charge of the bishop of 
Yucatan. The ecclesiastical division of the king- 
dom consists of four bishopricks, viz. Guatemala, 
that in quality of metropolitan extends over the 
whole kingdom ; but the peculiar territory of the 
archbishoprick of Guatemala stretches 214 leagues 
from the plains of Motocinta, the most westerly 
village of the diocess, to the boundaries of the 
curacy of Conchagua, the most easterly; and 
116 leagues from the Fresh Gulf on the north- 
ward to the shores of the Pacific southward. 
In this district there are 108 curacies, 23 collated 
curacies of regulars^ 16 under charge of the Do- 
minicans, 4 pf the Franciscans, and 3 of our Lady 
of Mercy ; 424 parochial churches, and 539,765 
inhabitants. This bishoprick was erected by Pope 
Paul the Third, by a bull bearing date December 
18, 1534 ; from that period to the present time 
the chair has been occupied by 7 archbishops 
and 16 bishops. The second bishoprick is Leon, 
having jurisdiction over the intendancy of Nica- 
ragua, and the government of Costa Rica : in it 
there are 39 curacies^ 3 establishments for the 
conversion of infidels, 88 parochial churches, and 
131,932 inhabitants. From its erection to the 
present time this diocess has had 37 bishops. 
The third is Ciudad Real, its jurisdiction com- 



12 

prehends the three divisions of the intendancy 
of Chiapa; it contains 38 curacies, lt)2 parish 
churches, and 69,253 inhabitants. The fourth is 
Comayagua, the jurisdiction of which is confined 
to the intendancy of Honduras ; within its terri- 
tory there are 35 curacies, 1 establishment for 
the conversion of infidels, 145 parish churches, 
and 88,143 inhabitants.* 

The civil government of the kingdom is at pre- 
sent divided into 15 provinces, of these 8 are su- 
perior alcaldias, viz, Totonicapan, Solola, Chi- 
maltenango, Sacatepeques, Zonzonate, Verapaz, 
Escuintla, and Suchiltepeques; two are corregi- 
dorships, Quezaltenango, and Chiquimula ; one a 
government, Costa Rica ; and four are intendan- 
cies, Leon, Ciudad Real, Comayagua, and St. 
Salvador. Five of these provinces are situated 
on the shores of the Pacific; five on the Atlantic, 
and five interior. 

* In computing the number of inhabitants of the kingdom, 
parishioners of the diocess, and inhabitants of the provinces, 
recourse has been had to the census taken by order of the King 
of Spain in 1788, as being the most recent and complete that 
could readily be consulted, because it gives the numbers in the 
separate provinces and districts. It may, hovv^ever, be consi- 
dered too low; for, by comparing it with the enumerations 
made by order of the bishops, there will be found a material dis- 
crepancy; if we add together the numbers of the different dis- 
tricts of the bishoprick of Comayagua in the royal census of 
1778, the amount will be no more than 81,143; whereas that 
taken by order of the bishop in 1791, makes the number 93,501. 
In Chiapa, in 1778, the number given was 62,253, but by a 
census in 1796 it was 99,001 : similar increase has been per- 
ceived in the other two diocesses. 



13 



CHAP. II. 

Of the Provinces on the Sea Coast to the 
Southward. 

Chiapa is the first province in this direction, 
proceeding from New Spain. It is bounded on 
the west by Oaxaca, on the east by Totonicapan 
and Suchiltepeques, on the north by Tabasco, 
on the north-east by Yucatan, and on the south 
by the Pacific Ocean. It enjoys every kind of 
climate ; its soil yields all the productions of the 
kingdom, animal as well as vegetable ; and it also 
produces the shrub which bears the Chiapa 
pepper. Father Remesal asserts, that the nations 
who inhabited this district came from the pro- 
vince of Nicaragua, and intrenched themselves 
so strongly here, that the kings of Mexico could 
never succeed in subduing them. When the 
Mexican empire fell, they spontaneously offered 
themselves as vassals to the king of Castile, 
and in his name rendered homage to Ferdinand 
Cortes ; but very soon after revolted. Cortes 
sent Diego de Mazariegos with a small force 
in 1524 to pacify them : in this object he easily 
succeeded, though he was scarcely returned to 
Mexico before they again rebelled. In 1527, 
Mazariegos came a second time to chastise them, 
but they were not subdued without fighting se- 
veral obstinate battles. From that period, there 
reigned an uninterrupted peace between the 
Spaniards and Indians of this part until 1712, 
when the people of the province of Tzendales, 
joining with those of Chiapa, amounting in all 
to 32 towns, formed an alliance against the 



14 

invaders, became apostates to the faith they 
had long professed, profaned the sacred edifices, 
put many ministers of the gospel to cruel deaths, 
paid impious adoration to an Indian female, and 
committed many other atrocities. By the zealous 
exertions of Toribio Cosio, president of the 
royal audiencia^ who set out immediately from 
Guatemala, with a well-appointed force, the 
whole of the revolted towns were recovered to 
the Catholic faith, and the former peace and 
tranquillity restored. This important service 
was rewarded by his majesty's conferring the 
title of Marquis of Torre Campo upon the pre- 
sident. Oa the 21st of November, the day on 
which the victory was obtained, there is annually 
celebrated a solemn thanksgiving in the cathe- 
drals of Guatemala and Ciudad Real, at which 
all the constituted authorities attend. 

What now forms the intendancy of Chiapa, 
was, in the period of its Paganism, divided into 
five provinces, peopled by -as many different na- 
tions, who have, to the present day, preserved 
their distinct idioms, viz. Chiapa, Llanos, Tzen- 
dales, Zoques, and Soconusco. Of the last, the 
Spaniards formed the government of Soconusco ; 
and of the other four the alcaldia mayor of 
Ciudad Keal : by a royal order in the year 1764, 
the latter was again subdivided to form the al- 
caldia mayor of Tuxtla, which is composed of 
the districts of Chiapa and Zoques ; whilst those 
of Llanos and Tzendales remain to that of Ciu- 
dad Real. In 1790, the intendancy of Chiapa 
was created, and these three districts were 
united under the jurisdiction of the intendant, 
who resides in Ciudad Real, and has a deputy 



15 

in each of the places, Tuxtla, Soconiisco, and 
Comitan. 

The first division, or that of Ciudad Real, con- 
tains 1 city, which is the capital, and the only 
one of the province, 1 tovi^n, and 56 villages ; 
these are divided into 20 curacies, and all together 
contain a population of 40,277 souls. 

Ciudad Real is the capital of this division of 
the intendancy, and of the bishoprick of Chiapa. 
It W3.S founded by Diego de Mazariegos with 
the view of keeping in subjection the province, 
which with so much difficulty he had recovered. 
On the 4th of March, 1528, this commander as= 
sembled the chiefs of his army, and appointed 2 
alcaldes, 6 regidors, a chief alguacil, a major- 
domo, and a procurator. On the 31st of the 
same month the new town was begun on the spot 
where the city now stands. It was at first called 
Villa Real, then Villa Viciosa, and afterward 
Villa de St. Christoval de los Llanos, by which 
name it is mentioned in some public documents in 
the year 1531 : finally, by an order, dated 7th July, 
1536, the Emperor Charles the Fifth commanded 
it should be called Ciudad Real, and granted to 
it the honours of a city ; the preceding year he 
had assigned to it armorial bearings, viz. a shield, 
with a river between two mountains, upon one of 
them a castle, Or, and a lion rampant ; on the 
summit of the other a palm-tree. Vert, and an- 
other lion ; the whole upon a field, Gules. The 
church of Villa Real was dedicated to the An- 
nunciation of the Virgin, but when the name of 
the town was changed to St. Christoval, the same 
appellation was given to the church ; Pope Paul 
the Third elevated it to the episcopal dignity, and 



16 

nominated the licentiate, Juan Arteaga, a friar of 
the order of Saint Jago, as the first bishop. For 
the service of the church there is a chapter, 
composed of a dean, an archdeacon, a precentor, 
an instructor of the clergy (maestre escuela), and 
a canon ; there are also a curate-rector, a chief 
sacristan, 6 chaplains, and 4 acolytes; there is 
a college, which is a magnificent building, and 
a very handsome chapel. The city contains but 
one parish, that of the cathedral ; it has four 
convents, viz, our Lady of Mercy, founded in 
the year 1537 ; St. Domingo, in 1545 ; St. Fran- 
cisco, established in 1575 ; and St. Juan de Dios, 
the hospital of v^^hich was built by Juan Bautista 
Alvares de Toledo, bishop of Chiapa; and the 
convent of La Concepcion, for females; there 
was also a college of Jesuits. Besides these 
there is a church dedicated to our Lady of Cha- 
rity ; without the city there are two oratories, one 
of St. Nicholas^ the other of St. Christopher; 
and 5 barrios, or wards of the Indians, with their 
respective chapels. The population is small, 
being only 3333 individuals, and about 500 In- 
dians in the barrios. In this city were born 
Francisco Salcedo, of the order of St. Fran- 
cisco, who was highly esteemed for his sanctity, 
and of whom, by a certain class of people, many 
miracles are related ; and Diego del Saz, of the 
same order, a man of most exemplary virtue, 
whose body is said, on the same authority as the 
preceding miracles, to have remained 50 years 
uncorrupted after its interment. In the vicinity 
of the city there are several caverns, where very 
beautiful specimens of stalactites are found. 
Ciudad Real is situated in 16 deg. 35 min. of 



17 

north lat. and 94 deg. 16 min. long, west from 
Greenwich ; distant 130 leagues north-west of 
Guatemala. 

St. Fernando de Guadalupe, a town situated 
on the bank of the river Tulija, nine leagues 
distant from Tunibala ; its population is rather 
more than 200 Indians, with a few Spanish and 
Mulatto families. The soil is fertile, and well 
suited to the cultivation of cocoa, sugar, pepper, 
and many other articles ; the river supplies an 
abundant variety of fish ; the climate is hot, but 
by no means in the extreme. The town was 
founded by the iutendant Don Agustine de las 
Cuentas Zayas, in the year 1794, with the view of 
facilitating the navigation of the Tulija, and, by 
its means, of opening a couimunication with 
Campeche, the lake of Terminos, the garrison of 
Carmen, and other contiguous points : the suc- 
cessful progress of this design during the first six 
years has clearly shewn the advantages of the un- 
dertaking. 

St. Domingo Sinacantan, a very ancient village, 
that formerly belonged to the Mexican empire, 
and from which the Mexicans directed their 
attacks upon the Chapanecos; contains about 
2000 inhabitants. In the vicinity of this place 
there is found a species of small stones of a steel 
colour, and of a cubic figure, two or three lines 
in length, called St. Anne's stones ; they are very 
medicinal^ and it is asserted that persons suffer- 
ing under hysterical affections, receive relief from 
drinking water in which they have been boiled. 

St. Juan Chamula, a village remarkable only 
for its numerous population, which exceeds 6000 
persons. 

c 



18 

St. Bartholomew de los Llanos is also a very 
large village ; it has two churches, and the popu- 
lation, including that of some contiguous culti- 
vated possessions, amounts to 7410 souls. 

St. Domingo Comitan, is the residence of the 
deputy-intendant of the province, and celebrated 
for its commerce; there is a good convent of the 
Dominicans ; with the inhabitants of some neigh- 
bouring plantations the population amounts to 
0815 persons. 

St. Jacinto Ocosingo, chief place of the pro- 
vince of Tzendales, has more than 3000 inha- 
bitants. 

St. Domingo Palenqne a village in the pro- 
vince of Tzendales, on the borders of the inten- 
dancies of Ciudad Real and Yucatan. It is the 
head of acuracy; in a wild and salubrious climate, 
but very thinly inhabited, and now celebrated 
from having within its jurisdiction the vestiges of 
a very opulent city, which has been named Ciu- 
dad del Palenque ; doubtless^ formerly the capital 
of an empire whose history no longer exists. 
This metropolis, — like another Herculaneum, not 
indeed overwhehiied by the torrent of another 
Vesuvius, but concealed for ages in the midst 
of a vast desert, — remained unknown until the 
middle of the eighteenth century, when some 
Spaniards having penetrated the dreary solitude, 
found themselves, to their great astonishment, 
within sight of the remains of what once had been 
a superb city, of six leagues in circumference; 
the solidity of its edifices, the stateliness of its 
palaces, and the magnificence of its public 
works, were not surpassed in importance by its 
vast extent; temples, altars, deities, sculptures. 



29 

and monumental stones, bear testimony to its 
great antiquity. The hieroglyphics, symbols, 
and emblems, which have been discovered in the 
temples, bear so strong a resemblance to those of 
the Egyptians, as to encourage the supposition 
that a colony of that nation may have founded 
the city of Palenque, or Culhuacan. The same 
opinion may be formed respecting that of Tulha, 
the ruins of which are still to be seen near the 
village of Ocosingo in the same district. 

DISTRICT OF TUXTLA. 

The second division of the province of Chiapa 
is that of Tuxtla, which has been before men- 
tioned as having formed part of the alcaldia 
mayor of Ciudad Real, and afterward consti- 
tuting a separate alcaldia; it is now a sub- 
delegation of the intendancy of Chiapa, contain- 
ing 19,898 inhabitants, distributed into 33 villages, 
which form 13 curacies. 

The most considerable village in this district is 
Tuxtla, the chief place, and residence of the al- 
calde mayor, who is coadjutor of the deputy-in- 
tendant. The population consists of a few fa- 
milies of Spaniards, some of Mulattoes, and a 
much greater number of Indians, the whole 
amounting to 4280 persons. There are here a 
custom-house, a post-office, and a manufactory 
of tobacco. It is 140 leagues distant from Gua- 
temala and 18 from Ciudad Real. 

Chiapa de Indios, a very ancient and large vil- 
lage, founded by Diego de Mazariegos in 1 527. It 
has two churches, and contains 1568 inhabitants. 

Tecpatlan, capital of the province of the Zo- 
ques has 2290 individuals. 

c2 



20 



DISTRICT OF SOCONUSCO. 



The third division of this province is Soco- 
nusco. It extends 58 leagues along the shores of 
the Pacific, from the plains of Tonala, that border 
tipon the jurisdiction of Teguantepeque, to the 
river Tilapa, which divides it from Suchiltepe- 
ques; its breadth ranges from the sea to the 
mountains, vvhich, where greatest, is about 16 
leagues. The climate is extremely hot ; the coun- 
try level, pleasant, and fertile ; it is watered by 
15 rivers, that increase the fruitfulness of it to a 
great degree; yet, from want of hands, very little 
of the land is under cultivation, consequently its 
precious productions are taken but little advan- 
tage of. It abounds in woods of the most exqui- 
site kinds, delicious fruits, and medicinal plants : 
indigo, achiote, vanilla, leche de maria (a valu- 
able gum), cotton, pita (a species of flax), and a 
great many different sorts of drugs. The prin- 
cipal articles of the commerce now carried on, are 
cocoa, the most esteemed of any in the kingdom, 
and fish caught in the rivers, and on eight fishing- 
banks on the coast. There is also some salt manu- 
factured; and that produced upon the estate called 
St. Paul, where no other process than condensing 
the water is required, is as good as the most cele- 
brated of Teguantepeque. In proportion as the 
valuable products of the earth in this beautiful 
country are numerous, the abundance of wild 
beasts and reptiles* is so great as to render it in- 

* Among the innumerable reptiles that infest the province of 
Soconusco, and others on the coast of the Pacific, there is a spe- 
cies of wasp called Ahorcadoras (hangers), which deserves parti- 
cular mention, from the singularity of the only remedy for pre- 



21 

tolerable and almost uninhabitable. This was 
the first province in the kingdom that Pedro de 
Alvarado conquered in 1524; it originally ap- 
pertained to the jurisdiction of the audiencia 
of Mexico, but in 1553 it was transferred to that 
of Guatemala. It contains 20 villages, and se- 
veral plantations, forming together 5 curacies; 
the number of inhabitants amounts to 9078. The 
vernacular language of Soconusco is the Mam, 
but the natives generally speak the Spanish. 

St. Domingo Escuintla is now the head of a 
curacy ; it was formerly the residence of the go- 
vernor, and thenof the intendant's deputy, until the 
year 1794, when a violent tempest destroying the 
cacaguatales or cocoa plants, and other trees, the 
commerce and population were both so much di- 
minished, that the sub-intendant removed to Ta- 
pachula, a village that carries on a moderate 
commerce, and contains about 2000 inhabitants 
of all casts. 

The province of Chiapa lies between 14 deg. 
40 min. and 17 deg. 30 min. north lat., and 93 deg. 
16 min. and 95 deg. 46 min. west long. : in which 
space there are 1 city^ 1 town, 1 valley, and 109 
villages : the whole population is 69,253 souls. 

THE PROVINCE OF SUCHILTEPEQUES, 

The second province, in travelling from west 
to east, is Suchiltepeques ; bounded on the west 
by Soconusco, on the east by Escuintla, on the 
north by Quezaltenango, on the north-east by So- 
lold, and on the south by the Pacific : its length by 

venting the death of persons who are stung by them, which is to 
plunge the sufferer immediately into the water; or to compress 
tJie throat in the manner of hanging, until he is nearly exhausted. 



22 

the coast is 32 leagues ; and the breadth from the 
sea to the mountains 22 ; but all the villages are 
contained within the small space of 12 leagues; 
there were formerly many more, and much more 
populous than they are at present; for it only 
contains 8 curacies, formed by 16 villages; and 
the inhabitants of these, of the salt-works, farms, 
and manufactories, do not exceed 15,000. The 
cliaiate is warm, but less so than that of Soco- 
nusco. The province is watered by 16 rivers ; of 
these the Samala^ that runs through the districts 
of Quezaltenango and Totonicapan, and the Na- 
gualate, that discharges itself into the sea, under 
the name of the Xicalapa, are the most important. 
It is fertile from its situation and abundance of 
wa'ter, and well wooded ; it produces all the 
fruits, timber, gums, and medicinal plants, pecu- 
liar to the climate ; but the chief article of com- 
merce is cocoa, so excellent in quality as to be 
preferred by many to that which is produced in 
Soconusco. The cultivation of this valuable 
commodity is materially decreased since the pro- 
vince of Caraccas has been the great mart for it; 
but recently it has been attempted to bring back 
the traffic to its ancient footing, and not with- 
out success, as former harvests only produced 
about 4000 loads^ and the last yielded half as much 
more, or 6000. The people of Suchiltepeques 
also trade in cotton and sapuyul.^ The Quiche 

* Sapuyul is the kernel of the sapote, a fruit about six inches 
in length ; the kernel, which is from two to three inches, is en- 
closed in a shell, like a filbert ; around tlie shell there is a pulp 
of a fine scarlet colour, as beautiful to the eye as it is delicious 
to the taste; over this there is a hardish rind. The Indians and 
poor people mix the sapuyul with cocoa to make chocolate. The 
abundance of sapotes is so great in this province, that the fruit 



23 

language is generally spoken by the natives. 
This province was subdued by Pedro de Al- 
varado in 1524, and is now governed by an al- 
calde mayor, who is commandant of the four 
companies of militia within his jurisdiction. 

St. Antonio Suchiltepeques, the ancient capital 
of the province to which it gave name, is now so 
insignificant a village, as to be only the shadow of 
what it has been, but the remains of it still shew 
some of its former opulence; among these is the 
church, which is capacious and magnificent. 

St. Bartholomew Mazatenango is the present 
capital of the province, and has been the residence 
of the chief alcalde since the decrease of popula- 
tion in St. x4ntonio : the number of inhabitants 
in tliis place is 2151, among whom are a few Spa- 
niards ; the chief articles of commerce produced 
here are cocoa and cotton. It is situated in 14 
deg. 20 min. north lat., and 92 deg. 26 min. west 
long. ; distant 40 leagues from Guatemala. 

St. Lorenzo el Real, one league distant from 
the preceding, is a very small village, remarkable 
only for the pilgrimages made to it by the people 
of the surrounding provinces, to visit the image of 
our Lady de la Candelaria, which is worshipped 
in the church. 

Cuyotenango, the head of a curacy, is a mocFe- 
rately large village. 

Zamayaque is a village in the mildest tempe- 
rature of the district, from being situated near the 
mountains; besides the cultivation of cocoa, the 
inhabitants carry on many manufactories. 

is thrown away to obtain the sapuyul, of which the consumption 
is so general, that in Quezantenango alone the sale of it amounts 
to between 4 and 5000 dollars' worth annually. 



24 

St Antonio Retaluleuh, and St. Catharine 
Sacatepeques, are two villages separated only by 
a single street; this is the most commercial spot 
of the province, serving as a depot for the produc- 
tions of Soconusco and Teguantepeque : the first 
village contains 1577 Indians ; the second, 184 ; 
and in both there are 32 Spaniards, and 826 
Ladinos.^ 

THE PROVINCE OF ESCUINTLA. 

The third province is Escuintla, containing 10 
curacies, that comprise 23 Indian villages, and 11 
of Ladinos, the population of the whole amount- 
ing to 24,978 souls ; a very small number of in- 
habitants on a tract that stretches in length 80 
leagues from east to west, and exceeds 30 in 
breadth from north to south. In this province 
the Spanish language is generally spoken, but 
the mother-tongue is the Sinca. The climate is 
hot, yet there are spots where it is temperate, 
and in a few others it is even cold ; the soil is of 
the most fruitful description, which, considering 
the contiguity of the metropolis, might afford the 
means of securing an extensive and beneficial 
traffic ; but notwithstanding all these advantages, 
it carries on but very little trade, confined chiefly 
to fish, artificial salt/ maize (of this they gather 
three harvests a year), plantains, and other fruits, 
that are carried to the markets of Guatemala. It 
is bounded on the west by Suchiltepeques; on 
the east by Zonzonate ; on the north by Solola, 
Chimaltenango, and Sacatepeques ; on the north- 

* Ladino is the general name given to the Indians who pro- 
fess the Christian religion, to distinguish them from the uncon- 
verted natives. 



25 

east by Chiquimula ; and on the south by the 
Pacific Ocean : on this coast, about 40 leagues 
north-west of the port of Acajutia, there is a small 
bay, called in geographical maps the port of 
Guatemala ; this is erroneous^ it is not a port, nor 
has it any shelter whatever. Of the numerous 
rivers that water the district the most distinguished 
is the Michatoyat, which flows out of the lake 
Amatitan ; after a course of a few leagues, it has 
a fall or cascade, the largest in the kingdom, 
called the falls of St. Pedro Martyr (from being 
near a small village of that name), presenting one 
of the most agreeable points of view in the country; 
the river discharges itself into the Pacific, and 
forms the bar of Michatoyat. The Slave river 
(Rio de los Esclavos) attracts notice from the 
bridge that was built over it in 1592, by the city 
of Guatemala ; it is by far the finest and best 
constructed in the country, having 11 arches, 
and a handsome balustrade ; its whole length 
is 128 yards, and breadth 18. The river Guacalat 
rises in the province of Chimaltenango, passes 
by the site of old Guatemala, where it is called 
the Magdalena, and joined by the Rio Pensa- 
tivo: it then enters the alcaldia mayor of Es- 
cuintla, and in its lengthened course receives so 
many tributary streams that it becomes navigable, 
and finally disembogues into the Pacific, w^here 
it forms the bar of Istapa, celebrated for being 
the place where Pedro de Alvarado equipped his 
squadron in the year 1534. The province is di- 
vided into two districts, that anciently formed 
two alcaldias mayor ; the first called Escuintla, 
comprising the western part ; and the second 



26 

named Gtiazacapan extending over the eastern 
portion of it. 

DISTRICT OF ESCUINTLA. 

La Concepcion Escnintla is the chief place of 
a curacy and of the alcaldia mayor. It contains 
upwards of 2000 Indian inhabitants, about as 
many Ladinos, and a few families of Spaniards. 
Here is a magnificent parish-church, and also an 
oratory dedicated to St. Sebastian ; it formerly 
possessed four chapels, which have fallen to 
decay. This spot is much frequented by the in- 
habitants of Guatemala, in the months of January 
and February, for the purpose of bathing in a de- 
lightful river that flows close by it. It is 1 7 leagues 
from the capital in 14 deg. 15 min. north lat., and 
91 deg. 46 min. west long. 

Masagua, a small village of Ladinos, but much 
celebrated for an image of the Virgin, which is an 
object of veneration ; the faithful profess great 
devotion, and crowd in pilgriuiages to visit it. So 
great is the concourse usually assembled on the 
first Sunday in February, the day on which the 
festival is celebrated^ that to avoid the disorders 
incident to similar congregations, the archbishop 
has directed the effigy to be carried to the chief 
town for the solemnity, and to be replaced in its 
own church after the ceremony ; this has been the 
practice from the year 1791 to 1800. Masagua 
is 3 leagues from Concepcion. 

DISTRICT OF GUAZACAPAN. 

Guazacapan, on the sea-coast, w^as once a very 
large village, and had four oratories besides the 



27 

itiother-church ; its population is now 1720 In- 
dians, 18 Spaniards, and 346 Ladinos ; it is the 
head of a curacj^, and was anciently the capital of 
the alcaldia mayor of Guazacapan, which com- 
prised a part of the villages of this province ; but 
about the middle of the last century it w as added 
to Esciiintla. 

Santa CruzChiquimula, two leagues from Gua- 
zacapan, although the least ancient, is now the 
most populous place of the district ; it contains 
several families of Spaniards, 1108 Ladinos, and 
6144 Indians, who are chiefly employed in the 
cultivation of rice, with which they supply the 
capital. 

THE PROVINCE OF ZONZONATE 

Is the fourth, and, unlike the foregoing, is of 
very small extent, being only 18 leagues from east 
to west, and 13 from north to south; but it is 
very populous, reckoning 24,684 inhabitants, in 
one town, and 21 villages, which form 8 curacies. 
It is bounded on the south by the Pacific ; by the 
province of Escuintla on the west; by St. Salva- 
dor on the east ; and by St. Salvador and Chiqui- 
mula on the north. The climate is very hot, its 
productions all those peculiar to such a tem- 
perature, and of the best qualities ; its principal 
branches of trade are balsam, turpentine, gum 
lac, amber, and other resins; it yields also cotton, 
cocoa, sugar, indigo, sessamum, and rice; a con- 
siderable trade is likewise carried on in mats, 
that are woven of different colours by the natives, 
and used in Guatemala for covering rooms, &c. 
In this province stands mount Izaico, a volcano, 
well known for its repeated eruptions; that 



28 

,which took place in April 1798, was very violent, 
and lasted several days. The principal rivers of 
this province are, the Paza, which divides it from 
Escuintla, and another called Rio Grande, form- 
ed by almost innumerable springs of water, which 
have occasioned the name Zezontlatl to be given 
to a town situated on its bank; this name in the 
Mexican languages means 400 springs of water; 
by corruption of the word, the town is now called 
Zonzonate. 

Santissima Trinidad de Zonzonate, the capital 
of the province, is situated on the Rio Grande; it 
is a pleasant town, although the climate is very 
hot ; here the alcalde mayor resides ; there are 
also royal magazines and a treasury. The town 
council is composed of 2 alcaldes, a standard- 
bearer, a chief alguazil, a provincial alcalde, and 
a syndic. There are 441 Spaniards, 2795 Ladinos, 
and 165 Indians. Each of the orders of St. Do- 
mingo, St. Francisco, St. Juan, and La Merced, 
has a convent here. The church is very spacious; 
besides which there are three oratories, viz. Vera 
Cruz, Calvary, and our Lady of Pilar. On the 
opposite side of the river it has a suburb called 
the Barrio del Angel, in which there is a chapel ; 
the communication between the town and suburb 
is by means of a stone bridge ; in the vicinity 
there are 3 small Indian villages, numerous cot- 
tages, and also gardens for the recreation of the 
people of the town, which is situated in 13 deg. 
35 min. north lat., and 90 deg. 26 min. west long.; 
distant 45 leagues from the metropolis. 

Acajutla, a port, or rather an open bay without 
shelter, 4 leagues distant from the town of Zon- 
zonate : which, notwithstanding the difficulties 



59 

and badness of the coast, is the anchoring place 
for ships coming from Peru with freights of wine, 
brandy, oil, raisins, olives, skins, and other pro- 
duce; in return for these they take away indigo, 
sarsaparilla, naphtha, tar, and other commodities 
of the country, in which this province carries on a 
very considerable commerce.^ The place was 
discovered by Pedro de Alvarado, in his voyage 
to Peru in 1534. 

Nuestra Seiiora de la Asuncion Aguachapa is 
one of the best villages of the province, carrying 
on a considerable trade; the population is 164 
Spaniards, 1383 Ladinos, and 2500 Indians : in 
the vicinity there are several manufactories of 
sugar, which is esteemed the best of the kingdom. 

Izalco was formerly so populous a place, that 
by an order of the king two curates were ap- 
pointed to it, each with his parochial church, the 
first called the Assumption, and the second our 
Lady de los Dolores ; at present the population 
is diminished, but even now it exceeds 6000 
souls. 

THE PROVINCE OF ST. SALVADOR. 

The fifth province is St. Salvador^ or Cuscatlan, 
which word, in the language of the country, signi- 
fies the " Land of Riches ;" it w^as conquered in 
1525 by Pedro de Alvarado, but the Caciques 
having revolted, w^ere again reduced to subjection 
in the following year by the same commander, 

* At the solicitation of Don Juan Bautista Irisarry, it is in 
contemplation to build a town near this port, to encourage the 
navigation of the South Sea, which is capable of producing so 
much advantage to the kingdom. By an act of the 5th Feb. 
1802, the superior government granted permission to carry the 
design into effect, and committed the execution of it to Irisarry. 



30 

on his return from Honduras ; and because the 
victory, that completed the final conquest, was 
achieved on the 6th of August, the day on which 
the festival of the transfiguration is celebrated by 
the church, the principal city was called St. Sal- 
vador. For the same reason the royal standard 
is on that day carried in procession, with all 
the pomp and accompaniments peculiar to many 
places of America ; the sword of Pedro de Alva- 
rado, that is carefully preserved in the Mexican 
village, is also carried in triumph. The celebra- 
tion of this ceremony is now transferred to Christ- 
mas, because the 61h of August is in the rainy 
season, when the principal persons of the city are 
absent. The province of St. Salvador is 50 leagues 
long, and 30 broad ; bounded on the west by Zon- 
zonate ; on the east and north by Comayagua ; 
north-west by Chiquimula, and on the south by 
the Pacific. It is more numerously peopled than 
any other province of the kingdom, as the number 
of inhabitants amounts to 137,270 Spaniards and 
people of colour, dwelling in 2 cities, 4 towns, 
121 villages, several valleys and estates. The 
Indians of this district are highly civilized, and 
all speak the Spanish language. The most valu- 
able trade of the whole country is carried on 
here, the principal branch of which is indigo, now 
become almost exclusively a production of this 
province ; for although in the others already de- 
scribed, there were several manufactories where it 
was prepared, at present there is but a small por« 
tion of it produced out of this district. The cli- 
mate is warm ; the soil yields all kinds of fruits, 
woods, gums, animals, and other commodities 
peculiar to the coast; its mines afford silver, 



31 

iron, lead^ ochre, gypsum, and bole armoniac; 
iish is abundantly supplied by the beautiful lake 
Texacuangos, another called Gilopango, and 
many rivers, among which is the Lempa, the 
largest of the kingdom, which taken at its lowest 
ebb exceeds 140 yards in breadth. Within the 
jurisdiction of the province is the Balsam coast, 
where the tree producing that precious liquor 
grows in great abundance: in quality it is the 
richest and best known, consequently most 
highly esteemed in all parts of the world. "^ 
This region is governed by an intendant, who re- 
sides in the district of San Salvador, and has a 
deputy resident in each of the other three, ?;?'2:. St. 
Michael, St. Vincent, and St. Anne ; there is also 
a deputy in each of the villages, Sacatecoluca and 
Chalatenango. 

DISTRICT OF ST. ANNE. 

In continuing the former course, that is, from 
west to east, the first district in this province is 
that of St. Anne ; it contains 6 curacies composed 
of 19 villages, which together include a popula- 
tion of 11,000 souls. The climate is milder than 
any other of the intendancy. Its chief commerce 
depends on sugar, some indigo, cattle, and sheep. 
The principal place is Great St. Anne's, so called 
to distinguish it from others of the same name, 

* This has always been so highly esteemed, that in 1562 Pope 
Pius the Fourth, and in 1571 Pius the Fifth, granted permission 
that the American balsam might be used in the consecration of 
the holy chrism. This valuable plant not only yields the white 
and black balsam, but a nut, from which the oil of balsam 
is extracted, and flowers, from which the spirit of balsam 
(aguardiente de baisamo) is drawn ; it also produces the sub- 
stance that the liquor called balsamillo is made of: they are all 
eminently serviceable in medicine. 



32 

as well as from its numerous population, which 
exceeds 6000 persons ; of these 338 are Spa- 
niards, 3417 Ladinos, and the remainder In- 
dians. The deputy-intendant resides here. It 
has a spacious church and a post-office, and is 
also the station of a regiment of militia of 567 
men. It is 45 leagues from the metropolis. 

Chalchuapa is a large well-built village, of 
good proportions, with a mixed population of 
Spaniards, Ladinos, and Indians, whose prin- 
cipal occupation is breeding hogs. 

St. Pedro Matapas is the best town in the dis- 
trict; the church is a very handsome edifice, 
highly adorned, and richly endowed. It is the 
chief place of a curacy, containing 4000 inha- 
bitants ; of whom 400 are Indians, who dwell in 
a part distinct from the others. It is governed by 
two Spanish alcaldes, nominated by the intendant. 
The commerce of this place is in indigo, sugar, 
maize, and various other productions. In the 
environs there are five iron founderies, which an- 
nually produce upwards of 1500 quintals. The 
lake Guija is about 2 leagues distant from the 
town ; the length of it is about 8 leagues, and 
breadth 3; affording an abundant supply of mo- 
harra, and other kinds offish: the river Lempa 
takes its source from this lake. 

DISTRICT OF ST. SALVADOR. 

The next and principal district of the province 
is St. Salvador, containing the capital and 50 
other towns and villages, divided into 11 cura- 
cies, and peopled with 68,660 souls. It has 
been already said, that all the productions of 
warm climates grow in this province; but its 



33 

trade is principally confined to the cultiva- 
tion of indigo, to which indeed the inhabitants 
devote their attention almost so exclusively as to 
neglect the growth of other articles of the first 
necessity. The city of St. Salvador, situated in 
13 deg. .'56 min. north lat. and 89 deg. 46 min. 
west long, is the capital ; it stands in a delightful 
valley, surrounded by mountains covered with 
wood, which terminate on the north-east in a vol- 
cano, that at different periods has caused great 
devastation by its eruptions. The city was trans- 
ferred to the site it now occupies, about 10 or 
12 years after it had been established on a spot 
called the Bermuda. It was founded in 1528, 
with the rank of a town, by order of George de 
Alvarado, then lieutenant of his brother Pedro, 
and was intended to keep the province of Cus- 
catlan in subjection. With this design he sent 
Diego de Alvarado, as alcalde mayor, and lieu- 
tenant of the captain-general, with several other 
officers of rank, from the city of Guatemala ; who 
having fixed upon a spot proper for building a 
town, laid the foundation of it on the 1st of 
April, 1528; when Diego de Alvarado, 2 al- 
caldes, a chief alguacil, and 6 regidors, nomi- 
nated by George de Alvarado, entered upon their 
respective offices. The town having increased 
considerably, the Emperor Charles V. by a de- 
cree, dated Sept. 27, 1545, granted to it the ho- 
nours and rank of a city. The church was dedi- 
cated to St. Salvador, and Father Pedro Ximenes 
was the first curate appointed to it ; at present it 
is served by 2 curate rectors. In addition to the 
church there are four oratories^ viz. Calvary, St. 
Estevan, St. Lucia, and the presentation of the 

D 



34 

Virgin : in the latter, an image of the Virgin Mary 
and Child is adored by tlie people, and supposed 
to be a powerful auxiliary to the city under every 
public calamity. There are 3 convents, the Do- 
minican, founded in 1551 ; the Franciscan, in 
1574; and La Merced, in 1623: belonging to 
these, and to the church, there are no less than 
60 religious fraternities. The intendant, his as- 
sessor, the royal treasurer, and public accountant, 
reside here. There are a post-office, custom- 
house, factory of tobacco, and consular deputa- 
tion, 2 battalions of regular militia, amounting to 
1534 men, embodied in the year 1781, and a town 
council. The inhabitants amount to 614 Spaniards, 
J0,060 Ladinos, and 585 Indians. The streets 
run in right lines, the houses are commodious, 
and the market well supplied. Distant 60 leagues 
E. S. E. from Guatemala. The principal towns 
of the district are Nejapa, Tejutla, St. Jacinto, 
Suchitoto, Cojutepeque, Texacuangos, Olocuilta, 
Tonacatepeque, Chalatenango, and Masagua, all 
of them heads of curacies, served by secular mi- 
nisters. 

ST. VINCENT 

Is the third district of the province, comprehend- 
ing 5 curacies, in which there are 20,310 inhabi- 
tants dwelling in the chief town; the town of 
Titiguapa, 12 villages, various dispersed farms 
and manufactories. The w^armth of the climate 
is rather more intense than in the preceding pro- 
vince. Its trade is limited chiefly to tobacco and 
dying materials. 

St. Vincente de Austria^ or Lorenzana, is the 
chief town of the district. Alvaro de Quinones 



35 

Osorio, president of the royal audiencia, settled it 
with a number of Spanish families in 1638; and 
in reward for this service, the king created him 
niarqnis of Lorenzana, which title, at his death, 
descended to his son, Diego de Quiiiones, who, 
by virtue of it, nominated a judge, for the due 
administration of justice in the town; but this 
appointment was annulled by a decree of the so- 
vereign, dated April 30, 1643, as the civil juris- 
diction properly belonged to the alcalde mayor 
of St. Salvador. The town of St. Vincent is 74 
leagues from Guatemala, between the cities of 
St. Salvador and St. Michael ; 14 leagues east of 
the former, 23 west of the latter, and in 13 deg. 
of north lat. ; situated on the skirts of a lofty 
mountain, the ascent to the summit of which is 
at least 2 leagues. At the base of this mountain 
there are several caverns, wherein are some warm 
springs, the waters of which are extremely fetid, 
and burst forth with an incredible noise. Two 
deep rivers nearly circumvallate the town, one on 
the north side, and the other on the south. The 
climate is warm and humid, but healthy. The 
principal church is sufficiently ample, being about 
70 yards in length : a short distance from it there 
is another, dedicated to our Lady del Pilar, which 
has three vaulted aisles of beautiful architecture 
and costly decoration, though now a little dilapi- 
dated ; it was built at the sole expense of a de- 
vout private gentleman, Don Francisco de Quin- 
tanilla. A little farther to the westward stands 
the oratory of Calvary, and there is a convent of 
Franciscans now building. It has a town council. 
The population is composed of 578 families, 41 

D 2 



36 

of which are Spaniards (218 individuals), and 477 
of Ladinos (3869 individuals). 

Sacatecoluca is the largest village in this dis- 
trict, and one of the finest in the kingdom ; it is 
situated at the base of the volcano of St. Vincent, 
directly opposite the town of St. Vincent, which 
is on the north side of it. The population is 



Families. 


Individuals. 


Spaniards 62 


209 


Ladinos 902 


3087 


Indians 299 


1592 



There are 2 Spanish, 2 Ladino, and 1 Indian al- 
caldes, for the administration of justice in their 
respective casts. 

Apastepeque, a large village, celebrated for a 
fair held on the 1st of November, for the sale of 
dying woods, &c. It is about a league from the 
town of St. Vincent, on the skirts of the same 
mountain, in a mild climate. It is the residence 
of a few Spanish families. At present it is the 
head of a curacy, formed in 1774, previous to 
which period it was annexed to the church of St. 
Vincent. 

Istepeque, a village celebrated for its tobacco, 
which is deemed the best of any produced in the 
kingdom. 

Tepetitan, a village adjoining to Istepeque; 
here there is a royal factory of tobacco. 

ST. MICHAEL 

Is the fourth and most easterly district of the 
province, bounded on the north by Comayagua, 
on the east by Cholulteca, on the west by St. 



37 

Vincent, and on the south by the Pacific. The 
climate is intensely hot and insalubrious, in 
consequence the population, at present, falls 
short of what it formerly was ; there are, how- 
ever, now 35,300 inhabitants in the city of St. 
Michael, the towns of St. Alexis, and Chapel- 
tique; 40 villages, and some dispersed farms, 
which altogether form ? curacies. The trade of 
this division consists generally of indigo and to- 
bacco. On the coast there are 2 ports, one called 
Jiquilisco, the entrance to which is 6 leagues 
eastward of the bar of the river Lempa : it is shut 
in by several islands, that shelter and defend the 
anchorage. Many persons suppose this to be the 
Bay of Fonseca, discovered in 1522 by Gil Gon- 
zales Davila. The other called Conchagua, a 
large bay, capable of receiving ships of any ton- 
nage, is situated on the boundary between this 
district and Cholulteca. The capital is the city 
of St. Michael, in 12 deg. 50 min. north lat., and 
88 deg. 40 min. west long. Luiz de Moscoso 
founded it in 1530, with the privileges of a town, 
by command of Pedro de Alvarado ; and in the 
year 1599, it was advanced to all the honours of 
a city. It has a good church, decorated with 
costly ornaments ; 2 convents, one of the order of 
St. Francis, and another of La Merced ; 1 ora- 
tory, and a town council. The population amounts 
to 5539 souls, viz. 239 Spaniards, and 5300 La- 
dinos. It is 12 leagues from the sea, 37 from St. 
Salvador, and 97 from Guatemala. 

St, Juan Chinameca, the head of a curacy, is a 
large place, chiefly inhabited by Ladinos, whose 
iiumber exceeds 2400. It enjoys a tine air and 
most agreeable temperature, the soil around it pro- 



38 

duces all the species of grain, fruit, and vege- 
tables peculiar to mild climates ; and with these 
commodities it supplies the city of St. Michael. 

The Estanzuelas, a small establishment of La- 
dinos and Mulattoes. It is only remarkable for 
a mineral spring, the waters of which will petrify 
the leaves of trees, or whatever falls into it. 



CHAP. III. 



Of the Jive Provinces situated on the Shores of 
the Atlantic Ocean. 

PROVINCE OF VERA PAZ. 

Pursuing a course from west to east, the first 
province to the northward is Vera Paz, called by 
the Indians Tezuhitlan: it was, at first, named 
by the Spaniards Tierra de Guerra, or the Land 
of War, from the warlike spirit of the natives, 
whom they were unable to subdue by arms, 
though the attempt was repeatedly made. Charles 
the Fifth bestowed on it the name of Vera Paz, 
because it embraced Christianity only from hear- 
ing the gospel preached. The religious fathers 
of St. Domingo tindertook this difficult conquest 
in the year 1537, and by 1552 had brought nearly 
all the province under the dominion of the church. 
They then entered the province of Acala, and 
pursued their pious labours ; but, in 1555, Fathers 
Domingo Vico, and Andres Lopez, fell martyrs 
to their holy zeal on the 29th of November. In 
1603, and following years, the Dominicans con- 
verted the provinceofManch6, contiguous to Vera 
Paz, and the inhabitants of 8 villages received the 
sacrament of baptism. In 1674, 1675, and IQIQ, 



69 

the fathers of the same order made several other 
attetnpts to convert another nation, called Choi, 
situated to the north-east of Vera Paz,with so much 
success^ that 2346 natives were baptized, and set- 
tled in 11 villages ; but the new disciples soon after 
withdrew to the mountains, where they remained 
until the year 1688, when the alcalde mayor of 
the province undertook an expedition to their 
retreats in search of them, brought back such 
as he met with, and afterward settled them in 
the valley of Urran, where their posterity have 
remained to this time. The nations of the Acalas, 
Mopans, Chols, and Lacandons, contiguous to 
Vera Paz, for the most part remain unsubdued. 
This district is entirely occupied by Indians, 
there being neither Spaniards nor Ladinos inha- 
biting it, except a very few in one or two villages, 
for the purpose of maintaining the sovereignty of 
the Spanish monarch over the territory, which is 
governed by an alcalde mayor. The spiritual 
concerns of the province were, at first, confided 
to the bishop of Guatemala; in the year 1538, 
they were placed under the direction of the 
Bishop of Chiapa ; in 1559, it was made a dio- 
cess, and bestowed on Pedro de Angulo, the first 
bishop, who had been one of the earliest adven- 
turers to preach the gospel in it, and who laboured 
most strenuously to instruct the natives. He was 
succeeded by Thomas de Cardenas, Pedro Peiiai^ 
and Antonio Hervias, all of the order of St. Do- 
mingo. Finally, Juan Fernandez Rosillo occupied 
the episcopal chair until 1607, when the diocess 
of Vera Paz was added to the mitre of Guatemala, 
The Dominicans have the charge of administering 
the sacraments. The whole of this division coii- 



40 

sists of I chief town, 13 villages, and 3 smaller 
ones. The whole population is 49,583. 

The province of Vera Paz is bounded on the 
north by Yucatan, on the south by Totonicapaii 
and Solola, on the west by Chiapa, and on the 
east by Chiquiniula and the Fresh Gulf. The 
land is very rugged and marshy^ from the con- 
tinued rains that fall throughout the year, and 
the almost innumerable rivers by which it is in- 
undated. Notwithstanding these disadvantages 
the air is salubrious, the climate in some parts is 
warm and dry, but in others it is humid. The 
forests produce trees of immense size, the trunks 
of some of them being not less than a hundred 
feet high, and of proportionate circumference.' 
Excellent timber of various kinds is to be met 
with in abundance; one species, the Guayacan, 
is considered incorruptible; the Drago, which 
yields the gum called dragon's blood ; amber, 
copal, mastic, almacigo, various kinds of balsam 
and aromatic plants ; the achiote, age, and many 
kinds of drugs in profusion. The mountains af- 
ford protection to great numbers of wild beasts 
and monstrous animals, as the danta, tigers, lions, 
and others peculiar to the country. The rivers 
are not less remarkable for the variety and mag- 
nitude of their inhabitants ; but the manati, or sea 
calf, surpasses all others in size. The birds court 
attention, from the almost endless diversity of 
feather* and song, with which they beautify and 

* Among the birds most, esteemed for their plumage in Vera 
Paz, the quezal holds the first place : it is found also in the 
province of Quezaltenango, whence it most probably obtained 
its name. It is peculiar to this kingdom, and the most beautiful 
of all the feathered tribe: the plumage is of an exquisite emerald 
green, the tail feathers are very long, and the natives make use 



41 

enliven the woods : of these a species of partridge, 
as large as a common fowl, is not the least esti- 
mable. Cotton yarn is the principal branch of 
commerce carried on here. 

The capital is styled, imposingly enough, the 
imperial city of St. Domingo Coban. It is un- 
doubtedly the largest settlement of Indians 
throughout the kingdom, as it contains upwards 
of 12,000 inhabitants. It is the residence of the 
chief alcalde, as it formerly was of the bishop of 
Vera Paz. Lat. 15 deg. 15 min. north long. 91 
deg. 16 min. west, and 50 leagues from Guate- 
mala. 

The other places of this province offer nothing 
that can claim attention ; the most populous are 
St. Paul, Rabinal, St. Matthew, Salama, and 
Santa Maria Cahabon. 

New Sevilla, now dismantled, was a town 
founded by some Spaniards who came from Yu- 
catan about the year 1544; it stood in a plain on 
the bank of the river Polochic, about 3 leagues 
from the Gulf, in the jurisdiction of Amatique.* 
It was disfranchised and abandoned in 1549, by 

of them as ornaments in their dances ; they were formerly sent 
to the kings of Mexico as a very valuable present. Great care 
was taken not to kill the birds, and they were released, after 
being deprived of their most beautifulspoils. The birds them- 
selves, as if they knew the high estimation their feathers are 
held in, build their nests with two openings, that by entering 
at one, and quitting them by the other, their plumes may not be 
deranged. 

* The alcaldia mayor of Amatique, which was united to the 
wardenship of the Gulf, extended 35 leagues from east to 
west, and 30 from north to south, was bounded on the east by 
the province of Honduras, on the south by those of Acasaguas- 
tlan and Vera Paz, on the west by lands belonging to the un- 
reclaimed Indians, and on the north by the sea; it had but one 
town and three villages, which being desolated by frequent pes- 
tilential epidemics, the alcaldia was abolished. 



an order from the king in 1547, in consequence 
of complaints made to his majesty on the part of 
the Indians of Vera Paz. 

DISTRICT OF PETEN. 

Between Verapaz, Chiapa, and Yucatan is the 
celebrated lake Itza, or Peten, of an oblong figure 
and about 26 leagues in circumference: in some 
parts there are 30 fathoms depth, and in others 
still more ; the waters are good, and produce ex- 
cellent fish. The Peten, or Great Island, is 
about two leagues from the shore, and was the 
chief place of the Itzaex Indians ; it is steep and 
lofty, and on the summit there is a plain nearly a 
quarter of a league in diameter, where the In- 
dians and their king Canek resided. In 1698 a 
garrison was established in this place, in conse- 
quence of an order, dated 23d of January. Four 
other smaller islands lie at short distances from 
the principal one ; all these five islands, the whole 
of the eastern side of the lake, and the neigh- 
bouring range of mountains, were formerly nu- 
merously peopled by diffeient Indian nations; 
but at present there remain no more than seven 
Tilla2:es in the wliole territory, with a diminished- 
population of only 2555 individuals. The tem- 
poral affairs of the district belong to the king- 
dom of Guatemala, and it is under the immediate 
government of the warden (castellano) of Peten ; 
but its spiritual concerns are under the bishop of 
Yucatan's guidance^ and intrusted to the care of 
five curates. This region was subdued by Mar- 
tin de Ursua y Arismendi, governor of Yucatan, 
who displayed the royal standard in Peten, and 
took possession of the island, in the king s name, 



43 

on the 13th of March, 1697. The soil of this 
canton is very fertile, always yielding two har- 
vests of maize in the year ; it also produces 
Chiapa pepper, Brasil wood, balsam, vanilla 
cotton, cocoa, pine apples, plums, and other 
fruits ; indigo, cochineal, and achiote are not the 
least valuable of its productions. The climate is 
temperate, the air healthy, the country agreeable, 
with great plenty of game, fine pasturage^ and 
many navigable rivers. 

The principal place is the fortress of Peten, ia 
16 deg. north lat. and 91 deg. 16 min. west long. 
165 leagues north-west of Guatemala ; the castle 
called Nuestra Seiiora de los Remedios and St. 
Paul, is the residence of the governor and the 
ecclesiastical vicar. Among the numerous idols 
preserved by the Itzaex Indians in this island, 
some bones that have been ascertained to be the 
remains of a horse, which, on account of its being 
diseased, Cortes left among them when he went 
on to Honduras, were held in great veneration by 
them. At the distance of 10 leagues from the 
lake, the ridge of the Alabaster mountains begins; 
on it green, brown, red, and other coloured jasper 
is found. On one of the mountains of this district 
there were found, in 1797, some small stones per- 
fectly spherical, and so hard that they might 
have been used as bullets for muskets and pistols, 
and as bails for cannon of different calibre from 
4 to 24-pounders. 

THE PROVINCE OF CHIQUIMULA 

Has for its boundaries Verapaz on the west, 
Comayaguaon the east, Escuintla, Sacatepeques, 
and Zonzonate on the south, and the sea on the 



44 

north. Within its territory there are 52,423 inha- 
bitants of all casts, 30 small towns and villages, 
and many detached farms and manufactories; the 
whole divided into 12 curacies, all served by the 
secular clergy, for the regulars have never had 
any cures in this province. The climate is very 
hot, except in one or two places, w^here it is 
either cold or temperate. The soil produces 
much maize, pulse of various sorts, rice, cocoa, 
melons, water-melons, cotton, and, above all, the 
sugar-cane, from wliich they make panelas, * 
one of their chief articles of commerce. There 
are excellent pastures in which are bred cattle, 
hogs, mules, and horses ; the two last are in 
great request among the carriers, who are very 
numerous in this country, for transporting their 
cargoes to the shipping, and from the Gulf to 
Guatemala: there are also some mines of gold, 
silver, talc, and other metals and minerals; at 
present those of Alotepeque are the most pro- 
ductive. Among the rivers of this region, those 
of the first rank are the Fre^h Galf (Golfo 
13ulce), the Great River (Rio Grande), noted for a 
sort of fish called bobo,| more delicate than any 
other in the kingdom, and caught only in this 

* In this country small loaves of unrefined sugar, of a brown 
colour, are called panelas, or raspings ; they are so extremely 
sweet that they very soon cloy the taste ; there is an immense 
consumption of them in all |Kirts of the country, being used 
liot only for domestic purposes, but also for making brandy and 
chica, a drink the Indians inebriate themselves with ; it is made 
in various ways, and from different materials. 

t This fish can only have been called bobo (fool) in irony, as 
it is particularly swift and cunning, and cannot be taken without 
great trouble and dexterity ; it is from two to three feet long, the 
skin thick, and the substance very rich and savoury: it must for 
these reasons be a distinct sj)ecies of fish from that which Ake- 
cfo describes under the name bobo. 



45 

river, and in that which flows by the city of Co- 
niayagua : the Great River has its source in the 
province of Chimaltenango ; in its lengthened 
course it receives many other streams, and after- 
ward takes the name of Motagua : it forms the 
boundary between this province and Honduras, 
and falls into the ocean eight leagues eastward of 
the mouth of the Gulf river: it is in contemplation 
to establish the introduction of the commerce of 
Castile by this river, which is navigable as far as 
Gaulan. The native language of the province is 
the Chorti. 

An opinion has been entertained that this re- 
gion was once inhabited by a race of people whose 
stature may with truth be called monstrous. A 
writer of respectability affirms, that at the end of 
the 17th century, some skeletons were found on 
the farm of Penol, the shin bones of which mea- 
sured from seven quarters to two varas in length 
(the vara is 33 inches English), and tlie others in 
due proportion; and that Don Thomas Delgado 
de Naxera attempted to remove some of them to 
Guatemala, but on taking hold of them they 
crumbled to pieces in his hands. 

Chiquimula is divided into two districts that 
were formerly two corregidorships ; one called 
Zacapa and Acasaguastlan, the other Chiqui- 
mula; the first includes 8 villages situated in 
the western part, and the other 22 villages and 
other places in the eastern division. The two 
corregidorships were formed into one, denomi- 
nated Chiquimula and Zacapo, about the year 
1760, orYdon after. 



m 



DISTRICT OF ACASAGUASTLAN. 

The following are Ihe most considerable places 
of this district, viz. St. Agustin de la Real Co- 
rona, or Acasagiiastlan, a large place once the 
capital of the corregidorship, and residence of 
the corregidors : it is now the head of a curacy, 
which had so extensive a domain, that two 
separate cures have been formed from it, viz. 
Sansaria and Tocoy. St. Pedro Zacapais a mo- 
derately populous place; among the inhabitants 
there are some Spanish families, many of Mulat- 
toes, but many more of Indians ; it is the head of 
a curacy, and chief of the district, where the cor- 
regidor's deputy resides. 

In this district is the Fresh Golf that was for- 
tified in I6475 under the direction of the presi- 
dent, Diego de Avendaiio, from which period it 
became much frequented, and for more than a 
century has been the only place on the Atlantic 
Ocean, where the ships of Spain, trading with this 
kingdom, have discharged their freights. It is a 
lake of fresh water, rendered navigable by the nu- 
merous rivers that fall into it^ and measures six 
leagues across in almost every direction; the dis- 
tance hence to the capital may be about 72 leagues: 
it communicates w ith the Atlantic by an arm that 
is called the Gulf River, at a point about 14 
leagues from the lake, in 15 deg. 25 min. north 
lat. and 90 deg. 16 min. west long. ; so that the 
mouth of the river is in the centre of the angle 
formed by the coast of Walis or Yucatan, running 
north and south from Cape Catoche, 120 leagues 
distant from the said centre ; and by the coast of 
Honduras extending east and w^est 68 leagues to 



47 

the Point of Castile : this indent is called the Bay 
of Honduras. On the shore of the lake there is 
a fort called the Castle of St. Philip.^ 

Not far distant from the mouth of the Gulf 
River there is a bay called the Port of St. Tho- 
mas de Castilla, from having been discovered on 
the day of St. Thomas Aquinias, 7th of March, 
1604, when Don Alonzo Criado de Castillo 
was president. The motive for preferring the 
Port of St. Thomas to the Port of Caldera at 
Point Castile, and Port Caballos, for unloading 
ships that arrive on the coast of Honduras, were 
the repeated attacks and captures made by pi- 
rates at the two latter places. But it was found 
necessary, a short time afterward, to abandon 
the Port of St. Thomas, because, being situated 
on a spot where the soil was extremely barren, 
the cattle which transported the produce of the 
country to the ships, frequently perished for want 
of provender. It was, therefore, determined to 
establish the entry and export of the merchandise 
of both kingdoms in the Fresh Gulf. 

DISTRICT OF CHIQUIMULA. 

The principal places of the second district are 
the follovi'ing, viz. Chiquimula de la Sierra, the 
capital of the province and residence of the cor- 
regidor, which contains more than 2000 Indians, 
besides 296 Spaniards, and 589 Ladinos. It is 50 
leagues from Guatemala in 14 deg. 20 min. north 
lat., and 90 deg. 16 min, west long. 

* This garrison was established in the year 1655, and approved 
of by his majesty's edict in November, 1658 ; on the 26th of Fe- 
bruary, 1687, another edict was issued, commanding it to be 
maintained in an effective state of defence. 



48 

St. Jago Esquipnlas is the best town of the dis- 
trict, though in a humid and unhealthy climate: 
it is seated on a plain surrounded by hills ; the 
houses are good, and the place is singular from 
having an inn in it, which is not the case at any 
other : there is a mixed population of Spaniards, 
Ladinos, and Indians. Lat. 14 deg. north, and 
long. 90 deg. 16 min. west. 

Close to the town is the celebrated sanctuary 
of our Lord of Esquipulas, one of the best ar- 
ranged, most capacious, and handsomest churches 
of the kingdom : the interior is divided into three 
aisles ; on the outside the four angles are adorned 
by as many handsome lofty towers ; at the extre- 
mity of the principal aisle there is a beautiful re- 
cess, wherein a crucifix is placed. This image 
was carved at Guatemala, in 1595, by Quirio Ca- 
taiio, an eminent artist, and deposited in the mo- 
ther-church of Esquipulas, where it soon obtained 
such renown by the miracles it vouchsafed to 
operate in behalf of true believers, who duly paid 
their adorations to it, as to become famous 
throughout the whole country, and pious pilgrims 
came in multitudes to visit this holy image, not 
from the provinces of Guatemala only, but even 
from New Spain, whither its reputation had 
extended. The 15th of January is the festival 
of this wonder-w'orking effigy, and at that period 
a concourse of 80,000 persons has been known 
to assemble in the town, some attracted by de- 
votion to assist at the solemnity, and others 
by the more worldly inducement of attending 
the great fair, which is held about the same 
time. As the old parish church could not, by 
any means, accommodate so great an influx of 



49 

visitors, Pedro Pardo de Figueroa, archbishop 
of Guatemala, relieved the inconvenience by 
erecting the existing sumptuous edifice, to which 
the ashes of this venerable prelate were transferred 
in 1758, with extraordinary solemnity* 

THE PROVINCE OF HONDURAS OR COMAYAGUA 

Is the third in succession, following a course 
from west to east by the sea-coast ; it lies east 
and west along the shores of the Atlantic, having 
the province of Chiquimula on the w^est, St. Sal- 
vador on the south, Nicaragua on the south- 
east and east, and the bay of Honduras on the 
north. The bay was thus named by the Spa- 
niards, who first came to subjugate the country, 
because when they wished to land, they were un- 
able to find anchorage along the coast on account 
of the great depth (hondura) of water. They also 
called it Hibueras or Calabazas, from the great 
number of pumpkins they found on shore. The 
land in general is uneven, but fertile in the ex- 
treme, producing maize, pulse, cocoa, sugar, and 
cotton; it abounds in cattle, and possesses more 
mines of gold and silver than all the kingdom be- 
sides. The climate is hot and humid, in conse- 
quence very unhealthy, which is the cause of its 
being so thinly peopted ; for many of the towns it 
formerly could boast of, have been abandoned, 
and those which remain are very much reduced 
in population. 

The rivers and streams that water this dis- \ 
trict are very numerous ; of the largest may be ') 
mentioned the Camalecon, that descends from \ 
the district of St. Pedro Sula, and falls into the i 
sea about 24 leagues from the Gulf River. Pi- 



50 

ragiias (large canoes) may navigate it for more 
than 50 leagues. The Ulna falls into the Atlan- 
tic about 31 leagues from the Gulf River, and is 
navigable ; it has its rise several leagues above 
the city of Comayagua. The Lean, or Leones, 
disembogues 46 leagues from the Gulf; it rises 
in the mountains of Mulia and Lean, and is not 
navigable above 30 leagues; continuing eastward 
along the coast, at the distance of 84 leagues 
from the Gulf, the Aguan has its astuary ; it rises 
in the mountains of Sulaco, and runs a course 
from west to east of 70 leagues ; it is navigable 
for piraguas about 40 leagues from its mouth. 
The river Limones descends from the mountains 
of Olancho el Viejo, and discharges itself 90 
leagues from the Gulf River; it is navigable for 
piraguas. Pursuing the same direction about 12 
leagues from the Limones, is the bar of the river 
Tinto, which is very deep, and rises in the dis- 
trict of Tegucigalpa. Half a league eastward of 
the latter is the Payas, navigable only for canoes. 
The Platanos is the last in this direction; it is a 
large river, falling into the Atlantic about 106 
leagues distant from the Gulf River. There 
are some others that take a different conrse, and 
discharge themselves into the Pacific Ocean : the 
Nacaome and the Choluteca fall into the Bay of 
Conchagua. 

On the coast of this province there are 6 dif- 
ferent ports : the first is Omoa, a bay with good 
anchorage, forming a clear, safe, and welUshel- 
tered harbour, sufficiently capacious to moor 20 
or 25 vessels. It is 17 leagues east of the Fresh 
Gulf, in 15 deg. 23 min. north lat. and 88 deg. 
56 min. west long. : the second, Puerto Caballos, 



51 

three leagues eastward of the precediag, is formed 
by two bays ; but as its entrance has little more 
than two feet water, is not much frequented. 
The third is Puerto de Sal, 37 leagues from 
the Gulf, very small, and without good anchor- 
age, in 15 deg. 25 min. north lat. The fourth, 
Triunfo de la Criiz, is a large bay, trending to 
the south-east, where vessels of any size may an- 
chor under shelter of three small islands called 
the Friars. The fifth is the Port of Truxillo, 
contiguous to the city of the same name, which is 
68 leagues from the Fresh Gulf; the entrance 
to it is open to the north-north-east ; the points 
forming it, Castilla on the north-east, and Que- 
mara south-west, are 6 leagues from each other ; 
in the middle of the bay lies the Isla Blanca. 
The sixth is Port Cartago, 132 leagues from the 
Gulf River, in the territories of the uncivilized 
Indians. The whole of this coast was conquered 
by Christoval de Olid, acting under a commission 
from Cortes, in 1523; but the interior was sub- 
dued by Pedro de Alvarado in 1530, and follow- 
ing years. The province is governed by the In- 
tendant of Comayagua, who has deputies at Te- 
gucigalpa, Gracias a Dios, St. Pedro Sula, Ten- 
coa, Yoro, Olanchito, and Olancho el Viejo. The 
spiritual government belongs to the bishop of 
Honduras. It is divided into two districts, viz, 
Comayagua, which comprehends all the western 
part, and Tegucigalpa, extending over all the 
eastern : the first was formerly a government, and 
the second the jurisdiction of a chief alcalde; but 
at present they form the intend ancy of Comaya- 
gua, containing 137 towns, villages, &c. and 
93,501 inhabitants. 

e2 



o2 

THE DISTRICT OF COMAYAGUA 
Lies between the provinces of Chiquimiila and 
Tegucigalpa ; it has 04 villages, &c. and 59,265 
inhabitants. The whole is subdivided into 25 
curacies. 

Truxillo, formerly the capital of the province 
and residence of the bishop^, was founded in 
1524, by Francisco Las Casas, whom Cortes 
sent against Christoval de Olid, who had revolt- 
ed: it received its name from the circumstance of 
the principal persons at its foundation being na- 
tives of the city of the same appellation in Estre- 
madura. In 1539 the church was declared a ca- 
thedral by Pope Paul the Third. In 1589 the 
convent of Franciscans was founded ; there was 
also a hospital called the Conception, and a 
council ; it had a numerous European popula- 
tion, which, combined with the fine climate, salu- 
brity of the waters, and other advantages, ren- 
dered it a convenient and desirable residence. 
It was situated close to the port of the same 
name, where Cortes embarked on his return to 
Mexico; the harbour is commodious, and was 
once defended by a fort mounting 17 guns, and 
some small pieces, but notwithstanding this pro- 
tection, it was attacked, the town taken, pillaged, 
and destroyed by the Dutch in 1643 ; it remained 
in a ruined state until 1789, when the king of 
Spain ordered it to be restored, and the harbour 
to be fortified. It is now protected by three forts 
in a regular state of defence : it was attacked, in 
April, 1797, by two English ships of war and a 
brig; but they were repulsed after losing 11 men 
killed and 9 prisoners. The population at pre- 
sent is not very numerous, being only from 80 to 



100 Spaniards, and about 300 negroes. It is 
governed by a military commandant, invested 
with the usual jurisdiction ; he has under his 
orders a detachment of 200 veteran troops. The 
town stands on an elevation of about <30 yards 
above the level of the sea, between the rivers 
Negro and Christales, distant 95 leagues from 
Comayagua, and 239 from Guatemala. Lat. 15 
deg. 20 min. north, and 86 deg. 6 min. west long. 

Gracias a Dios, a city founded by Juan de 
Chaves in the year 1536, is situated in a pleasant 
Talley at the base of a lofty mountain, from the 
summit of which descends a rivulet that flows 
close by and supplies it with water. In the early 
periods of this place it was one of the most 
flourishing of the kingdom^ and important as 
being the seat of the royal audiencia of the 
borders of Guatemala and Nicaragua in 1544. 
It has one convent of La Merced, which is poor, 
and not numerous, but one of the most ancient 
belonging to that order in the kingdom. At this 
time the population is very small, and the city 
itself in a state of great decay. Its distance from 
Comayagua is 38 leagues, and from Guatemala^ 
166. Lat. 14 deg. north, and 89 deg. 16 min. 
west long. 

New Valladolid or Comayagua, the capital of 
the province of Honduras, is seated in a beautiful 
plain contiguous to a large river, from which it 
draws an abundant supply of excellent fish. In 
1540 Alonzo de Caceres founded this place by 
order of Francisco Montejo, the governor of 
Honduras. In 1544 the king issued an order for 
establishing here the royal audiencia of the bor- 
ders ; but it was not carried into effect on ac- 



54 

count of the town's being then in its infancy ; 
and of its great distance from Guatemala the 
chief city, and the other provinces. A decree of 
December 20, 1557, granted to it the title and 
honours of a city ; the corporation was composed 
at first of 1 alcalde and 3 regidors, appointed 
by the royal audiencia ; but in 1558, the royal 
chancery ordered that these officers should be 
elected annually. The governor of Comayagua 
formerly had his residence here, as at present have 
the intendant of the province, and his assessor, 
the treasurer, and the receiver-general of the 
king's revenues : it is the head quarters of a bat- 
talion of militia of 767 men. The church is 
dedicated to the immaculate conception of the 
Virgin, and has been a cathedral since the year 
1561, when the sovereign pontiff and the king, 
sanctioned the translation of the episcopal chair 
of Honduras from Truxillo to this place. The 
chapter is composed of a dean, an archdeacon, 
chanter, rector, treasurer, penitentiary, and doctor 
of canon law. There are, a tridentine college, 
the grammatical professorship, in which was en- 
dowed, by royal decree, in 1602 ; 3 convents, viz. 
St. Francis, La Merced, and Juan de Dios, the 
latter maintaining an hospital ; 2 parishes, that 
of the cathedral for Spaniards, and La Caridad 
for Indians. The town is situated in 13 deg. 50 
min. north lat. and 88 deg, 46 min. west long. 
Distant from Guatemala 144 leagues. 

St. Gil de Buena Vista was the first settlement 
made by the Spaniards on the coast of Honduras ; 
Gil Gonzales Davila formed it on his first arrival 
in 1523, even before Cbristoval de Olid took 
possession of the country for the catholic king: 



55 



it was situated near Cape Three Points, to the 
eastward of the Gulfof Dulce. 

El Triiinfo de la Cruz, (the Triumph of the 
Cross) was a town founded by Christoval de Olid, 
and received its name from his having landed at 
this spot on the day of the Invention of the Cross, 
in the year 1523. Of these two places, nothing 
remains at the present day but the name, nor of 
the town of St. Juan, settled by Pedro de Alva- 
rado, near Puerto Caballos in 1536. 

Naco, a pleasant and spacious valley surround- 
ed by hills, lying between St. Pedro Zula and 
Puerto Caballos, deserves mention as being the 
place where Francisco de las Casas, and Gil Gon- 
zales Davila ordered Christoval de Olid to be 
beheaded. 

St. Pedro Zula, and the two following places, 
were formerly called cities, and in fact had cor- 
porations ; but in the present day they are en- 
tirely decayed. St. Pedro was founded by Al- 
varado in 1530. 

St. George Olanchito still contains a small po- 
pulation, from which three militia companies of 
110 men each are embodied : it was founded in 
1530 by Diego de Alvarado, acting under the 
orders of his brother Pedro. 

Sonaguera is now only a Ladino village, 20 
leagues from Truxiilo. 

Yoro is a considerable town, maintaining four 
companies of militia of 100 men each : this and 
the three preceding places are heads of curacies. 

Tencoa is a village that deserves mention, from 
a peculiar species of pepper cultivated in its vi- 
cinity. 

The valley of Olancho is memorable for the im- 



56 

inense riches that have been collected from the 
River Guayape, that flows through it; and even 
now the purest gold produced in the kingdom is 
to be found in its sands. 

The valley of Morolica is celebrated for pro- 
ducing the best cheese of the country. 

The valley of Copan is as remarkable at pre- 
sent for its excellent tobacco, as it formerly was 
for an opulent city, the court of the Cazique Co- 
pan-Calel, the conquest of which cost Hernando 
de Chaves a great deal of trouble and fatigue. 
Francisco de Fuentes, who wrote the chronicles 
of this kingdom, assures us that in his time, that 
is, in the year 1700, the Great Circus of Copan, 
still remained entire. This was a circular space, 
surrounded by stone pyramids about 6 yards 
high, and very well constructed ; at the bases of 
these pyramids were figures, both male and female, 
of very excellent sculpture, which then retained 
the colours they had been enamelled with ; and, 
what was not less remarkable, the whole of them 
w^ere habited in the Castilian costume. In the 
middle of this area, elevated above a flight of 
steps, was the place of sacrifice. The same au- 
thor relates that, at a short distance from the Cir- 
cus, there was]a portal constructed of stone, o n 
the columns of which were the figures of men, 
likewise represented in Spanish habits, with hose, 
ruff round the neck, sword, cap, and short cloak. 
On entering the gateway there are two fine stone 
pyramids, moderately large and lofty, from which 
is suspended a hammock that contains two hu- 
man figures, one of each sex, clothed in the In- 
dian style. Astonishment is forcibly excited oii 
viewing this structure, because, large as it is, there 



57 

is no appearance of the component parts being 
joined together; and, althongh entirely of stone, 
and of an enormous weight, it may be put in mo- 
tion by the slightest impulse of the hand. Not 
far from this hammock is the cave of Tibulca; 
this appears like a temple of great size, hollowed 
out of the base of a hill, and adorned with columns 
having bases, pedestals, capitals and crowns, all 
accurately adjusted according to architectural 
principles; at the sides are numerous windows 
faced with stone exquisitely wrought. All these 
circumstances lead to a belief that there must 
have been some intercourse between the inhabi- 
tants of the old and the new world at very remote 
periods. 

St. Fernando de Omoa is a fort built on the 
harbour of the same name, in consequence of a 
royal decree dated August 30, 1740, which or- 
dered that a fortification should be constructed 
on the coast of Honduras, to serve as a bulwark 
to the province of Comayagua, and afford a safe 
anchorage to the Guarda Costas employed in 
the protection of this part of the kingdom. The 
works were commenced in 1752, by the Lieutenant 
General Don Jose Vasquez Prego, president of 
the audiencia, and were not finished until 1775. 
In 1780 the place was taken by the English ; but 
they were forced to abandon it soon after on ac- 
count of its unhealthiness. At a short distance 
from the fort there is a village inhabited by ne- 
groes ; who are the only persons able to endure 
the climate. It is 17 leagues from St. Pedro Zula, 
62 from Comayagua, and 101 from Guatemala. 

Roatan is an island oflT the coast of Honduras, 
18 leagues north-east of the harbour of Truxillo ; 



58 

the east point of it lies in 16deg. north lat. and 
87 deg. 6 min, west long. It extends from 45 to 
50 miles in length, and from 6 to 10 in breadth, 
following the range of the coast; being surround- 
ed by reefs and rocks, the approach to it is ren- 
dered dangerous, except by a few openings but 
little known. The principal harbour affords good 
anchorage, but rather open to south-west winds : 
there are two entrances into it, the principal one 
is considerably narrowed by the shoals about it; 
the other, called Lacanda, is but little known, 
being very difficult of access from the tortuous 
course that must be run to get in : however, vessels 
of large size may enter. The climate is warm 
and dry, consequently healthy; the surface is 
broken and mountainous, scantily supplied with 
w^ater, but plentifully stored with game, and the 
shores afford fish in great abundance, particularly 
of the crustaceous kind. In the year 1642 it 
was taken by the English, who kept it until 1650, 
when Francisco de Villalva y Toledo compelled 
them to abandon the possession : he conveyed 
the Indians who inhabited it to a settlement in 
the alcaldia of Amatique, and left the island un- 
inhabited. In this state it remained until 1742, 
when the English again occupied and fortified it, 
but were dislodged about the year 1780 by the 
president of Guatemala; in 1796 they resumed 
possession, and left a force of 2000 negroes to 
defend it ; but it was finally reconquered from 
them on the 18th of May, 1797, by Don Jose 
Rossi y Rubi, who had been commissioned for 
that service by the captain general. 



59 

DISTRICT OF TEGUCIGALPA. 

Iq this district there are two towns, Teguci- 
galpa, and Xeres de la Choluteca, 6 small towns 
of Ladinos, 17 Indian villages, 13 mines, and 
several farms, together forming 10 cnracies, con- 
taining in the whole 34,236 inhabitants of all 
casts. This canton furnishes productions of all 
kinds, timber of various sorts, a variety of ani- 
mals, and, above all, gold and silver, in which it 
is the richest part of the kingdom. It lies between 
the provinces of Comayagna on the west, Nica- 
ragua on the east and south, and the Xicaque 
Indians on the north. The chief town is Teguci- 
galpa, the most populous and flourishing place in 
the province of Comayagua : it is the residence of 
the deputy intendant ; has a royal treasury subor- 
dinate to that of Comayagua, a deputy minister 
of the royal revenues, and an assay master. There 
is a corporation composed of 2 alcaldes, a standard 
bearer, and 6 regidors ; a battalion of provincial 
militia, of 767 men, and a squadron of cavalry of 
168 men are stationed here. The principal public 
buildings are a spacious church, a Franciscan 
convent built in 1574, another of the order of La 
Merced, and two oratories, called Calvario and 
Dolores. The climate is healthy, though rather 
hot. The distance to Comayagua is 25, and to 
Guatemala 148 leagues. 

Xeres de la Frontera in the valley of Choluteca, 
is the most southerly and the hottest place of all 
the district ; it holds the rank of a town, and 
has a corporation (the members of which are 
Spaniards) established by permission of the au- 
diencia. There is a small convent of La Merced 



60 

here. The town lies in 12 deg. 50 min. north lat. 
and 87 deg. 46 min. west long. 

El Corpus was the richest mine in the kingdom: 
it produced gold in so great a quantity as to ex- 
cite, at first, a suspicion as to the reality of the 
metal, and a treasury was established on the spot, 
for the sole purpose of receiving the king's fifths ; 
it however terminated unsuccessfully : the place 
is within the jurisdiction of Choluteca. 

THE PROVINCE OF NICARAGUA. 

This was the first province of the kingdom 
subdued by the Spaniards; it was discovered 
in 1522 by Gil Gonzales Davila, and settled by 
Pedro de Areas and Francisco Fernandez de 
Cordova, two officers who accompanied Davila. 
On the north it is bounded by the provinces of 
Honduras, and Tologalapa, on the east by the 
Atlantic, on the south by the government of Costa 
Rica and the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by 
the district of Tegucigalapa. From west to east 
it extends 85 leagues, and from north to south 
about 75. The intendancy of Nicaragua includes 
5 districts ; of these Leon, which is the first, was 
formerly considered a government ; the others, 
Realejo, Subtiava, Matagalpa, and Nicoya, were 
corregidorships ; but now all these different can- 
tons are united under the jurisdiction of the in- 
tendant of the province, who has six deputies, one 
resident at the city of Segovia, one in the town of 
Realejo, and one in each of the villages of Sub- 
tiava, Matagalpa, Mazaya and Nicoya : the spi- 
ritual government appertains to the diocess of 
Leon. As the temperature of this province is very 
hot, it does not produce wheat, but yields all the 



61 

various articles peculiar to the climate most 
bountifully : excellent grapes, and other delicious 
fruits, cocoa, indigo, and cotton, besides various 
medicinal drugs, and particularly the gum called 
carafia. The forests afford large quantities of 
valuable timber of several species, and also vari- 
ous kinds of monkeys and other quadrupeds, as 
well as many different sorts of rare birds : there 
are several farms, on which are bred immense 
numbers of cattle, that supply not only the con- 
sumption of the province, but of the city of Gua- 
temala also; the soil, however, is not favourable 
for breeding sheep: the rivers, the coasts, and 
creeks, both on the Atlantic and Pacific, furnish 
an inexhaustible supply offish of all kinds. 

Some of the rivers of this province discharge 
their waters into the Atlantic, and some into the 
Pacific. Of the latter, the most important are the 
Creek del Viejo, the river of Nicaragua, the Al- 
varado, and the Nicoya, which separates the pro- 
vince from Costa Rica. Of the former, the great 
river Pantasma, that rises in the jurisdictions 
of Segovia and Matagalpa, being joined by se- 
veral others, becomes a stream of considerable 
magnitude, and falls into the sea near the false 
Cape Gracias k Dios, where it forms a small har- 
bour. The Mosquito, the Gold, the Iron River, 
and the river St. John, that flows out of the lake 
of Granada, and, after a course of about 40 
leagues, discharges itself into the sea : near its 
embouchure it forms three branches, one of which 
retains the name of St. John ; the second is called 
Taure, and the third Colorado. On the Atlantic 
there is one harbour, which is the bay formed by 
the estuary of the St. John; but, on the Pacific, 



6? 

there are five within the limits of the province : 
the first of these is the harbour of Realijo, or 
Cardon, the best and most convenient of any in 
the kingdom : it is a large bay, that may be en- 
tered by ships of every tonnage, and is capacious 
enough for a thousand vessels to ride in perfect 
safety. Ships may proceed by different channels 
and creeks as far as the town of Realijo, 9 or 10 
leagues distant from the sea, and may there be 
careened and undergo repairs. The second is the 
harbour of Coziguina, also spacious, and with 
water enough for vessels of all classes. The third 
is Port St. John, not practicable for large ships ; 
but very safe for such as can enter it. The fourth 
is called Brito, and about 6 leagues farther on is 
the fifth, called Escalante. 

THE PROVINCES OF TAGUZGALPA AND 
TOLOGALPA. 

Between the provinces of Nicaragua and Co- 
mayagua, lie those of Tagnzgalpa and Tologalpa, 
inhabited by unconverted Indians of various na- 
tions, differing in language, manners, and customs, 
and in a state of warfare with each other. They 
are but obscurely known by the name of Xica- 
ques, Moscos, and Sambos. The English, who 
had a small fort and a few huts on the banks of 
the river Tinto, used to trade with these Indians, 
but have been obliged to abandon the post. These 
two provinces extend along the coast on the At- 
lantic, from the river Aguan to that of St. Juan, 
which space takes in the 3 prominent points, 
Capes Camaron, Gracios a Dios, and Punta 
Gorda. The first of these is 95 leagues distant 
from the gulf of Dulce, between the rivers Tinto 



63 

and Limones ; the last is situated between the 
rivers de Fierro and St. Juan ; and between these 
two lies the second, in 15 deg. 40 min. north lat. 
and 82 deg\ 16 min. west long. 130 leagues from 
the gulf of Dulce ; in which space the coast runs 
from west to east, but from the latter cape, down 
to the river St. Juan, it takes a direction from 
north to south. Inland these provinces are bound- 
ed by those of Coraayagua, Tegucigalpa, and 
Matagalpa. The climate is excessively hot, the 
soil is watered by upwards of 100 small streams 
and a few large rivers. In Taguzgalpa there is a 
very picturesque lake. 

THE DISTRICT OF LEON 

Is the principal one of the intendancy, and con- 
tains the cities of Leon, Granada, and New Se- 
govia ; the towns of Nicaragua/Esteli, Acoyapa, 
and Villa Nueva ; 28 villages, and many farms. 
These places are formed into 23 curacies, and 
the aggregate population amounts to 68,930 inha- 
bitants. The district is subdivided into four ju- 
risdictions ; that of the city of Leon extends over 
the city, the town of Navia, the valley of St. 
Pedro Metapa, and 5 villages ; that of Granada 
comprises the city, the town of Acoyapa, and 17 
villages : Segovia has the city, the town of Esteli, 
and 5 villages ; and, lastly, that of Nicaragua, 
which only extends to the town and village of the 
same name. 

The city of Leon, the capital of the intendancy 

and bishoprick of Nicaragua, is situated in 12 deg. 

20 min. north lat. and 86 deg. 16 min. west long. 

'8 leagues distant from the lake of Managua, 4 

from the shore of the Pacific, and 183 from Gua-. 



temala. This city was originally founded on the 
spot now called Old Leon, by Francisco Fer- 
nandez de Cordova, in 1523; bnt, some years 
afterward, it was rebuilt on its present site. The 
church was constituted a cathedral by Pope Paul 
the Third, and Pedro de Zuniga, of the order of 
St. Francis, one of those who first preached 
Christianity to the natives, was appointed the first 
bishop ; but, dying before his consecration, he was 
succeeded by Diego Alvarez Osorio, chanter of 
the cathedral of Darien, who took possession of 
the bishoprick of Nicaragua, and built the church 
in the city of Leon in 1532. This edifice is de- 
dicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, but had 
no prebends, on account of its insufficient re- 
venues, until 1624, when the king appointed the 
first dean and archdeacon; curates, and a chief 
sacristan were elected by the bishop, and the 
celebration of divine service immediately com- 
menced. In 1681, a rector was appointed; and, 
in 1715, 2 canons. Besides the prebendaries, 
there is a competent number of chaplains and 
other ministers for the church discipline. There 
are 3 convents; a Franciscan, which is head of 
the province of St. George, was founded by the 
bishop Zuniga in 1579; one of La Merced, and 
another of St. Juan de Dios, which has under its 
care the hospital of St. Catherine. There was 
also a convent of Dominicans here, as well as an- 
other in the city of Granada, but they were both 
abolished in 1554. The Tridentine college of St. 
Ramon, established in the year 1675, by Andres 
de las Navas, is not one of the least estimable or- 
naments of this city. At its first commencement 
there were only 2 professorships, grammar and 



morality, the latter endowed by the king; but, in 
the present day, there are chairs for sacred his- 
tory, scholastic theology, philosophy^ medicine, 
and civil and Canon law.* There is but one 
parish in the city, but this has three supplemen- 
tary ones, with a church in each of the 3 wards 
or divisions. The bishop and the intendant of 
the province reside here; the royal treasury of 
the intendancy is also established here. The city 
of Leon has a corporation, a post-office, custom- 
house, factory of tobacco, a consular deputation, 
a battalion of militia of 767 men, and a numerous 
population, comprising 1061 Spaniards, 626 Mes- 
tizos, 5740 Ladinos, and 144 Indians, total, 7571 
individuals* 

Granada, a handsome and agreeable city, on 
the margin of the great lake of Nicaragua, which, 
from this circumstance, is most commonly called 
the Lake of Granada. Its antiquity is nearly the 
same as that of Leon, having been founded by 
Francisco Fernandez de Cordova in 1523. Its 
figure is that of a parallelogram, fortified by 2 
natural dykes, which serve as fosses. The situa- 
tion of this city, close to the lake, by which there 
is a direct communication with the Atlantic, and 
its contiguity to the Pacific Ocean, affords the 
most advantageous facilities for carrying on an 
extensive commerce. The population consists of 
863 European Spaniards and Creoles, 910 Mes- 
tizos, 4765 Ladinos, and 1695 Indians, vi^ho in- 
habit a little village adjoining. Like Leon it has 
its corporation. The public buildings are, a 
sumptuous parochial church, a Franciscan con- 

* By a decree, dated Aug. 18, 1806, the king of Spain 
granted to this college the power of conferring junior degrees, 

F 



66 

vent, one of the most ancient in the kingdom, an- 
other of La Merced, one of St. Juan de Dios, 
with a hospital attached to it; and a church, 
dedicated to our Lady of Guadalupe, to which is 
annexed a convent. The principal church is no- 
ticed as containing the remains of 4 bishops of 
Leon, and of Bernardino de Obregon y Obando, 
founder of the congregation of St. Philip Neri of 
Guatemala. Granada stands in 11 deg. 30 min. 
north lat., 86 deg. 21 min. west long., 30 leagues 
south-west from Leon, and 216 east-south-east 
from Guatemala. 

The lake of Nicaragua is the largest of this 
kingdom, and may rank among the most exten- 
sive of the world ; being more than 180 miles long" 
from west to east, and nearly 100 broad from 
north to south, having almost every where a 
depth of 10 fathoms, with a muddy bottom, ex- 
cept along the shore, where there is clean sand. 
The city is supplied with water from the lake, 
which also furnishes an inexhaustible abundance 
of fine fish. It is rendered extremely picturesque, 
by the numerous small islands with which the sur- 
face is studded : these are all uncultivated, except 
Ometep, which is inhabited. On this there is a 
lofty mountain of a conical shape, that is an 
active volcano, and frequently emits both flames 
and smoke. The lake itself is liable to tempes- 
tuous agitations, when the waves rise with vio- 
lence, as they do in the open sea, under the im- 
petus of a heavy gale. Although a great number 
of rivers fall into this basin, and the River St. 
Juan is the only visible outlet, yet it is remarked 
as an extraordinary phenomenon, that there is no 
indication at any time of increase or decrease of 



67 

the waters. On the north, the district of Mata- 
galpa, and many large farms for breeding cattle, 
border the lake ; on the south are the city of 
Granada, and the town of Nicaragua ; on the east 
the River St. Juan communicates with the At- 
lantic ; and on the west is the lake of Managua, 
or Leon, which extends upwards of 50 miles in 
length, by nearly 30 in breadth, and is connected 
by a canal with the Nicaragua. 

The castle of the River St. Juan is built on the 
banks of that river, 12 leagues below the lake, 
and 28 from the sea. There was a small fort, an- 
ciently called St. Carlos, that was captured by 
the English in 1665; but the presidents of Gua- 
temala, Don Martin Carlos de Mencos, and Don 
Sebastian Alvares Alphonso Rosico de Caldas, 
soon after succeeded in recovering it from the as- 
sailants. In consequence of this event, a royal 
decree was issued, commanding that the entrance 
of the river should be fortified. In obedience to 
which, Don Fernando de Escobeda, the president, 
proceeded to examine the port and river, and or- 
dered the present fortress to be constructed, 
which is a parallelogram built upon a small emi- 
nence of solid rock, with four bastions, a fosse, 
&c. It usually has a garrison of 100 soldiers. 

New Segovia, a city founded by Pedrarias Da- 
vila, one of the first governors of Nicaragua. It 
has a corporation, consisting of 2 alcaldes, a chief 
alguacil, and 3 regidors. A battalion of militia^ 
of 767 men, is stationed here ; and it is the resi- 
dence of the deputy-intendant of Leon. The num- 
ber of inhabitants is small, being only 151 Spa- 
niards, and 453 Ladinos. There is one church; 
formerly it had a convent of La Merced, and a 

F 2 



68 

hospicio of Franciscans, or a detached body of 
that order, luairitained by the province of Guate- 
mala, for the purpose of preparing missionaries 
to be sent into the province of Tologalpa ; but 
these missions having ceased, this establishment 
has been withdrawn : the convent has also been 
abolished, from being unable to maintain the 
number of members required by the royal regula- 
tions. This city has been repeatedly ravaged by 
the Mosco Indians, aided by English pirates, 
which has occasioned its inhabitants to change 
the situation of their abode three several times. 
It is in 13 deg. north lat. and 86 deg. 46 min, 
west long. 30 leagues from Granada. To the 
westward of it lies the district of Tegucigulpa, 
that of Matagalpa on the south, and the lands of 
the Sambo Indians on the east and north. In 
this province there was formerly another city, 
called New Jaen, situated between the lake of 
Granada and the Atlantic, and the town of Bru- 
selas, on the borders of Nicaragua, of which no- 
thing but the memory now remains. 

Nicaragua, a town inhabited by Spaniards, and 
an Indian village adjoining to it, are known by 
this name, which gave the appellation to the 
province, most probably from its having been the 
part by which the Spaniards first penetrated into 
it. The inhabitants carry on a traffic in cocoa, 
that is raised on numerous plantations in the ad- 
jacent country: from a species of osier, growing 
in the neighbourhood, they fabricate chairs, boxes, 
paper cases, and curious articles of furniture. It 
lies 12 leagues south-east from Granada. 

Masaya is a large village, carrying on a greater 
trade than any other place in the intendancy. 



69 

The population amounts to 6000 individuals, of 
which only 83 are Spaniards. The scarcity of 
water is severely felt here, and the inhabitants are 
forced to supply themselves with this necessary 
article of life from a well of extraordinary depth ; 
and although the descent into it is almost perpen- 
dicular, the Indian women sling their pitchers 
behind their backs, and go down to the water, by 
placing their hands and feet in cavities scooped 
out in the rocky sides, with a celerity that would 
not be credible to a person who had not ob- 
served it. 

The volcano, called Masaya, is at a short dis- 
tance from this village, and was the most re- 
markable one in the kingdom at the time of the 
conquest. Historians relate, that within the cra- 
ter, about 25 or 30 paces in diameter, was con- 
stantly seen a substance like melted metal, red 
hot, which frequently boiled up to a considerable 
height with great violence and noise, emitting a 
light sufficiently bright to read by at a league 
distant, and that the splendour of it might be dis- 
tinctly perceived at sea 25 leagues off: the Spa- 
niards used to call it Infierno de Masaya (the 
Hell of Masaya). In the present day, however, 
it is totally extinguished. At a small distance 
from this, there is another volcano, called Nin- 
diri, remarkable for an eruption in 1775, when it 
discharged a torrent of lava that rolled into the 
lake of Masaya, in which it destroyed the fish, 
and heated the lands contiguous to its passao-e 
to so great a degree, that all the cattle feeding 
on them perished. 



70 



THE DISTRICT OF MATAGALPA. 

It has been already mentioned, that four dis- 
tricts of the intendancy of Nicaragua were for- 
merly corregimientos ; they are now, however, 
very much reduced in importance. Matagalpa 
and Chontales are bounded on the north by New 
Segovia, on the west by the government of Leon, 
on the south by the River St. Juan, and on the 
east and north-east by the province of Tologalpa. 
It produces great numbers of cattle, maize, pulse, 
and other provisions. The population amounts 
to about 20,000, dispersed in 12 villages, and 
many extensive farms, that form 3 curacies, one 
of which is served by the order of La Merced, 
and the others by the secular clergy. 

THE DISTRICT OF REALEJO 

Is of less extent than that of Matagalpa, con- 
taining no more than 6210 inhabitants, and 3 vil- 
lages, besides the principal town. It Hes on the 
shore of the Pacific, between the districts of Cho- 
luteca on the north-west, and Subtiava to the 
south-east. Realejo is the chief place, near the 
harbour of Cardon, or Realejo, 4 leagues from 
the city of Leon, in 12 deg. 25 min. north lat. 
and 87 deg. 6 min. west long. It is inhabited en- 
tirely by Ladinos, chiefly artificers, many of 
whom are ship and house-carpenters, caulkers, 
and smiths, employed in building and repairing 
ships ; for which purpose there are good docks, 
and plenty of timber; also sail-cloth, tar, &c. 
The town was built in 1534, by some Spaniards, 
the companions of Alvarado in his expedition to 
Peru, who, having observed the advantageous 



71 

situation of the harbour, determined to establish 
themselves on a spot so convenient and pro-, 
raising. 

Viejo is a place, at a short distance from the 
preceding, where, on account of its local supe- 
riority, the corregidors have fixed their residence. 
It contains 2968 inhabitants, among whom there 
are only 59 Spaniards. In the estimation of the 
common people, this is a place of great religious 
importance, on account of an image of the Virgin, 
which is kept in the church, and resorted to by 
multitudes of devout pilgrims from all parts, par- 
ticularly on the 8th of December, and the 2d of 
February, on which days the principal festivals 
are celebrated. The traditionary history of this 
holy bijou may not, perhaps, meet with so im- 
plicit a belief from strangers, as it does from the 
natives, who assert, with a confidence which may 
serve to shew the firmness of their own persuasion, 
though it may fail to carry conviction to the minds 
of others, that this inestimable eflSgy was once 
the property of the immaculate virgin St. Theresa, 
who bequeathed it to her brother, and by him it 
was brought into this country, and bestowed 
upon the village of Viejo, as a mark of especial 
favour. 

THE DISTRICT OF SUBTIAVA 

Is also on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, by 
which it is bounded on the south, by Realejo on 
the north-west, by the corregimiento of Nicoya 
on the south-east, and by the government of Leon 
on the north. It is 18 leagues long and 12 broad ; 
in this space there are only 5 villages and a few 
grazing farms ; there are 3 curacies, over which 



.72 

secular pastors preside. The village of Subtiava 
is the principal place, and one of the most popu- 
lous in the kingdom ; it is inhabited only by In- 
dians, many of whom are employed in weaving, 
and they fabricate cotton quilts that are extremely 
handsome and durable, and generally esteemed 
throughout the country. Besides the parochial 
church there are 5 oratories. It is contiguous 
to the city of Leon, and only divided from it by 
a road, 

THE DISTRICT OF NICOYA 

Is the eastern part of the intendancy of Nica- 
ragua on the coast of the Pacific; it has Subtiava 
on the west, the lake of Granada on the north, 
the government of Costa Rica on the east, and 
on the south the ocean. It stretches 23 leagues 
east and west, by 20 north and south. The land 
is of a very fertile description, though it yields 
but little, from want of hands to cultivate it; 
scarcely producing maize enough for the con- 
sumption of the inhabitants; who, in addition to 
this scanty harvest, rear a few herds of cattle. 
On the coast they obtain a few pearls, and a spe- 
cies of shell-fish, out of which they press a fluid 
that will dye cotton of a beautiful and permanent 
purple. The climate is hot and humid, and the 
population so thin as hardly to number 3000 
souls upon all the farms ; and in the only village 
of the canton, which is called Nicoya, situated 
on a river of the same name, navigable from the 
sea for vessels of moderate tonnage. It is 230 
leagues from Guatemala ; in lOdeg. 15 min. north 
lat., and 85 deg. 21 min. west long. 



73 



THE PROVINCE OF COSTA RICA. 

The fifth and most easterly province is that of 
Costa Rica, a name which at present seems to be 
only continued to it in irony, as it is more poor 
and destitute than any other. It extends from the 
River del Salto, which separates it from Nicaragua, 
to the district of Chiriqui, in the jurisdiction of 
Veraguas, a distance of 160 leagues from west to 
east; and from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, 
from north to south, a bout 60 leagues. Its limit, 
on the Atlantic, is from the mouth of the river St. 
Juan to the little island called the Escudo de Ve- 
raguas ; and on the Pacific, from the River Alva- 
rado, the boundary of the province of Nicaragua, 
to the river Boruca, which terminates the king- 
dom of Terra Firma to the westward. The cli- 
mate is for the most part warm, but in some 
places it is very temperate : the soil yields cocoa, 
tobacco, and other productions of warm climates; 
wheat, and such other articles as are peculiar to 
colder regions, are raised in the mountainous 
parts, but all in scanty proportions from the want 
of hands for agricultural employments. There 
are mines of gold, silver, and copper, but they 
are scarcely more productive than the surface of 
the soil is. On the Pacific there is a harbour, 
that of Caldera, or Esparza, and another on the 
Atlantic ; Matina, or the Bar of Carpintero, 
formed by the rivers Barbilla and Chirripo, 
which unite four leagues above the sea ; the rivers 
Ximenes, Rebentazon, and Moin, discharge them- 
selves into the Atlantic: they have sufficient 
depth of water to admit piraguas 8 or 10 leagues 
inland. The Alvarado^ the Rio Grande, and the 



74 

Boruca, with several others of less note, descend 
into the Pacific. Within the government of Costa 
Rica there are 1 city, 3 towns, and 10 villages, 
containing together about 30,000 inhabitants, a 
small proportion of each, compared with the ter- 
ritorial extent of it, and a great diminution of its 
ancient numbers. In the early periods of the 
Spanish occupancy, there were a governor and 4 
corregidors, who had their residences in Quipo, 
Chirripo, Ujarraz, and the four villages contigu- 
ous to Cartage ; the jurisdiction of the first ex- 
tended to the coast of the South Sea, of the se- 
cond to the Atlantic ; and the two others were 
intermediate: these corregimentos were abolished 
more than a century ago, and of many of the vil- 
lages belonging to them, there are no vestiges re- 
maining ; previous to that period it was an opulent 
district, from the advantageous commerce car- 
ried on with Panama, Porto Bello, and Cartha- 
gena, but this has long since been annihilated. 

This province was partly converted from ido- 
latry in 1560, and the following years, by Juan 
Pizarro, who fell a martyr to his zeal; Pedro de 
Betanzos, Lorenzo Bienvenida, and others of the 
order of St. Francis, from the province of Nom- 
bre de Jesus and Guatemala, who baptized great 
numbers of the natives, and established several 
convents for their instruction. The province of 
Talamanca yet retains its idolatry, and the care 
of its conversion remains with the College de Pro- 
paganda fide of Guatemala. The civil adminis- 
tration of Costa Rica is confided to a governor, 
and its ecclesiastical concerns are under the di- 
rection of the bishop of Leon. 

Cartago, the chief city of the province, and re- 



75 

sidence of the governor,^ is situated in the centre^ 
80 leagues from the boundary of Nicaragua, and 
as far from Terra Firma, 30 leagues from the 
Port of Esparza, on the South Sea, and about as 
many from Matina on the Atlantic; in 9deg. 10 
min. north lat., 82 deg. 46 min. west long., and 
400 leagues east-south-east from Guatemala. It 
is under a benignant climate, surrounded by 
pleasant valleys that are fertilized by several 
rivers, and very eligible for cultivating the pro- 
ductions of Europe, as well as those of America. 
The early importance of 'this city may be inferred 
from its having the privilege of armorial bearings 
assigned to it by a grant from the king, dated so 
early as August 18, 1505. It has now a corpo- 
ration, and a numerous population, consisting of 
632 European and native Spaniards, 6026 Mesti- 
zos, and 1679 Ladinos ; in all 8337 individuals, 
with the peculiarity that the Spaniards, Ladinos, 
&c. live in separate wards of the city. The reli- 
gious establishments are a church, a Franciscan 
convent, the sanctuary of Nuestra Senora de los 
Angeles, and 2 oratories. 

Villa Nueva de St. Jos6, next to the capital, is 
the most populous town in the province, inhabited 
by 1976 Spaniards, 5254 Mestizos, 1096 Ladinos, 
in all 8326. It lies in a valley at a short distance 
from Cartago. 

Villa Vieja has 6657 inhabitants, of whom 1848 
are Spaniards, 3935 Mestizos, and 872 Pardos ; 
it is the head of a curacy, and has annexed to it. 

Villa Hermosa, the population of which is esti- 

* There are in the archives of this city, public records of the 
year 15*22, which prove it to be the most ancient city in the 
kingdom. 



76 

mated at 610 Spaniards, 2396 Mestizos, and 884 
Mulattoes, in all 3890 persons. 

Esperaza, or El Espiritu Santo de Esperaza, 
now desolate, was once a city near the harbour 
of Caldera; it had a corporation, a numerous 
population, a parochial church, and Franciscan 
convent of St. Lorenzo. In 1670 it was attacked 
by a French pirate, and pillaged, when the inha- 
bitants retired to the interior, and never after- 
ward returned to their habitations. 

Bagases, a town near Esparza, shared the same 
fate from the same assailants, and was in like 
manner abandoned, 

Ujarraz, once a very large village, but now a 
place of very trifling consequence, and only re- 
markable for a resolution of the governor and 
council of Cartago, in 1666, to walk in proces- 
sion annually from that city hither, a distance of 
2 leagues, to pay their adorations to the mira- 
culous image of the Virgin, which was in the 
church, in gratitude for her seasonable interposi- 
tion and deliverance of them from cerlain irreve- 
rent pirates, who had disembarked in the Port 
of Matina, with the hope of pillaging Cartago 
and ravaging the country. 

St. Fernando, a fort built in the year 1743, to 
defend the harbour of Matina, was a hornwork 
formed of large beams of timber and palisades, 
on the bank of the river, about half a mile 
from the shore, where the passage is about 100 
yards across; it was garrisoned with 100 men; 
this force was afterward rednced to half that 
number, but ultimately entirely withdrawn, and 
the work totally abandoned : it stood in 9 deg. 
.30 min. north lat., and 82 deg. 56 min. west long. 



77 



CHAP. IV. 

Containing a Chorographic Description of the 
Five Middle Provinces. 

The first province in this situation, travelling 
from west to east, is Totonicapan, or Guegue- 
tenango, one of the most populous of the king- 
dom, containing 58,200 inhabitants, viz. 2750 La- 
dinos, and 55,450 Indians, dwelling in 48 vil- 
lages, and 2 hamlets (of the Ladinos), divided 
into 11 curacies, of which the following 7 are 
served by the secular clergy, i;?.2;. Guegueteoango, 
Chiantla, Momostenango, St. Christoval Totoni- 
capan, Sacapulas, Solomd, and Cuiico ; the other 
four are administei^d by the regular orders, viz, 
St. Miguel Totonicapan, by the Franciscans ; 
Santa Maria Nebah, by the Dominicans ; Mala- 
catan and Jacaltenango, by those of La Merced. 
This district is of an irregular figure, the greatest 
length being Q6 leagues, and the breadth 50 ; it 
is bounded on the west and south by the province 
of Quezaltenango ; on the west and north by that 
of Chiapa ; on the north-east by Verapaz ; and on 
the south by Solola; lying between 15 de^. 12 
min. and 17 deg. 20 min. north lat., and 92 deg. 
16 min. and 93 deg. 26 min. of west long. It is 
watered by the rivers Zamala, Sija, Motocinta, 
Sacapulas, Zumacinta, St. Ramon, and Cuiico. 
It is governed by an alcalde mayor, and main- 
tains three companies of Urban militia, one sta- 
tioned in the capital, another in Gueguetenango, 
and the third in Chiantla. 

This province is divided into two districts, To- 
tonicapan and Gueguetenango, the former ex- 



78 

tending over the eastern part, is of a cold tem- 
perature, and yields such productions as are na- 
tural to such a climate. The language of the na- 
tives is the Quiche. There are 2 Ladino ham- 
lets and 7 villages (Indian), 6 of which are very 
populous, the principal one having nearly 7000 
inhabitants ; St. Francisco el Alto 5300, St. 
Christoval 3580, St. Andres Xecul 1200, Momos- 
tenango 5420, and St. Maria Chiquimula6000. 

St. Miguel Totonicapan, the largest and su- 
perior place of the district, is the capital of the 
province, the residence of the alcalde mayor, the 
head of a curacy, and a mission of the Francis- 
cans, who have in it a convent, with a guardian,* 
curate, and conventuals. Of the inhabitants, 454 
are Ladinos, 578 Indian caciques, or nobles (de- 
scended from those of Tlascala, who came hither 
with Pedro de Alvarado, and who are endowed 
with various privileges, such as having agovernor of 
their own cast, being exempt from paying tribute, 
and some other immunities), and 5817 Mase- 
guales, or plebeian Indians. The climate is cold 
and humid, and the chief produce a great abun- 
dance of apples and pears of various sorts. There 
are 2 warm mineral springs of great efficacy as 
baths. The natives are expert in the manufac- 
tory of guitars, fancy boxes, and other articles of 
cabinet work, and of earthen ware ; they have 
besides some woollen manufactories. It is 5 
leagues from Quezaltenango, 11 from Solola, and 
38 from Guatemala. 

St. Luis Sahcaja, 2 leagues from Quezaltenan- 



* Among the Franciscans, the superior of a monastery is called 
the guardian. 



79 

go, and 1 from from St. Christoval Totonicapan, 
is a village of Ladinos, inconsiderable both as to 
its population and trade, bnt deserving of being 
mentioned, because it was the first establishment 
made by Pedro de Alvarado, and its church the 
first that was consecrated to Christian worship in 
this country, and in which was preserved, until 
the year 1690, an image of the Virgin, called the 
Victrix, that, according to tradition, was brought 
thither by Alvarado himself. On this spot the 
town of Quezaltenango had its origin, but being 
transferred to the situation it now occupies, the 
descendants of Juan de Leon Cardona, whom Al- 
varado had appointed his lieutenant, were left at 
Sahcaja ; they lived dispersed upon the various 
farms until the yeaj 1780, when they were united, 
to the number of 622, to form the present hamlet. 
St. Carlos Sija is another hamlet of Ladinos, 
containing 600 inhabitants, who, like those of the 
preceding, were dispersed on different farms until 
1780, when they also formed the existing esta- 
blishment, which is annexed to the curacy of Os- 
tuncalco. It is situated under a very cold cli- 
mate, and carries on but a trifling trade in wheat 
and cattle. 

GUEGUETENANGO. 

This district forms the western part of the pro- 
vince ; it enjoys a variety of climates, and its pro- 
ductions are diversified in proportion • in the cold 
parts, sheep, wheat, maize, and the peculiar fruits; 
in the mild and hot cantons, sugar, maize, vege- 
tables. Chili pepper, and such fruits as the tem- 
perature is suitable to. The native languages 



80 

are the Qaiche and the Mam : it contains 41 vil- 
lages, divided into 8 curacies. 

Concepcion Gueguetenango is the chief place 
of the district, as it anciently was of all the al- 
caldia, and the head of a curacy, and is occa- 
sionally the residence of the alcaldes mayor, who 
then occupy houses that belong to the government. 
Being under a mild and benignant climate, the soil 
produces excellent fruit, but the population has 
so much decreased, as to number at present 
barely 800 Indians and 500 Ladinos, besides 
whom there are a few Spaniards. It is 20 leagues 
distant from Totonicapan, and 58 from Guate- 
mala. 

Chiantla, 1 league from the preceding town, is 
celebrated in the country for the sanctuary of the 
Virgin of Candelaria; which, indeed, is not so dis- 
tinguished for immense opulence as represented 
by Gage, but it is much frequented by the inha- 
bitants of this and the neighbouring provinces, 
who perform pilgrimages to visit the shrine, par- 
ticularly on the 2d of February and 8th of Sep- 
tember, on which days the great festivals are cele- 
brated. The image of the Virgin is a specimen 
of native talent, and was sculptured in the city of 
Guatemala, by order of the Dominican fathers 
(as related by Remesal, fol. 149), at the time the 
place was under their directions; they afterward 
resigned their spiritual oflSce to those of La 
Merced, who retained it until 1754, when the 
sanctuary was secularized by a royal decree. 
The climate is mild, and the soil fertile, produc- 
ing plentifully grapes, oranges, figs, pears, and 
other fruits. The chief article of commerce is 
lead, obtained from a rich mine that also yields 



81 

some silver and litharge. The population amounts 
to 400 Ladinos, a few Spaniards, and 280 Indians. 
The native language is the Mam. 

Santo Domingo de Sacapulas is a large village, 
but inhabited by no more than 1792 Indians, 
whose language is the Quiche. The climate is 
hot and dry, and the productions of the soil are 
similar to those in the neighbourhood of the sea 
coast. The large river Sacapulas runs close by 
the village ; in the pastures on the banks the 
natives collect salt, which rises upon the surface 
of the ground, after having been swept and irri- 
gated with the river water. This was one of the 
first places where the Dominicans preached the 
gospel, in 1537, and where they had a convent, 
founded in 1554, but is now a secular curacy. 

St. Mathew Yxtatan, an appendage to the cu- 
racy of Soloma, is situated in a ravine, at a short 
distance from the river Lacandon, and has 1123 
Indian inhabitants : the climate is very cold. The 
place is remarkable for a salt-spring, the w^ater of 
which, without any other process than evapora- 
tion, yields what is called the fine Quezaltenango 
salt, which is the principal article of the com* 
merce carried on by the natives. 

St. Francisco Motocinta, a small village ap- 
pendant to the curacy of Cuilco, no otherwise 
deserving of notice, than for the phenomenon of a 
river near it; the water of which is of a poisonous 
quality, and so active, that animals drinking of 
it, die almost immediately; when cattle are 
obliged to pass the river, the owners take the 
precaution of muzzling them, to prevent the cer- 
tain mortality that would be the consequence of 
allaying their thirst. The Indians of this place 

G 



82 

weave mats of a scarlet colour, that are mach 
used in the country. The other villages of the 
district are wholly destitute of interest. 

THE PROVINCE OF QUEZALTENANGO 

Is th^ second, in continuation of the route 
already prescribed : it lies between 15 and 16 deg. 
of north lat., and 93 deg. 26 min. and 94 deg. 36 
min. of west long. ; from south-east to north-west, 
the length is 35 leagues, and from north-east to 
south-west, the breadth is 20, forming the figure 
of a spheroid. The province of Soconusco bounds 
it on the west, Totonicapan on the north and east, 
Suchiltepeques on the south, and Solola on the 
south-east. The number of inhabitants is be- 
tween 24 and 25,000 Indians, and from 8 to 9,000 
Ladinos and Spaniards : there are 26 Indian 
villages, and 2 small ones of Ladinos, forming 
together four curacies, viz. Quezaltenango, Saca- 
tepeques, Obstuncalco, and Texutla; in spiritual 
concerns the first is a mission of the Franciscans, 
as the second is of the order of La Merced, the 
two others are served by secular pastors ; the 
village of Olintepeque is appended to St. Chris- 
toval Totonicapan, and Tacana belongs to the 
curacy of Cuilco, both in the jurisdiction of 
Totonicapan. The temperature of the province 
is cold, and the soil brings forth all the pro- 
duce such a climate is favourable to, as wheat 
and maize, potatoes, peaches, apples, quinces, 
cherries, &c. The natives feed sheep, that are 
the best branch of their trade ; the others are 
wheat, manufactured cotton, and wool. The 
languages in use are the Spanish, the Quiche, and 
the Mam. The government of the province is 



83 

pdministered by a corregidor, and it maintains a 
battalion of militia of 767 men. 

The most remarkable river is the Siguila^ which 
in its extended course receives various names ; 
the first is derived from the village of St. Miguel 
Siguila by which it flows ; in Olintepeque it is 
called Xiquigil, a word signifying " a river of 
blood," because, according to tradition, at the time 
of the conquest, the waters were polluted by the 
wounded and the killed in the battle which Ah 
varado fought with the Queche Indians ; it con- 
tinues its course by Quezaltenango, and is after- 
ward joined by another river that comes from 
the village of Zija; it passes by Suiiil, and in this 
part it has several warm springs on its banks ; it 
then passes through the province of Suchiltepe- 
ques, where it is called the Samala, and finally 
falls into the Pacific. 

Quezaltenango del Espiritu Santo^ is the prin- 
cipal place in the province, and received its dis- 
tinctive appellation (del Espiritu Santo) from 
the circumstance of Pedro de Alvarado having 
achieved an important victory, on the day before 
the feast of Pentecost in 1524, by which success 
he conquered the entire Quichee nation. This 
was the first place founded by the victor in his 
newly acquired dominion ; it stands on a plain 
encircled by mountains, 40 leagues east-south- 
east from Guatemala. It is beyond doubt the 
most important, rich, and flourishing village of the 
kingdom; surpassing in several respects many of 
the towns and cities. The population is great, 
viz, 464 Spaniards, 5536 Ladinos, and 5000 In- 
dians. The Ladinos rear large flocks of sheep, 
and cultivate extensive tracts of land for wheat 

G 2 



84- 

and maize. There are numerous artisans in a'l 
branches, and 30 manufactories of fine linen cloths 
of various colours, serges, and coarse cloths of 
different kinds, in which 190 workmen are eni- 
ployed, besides several looms for the manufactory 
of cotton goods. The corregidor of the province 
has his residence here, there is a post office, a 
depot of tobacco, under the direction of a factor, 
an accountant, and four subalterns ; others of gun- 
powder, saltpetre, and playing cards, all royal 
monopolies ; a custom-house, deputy commis- 
sioner of lands, and a vice consulate. The reli- 
gious establishments are, a Franciscan convent 
under the authority of a guardian, a curate, and 
6 conventuals, who administer the sacraments in 
this place, which is the head of a curacy, and in 
5 other villages annexed to it; the principal 
church is capacious, rich, and well furnished, in 
which the chapel of Nuestra Senora del Rosario 
is very curious, as well as in good taste ; there 
are also 5 other churches. The market is better 
supplied than any other, excepting only that of 
Guatemala; the annual sales averaging 18,000 
bushels of wheat, 14,000 dollars worth of cocoa, 
50,000 of panelas, 12,000 of sugar, 30,000 of wool- 
len cloths, and 5000 of cotton cloth, and provi- 
sions of all kinds in proportion. 

El Barrio de San Marcos Sacatepeques, half 
a league from St. Pedro, is a small village of 
Spaniards and Ladinos, amounting to 2500 per- 
sons, principally occupied in breeding cattle, and 
in agriculture; the produce of the latter being 
about 3000 bushels of wheat, and double that 
quantity of maize ; they also manufacture some 
woollen and linen cloths. 



85 

Tajumulco, an appendage to the curacy of 
Texutla is a small village inhabited by about 
1000 persons, regularly employed in the internal 
commerce of the province; it is, however, more 
remarkable for its situation at the base of a vol- 
cano of the same name, that is subject to frequent 
eruptions ; at this place, the soldiers of Alvarado 
supplied themselves with excellent sulphur, and 
it continues to afford a copious supply of that 
article. 

The other villages in the corregimiento are not 
deserving of particular notice ; the most populous 
are St. Catalina Suiiil 3000 inhabitants, St. Juan 
Obstuncalco 1300, St. Martin 1200, St. Pedro 
Sacatepeques 1100, Santa Cruz Comitan 1300. 

PROVINCE OF SOLOLA OR ATITAN 

Is of small extent but numerously inhabited, 
containing, 27,953 souls, residing in 31 villages; 
it lies between 14 deg. 25 min. and 15 deg. 10 
min. north lat. and between 92 deg. 46 min. and 
93 deg. 46 min. west long. ; bounded on the west 
by the province of Quezaltenango, on the north 
by those of Totonicapan and Verapaz ; on the 
east by Chimaltenango ; and on the south by Su- 
chiltepeques and Escuintla : it is divided into 2 
districts, called Solola and Atitan, that formerly 
were two separate corregimientos. 

THE DISTRICT OF SOLOLA 

Contains 15 villages, forming 6 curacies, viz. 
Solala with 4 villages, served by secular clergy- 
men ; Santa Cruz del Quiche with 2 churches ; 
Chichicastenango 1 church ; Jocopilos 2 churches; 
Zacahah 2 churches, and Joyabach 2 churches, 



86 

all belonging to the order of St. Domingo. Of 
the Indians of this district, some speak the Quich6 
and others (he Kachiquel tongues. The climate, 
productions, and trade, are nearly the same as 
those of the district of Totonicapan. 

The chief place of Solola, and of the province 
is the village of Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion 
de Solola, or Tecpanatitlan ; in the times of Pa- 
gan idolatry, it was the residence of a prince of 
the youngest branch of the royal house of the Ka- 
chiqueles, as it is at present of the alcalde mayor ; 
being situated on the summit of a ridge of heights 
the temperature is cold ; the number of inhabi- 
tants is nearly 5000 Indians, among whom are 
many artisans, such as sculptors, weavers, potters, 
and various others. It is distant 28 leagues from 
Guatemala. 

Santa Cruz del Quiche is a village seated on 
an extensive open plain, fertile in the extreme, 
producing grain, vegetables, and delicate fruits, in 
proportionate abundance. It is but moderately 
populous, and contains a Dominican convent with 
the title of a priory. The history of this place is 
singular^ as it was once the large and opulent 
city of Utatlan, the court of the native kings of 
Quiche^ and indubitably the most sumptuous that 
was discovered by the Spaniards in this country. 
That indefatigable writer Francisco de Fuentes, 
the historian, who went to Quiche for the purpose 
of collecting information, partly from the antiqui- 
ties of the place, and partly from manuscripts, 
has given a tolerably good description of this 
capital. It stood nearly in the situation that 
Santa Cruz now occupies, and it is presumable 
that the latter was one of its suburbs; it was 



87 

surrounded by a deep ravine that formed a natural 
fosse, leaving only tv^o very narrow roads as en- 
trances to the city, both of which were so well 
defended by the castle of Resguardo, as to render 
it impregnable. The centre of the city was occu- 
pied by the royal palace, which was surrounded 
by the houses of the nobility ; the extremities 
were inhabited by the plebeians. The streets 
were very narrow, but the place was so populous, 
as to enable the king to draw from it alone, no 
less than 72,000 combatants, to oppose the pro- 
gress of the Spaniards. It contained many very 
sumptuous edifices, the most superb of them was 
a seminary, where between 5 and 6000 children 
were educated ; they were all maintained and 
provided for at the charge of the royal treasury ; 
their instruction was superintended by 70 masters 
and professors. The castle of the Atalaya was a 
remarkable structure, which being raised four 
stories high, was capable of furnishing quarters 
for a very strong garrison. The castle of Res- 
guardo was not inferior to the other ; it extend- 
ed 188 paces in front, 230 in depths and was 5 
stories high. The grand alcazar, or palace of 
the kings of Quiche, surpassed every other edifice, 
and in the opinion of Torquemada, it could com- 
pete in opulence with that of Moctesuma in 
Mexico, or that of the incas in Cuzco. The 
front of this building extended from east to west 
376 geometrical paces, and in depth 728 ; it was 
constructed of hewn stone of different colours ; 
its form was elegant, and altogether most magni- 
ficent : there were 6 principal divisions, the first 
contained lodgings for a numerous troop of lan- 
cers, archers, and other well disciplined troops, 



88 

constituting the royal body guard ; the second 
was destined to the accommodation of the princes, 
and relations of the king, who dwelt in it, and 
were served with regal splendour, as long as they 
remained unmarried ; the third was appropriated 
to the use of the king, and contained distinct 
suits of apartments, for the mornings, evenings, 
and nights. In one of the saloons stood the throne, 
under four canopies of plumage, the ascent to it 
was by several steps ; in this part of the palace 
were, the treasury, the tribunals of the judges, the 
armory, the gardens, aviaries, and menageries, 
with all the requisite offices appending to each 
department. The 4th and 5th divisions were 
occupied by the queens and royal concubines ; 
they were necessarily of great extent, from the 
immense number of apartments requisite for the 
accommodation of so many females, who were all 
maintained in a style of sumptuous magnificence ; 
gardens for their recreation, baths, and proper 
places for breeding geese, that were kept for the 
sole purpose of furnishing feathers, with which 
hangings, coverings, and other similar ornamental 
articles, were made. Contiguous to this division 
was the sixth and last; this was the residence of 
the king's daughters and other females of the 
blood royal, where they were educated, and at- 
tended in a manner suitable to their rank. The 
nation of the Quiches or Tultecas, extended its 
empire over the greatest portion of the present 
kingdom of Guatemala ; and, on the authority of 
the manuscripts mentioned above (which were com- 
posed by some of the Caciques, who first acquir- 
ed the art of writing), it is related that from Tanuh, 
who commanded them, and conducted them from 



89 ' 

the old to the new continent, down to Tecum 
Umam, who reigned at the period when the 
Spaniards arrived, there was a line of 20 mo- 
narchs. They first established themselves in the 
kingdom of Mexico, where they founded the fa- 
mous city of Tula, on the same spot where the 
village of Tula now stands, 14 leagues from the 
city of Mexico. At a later period, their king 
Nimaquich6, by the direction of his oracle, led 
them from Tula to found a new monarchy ; this 
design however was not accomplished, and they 
led a wandering life for many years, until at 
length they arrived at a place where they deter- 
mined to establish themselves ; this they did, and 
in honour of their sovereign called it Quich6. 
This prince died during their unsettled state, and 
his son Acxopil succeeding him, led his numerous 
host into this region; he not only acquired the 
fame of having founded the Quiche monarchy, 
but that of having afterward divided it into three 
separate kingdoms ; he reserved to himself the 
dominion of Quiche; to his eldest son Jiutemal,* 
he gave the kingdom of the Kachiqueles, or Gua- 
temala ; and on his second son Acxiquat, he be- 
stowed that of the Zutugiles, or Atitan. 

THE DISTRICT OF ATITAN 

Is in the western part of the province, where the- 
climate is generally mild, but here and there some 
parts are hot, and others cold ; the soil is fruitful, 

* From the name Jiutemal the word Guatemala may derive 
its origin ; for it is very natural that the country should at first 
be called the kingdom of Jiutemal : and afterward by corrup- 
tion it might become Guatemala : at any rate this etymology 
seems more probable than that given in page 4. 



90 

producing cocoa, maize, pulse, all sorts of culi- 
nary vegetables, aniseed, drugs, and a very great 
variety of fruits ; among the latter, may be parti- 
cularly distinguished the aguacates, for their ex- 
traordinary size and excellence ; cochineal is also 
one of its valuable productions. In these articles, 
aided by the labours of cabinet-makers,carpenters, 
and potters, the inhabitants carry on a tolerably 
lucrative commerce with the adjoining provinces, 
and the metropolis. The district contains 16 
villages, the greater number of them lying round 
the lake of A titan ; they form 4 curacies ; that 
of Atitan has 2 churches ; St. Pedro de la Laguna 
has 6 ; these 8 are served by the secular clergy ; 
Panajachel has 5, and Patulul 3, all belonging to 
the order of St. Francis. The natives speak the 
Zutugil and Kachiquel languages. 

The chief place of the district is Santiago 
Atitan, once the residence of the Zutugil kings ; 
the lords of a powerful nation, con(][uered by Pe- 
dro de Alvarado in 1524 ; it stands on the south 
side of the lake, in a mild and healthy climate, 
and contains upwards of 2000 Indian inhabitants. 
This village was anciently a mission belonging to 
the Franciscan order, and one of the earliest 
founded in the province; the house has been re- 
built in a better style than the original, preserving 
however a part of the first structure, in comme- 
moration of its founder Gonzalo Mendez, and as 
a record of the abstinence and mortifications of 
that apostolic pastor. It is 28 leagues west of 
Guatemala. 

Close to the village is the lake of Atitan, one 
of the most remarkable in the kingdom, as well 
from its extent, as from its peculiarities ; it covers 



91 

8 leagues from east to west, and more than 4 
from north to south, entirely surrounded by 
mountains and rocks of irregular form ; from 
its margin there is no gradation of depth, which 
is at once precipitous, and the bottom has not 
been found with a line of 300 fathonjs : several 
rivers discharge themselves into it, and it receives 
all the waters that descend from the mountains; 
but there is no perceptible channel by which this 
great influx is carried off, a circumstance that 
renders it particularly worthy of remark; the 
water is fresh, and so cold that in a few minutes 
it benumbs, and swells the limbs of those who 
attempt to swim in it: the only fish caught in it 
are crabs, and a species of small fish about the 
size of the little finger ; these are in such count- 
less myriads, that the inhabitants of all the 10 
surrounding villages carry on a considerable 
fishery for them : the communication between one 
village and another is carried on by canoes. 

THE PROVINCE OF CHIMALTENANGO. 

Proceeding still in the same direction as before, 
the fourth province is Chimaltenango, formerly the 
seat of the powerful nation of the Kachiqueles, 
the king of which Ahpotzotzil, and his brother 
Ahpoxahil, the ruler of Solola, sent an embassy 
to Fernando Cortez, offering to acknowledge 
themselves vassals of the Emperor Charles the 
5th, and they received Pedro de Alvarado in a 
very friendly manner when he entered their states. 
This province, and that of Sacatepeques, form 
together what is denominated the Valley of Gua- 
temala, which, from the period of the conquest, 
was under the government of the ordinary alcaldes 



92 

of the capital, who were called corregidors of the 
valley, in virtue of a regulation of the council of 
the Indies, granting a territory of 5 leagues in 
every direction to each capital, until the year 1753, 
when the president of the audiencia, in confor- 
mity to instruction communicated by govern- 
ment, created two alcaldias mayors. Thealcaldia 
mayor of Chimaltenango extends about 20 leagues 
in length, and as many in breadth ; between 14 
deg. 38 min. and 15 deg. 10 min. north lat. ; and 
between 91 deg. 46 min. and 92 deg. 6 min. west 
long. On the west it is bounded by the province 
of Solola; on the north by Chiquimula ; on the 
south by Escuintla, and on the east by Sacatepe- 
ques. In general the climate is cold, but there 
are, here and there, a few spots enjoying a milder 
temperature. The soil produces wheat and maize, 
various fruits, as peaches, quinces, figs, apples, 
pears, &c. and excellent timber. The number of 
inhabitantsamountsto40,082, Spaniards, Ladinos, 
and Indians ; the greatest portion of whom are 
labourers : they are distributed between 21 vil- 
lages, and many detached manufactories, these 
form 10 curacies, all served by the secular clergy. 
The principal places are, 

St. Anne Chimaltenango, the capital of the 
province, and residence of the alcalde mayor, is 
a very large village inhabited by about 3000 In- 
dians, and some Ladinos, in a cold and dry, but 
healthy climate. It is seated in a very beautiful 
valley, and so exactly proportioned in its local 
elevation, that the drainage water of one half of 
the place, and from the gutters of the right side 
of the church, descend into the Atlantic, and of 
the other part into the Pacific Ocean. The 



93 

public square is very handsome, having on One 
side an extensive sheet of water. It is 11 leagues 
from the metropolis. 

Tecpanguatemala is a celebrated place, that re- 
ceived its name from the Mexican Indians, and 
which in their language means the royal house of 
Guatemala, from being the residence of the Ka- 
chiquel monarchs. Here was built the second 
church in the kingdom, and here, as at Sahcaja, 
a religious Franciscan remained to instruct the 
natives, and administer the sacraments to the 
Spaniards, who were left by Pedro de Alvarado. 
The climate is colder than at Chimaltenango, but 
favourable to the growth of fruit, such as peaches, 
plums, quinces, apples, pears, &c. &c, the inhabit- 
ants exceed 3000 ; they are of an estimable cha- 
racter and very industrious, carrying on a traffic in 
wheat and maize, which they raise in abundance ; 
in timber and planks that are sent to Guatemala. 

Patzum has 5000 inhabitants of the Kachiquel 
nation, who are very industriously occupied in 
similar pursuits to those of the preceding place ; 
the climate too is nearly the same. 

Patzizia is a large place, containing not less 
than 5000 inhabitants, who are all labourers ; the 
climate is cold and humid. 

St. Andres Itzapa is cold and dry ; its inha- 
bitants, about 1400, are employed in agriculture, 
and raise wheat, maize, pulse, and vegetables ; 
they feed large quantities of hogs, and cure hams. 
The day before the festival of St. Andrew, there 
is a large fair for horses, mules, cordage, and 
other commodities, held here, which attracts a 
great concourse of buyers and sellers from the 
surrounding country. 



94 

St. Martin Xilotepeque is in the mildest climate 
of the valley of Chimaltenango ; the sugar cane 
cultivated here, and is very productive, affording 
full employment to several manufactories of that 
article: there is a moderate population of Spaniards 
and Ladinos, besides about 4000 Indians. 

These seven places are heads of curacies, as are 
St. Antonio Nexapa, St. Juan Alotenango, and 
St. Miguel Milpa Duenas. 

THE PROVINCE OF SACATEPEQUES 

Lies between the 14th and 15th deg. of north 
lat. and between 90 deg. 46 min. and 91 deg. 46 
min. of west long. It is bounded on the west by 
Chimaltenango, on the north and east by Chiqui- 
mula, and on the south by Escuinlla. Although 
situated under a benignant climate, some places 
are cold, and others exposed to great heat, so 
that the soil is favourable to the productions of 
every temperature. The trade of the inhabitants 
depends principally upon supplying the capital 
with grain (chiefly maize), fruits,vegetables, hogs, 
poultry, fire-wood, coals, and other articles of 
domestic consumption. In length it is not above 
20 leagues, and nearly as much in breadth ; yet 
it is an alcadia, and in proportion to its extent is 
extremely populous, containing 42,786 inhabit- 
ants of all classes ; but in this number, the popu- 
lation of Old and New Guatemala is not included. 
The city of New Guatemala, the towns of Old 
Guatemala and Fetapa, are in this province, be- 
sides 48 villages, and many detached farms. It 
is subdivided into 18 curacies, of which there are 
4 in New Guatemala, 1 in Old Guatemala, and 
13 among the villages, &c. the heads of which are 



95 

Almolonga, St. Juan, St. Pedro, St. Luke Saca- 
tepeques, Amatitan, Petapa, Mixco^ Pinula, St. 
Juan del Obispo, St. Sebastian del Texar, Sum- 
pango, Jocoteuango, and St Raymond de las 
Casillas. 

The most remarkable volcanoes of the country 
are in this district, the one called the water vol- 
cano* is the most lofty in the kingdom, and ex- 
ceeded in height by very few in the world. It is 
of a conical figure, covered to the summit with 
trees that always retain their verdure, and pre- 
sent a most agreeable prospect to the eye. To 
the northward of this mountain stands the town 
of Old Guatemala, on the eastward the Volcano 
of Pacaya, and to the westward that called Vol- 
can de Fuego (the volcano of fire), which, accord- 
ing to the last demarcation of the provinces, pro- 
perly belongs to the jurisdiction of Chimalte- 
nango. From both these mountains there have 
been violent eruptions, the most remarkable on 
record was that from Pacaya, July 11, 1775, and 
those from the Volcan de Fuego in the years 1623, 
1705, 1710, and 1717. At the base of the latter 
there is a thermal spring, the water of which is 

* This mountain has been called a volcano by the Spaniards 
with singular impropriety, as there exists no tradition of its 
having ever emitted fire ; nor have there been found, at any 
time, on its sides, or in the vicinity of it, any calcined matter, 
or other mark of volcanic eruption ; the term volcano, there- 
fore, cannot be justly applied. In 1541, there was a violent 
eruption, not of fire, but an immense torrent of water and 
stones was vomited from the crater, that caused great havoc, 
and destroyed the old city. Father Remesal, in his History of 
the Province of St. Vincente, lib. iv. cap. 5, relates, that on this 
occasion, the crown of the mountain fell down : the height of 
this detached part was 1 league, and afterward, from the re- 
maining summit to the plains below, was a distance of 3 leagues, 
which, be affirms, he measured in 1615. 



96 

very hot, and of great repute in the cure of several 
disorders; it is called St. Andrew's Bath, from 
being situated near the village of that name: 
there is, near the same place, another warm bath, 
that emits a strong sulphuric smell, and is an 
efficacious remedy for the itch. 

Almolonga is distinguished as having been the 
spot where the Spaniards first established the 
city of Guatemala, and is now sometimes called 
Cuidad Vieja (the old city). In 1542, the capital 
was removed to a situation about a league to the 
north-east of this place ; however, some Spaniards 
and Ladinos, and all the Indians, chose to remain 
in their ancient habitations. The convent of Fran- 
ciscans was not removed, and the charge of ad- 
ministering the sacraments in the old town was 
intrusted to it. When the alcaldia mayor of Sa- 
catepeques was created, this place became the 
head of it, a distinction which it retained for 
many years. It was one of the largest, most beau- 
tiful, and best situated villages in the kingdom; 
but, by the second removal of the capital to the 
valley of the Virgin, 9 leagues distant, it has 
greatly decreased in population, by a part of the 
inhabitants having established themselves in a 
little village (also called Cuidad Vieja), which was 
formed near New Guatemala; nevertheless, above 
2000 Indians, and many Ladinos, remained in 
Almolonga, The parochial church is very splen- 
did, and the image of the Virgin, that is worship- 
ped in it, stands in very high repute. The climate 
is cold. The principal employment of the inha- 
bitants is supplying the capital with fruit, which 
they procure from the more distant villages. The 
natives of this place assume the privileges of no- 



97 

bility, as being descended from the Mexicans, 
Tlascaltecas, and others, who lent their assist- 
ance to the Spaniards at the conquest; on this 
account they are exempted from paying any other 
tribute than 2 reals a head, as an acknowledg- 
ment of royal service. 

Old Guatemala, anciently a city, and the me- 
tropolis of the kingdom, now distinguished as a 
town, is the capital of the province of Sacatepe- 
qiies; and, by order of government^ the residence 
of the alcalde mayor. In the year 1799, it was 
invested with the distinction and privileges of a 
town (in consequence of a royal decree, dated 
Aug. 4, 1786), when two alcaldes and a syndic 
were appointed, from among theSpanish residents, 
for its government, and the better administration 
of justice. It contains 3 parishes, Nuestra Seiiora 
de los Bemedios, Nuestra Senora de la Cande- 
laria, and St. Sebastian, each formed of a division 
of the town, and some of the small villages ad- 
jacent. Besides the parish churches, there are 
two others, dedicated to the SantissimaTrinidada 
del Chajon, and St. Joseph ; and 3 hospicios, 
or religious houses, of the orders of St. Francis, 
La Merced, and Bethlem, in which reside a few 
religieux, who serve the church, and take care of 
the convent. The latter has received the par- 
ticular approbation of the^ king, from having 
been the cradle of the Bethlemite order, and 
built at the sole expense of its founder. In the 
general chapter held at Mexico, on the 1st Dec. 
1798, this hospicio was confirmed, and an order 
made that a president and 2 conventuals, at the 
least, should always reside in it. Since the trans- 
lation of the city, there have been from 7 to 8000 

H 



98 

inhabitants in this town; sorae Spaniards, but the 
greater proportion Ladinos. 

St. Joan Sacatepeques was, for some time, the 
head of the alcaldia ; it is now the most populous 
village of the province, containing upwards of 
5000 Indians, 7^ Spaniards, and 336 Ladinos ; 
the latter are chiefly employed in sugar manu- 
factories, and the Indians in agriculture: it is a 
very handsome place ; the climate is cold, but not 
in the extreme; the air salubrious, the soil of 
great fertility, and the market plentifully supplied. 

Villa Nueva de Petapa, a village of Ladinos, 
situated on a delightful plain, 4 leagues from the 
metropolis. It is well built, with a spacious 
plaza, or square, and the streets running at right 
angles : there are some very good houses, a large 
and handsome church, dedicated to the holy con- 
ception, and an oratory. The inhabitants are 
chiefly employed in the culture of maize. 

There is another village of the same name, with 
the addition of St. Michael, nearly a league dis- 
tant from the preceding, inhabited by about 1000 
Indians, whose chief employment is supplying 
the capital with plantains, which grow on the 
lands about the village; and with the moharra, a 
species of fish, which they catch in a part of the 
Lake Amatitan. The two places were formerly 
united, and formed a large village, that carried 
on a considerable trade. The Indians had their 
separate church, with a regular curate, and the 
Ladinos their secular minister; but, in 1762, the 
place was so much injured by an inundation, that 
spread over a great part of the kingdom, as to 
determine the inhabitants to seek another domi- 
cile : on this occasion the Ladinos separated from 



99 

the Indians, and formed the village described in 
the preceding article. 

St. Juan Amatitan is a village of great cele- 
brity, and the head of a curacy. It is seated on 
a plain, surrounded by very high mountains, 
which give it rather a melancholy aspect; but, 
being in the vicinity of the Lake Amatitan, hav- 
ing a beautiful river flowing on the eastern side 
of it, the fine climate, and the contiguity to the 
capital, occasion it to be very much frequented 
by the inhabitants of that city, who retire thither, 
some for the purpose of drinking the water of the 
river, which is a specific in many cases ; others to 
take the baths, and others again for their recrea- 
tion. The situation of the place is well chosen, 
the streets are broad and straight, the houses 
commodious, and the market well supplied. There 
is an oratory, and a large respectable church, 
which contains an image of the infant Saviour, 
that is held in such high esteem by the devout, as 
to attract a great concourse of visitants from the 
neighbouring, and even from distant villages, par- 
ticularly on the first Sunday in May, when the 
principal festival is celebrated. The sacred effigy 
was originally placed in a little hermitage, about 
3 leagues distant, at a place called Bethlehem ; 
but, to prevent the mischiefs occasioned by large 
meetings in retired places, the archbishop of 
Guatemala ordered it to be transferred to the 
parish church in 1789. The inhabitants are for 
the greater part Ladinos, the Indians amounting 
to about 200, each party having an alcalde of its 
own cast. The people employ themselves on the 
lake, where they take moharra, crabs, and cray- 
fish, which they dispose of in Guatemala ; in rais- 

H 2 



100 

ing melons and water melons, for the same mar- 
ket^ and in the manufacture of baskets and mats. 

The lake of Amatitan deserves notice, less for 
its size, which is about 3 leagues in length, and 1 
in breadth at the widest part, than for the advan- 
tages it affords, viz, the produce of fish is so 
great, as to furnish an abundant and never-failing 
supply for the consumption of the capital : it does 
not produce those of the larger kinds, but the 
moharras, generally about a foot in length, are of 
excellent flavour; and the pepescas, a very small 
fish, not exceeding 3 inches in length, are a 
very great delicacy : it also affords crabs, cray- 
fish, and another species called pescaditos. The 
shores of the lake produce salt, in which the in- 
habitants carry on a considerable trade. There 
are also on the borders of it several warm springs, 
very beneficial in many diseases, particularly in 
the complaint called gueguechos, a swelling of 
the throat, to which a great proportion of the fe- 
males of the country are subject. 

There is another village, called St. Christoval 
de Amatitan, about 3 leagues from St. Juan, that 
has latterly been brought into notice, by a dis- 
covery made in it of a cure for cancers, which is 
effected by eating a species of lizard found there 
(this remedy, indeed, does not cure when the 
complaint has acquired great strength, but it never 
fails to alleviate it) : the Indians have used this 
medicine from the earliest periods, but the Spa- 
niards only began, in 1780, to have recourse to it. 

St. Sebastian del Texar, the head of a curacy, 
is situated in the valley of Chimaltenango, and 
contains a moderate population, chiefly of La- 
dinos. The only object worthy of notice within 



101 

its jurisdiction is a medicinal spring, of great 
benefit in several diseases. 

St. Domingo Mixco, a village situated on the 
declivity of a mountain, commanding a view over 
the extensive valley of Mixco, in which the city 
of New Guatemala is seated. The inhabitants 
are Ladinos and Indians ; the former carriers 
and labourers, and the latter employed in the 
culture of maize, and in potteries. Near this 
place there is a vitriolic spring, the water of which 
has been found very efiicacious in the cure of 
diarrhoea. 

St. Catalina Pinula, a village of a moderate 
size, inhabited by 82 Spaniards, 567 Ladinos, 
and 851 Indians. It stands at the foot of a ridge 
of mountains, called Canales, 2 leagues south- 
east of Guatemala. In this place there is a semi- 
nary for the education of females (an establish- 
ment not to be found in any other village), in which 
several young persons lead a retired life, and 
others resort to it for the purpose of acquiring the 
arts and accomplishments appropriate to the sex. 
Those on the establishment of the college, as it is 
called, maintain themselves by the labour of their 
hands, the fruits of their gardens, and the pro- 
duce of their bee-hives, the wax of which they 
have acquired the art of bleaching in great per- 
fection : the regulation and government of this 
college are so well conducted, that it has ob- 
tained a royal confirmation. 

Nuestra Seiiora de la Asuncion Jocotenango, a 
village contiguous to Old Guatemala, once con- 
tained above 4000 Indians, and a considerable 
number of Ladinos; they were mostly day la- 
bourers, in the employment of artificers, and in 



102 

manufactories. When the capital was transferred 
from its old to the present situation, many of the 
Ladinos, and some of the Indians, preferred re- 
maining in their accustomed habitations ; but the 
major part of the latter went to New Guatemala, 
and formed a village in the vicinity of the city, where 
they have continued, pursuing the same occupa- 
tions they formerly followed. On the day pre- 
ceding the feast of Assumption, there is a fair held 
in this village for horses, mules, and general mer- 
chandise, which is usually very numerously at- 
tended. 

The hermitage of Assumption is situated in 
the valley of Las Vacas; it is a small place, in- 
habited by a few Spaniards, Ladinos, and In- 
dians ; first settled in the year 1620, or soon after, 
when the hermitage of the Virgin del Carmen 
was founded ; and, in order that a congregation 
might not be wanting for that church, about 20 
families of Indians were persuaded to leave the 
mountains called the Canalitos, and settle near 
the hermitage, by obtaining for them a royal de- 
cree, that exempted them from paying tribute. 
These families having greatly multiplied in the 
valley, where they lived dispersed^ and wishing 
to be collected on one spot, in the year 1675, 
they presented a petition to the president, Don 
Fernando de Escobedo, praying that he would 
assign a place for their settlement, grant lands for 
their subsistence, and permit the curate of Las 
Vacas to transfer the church, that was situated on 
the River Las Vacas, in the wilds, to the new 
settlement. The request was complied with on 
the 2d of September, in the same year, as appears 
from the public acts passed before the notary, 



103 

Perez de Rivera, and now preserved in the ar- 
chives. A capacious church was immediately be- 
gun, but not completed until 1723, when it was 
dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, be- 
cause the transfer of the first Indians who inha- 
bited the place had been made on the eve of that 
festival: public worship was performed, during 
the building of the church, at the hermitage 
del Caruien. This little village had formerly 
its peculiar curate, also an ordinary alcalde and 
2 regidors chosen from the Spaniards; and an- 
other alcalde and 2 regidors from the Indians ; 
but, at present, from being so close to the ca- 
pital, it is considered as one of the suburbs, and 
the jurisdiction of it belongs to the alcaldes of 
the city : the curacy of the hermitage is united to 
that of Candelaria, in the metropolis. 

Nuestra Seiiorade Guadalupe, a town occupied 
by Ladinos, and recently built, at the solicitation 
of the corporation of Guatemala, with the de- 
sign of employing the inhabitants in the cultiva- 
tion of fruit and vegetables, to supply the mar* 
kets of the city. On the 17th of April, 1799, 
the first stone of the church was laid by the arch- 
bishop and other persons of the first rank, and on 
the 12th of December, 1803, it was consecrated. 

The other villages in the province of Sacate- 
peques do not present any thing worthy of being 
detailed ; we may, therefore, proceed with a de- 
scription of its principal feature, the city of Gua- 
temala, which shall form the subject of a separate 
chapter. 



104 



CHAP. V. 

The Topographical Description of the 
City of Old Guatemala. 

The city of Old Guatemala, once the metropolis 
of the kingdom, the seat of an archbishop, and one 
of the handsomest cities of the New World, was 
founded by Pedro de Alvarado, on the day of the 
festival of St. James, in the year 1524, on which 
account it is generally called the City of Santiago 
de los Caballeros de Guatemala; and supposed 
to be under the especial patronage of that saint; 
for which reason the metropolitan church was 
endowed by Pope Julius the Third, in 1551, with 
all the privileges and indulgences enjoyed by the 
celebrated church of St. Jago, in Galicia. St. 
Cecilia is also considered patroness of the city, 
because the kings of the Kachiquel nation, who re- 
ceived the Spaniards with marks of friendship and 
submission in 1524, but who revolted from them 
in 1526, were effectually subdued on St. Cecilia's 
day : in commemoration of this victory, the royal 
standard is annually, on that festival, borne in 
procession through the city, accompanied by the 
governor^ all the officers of state, the clergy, and 
the nobility ; and because the Mexican and Tlas- 
calteca Indians of Almolonga, aided the Spa- 
niards in the expedition against the Kachiqueles, 
their descendants are entitled to join the annual 
pageant, which they do, clothed in military ha- 
bits, armed v^ith muskets and lances, and dis- 
tinguished by appropriate banners ; some of the 
chief persons of the tribes sling behind their 
shoulders bows elegantly adorned with feathers 



105 

and jewels, which greatly add to the splendour 
of the exhibition. As the capital of the kingdom, 
it was the residence of the governor and captain- 
general, who is also president of the chancery 
and the royal audiencia. The chancery, erected 
in 1542, was then, as it now is, composed of 
a president, a regent, 4 oidors or judges, 2 fis- 
cals, a chief alguacil, and a chancellor, 2 secre- 
taries, and a competent number of subaltern 
officers. The public bodies at the seat of go- 
vernment are a general board of intestacy (Juz- 
gado-general de Intestados), and another of 
lands ; the royal superior tribunal of accounts ; 
the royal caxa-matriz, or general treasury ; a 
board of customs; administration of the post- 
office; a general directory of tobacco; adminis- 
tration of gunpowder, and playing cards; tribu- 
nal of the cruzada (to direct the means of con- 
verting the Indians); the royal consulate; the 
royal mint; and the illustrious cabildo, or the 
council of justice and government of the most 
loyal and noble city of Guatemala, to which body 
the Emperor Charles the Fifth, in 1532, granted 
armorial bearings, — viz, a shield, charged with 3 
mountains on a field Gules, the centre one vo- 
miting fire, and surmounted by the Apostle St. 
James, on horseback, armed, and brandishing a 
sword ; an Orle, with 8 shells Or, on a field. 
Azure; crest, a crown. In 1566, Philip the Se- 
cond granted the title of most loyal and most 
noble city. The illustrious cabildo is composed 
of 2 alcaldes, a royal standard-bearer, alguacil 
mayor, a provincial alcalde, 8 regidors, and a 
syndic. The royal and pontifical university of 
St. Carlos, and the ProtomedicatOf or college of 



106 

physicians, are noble ornaments to the city : the 
first of these bodies was founded by Charles the 
Second, in 1676, and confirmed by Pope Inno- 
cent the Eleventh, in 1687, who granted to it all 
the privileges enjoyed by the universities of Mex- 
ico and Lima; it has 12 professorships and a 
public library: the academic senate at present 
consists of more than 50 doctors. The latter 
was instituted by royal permission, in 1793, and 
is composed of a president, 2 examiners, and a 
fiscal. The economical society of Friends of tlie 
kingdom was instituted in 1795, and confirmed by 
royal decree of the 21st of October, in the same 
year, although its functions were suspended, in 
1799, by royal authority ; it had subsisted long 
enough to leave lasting memorials of its progress 
in the academies of drawing and models which it 
established, and which are carefully preserved ; 
and in the royal cabinet of natural history, that 
it laid the basis of. Besides these institutions, 
there are 3 schools for the gratuitous instruction 
of youth in the initiatory branches of literature, 
and 2 classes of Latin grammar. 

The city is the capital of the archbishopric of 
Guatemala ; it was made a bishoprick in 1534, by 
Pope Paul the Third, and raised to the rank of 
metropolitan in 1742, by Benedict the Four- 
teenth ; the bishops of Nicaragua, Chiapa, and 
Comayagua, are suffragans to it. The service of 
the cathedral is performed with great diligence, 
and no less magnificence, by its venerable chap- 
ter, consisting of a dean, 4 dignitaries, 4 canons, 
and by 2 curate rectors, 2 sacristans, 10 chap- 
lains, 6 acolites, and other ministers ; 2 colleges, 
the Tredentioe and the Infantes, and a numerous 



107 

choir. There are 4 parishes, viz. the Sanctuary) 
St. Sebastian, our Lady of Candelaria, and Los 
Remedies : 7 convents, the Dominican, the Fran- 
ciscan, and La Merced, which are heads of pro- 
vinces, and of the scholastic establishments; St. 
Augustine, Juan de Dios, Bethlem, and the col- 
lege of Missionaries de Propaganda fide ; the 
congregation of St. Philip Neri ; and there was 
formerly a college of Jesuits : 5 nunneries, viz, 2 
of the order of La Conception, 1 Barefoot Car- 
melites, 1 Capuchin, and 1 of the Clarizas : 3 re- 
ligious houses for females ; 2 of the Dominican 
order, 1 for Spaniards, and 1 for Indians, and the 
third for the order of Bethlem : 2 seminaries for 
female instruction : 4 hospitals, viz, St. Pedro, 
for ecclesiastics, St. Jago, for Spaniards, St. 
Alexis^ for Indians, and Bethlem, for convales- 
cents; the first three are under the care of the 
fathers of St. Juan de Dios, and the fourth is 
superintended by the Bethlemite sisters : there 
are also 2 numerous communities ; one professing 
the rules of the third order of Franciscans, and the 
other those of the Carmelites ; and 40 fraternities. 
The population of Guatemala, according to the 
census taken in 1795, amounted to 24,434 indi- 
viduals of all ranks and casts;* among the no- 
bility there is 1 title of marquis, and many fami- 
lies, descendants of the most illustrious houses of 
Old Spain. The Guatemaltecans are in gene- 
ral docile, humane, courteous, liberal, affable to 
strangers, and inclined to piety; but to these 

* Since that period the number of inhabitants has increased 
very much, and it may now be stated, without danger of exag- 
geration, to exceed 30,000. 



108 

good qualities, weakness, pusillanimity, and in- 
dolence, are usually superadded ; they possess 
genius, and an aptness for the arts, which is 
demonstrated by the great number of handi- 
craftsmen in all trades, among whom there have 
been produced artisans of superior talents; but 
those who acquire most celebrity are the silver- 
smiths, sculptors, and musicians: the produc- 
tions of the sculptors are eagerly sought after, not 
only in this country, but in Mexico, and even 
some that have been carried to Europe have been 
highly esteemed by connoisseurs. The class of 
weavers is numerous, and their looms produce 
fine muslins and gauzes, calicoes, and common 
cottons that are used in general wear by the 
poor people of the country. The potters are also 
a numerous tribe, who furnish earthenware and 
china sufficient for all the provinces ; in the ma- 
nufacture of some articles they excel so much, as 
to turn them out of hand but little inferior to the 
porcelain of Germany. Among the females there 
are excellent embroiderers, mantua-makers, and 
florists, who make artificial flowers, that vie with 
the productions of nature ; great numbers of this 
sex are employed in the manufacture of a species 
^f cigars, called tuza, that are peculiar to this 
country; others spin cotton-yarn of every degree 
of fineness. This city has given birth to many il- 
lustrious men, eminently distinguished for their 
exemplary piety, and renowned for their literary 
talents ; the catalogue is too long to give in de- 
tail, it may, therefore, suffice to mention a few 
who have acquired a lasting reputation ; viz. 
Christoval Flores, of the order of Franciscans, 



109 

sprung from one of the most noble families of 
Guatemala, suffered a cruel death for preaching 
Christianity in Algiers, in 1627. 

Diego de la Cerda, of the order of La Merced, 
was torn in pieces by four horses, at Constan- 
tinople, for preaching Christianity. 

Bias de Morales, a Franciscan, of a noble race 
and exemplary life, was the promoter of various 
pious establishments, and died in 1646. 

Alonzo Sanchez, a secular priest, who was 
distinguished for his estimable character and emi- 
nent virtues; he died in 1652; and such was the 
esteem for his abilities and good qualities, that he 
was honoured by a public funeral ; he was buried 
in the cathedral, at which solemnity the royal 
audiencia, the cabildos, clergy, and other persons 
of distinction^ assisted. 

Juan Bautista Alvarez de Toledo, of the order 
of St. Francis, and of an illustrious family,* who, 
for his great literary acquirements, was raised to 
the highest dignities of his order, to the Duns 
Scotus professorship in the university of St. Car- 
los, and successively to the episcopal chairs of 
Chiapa, Guatemala, and Guadalajara; he died in 
his native country in 1726, leaving a great number 
of pious foundations of his own establishment. 

Juan de Padilla, a secular clergyman, celebrated 
not only for his profound knowledge in theology, 

* A vulgar error, by which Leal, Alcedo, and other authors, 
have been misled, would deprive Guatemala of the honour of 
having given birth to this eminent character, the only one of 
her sons who ever obtained the mitre : it is asserted, but upon 
what authority does not appear, that he was a native of St. Sal- 
vador (city) ; this, however, is disproved by the registry of his 
baptism, in the books of the parish of the Sanctuary in Gua- 
temala. 



no 

but for his skill in the mathematics; iri which he 
made an extraordinary progress ; it is asserted that 
he left some curious and valuable manuscripts in 
this branch of science, but at present the only work 
we possess of this learned man, is a treatise on 
the principal rules of Practical Arithmetic, print- 
ed at Guatemala in 1732: he died in 1749. 

Miguel de Zilieza y Yelasco, of a noble faniily, 
doctor and professor of laws in the university, 
provisor and vicar-general of the bishopricks of 
Guatemala and Leon ; canon, director of the 
choir, and auxiliary bishop of his native place ; 
and ultimately bishop of Ciudad Real, where he 
died in 1768. 

Antonio de Pineda y Ramirez, first lieutenant 
of the Royal Spanish guards ; he was intrusted 
with the department of natural history, in the ex- 
pedition which circumnavigated the glohe under 
the command of Don Alexander Malaspina. 

Ignacio Ceballos, a man of noble extraction, 
and great erudition, who by his merit was raised 
to the dignity of dean of the churches of Mexico 
and Seville ; he was a member of the Royal Spa- 
nish academy, and his name is inscribed in the 
number of those who were employed in compiling 
the dictionary of the Spanish language. 

Miguel Gutierres, ex-jesuit, after having served 
several honourable offices belonging to his order, 
died at Rome in 1794: his life, written in Latin 
by Luis Maniero, has been published. 

Having noticed the political bodies, the popu- 
lation, and different classes of the inhabitants ; 
the soil;, climate, buildings, and other particulars 
come next in order: to describe these distinctly, 
it will be necessary to advert to the 3 different 



Ill 

situations of the capital, which are designated as 
Citidad Vieja, Old Guateniah); and New Guate- 
mala. 

La Ciadad Vieja. The site chosen for this 
place, in 1524, between the two volcanoes, was 
only a temporary one, until a more convenient 
spot could be selected for its formal establish- 
ment; but not discovering another situation of- 
fering superior advantages to the first choice, the 
inhabitants determined to remain where they had 
already settled, and to extend their buildings a 
little to the eastward, upon the skirt of the moun- 
tain called the Volcan de Agua ; a place of great 
fertility, very pleasant, under a fine climate, 
healthy, and abundantly supplied with excellent 
water. On this spot, they commenced building 
the city on the 22d of November, 1527, and in a 
short space of time they had erected a decent 
cathedral, convents of Dominicans, Franciscans, 
and Merced arians ; hermitas, or religious houses 
of Los Remedios and Vera Cruz ; houses for the 
cabildos, and a hospital. After 14 years' pro- 
gress, farther improvements were stopped by a 
calamity that finally decided its fate. On the 
night of September the 11th, 1541, an eruption of 
water from the mountain took place, when a tor- 
rent so immense rolled down from the summit, 
sweeping before it large trees and enormous rocks, 
that the city was overwhelmed, the buildings de- 
stroyed, and great part of the inhabitants buried 
beneath the ruins. This irreparable disaster 
compelled the survivors to seek another settle- 
ment, and they fixed upon the place where Old 
Guatemala stands, about a league north-east of 
Ciudad Vieja. 

In a delightful valley^ shut in by mountains 



112 

and bills that always retain their verdure, stands 
Old Guatemala, encompassed by meadows and 
lands which supply pasturage to large herds of 
cattle. Within the circuit of two leagues it is 
surrounded by not less than 30 villages, all of 
them deriving their main support from the various 
productions they furnish for the consumption of 
the city. The inhabitants of these villages are 
employed in all the useful trades ; there are ma- 
sons, bricklayers, bakers, butchers, weavers, 
gardeners, in fact, artisans and workmen of all 
descriptions ; they raise maize, pulse, vegetables, 
fruits, flowers, in short, they supply the markets 
so well as to leave no wish unsatisfied, either with 
the comforts or delicacies of life. Two rivers run 
through the valley, and present to the gardens and 
meadows, farms and country-houses every conve- 
nience for irrigation. The climate is extremely 
agreeable, and in so happy a medium, that heat or 
cold never predominates to the injury of vegetation; 
but a perpetual spring presents its varied bounties. 
The city extends about 12 manzanas* in the nar- 
rowest part ; the streets are broad, straight, and 
well paved, running in right lines from east to 
west, and from north to south, except in the sub- 
urbs, where there are many both narrow and ir- 
regular. There are numerous fountains, supplied 
with water from three different springs, and which 
is also diffused into all parts of the city by pipes, 
so that there is scarcely a house without 3 or 4 cis- 
terns regularly replenished : there are large reser- 
voirs in the streets and public places ; that in the 
Great Square is worthy of notice, being con- 

• A manzana is a solid square of houses, formed by the inter- 
sections of streets at right angles. It varies in extent from 150 
to 350 yards in front. 



113 

structed entirely of stone, very well wrought, 
and filled by two different streams that fall into it 
on opposite sides. The consistorial houses de- 
serve attention, both for the solidity of building, 
and their excellent distribution, as well as for an 
elegant corridor fronting the square, formed by 
columns and arches of masonry. There are 38 
edifices appropriated to religious worship and es- 
tablishments, viz. the cathedral, 3 parish churches, 
and 16 others, 8 convents for men, 8 for women^ 
the congregations of St. Phihp Neri, and of Cal- 
vary, and 11 chapels. The cathedral is a mag- 
nificent temple, more than 300 feet long, 120 
broad, and nearly 70 high, lighted by 50 windows; 
it has 3 aisles, and 8 chapels on each side, of 
which those of the Sanctuary and Nuestra Seiiora 
del Socorro are very spacious ; the decorations 
consist of beautiful statues, paintings of the best 
masters, many inestimable relics, and numerous 
utensils of gold and silver. The grand altar 
stood under a cupola, supported by 16 columns, 
faced with tortoiseshell, and adorned with medal- 
lions in bronze of exquisite workmanship ; on the 
cornice are placed the statues of the Virgin and 
the 12 Apostles, in ivory. In this sumptuous 
edifice, to which there are 7 spacious entrances, 
repose the ashes of Pedro de Alvarado, the con- 
queror of the country, of Francisco Marroquin, 
the first bishop, 8 of his successors, and of many 
other illustrious men. The church of St. Do- 
mingo deserved notice by its elegant design, great 
elevation, capacious vestibule, and splendid de- 
corations, among which was a statue of the Vir- 
gin del Rosario, nearly 6 feet in height, of massive 
silver. In the church of St. Francis, one of the 

I 



il4 

largest in the city, were 3 alcoves, beautifully 
and richly adorned, which contributed greatly to 
the splendour of the grand altar; the singularly 
curious chapel of our Lady of Loretto, in which 
the image of the Virgin of Alcantara* is wor- 
shipped ; at the portal there are several statues of 
saints done in stucco, and enamelled, which far 
exceed any thing of the kind in the kingdom. 
But the greatest treasure, in popular estimation, 
belonging to the church, are the mortal relics of 
Pedro de San Jose de Betancurtj-f that are pre- 
served under the safeguard of three keys, in a 
niche on the left hand side of the presbytery. 
The church of the College of Jesuits, and that of 
Nuestra Seiiora de la Merced, each spacious, and 
with three aisles, possess their due share of mag- 
nificence. The Dominican, Franciscan, and Mer- 
cedarian convents, are the most remarkable for 
their size, solidity of the building, neatness, and 
convenient arrangement of their respective offices. 
Of the convents belonging to the religieuses, that 
of LaConcepcion is the largest ; it is said to have 
been formerly inhabited by upwards of 1000 per- 
sons, nuns, pupils, and servants. The dreadful 

* This image is not without its miracle, for it appears (from 
records juridically authenticated, obtained in the year 1601, and 
preserved in the archives of the convent), that it is the identical 
image which was worshipped at Alcantara in Estremadura, 
where tlie tradition was, that it had been found in the river 
Tagus, enclosed with the infant Don Pelayo, in a chest, and the 
preservation of the prince was attributed to the special protec- 
tion of his virgin patroness. 

f Pedro de Betancuit was a priest, native of the island of 
TenerifFe, who settled in Guatemala; he was held in great esti- 
mation by the populace, who believed that he wrought miracles : 
the subject of his beatification was warmly debated in the Romish 
conclave, but not carried ; however Pope Clement the Four- 
teenth, on the 25th of July, 1771, declared that his virtues 
were entitled to the most heroic degree. 



115 

calamity of earthquake has repeatedly visited this 
city, and has rendered all its local advantages 
unavailing: the most memorable disasters it has 
sustained from this cause, are those of the years 
1565, 1577, 1586, 1607, 1651, 1663, 1689, 1717, 
1751, and 1773. Wearied by these misfortunes, 
and of rebuilding only to experience repeated de- 
structions, the inhabitants at length determined, 
after the shock of 1773, which left one part of the 
city in ruins, and severely injured the rest, to 
change, for the third time, their situation, and 
choose a spot farther removed from the volca- 
noes, the prolific source of so many horrors to 
them, and where they would be less exposed to 
similar miseries ; they therefore, after many exa- 
minations, chose the plain of La Virgen, in the 
valley of Mixco, where, in 1776, was founded the 
new metropolis, in virtue of a royal decree, bear- 
ing date July 2ist, 1775, which ordained that the 
new city should be called New Guatemala de la 
Asuncion, because the last chosen spot was with- 
in the curacy of the hermitage, called La Asun- 
cion de Nuestra Sefiora. 

NEW GUATEMALA 

Stands on a spacious plain of 5 leagues diame- 
ter, watered by several small rivers and lakes, 
that greatly conduce to its fertility, in a delightful 
climate, where the inhabitants scarcely know a 
change of temperature. The city forms a square 
about 15 manzanas each w ay ; it is divided into 4 
quarters, and the quarters into 2 barrios or wards, 
each superintended by its peculiar alcalde, elected 
annually from the residents, and exercising his 
jurisdiction under the control of the judge of 

I 2 



116 

the quarter, who is always a minister of the royal 
aiidiencia. For the administration of spiritual 
concerns, the city is divided into 3 parishes, each 
extending its whole length from east to west, and 
embracing a third part of it from north to south ; 
the centre is called the parish of the Sanctuary 
of the Cathedral ; the northern side, St. Sebas- 
tian's, and the southern, Los Remedios. The 
streets, which cross each other at right angles, 
are 12 yards broad, the greater part of them 
paved : the houses, although rather low^, to miti- 
gate the violence of future earthquakes, are built 
in a good style, very commodious, and judicious- 
ly decorated, — nearly all of them enjoying the 
advantage of kitchen and pleasure gardens, with 
two, three, and even more reservoirs of water. The 
great square is a rectangle 150 yards each way, 
paved all over, and having a colonade on each 
sid^. The eastern side presents the grand en- 
trance to the cathedral, with the archiepiscopal 
palace on the right, and the college de Infantes 
on the left ; on the opposite side stand the royal 
palace, the hall of the audiencia, and offices be- 
longing to that tribunal, the chamber of accounts, 
the treasury, and the mint; on the north side are 
the houses of the corporation, prisons, markets, 
public granary, &c. ; and on the south side, the 
custom-house, and the marquezado de Aizinena, 
&c. In the middle there is a large stone fountain 
of very superior workmanship, supplied with wa- 
ter, brought by means of pipes from the mountains 
to the south-east, upwards of two leagues distant; 
from the same source twelve public reservoirs in 
different places and streets, besides many belong- 
ing to the convents and private houses, derive 



117 

their supplies. This aqueduct is in some places 
carried over valleys upon an extensive range of 
arches, and in others through hills by excavations, 
that have cost immense labour to complete. From 
the south-west there has been another stream of 
water brought into the city by similar means, and 
although from a greater distance, it has, from the 
nature of the country through which it passes, 
been effected with much less difficulty. The ca- 
thedral is small, but in a fine style of architecture, 
and not yet completed; the pedestals and capi- 
tals of the columns, the vaultings of the chapels, 
and many other parts of it, are executed in a 
manner that entitles them to the admiration of a 
scientific observer. Many other churches and 
convents are still in a progressive state ; and, ex- 
cept the Jesuits college with its dependencies, 
and 11 of the minor churches, intended to be si- 
milar to those already mentioned in old Guate- 
mala. But besides those spoken of at the former 
place, there are the college of Seises, the female 
seminary called the Visitation, the Hermitage del 
Carmen, situated on the summit of a hill near the 
city, and that of our Lady of Guadalupe. On the 
north-east adjoining the city there is an extensive 
suburb, divided into 2 quarters, and 4 barrios, 
over which the 2 ordinary alcaldes are the pre- 
siding magistrates : the parish of La Candelaria, 
and the college of the Visitation are in this divi- 
sion, the streets of which are crooked and irregu- 
larly built. Althougli not surrounded by so many 
villages as old Guatemala, the markets of the new 
city are equally well furnished with provisions of 
all descriptions from the same sources, and the 
great markets present a choice of vegetables, fruity 



118 

flowers, poultry^ game, eggs, and other commodi- 
ties not often surpassed in any region. 

New Guatemala is in 14 deg. 40 min. north lat., 
91 de^^. 46 miu. west long., 9 leagues from old Gua- 
temala, ISOfronjCiudad Real deChiapa, 144 from 
the city of Camayagua, 183 from Leon, 400 from 
the city of Mexico, 90 from the Atlantic Ocean, 
26 frani the Pacific, 195 from the boundary of New 
Spain, and 480 from that of Terra Firma. 



CHAP. VI. 

Chronological Account of the City of Guatemala. 

The existence of the antipodes was a problem, 
that for many ages excited the attention of philo- 
sophers, producing, as might be expected, opposite 
opinions among them : and although the hiero- 
glyphics, sculptures, and other monuments of 
Egyptian mythology, discovered by the Spaniards 
in the new world ; and the traces of the sacred 
mysteries of Christianity, almost effaced as they 
w^erc by Paganism, but still perceptible among 
the natives, forbid our denying that there had been 
at some very remote period, an intercourse between 
the inhabitants of the two hemispheres, all idea of 
it was so completely effaced from the memory of 
mankind, that in the 8th century, Pope Zachary 
condemned as a heretic, a certain Virgilius, who 
had supported the hypothesis of the antipodes. 
The time at length arrived, when this important 
problem was solved by the science and intrepidity 
of Christopher Colon, or Columbus, a Genoese, 
the most eminent navigator, and consummate ma- 
thematician of his age. He, either from the pe- 



119 

netration of his own comprehensive genius, as some 
assert, or as others maintain, from the information 
communicated to him b}^ another mariner, who had 
been thrown upon these shores by stress of wea- 
ther, or other casualty, conceived the daring pro- 
ject of seeking a new route to the East Indies, by 
traversing the Western Ocean. He communicated 
his ideas to his own countrymen the Genoese, and 
to the kings of England and Portugal successive- 
ly; but they were rejected by each as chimerical. 
Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, however, gave a 
favourable attention to his proposal, and deter- 
mined to assist him with 3 barks and 1700 ducats. 
This was the only provision for undertaking an 
enterprise, the success of which stands unrivalled 
in the annals of history, and that gave a new 
world, and immense wealth to the crown of 
Castile. 

On the 3d of August, 1492, Columbus sailed 
from the harbour of Palos, commissioned as ad- 
miral and viceroy of whatever countries he might 
discover. After a navigation of rather more than 
two months, he arrived on the 11th of October at 
the island of Guanahani, to which he gave the 
name of St. Salvador : he then passed on to Cuba 
and Hayti, which he called Hispaniola ; and in 
the month of March, 1493, returned to Spain with 
the first intelligence of his glorious discovery. In 
recompense for this important service, he was 
created on the 18th of May, 1493, admiral of the 
Indies, received a patent of nobility, and was ho- 
noured with armorial bearings, viz. a sea, argent, 
on a field, azure, and 5 islands, or, beneath a man- 
tle of Castile and Leon, crest a globe, with the 
motto, "Por Castilla y por Leon, Nuevo Mundo 



120 

hallo' Colon" (for Gastile and Leon Columbus 
discovered a New World). Emboldened by suc- 
cess, Columbus repeated his voyage, and his la- 
bours were rewarded by fresh discoveries. In 
his second, undertaken in 1493, he fell in with 
the lesser Antilles and St. Juan de Puerto Rico : 
he then proceeded to Hispaniola where he laid 
the foundation of the first city in America, which, 
in honour of the queen, he called Isabella. After 
this he embarked again, and on the 14th March, 
1494, arrived at a large island^ to which he gave 
the name of St. Jaime, or Jamaica. Columbus 
renewed his attempts, and they were attended 
with unabated good fortune : on his third voyage, 
which he commenced x4ugnst 1 1th, 1498, he came 
in sight of a large point of land that he immedi- 
diately named Isla Santa, but he soon afterward 
ascertained, that what he had taken to be an island 
was a great continent : he discovered the coast of 
Paria, the gulf of Ballena^ and several islands. 
In 1502 he sailed from Cadiz, on the 9th of March, 
on his fourth voyage, and shaped a course for the 
continent which he had discovered in 1498. After 
experiencing many difficulties he arrived at the 
island Guanaja, from which he steered to Point 
Casinas on the coast of Honduras, where Bartho- 
lomew Columbus landed with a part of the crews, 
on the 14th of August, 1502, to perform mass: 
on the 17th they landed again, and took posses- 
sion of the country, in the name of the king and 
queen of Castile. The admiral continued his re- 
searches, and on the 2d of November of the 
same year, he discovered Portobello : on the fol- 
lowing day he advanced about half a league up 
the river called Bethelem, in the province of Ve- 



121 

ragua : from this event his descendants obtained 
the title of Dukes of Veragua. 

The successes of this enterprising chief were 
too glorious and too interesting, not to excite the 
emulation of others. The result was, that many 
were induced to pursue the route now opened for 
them. The first Spaniard who embarked on this 
arduous service, was Alonzo de Ojeda; who was 
accompanied by Americus Vespucius, a Floren- 
tine.* In the year 1499, Ojeda discovered the 
gulf of Maracaibo, Venezuela, and the coast of 
Cumana. 

In the Year 1500, Vincent Pinzon fell in with 
the Promontory of Brasil, since called Cape St. 
Augustine, and the mouth of the river Marafion. 
In 1506, Pinzon and Juan Diaz de Solis disco- 
vered the coast of Yucatan. 

In 1512, Juan Ponce de Leon searching for the 
island Bimimi, one of the Bahamas, or Lucayas, 
in which he had been assured there was a foun- 
tain capable of restoring to old age the vigour of 
youth, accidentally made the iiiore substantial 
discovery of an extensive region, to which he gave 
the name of Florida, either from the season of the 
year when he arrived at it, being Easter, called by 

* Americus Vespucius, one of the mariners in this expedition, 
published a history, abounding in fables and inaccuracies, in 
which he styled himself the discoverer of the American conti- 
nent, and gave so high a colouring to his narrative, that by the 
incautious he was believed actually to have made the discovery ; 
the affair being laid before the council of the Indies by the 
friends of Columbus Don Alonzo de Ojeda, was juridically 
examined on the subject; he did not hesitate to declare the 
falsity of Vespucius' assertion: the decision of the judges was 
in favour of Columbus, but this did not prevent the pretender 
from enjoying the honour of it, or the glory of giving his own 
name to this fourth division of the world. 



122 

the Spaniards Pascua florida, or from observing 
the meadows covered with flower*. 

On September 25th, 1513, Vasco Nunez Bal- 
bao, the governor of Darien, descried the Pacific 
Ocean, the existence of which was, until then, 
unknown ; and, on the 29th of the same month, 
took possession of it for the king of Castile.* 

In 1516, Juan Diaz de Solis entered the river 
La Plata. In the following year, the coast of 
Yucatan was again visited by Francisco Fernan- 
dez de Cordova; and in 1518, Juan de Grijalva, 
continuing the examination of the coast, found the 
island of Cozumel, the river Tabasco (named by 
him Rio de Grijalva), St. Juan de Ulna, and Pa- 
nuco: to all this region he gave the name of New 
Spain. 

On the 10th of February, 1519, Ferdinand 
Cortes sailed from the Havanna, to effect the 
conquest of New Spain ; which was not com- 
pleted until more than 2 years afterward. 

In 1520, Ferdinand Magelhaens passed the 
straits which bear his name, and discovered the 
Lad rone Islands, which he called the Archipelago 
of St. Lazarus. Leaving these, he reached the 
Philippines, where he was killed. Juan Sebastian 
del Cano then took one of his ships, and returned 
to Spain by doubling the Cape of Good Hope ; 
thus being the first who circumnavigated the 
globe. In commemoration of this enterprise, the 
ship in which he performed the expedition (called 
the Victory) was long preserved at Seville. 

* The ceremony which Balbao used on the occasion was this; 
armed with a sword and shield, he waded into the sea until the 
water reached his waist, and proclaimed the Pacific Ocean to be- 
long to the kings of Spain. 



123 

On the 13th of August, 1521, Cortes took the 
city of Mexico^ the capital of the Mexican mo- 
narchs, making the Emperor Giiatimociii prison- 
er; and terminated the empire^ then in the most 
iloLirisliing state, after it had stood 200 years. 

In 1522, Gil Gonzalez Davila discovered the 
province of Nicaragua, which was afterward 
settled by Pedro de Arias, Davila, and Francisco 
Fernandez de Cordova, officers who had accom- 
panied Gonzalez in his advance from Darien. 

Cortes, having been appointed, by the Emperor 
Charles the 5th, governor and captain-general of 
all the countries he might conquer, dispatched 
Christopher de Olid into the province of Hondu- 
ras. This adventurer landed in a bay, about 50 
leagues eastward of the entrance of the gulf of 
Dnice; this bay he called the Triumph of the 
Cross, from having disembarked on the 3d of 
May, 1523, being the day on which the church 
celebrates the invention of the cross. He laid the 
foundation of a town, to which he gave the same 
appellation. 

The fame of Cortes' exploits spread rapidly 
through the country, and soon reached the court 
of the Kachiquel kings, who, of their own free 
will, sent an embassy to him, offering to acknow- 
ledge themselves vassals of the king of Spain. The 
chief received the ambassadors with all the kind- 
ness and affability so peculiar to him ; treated 
them with every mark of distinction, and gave 
assurances that himself, and all those under his 
command, would govern them with mildness in 
peace, and defend them against all enemies. 

Cortes sent Pedro de Alvarado, one of his offi- 
cers who had been most active in the conquest of 



124 

New Spain, to take possession of Guatemala, and 
receive the submission of the native kings. He 
quitted the city of Mexico on the 13th of Novem- 
ber, 1523, accompanied by 300 Spaniards, and a 
large body of auxiliary Mexicans, TIascaltecas, 
and Cholutecas. After a short detention in sub- 
duing the natives of Teguantepeque, who had 
revolted, he advanced, completed the conquest of 
Soconusco and Tonala, and arrived in the terri- 
tories of the Quichees on the 24th of February, 
1524. He found there so many obstacles to be 
surmounted, so many battles to be contested, 
that he was unable to proceed until he obtained 
a complete victory over the Indians, on the ]4th 
of May. A small chapel was hastily erected; 
and on the following day, which was the Pente- 
cost, mass was celebrated ; and thus commenced 
the Catholic worship in this region. 

OF THE FOUNDATION OF THE CITY OF 
GUATEMALA. 

Alvarado, as just mentioned, having achieved 
the conquest of the populons provinces of Soco- 
nusco and Tonala, and fought many battles with 
the Quichee Indians, who opposed his passage 
with resolute obstinacy, until the 14th of May, 
when they were defeated in an action that de- 
cided the conquest. He then advanced to the 
capital of the Kachiquel kingdom, which, in the 
opinion of the historian Vasquez, (vol. i. lib. i. 
chap. J.) was the old village of Tecpanguate- 
mala: wdiere, according to the same author, the 
Spaniards were received by the King Apotzotzil, 
or Sinacam, with every demonstration of good 
will. The array, having remained there a few 



125 

days, to recover from their fatigues, marched to- 
wards the village of Atitan to attack the Zutii- 
giles. Taking their route by the villages on the 
coast, they overcame whatever force attempted to 
dispute their passage, until their arrival at a place 
called by the Mexicans Almolonga (in their lan- 
guage meaning a spring of water), on the 24th of 
July. This situation, says Remesal, (lib. i. chap. 
2.) pleased the Spaniards so much, by its fine 
climate, the beauty of the meadows, delightfully 
watered by running streams^ and particularly 
from lying between 2 lofty mountains, from one 
of which descended runs of water in every direc- 
tion, and from the summit of the other issued 
volumes of smoke and fire ; altogether rendering 
the place remarkable for its peculiar locality. 
Here they determined to establish themselves, 
until they could discover a spot more suitable to 
their wishes ; and, aided by the Mexicans and 
Tlascaltecas, they erected the requisite quarters. 
On the 25th of July, continues Remesal, the fes- 
tival of St. James, the patron of Spain, the troops 
were mustered under arms and marched to at- 
tend divine service, with martial music and re- 
peated discharges of fire-arms. The splendour of 
the armour of the soldiers, their waving plumes, 
the horses superbly caparisoned in trappings, 
glittering with jewels and plates of gold, formed 
altogether a most imposing spectacle. In this 
array they proceeded to the humble church 
which had been constructed, where Juan Go- 
dines, chaplain to the army, said mass. This 
service finished, the whole body invoked the 
protection of the apostle, gave his name to the 
town they had founded, and dedicated to him 



126 

the church that was to be immediately built. 
The foundation of the new town was solemnized 
by the army with feasts and military rejoicings, 
that continued for three days. On the same day, 
Alvarado, the lieutenant of the governor and cap- 
tain-general, in the presence of the army, appoint- 
ed Diego de Roxas, and Balthasar de Mendoza, 
alcaldes of the town; Pedro Portocarrero, Her- 
man Carillo, Juan Perez Dardon, and Domingo 
Zubiarreta, n^gidors, and Gonzalo de Alvarado, 
chief alguazil. On the 27th of the same month, 
the constituted authorities held their first council, 
when they appointed Diego Diaz the receiver- 
general, and transacted other business relating to 
the public service. At the secoad meeting of the 
council, on the 29th, without any previous act or 
formality, the title of City w^as given to the new 
establishment, as appears from the following en- 
try made by the secretary of the council, viz, 
'' Friday, the 29th July, 1524, the alcaldes and 
regidors of this city of St. Jago took their seats 
in council." On the 12th of August, another 
council was held ; when the office of sacristan 
was bestowed on Juan de Reynosa, and the pub- 
lic officers, with other persons, to the number of 
97, were registered as citizens. With these forma- 
lities, the foundation of the city of St. Jago de 
los Caballeros, of Guatemala, was completed. 



CHAP. vn. 

Of the Royal Chancery of Guatemala, and other 
Public Sodies. 
Alvarado, by himself, and by his lieutenants, 
governed this kingdom from the year 1524, in 



127 

which he subdued it, until 1541, the year of his 
death ; for the first four years by commission from 
Cortes, to wliom the general government of the 
countries newly conquered had been confided ; 
and afterward as governor and captain-general 
of the kingdom by commission from the Emperor 
Charles the Fifth, dated December 18th, 1527. 
As soon as the information of Alvarado's death 
reached the city, the ayuntamiento, or corpora- 
tion, proceeded to elect a person to administer 
the governnvent ad interim, until a new governor 
should be nominated by the king; and on the 9th 
of September^ 1541, they conferred this rank on 
Beatrice de la Cneba, widow of the deceased ; 
she, however, enjoyed the elevation only two 
days ; as she unfortunately lost her Fife on the 
11th, in the calamity that destroyed the old city. 
On this occasion a council was held on the 17th 
for a fresh election, when the chief authority was 
vested in the bishop, Francisco Marroquin, and 
the licentiate Francisco de la Cueba, who held 
it until the 17th May, 1542, when the licen- 
tiate Alonzo de Maldonado, oidor (or judge) of 
Mexico, was sent by the viceroy as governor ad 
ijiterim ; in the same year, the king of Spain con- 
firmed him in the rank of judge, and first presi- 
dent of the royal audiencia of the confines of 
Guatemala and Nicaragua, and appointed as his 
colleagues, the licentiates Diego de Herrera, 
Pedro Ramirez de Quifiones, and Juan Rogel, 
chief oidors of the audiencia. 

This audiencia was created by a royal decree 
of November 20th, 1542, expressed in the follow- 
ing terms, ^7z. " We command that there shall 
be a royal audiencia established within the con- 



128 

fines of Guatemala and Nicaragua ; to consist of 
four learned judges, one of whom shall be the 
president, &c." By the same authority, on the 
13th of September, 1543, the said royal chan- 
cery was ordered to hold its sittings in the town 
of Valladolid de Comayagua. The president 
soon perceiving the inconvenience of this place, 
from being so far distant from Guatemala, still 
farther from Chiapa and Soconusco, and occa- 
sioning many difficulties to the inhabitants of 
these provinces, who might be under the neces- 
sity of applying to the court, granted permission 
for its removal to the city of Gracias a Dios, and 
it was there opened for the first time on the 16th 
of May, 1544. By decrees dated October 25, 
1548, and June 1st, 1549, his majesty authorized 
the transferring of this tribunal to any other city ; 
this was carried into effect by establishing it in 
Guatemala; which translation received the royal 
approbation on the 7th of July, 1565. In 1550 an- 
other change took place, by which it was moved 
to the city of Panama; but on June 28th, 1568, 
a4id January 5, 1569, the former order was re- 
scinded, and the court was once more established 
in Guatemala, where the president and oidors en- 
tered upon their duties on the 5th of January, 
1570 ; and the audiencia was opened on the 3d 
of March following. Philip the Second, by a 
law (6th tit. 15, lib. 1. of the Recopilacion, or 
collection of the statutes), constituted the au- 
diencia of Guatemala a pretorial court, indepen- 
dent of the viceroy of Mexico; and ordained that 
it should be composed of a president, governor 
and captain-general, 5 judges of the criminal law, 
a fiscal, and a chief alguacii. In 1776 the king 



129 

increased the number of its ministers, and or- 
dained that there should be a regent, 5 oidors, a 
fiscal for the civil, and another for the criminal 
law. On the 21st of April, 1788, the number was 
reduced to a regent, 4 oidors, and 1 fiscal civil ; 
but in 1799, the^ fiscal criminal was again added. 
At the beginning of this institution, the presi- 
dent and oidors used no distinguishing costume, 
but administered justice in the dress of simple ci- 
tizens. In 1546, the king issued an order that 
they should carry wands similar to the alcaldes of 
the royal household. In 1559, he commanded 
them to assume the habit of doctors; and in 1581, 
it was determined they should use robes, to dis- 
tinguish them from other learned men ; and this 
costume has prevailed down to the present time. 

OF THE CORPORATION (AYUNTAMIENTO) OF THE 
CITY OF GUATEMALA. 

In the preceding pages an account has been 
given of the foundation of the city, and the ap- 
pointment of public officers for its internal regu- 
lation ; these continued the exercise of their re- 
spective duties with very little variation of dignity, 
until the reign of Philip the Second, who granted 
to the city the additional appellative of Muy noble 
y muy Leal (most noble and most loyal), and the 
corporation was styled Muy noble Ayuntamiento. 
Philip the Third, by an act, dated the 12th of 
September 1600, granted to it the privilege of 
having macebearers on all occasions of public ce- 
remony; and by different acts, of July 9, 1564, 
April 21, 1587, and April 3, 1596, this body 
was constituted Fiel Executor (or examiner of 
weights and measures), which duty is executed 

K 



130 

by the members alternately. Besides these pri- 
vileges, it enjoys the singular pre-eminence, which 
perhaps no other city of the Spanish monarchy 
has obtained, that its ordinary alcaldes are corre- 
gidors of the valley of Guatemala, by virtue of 
which the administration of justice in no less than 
77 villages belongs to them ; this prerogative has 
been confirmed at various times by different so- 
vereigns, in decrees bearing date July 18, 1559, 
November 6, 1604, November 0, 1606, July 7, 
1607, May 23, 1673, and December 10, 1687. 
Previous to the year 1574, the jurisdiction of the 
city extended to the province of Sapotitlan, in 
which it appointed deputies. Down to the pre- 
sent time it has continued to receive marks of 
royal favour from the successive monarchs, either 
by granting fresh distinctions, by confirming those 
it already possessed, or by securing all the prero- 
gatives it had enjoyed by custom. The number 
of individuals in the corporation has varied at 
different periods ; at first, it has been shewn, 
there were no more than 7. In 1527, the office of 
procurator syndic was added. About the middle 
of the 17th century this body had its greatest num- 
ber, for in addition to the alcaldes and syndic, 
there were a royal standard-bearer, chief algua- 
cil, provincial alcalde, trustee-general, treasurer 
of stamped paper, and 12 other members not 
holding offices. — At other times there were a di- 
rector of the posts, and a receiver of fines. At 
present the corporation is composed of 2 alcaldes, 
a standard-bearer, chief alguacil, provincial al- 
calde, 8 regidors, and a procurator syndic; the 
latter, and the alcaldes are elected annually, but 
the others hold their situations in perpetuity. In 



131 

the year 1734, 6 regidors were elected annually 
by order of the audiencia, as there were but few 
members who held perpetual offices, and this 
continued to be the practice for several years. In 
1777, the regidors began to be elected biennially^; 
but in 1792, the office was made permanent. Since 
the year 1783, it has been the custom for the mem- 
bers, when they attend in their official capacity, to 
wearauniform, which for full dress is of black velvet 
lined withclothof gold, and a waistcoat of the same. 

OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ST. CARLOS DE 
GUATEMALA. 

Although the university was not founded until 
the year 1678, yet the inhabitants of the city had 
not been negligent in promoting education. Fran- 
cisco de Marroquin, the first bishop, when only 
curate of Guatemala, favoured with all his abili- 
ties the establishment of a school for instructing 
the children of Spaniards. When elevated to the 
episcopal dignity, he represented to his majesty 
the necessity of having a professor for the Latin 
language; by an order of March 26th, 1546, the 
opinion of the royal audiencia was taken on 
the subject ; and in consequence, on the 16th of 
June, 1548^ a professorship of grammar was insti- 
tuted by the king's order. In the year 1559, the 
Bishop Marroquin and the corporation petition- 
ed his majesty to found a university, as there were 
not then in the city the means of giving instruction 
in theology, or the liberal arts ; and in 1560, the 
bishop, in conjunction with the audiencia, repre- 
sented that it would also be very beneficial to 
found a college of Jesuits ; but neither measure 
was carried into effect. Marroquin being unsuc- 

K 2 



132 

cessful in obtaining tbis object during his life, be- 
queathed, at his death, funds for erecting a college, 
in which 12 students, chosen from among the sons 
of deserving citizens, should be instructed in 
philosophy and theology, appointing the dean 
of Guatemala, and the prior of the Dominican 
convent, patrons of the same. The object of the 
bequest was undertaken with great zeal ; the 
convent of St. Domingo granted a piece of ground 
within its own precincts for the building, and in 
a short time the requisite halls were erected. 
The audiencia determined that those persons of 
the Dominican order, whose duty it was to read 
lectures in their convent, should perform the same 
service in the college, without any stipend for a 
certain number of years, until the funds of the es- 
tablishment should be sufficiently increased to pay 
the lectureships. In 1574, the provincial of the 
Franciscans, Bernardino Peres, presented two 
religieux of his order as lecturers, without emo- 
lument ; but this was opposed by the Domini- 
cans, to whom the audiencia had confided the 
task. It appears, however, that in this college, 
which was at first called St. Thomas, no lectures 
were read before the year 1620 ; and also from a 
memorial presented to the king of Spain in 1601, 
that there existed at that period no other semina- 
ry in the kingdom, than the Tridentine college of 
Guatemala. In 1620, the dean of Guatemala, 
Philip Ruiz del Corral; the provincial of the 
Dominicans, Ambrosio Diaz del Castillo; the 
Doctor Pereira, and Garcia Loaiza, commenced a 
course of lectures, in St. Thomas. Philip the 
Fourth erected the college into a university, with 
the privilege of granting degrees ; but for a limit- 



133 

ed time only. In virtue of this faculty, the Bishop 
Juan de Sapata, on the 15th June, 1625, conferred 
the diploma of doctor on the dean, Philip Ruiz 
de. Corral, Francisco Zevallos, and Alonso Gu- 
rao, of the order of Dominicans ; and that of ba- 
chelor on Ambrosio, and Thomas Diaz del Cas- 
tillo. About the period of commencing the lec- 
tures in the college of St. Thomas, a course of 
studies was begun in the college of the Jesuits; 
and although the royal order of February 2nd, 
1622, had been received, by which they were 
commanded to observe the ordinance of Pope 
Gregory the Fifteenth, dated August 8th, 1621, 
permitting all colleges of the company of Jesus, 
distant 200 miles from any of the general univer- 
sities, to grant degrees which should be confirmed 
by the archbishops and bishops, they refrained 
from exercising this privilege, because these ho- 
nours were conferred in the college of St. Thomas, 
as just mentioned ; but the course of studies 
ceasing in this college shortly after 1625, degrees 
were then granted in that of the company. 

In 1659, the funds of the college of St. Tho-. 
mas had accumulated so much, that the patrons 
thought it time to proceed with its formal esta^ 
blishment. For although lectures had been deli- 
vered in it since 1620, and degrees had been con- 
ferred, yet there had been neither rector, students, 
nor any proper collegiate form of discipline. They, 
therefore, nominated the Bachelor Antonio Serre- 
zuela Calderon to be the first rector, and receiv- 
ed eight children of noble families, as students, 
whom they distinguished by purple gowns and 
scarlet scarfs; they also gave the direction of the 
professorships to the fathers of the Dominican 



134 

convent. The college, however, did not remain 
long in this state; for in 1646, Pedro Crespo 
Suarrez, director of the post-office in the city, 
bequeathed at his death 20,000 dollars, for the 
endowment of professorships of law, medicine, 
and philosophy, in the university, when it should 
be established : with this increase of means, the 
foundation was advanced with more zeal and 
energy. The ayuntamiento of the city preferred 
frequent applications, and earnestly solicited his 
majesty to grant them this favour : for the same 
purpose they made representations also to Don 
Payo de Rivera, and the royal audiencia of 
Mexico. The supreme council of the Indies, 
taking into consideration the request of so respec- 
table a body, issued an order on the 5th July, 
1673, commanding a junta to be formed, in the 
city of Guatemala, consisting of the president, 
the senior judge, the fiscal of the royal audiencia, 
the bishop, and the dean of the cathedral, to con- 
fer, and deliberate maturely, after examining and 
duly considering the advantages or disadvantages 
that such a foundation would produce.^ 

In virtue of this determination, the committee 
was formed in the manner prescribed, and it ap- 
pearing to them that no disadvantage, but on the 
contrary great utility would accrue from the erec- 
tion of the university, they represented to his ma- 
jesty, that it would be of the greatest benefit to 
the whole kingdom. This information being re- 
ceived by the supreme council, a decree was is- 
sued on the 5th January, 1676, for creating the 
college of St. Thomas Aquinus of Guatemala, 
a university. This decree was received with 

* This appears from the original acts of the foundation. 



135 

the utmost joy and satisfaction : as it conceded 
to the city what had been so ardently desired and 
petitioned for, for upwards of a century. The 
committee assembled several times, in the same 
manner as before (except that the bishop absent- 
ed himself on account of some disagreement which 
had occurred between him and the other mem- 
bers), to deliberate upon the most effective method 
of completing the foundation. The first object 
was to adapt the college to this object : they built 
halls, a general school, chapel, with other neces- 
sary offices, and placed the royal arms over the 
entrance ; the expense of these works was defray- 
ed by the doctors, Jacinto Roldan de la Cueba, 
and Juan Bautista de Urquiola Elorriaga, judges 
of the audiencia, and superintendants of the uni- 
versity. Immediately after the buildings were 
completed, probationary lectures were delivered, 
both here and in the university of Mexico ; which 
being terminated, Don Fernando de Escobeda 
the president, the 2 oidors, and the fiscal, pro- 
ceeded to elect the professors, on the 6th Decem- 
ber, 1678 ; when Rafael del Castillo, a Domi- 
nican, was chosen for theology, Diego Rivas, a 
Mercedarian, for moral theology ; Augustin Ca- 
no, a Dominican, for philosophy; for canon law, 
the bachelor Juan Melendez Carreno ; for civil 
law, the bachelor Jacinto Jayme Moreno; for 
the institutes, the bachelor Antonio Davila Quiii- 
ones ; for medicine, the bachelor Jose Salmeron ; 
and for the Kachiquel language, Jose Senoyo, a 
Dominican. 

Soon after these elections were made, a decree 
of the 19th of September, 1678, was received, com- 
municating his majesty's approbation of the mear^ 



136 

sures that had been pursued by the committee; 
but with respect to the chairs of the cauon, and 
civil law, and medicine, it was ordered that the 
archbishop, viceroy of Mexico^ Payo de Rivera, 
should, by public edict in the city of Mexico, 
and with the assistance of two members of the 
audiencia, elect competent professors to fill them; 
and that in case the audiencia of Guatemala should 
have previously chosen them, such choice was to 
be considered as invalid. The royal ordinance 
was complied with in Mexico, but no candidates 
were found ; the supreme council, therefore, de- 
termined that a similar edict should be promul- 
gated in the Spanish capital. In consequence, 
many learned men from the university of Sala- 
manca appeared, and delivered probationary lec- 
tures in the hall of the supreme council ; after 
which the choice was decided in favour of Dr. Bar- 
tholomew de Amezquita for the canon law, and 
Dr. Pedro de Ozaeta for the civil law, with the 
privilege, that after they had filled these stations 
five years, they should obtain the situation of 
oidors of the audiencia of Guatemala. In medi- 
cine, the choice fell upon Dr. Miguel Fernandez. 
The other professorships that had been con- 
ferred in Guatemala were approved of, with the 
exception of theology ; because one of the candi- 
dates, Jose de Banos y Sotomayor, a doctor of 
the university of Osuna, archdeacon of the ca- 
thedral, and a king's chaplain (titles which his 
distinguished talent rendered still more honour- 
able), being unsuccessful, the council of the In- 
dies conceived that he had been slighted ; and, 
therefore, to repair the injury sustained, appointed 
him to the professor's chair, with th^ additional 



137 

rank of chief rector of the university of St. Carlos 
de Guatemala. 

On the 6th of June, 1680, his majesty issued an 
order to compose a code of laws for the govern- 
ment of the new university, which task was per- 
formed by Francisco de Sarasa y Arce, oidor of 
the audiencia, and superintendent of the univer- 
sity. These were transmitted to the council in 
1681, which, by an act of the 26th of February, 
1686, approved of them, and of all that had been 
done, as well with regard to the building, as to 
the collection and management of the revenues ; 
and accordingly confirmed the constitutions, 
with some few modifications. The Rector de 
Banos continued in his office until his death, in 
1696 ; when there not being a competent number 
of doctors to elect a rector, the vice patron, 
instituted Dr. Juan de Cardenas, master of the 
choir in the cathedral, to that situation. His 
successor. Dr. Juan de Merlo, was appointed in 
the same manner, and continued in the office from 
September 8 to November 10, 1705, when there 
being a sufficient number of doctors, they began 
to elect a rector annually, as enacted by the con- 
stitutions. 

Pope Innocent the Eleventh, by a bull, ** e su- 
prema," dated June 18, 1687, confirmed the esta- 
blishment of the university, endued it with the 
faculty of conferring degrees in all sciences, and 
granted to it all the privileges enjoyed by the uni- 
versities of Mexico and Lima; consequently, all 
persons who graduate in it enjoy, in the Spanish 
dominions of America, the liberties and franchises 
that are peculiar to the graduates of Salamanca, 
in the kingdom of Spain. There are 8 endowed 



138 

professorships ; two filled by the order of Fran- 
ciscans, without stipends, viz. theology, since the 
year 1688^ and philosophy from 1714; and the 
university, in recompense for this service, grants 
the degree of doctor, without the usual fees, to 4 
individuals of that order. Another chair of phi- 
losophy has been for some time filled by one of 
the Dominican order without salary. Professor- 
ships of divinity, anatomy, and rhetoric, were still 
■wanting, and the heads of the establishment be- 
gan to devise the means of introducing them. 
Until they could be regularly instituted, it was 
resolved that a doctor from among the clergy of 
the city should take charge of the first; a phy- 
sician of the second, and a Dominican of the 
third.* But the individuals who lectured on ana- 
tomy and rhetoric having quitted the capital, di- 
vinity was continued under the charge of Dr. Jose 
Bernardo Dighero. From this seminary have is- 
sued 5 bishops, a physician, and a surgeon to the 
king, and a great number of men who have been 
distinguished in their public employments for 
their virtue and literary talents. There are now 

* From the foundation of the university, until the year 1778, 
the lectures were delivered according to the old scholastic 
method ; in the latter year, the first course of experimental 
philosophy was begun, and a better taste in the sciences was 
gradually introduced ; the professors became attached to mo- 
dern theories, and some points of the mathematics were touch- 
ed upon. In the month of October, 1792, examinations in 
geometry took place for the first time, and were repeated in 
May, 1795. In 1789, 1790, and 1794, there were examinations 
in anatomy, for which purpose models were made and adapted 
to the various operations, that were to be demonstrated, which 
are still preserved for the use of those who dedicate them- 
selves to this branch of science. In March, 1798, four young 
men were examined in surgery, being the first who have gra- 
duated in that faculty ; and in July, 1799, there were exaujina-' 
iiom hi philosophy, according to the Socratic mode. 



139 

in (he university 50 doctors, 1 master of arts, and 
1 licentiate. 

There are in the city various tribunals and pub- 
lic bodies; the history of some of them is not cor- 
rectly known, and in that of others^ there is but 
little worthy of particular notice ; those only, 
therefore, that possess any remarkable circum- 
stances, either in the institution or progress, need 
be specified. Of these, the royal mint holds the 
first rank. It was built in 1731 ; on the 17th of 
February, 1733, the dies and other implements for 
the coinage of gold money arrived from Mexico, 
and were received with great ceremony. The 
chief officers of the city, accompanied by the no- 
bility, &c. proceeded as far as the village of Joco- 
tenango to meet them ; the cases containing the 
dies were placed in the president's coach, which 
was escorted by the cavalry guard, preceded by 
the magistrates of the neighbouring villages, and 
followed by the ayuntamiento and the nobility in 
carriages. On arriving at the great square, the 
procession was saluted with the ringing of bells, 
and a discharge of artillery ; the president and 
the officers of government then advanced to re- 
ceive the cases, and deposit them in the proper 
offices. A similar ceremony was performed on 
the 28th of the same month, to introduce other 
dies that arrived on that day, with Don Jose de 
Leon, director of the mint, and other officers. 
On the 1st of March, the exportation of silver 
was prohibited by proclamation ; on the 4th, offi- 
cers were appointed to the vacant situations of the 
establishment; and on the 19th, the first money 
was coined, viz. 5 doubloons, having the king's 
bust, v^'ith the legend, " Philipus Y. Dei Gratia 



140 

Hispaniarum etIndiarumRex,'* on one side; and 
the arms of the kings of Spain, with the motto, 
" Initium Sapientiae est Timor Domini," on the 
reverse. At this first official act, the president, 
the bishop, the aywntamiento, the regular prelates, 
and many persons of distinction assisted ; the ce- 
remony concluded, the president and all the cor- 
tege repaired to the cathedral, where the bishop, 
accompanied by his clergy, was in attendance, 
and " Te Deum" was sung with great solemnity ; 
after which, on a given signal, a general salute of 
bells, artillery, and musketry, took place. At 
night the city was illuminated, and on the follow- 
ing day a proclamation was issued, to give cur- 
rency to the new money. In the space of six 
years all the necessary buildings were completed 
in the best style of arrangement, under the direc- 
tion of Don Jose de Leon. The whole expense 
of the edifice amounted to 19,000 dollars, which 
was defrayed out of the produce of the coinage, 
that, in the same period, gave a surplus to the 
king of 20,000 dollars. The solidity of the build- 
ing was put to the test by the earthquake of 1773 ; 
and when others of more recent construction were 
most seriously injured, this sustained but very 
little damage. When the new city was built in 
the valley del Virgen, a new mint was erected 
adjoining the governor's palace. The establish- 
ment is governed by the ordinances, dated August 
1, 1750, which were founded upon those of Ca- 
saya, in 1730. The officers of the mint are a 
superintendent, who is always a member of the 
royal audiencia, an accountant, and a treasurer 
(who are the king's officers), a weigher, 2 assayers, 
an engraver, and others of inferior note. The 



141 

principal part of the money coined in the mint 
at the commencement of its operations, was that 
called the Cut or Macaca, although a portion of 
the round coin has always been worked. The 
gold was stamped with the devices before men- 
tioned. The silver presented, on one side the 
royal arms, with the name and style as a legend ; 
on the reverse, two globes, under a crown, with 
the pillars of Hercules, and the motto, " Utraque 
unum." In 1771, a new die was introduced, and 
the king's bust took place of the globes and pil- 
lars, when the old money was called in, that the 
coinage from the mints both of Spain and Ame- 
rica might be uniform. 

The general administration of taxes, presents 
itself next in succession. This revenue was for a 
long time farmed by the ayuntamiento ; but in 
1763, it was ordered to be collected on account 
of his majesty, according to instructions issued on 
the 20th of February, 1762, and officers were ap- 
pointed for that purpose. These are an adminis- 
trator-general, an accountant, 2 supervisors, an 
alcalde, and a great number of inferior officers, 
who are employed in the receipt of the several 
duties. At the same period, four district admi- 
nistrations were established in the cities of St. 
Salvador, Leon, Ciudad Real, and Comayagua, 
with a competent number of officers, who pass 
their accounts with the administrator-general. 

The directory of the tobacco revenue was 
formed in 1767, at which time the royal monopoly 
of this branch of commerce was established ; it 
consists of a director-general, an accountant, 
treasurer, and other officers. The administrations 
of this impost in the cities of Granada, St. Salva- 



142 

dor, and Ciudad Real, are subordinate to the 
directory in the metropolis. 

The accountant-generalship was established in 
the year 1771, although from the time of the con- 
quest there had been an accountant of the royal 
revenues, he had neither subordinate officers, or 
jurisdiction ; and his duties were reduced merely 
to putting a few notes and observations to the 
accounts that came before him : a copy of these 
observations was remitted to the royal officer or 
accountant, who audited the same, and they were 
finally adjusted by 2 members of the audiencia. 
In 1769, a representation of the negligent adminis- 
tration, and confused arrangement of the public 
accounts of the kingdom, was made to the king, 
and it was determined to create the accountant- 
generalship, according to a code of instructions 
drawn up by the accountant-general of the Indies. 
The first person appointed to this new office was 
Don Salvador Dominguez de Salgado. On his 
arrival he opened the tribunal of accounts in 
February, 1771, and began to arrange his system 
in conformity to the prescribed regulations. The 
chamber was composed of the chief, 5 other offi- 
cers, and a secretary; but in 1800, a second ac- 
countant-general was added to it, with the same 
authority and distinctions as the first. 

The tribunal of the consulate was established 
in the city of Guatemala on the 30th of A pril, 1 794, 
in consequence of the royal commands issued on 
the nth of December, 1793 ; which ordered that 
it should be governed by the ordinances of 
Bilbao, in all cases that were not expressly pro- 
vided for by the said decree. The Marquis Juan 
Firmin de Ayzineaa was appointed prior; Don 



143 

Manuel Jose Juarros first consul; and Don Jose 
Antonio Castanedo the second ; the other officers 
were selected from the inhabitants of the city. 

The royal economical society had its com- 
mencement in 1795, when the oidor Don Jacobo 
de Villa Urrutia, Doctor Antonio Garcia, the 
Eeverend Jose Antonio Goicoechea, and several 
others of the principal inhabitants, obtained the 
president's permission to hold meetings, in which 
they discussed, with great zeal, the most effectual 
means to advance the progress of the arts, to en- 
courage agriculture, and to promote the public 
advantage and happiness of the whole kingdom. 
The members immediately directed their atten- 
tion to the introduction of spinning-wheels, and 
to instruct women in the use of them ; in the 
sitting held on the 4th of November of the same 
3^ear, they distributed rew^ards to those who pro- 
duced the best specimens of thread. The king 
signified his approbation of the society's proceed- 
ings on the 21st of October, 1795. The members, 
animated by this mark of royal favour tow^ards 
the infant establishment, continued their exer- 
tions with the greatest energy ; they endeavoured 
to encourage the cultivation of cocoa and cotton, 
to a greater extent than had hitherto been prac- 
tised, by offering premiums to such as should 
successfully plant the greatest number of these 
trees. They excited emulation among the wea- 
vers by assigning rewards to those who presented 
the finest gauzes and muslins. To facilitate the 
progress of the mechanical arts, they opened 
on the 6th of March, 1797, a school of drawing, 
in which 32 young men were instructed gratis, 
from 7 until 9 o'clock of the evening, and in each 



144 

month prizes were given to the authors of the two 
best pieces. For the same purpose a school of 
mathematics was established, in which lectures 
commenced on the 8th of January, 1798 ; and on 
January 27, 1800, a model academy was opened. 
To give a more powerful stimulus to emulation, 
a public sitting' w^as held every half year, when 
the most distinguished personages of the capital 
attended ; at these meetings an extract from the 
journals of the society's operations was read, prizes 
were awarded to the successful candidates, and 
the sitting terminated with a discourse delivered 
by one of the associates, eulogizing the institution, 
and exhorting to a strenuous continuation of their 
endeavours to promote the general good. The 
patriotic zeal of this body obtained for it a fresh 
mark of royal favour, by his majesty's communi- 
cating to it on the 15th July, 1799, his entire 
satisfaction at the operations which had so power- 
fully contributed to the public advantage, and he 
desired that the royal audiencia should propose 
to him such measures as they might think expe- 
dient to ensure its continuance. With these flat^ 
tering prospects of success, on the 14th of July, 
1800, contrary to all expectation, and to the great 
astonishment of every person, a royal order was 
received, by which its farther meetings and ul- 
terior progress were prohibited, without vouch- 
safing any reasons for a determination so extraor- 
dinary and apparently injurious. 



145 



CHAP. Yin. 



Of some of the most remarJcaMe Calamities that 
have happened to the City of Guatemala, 

From the time the first transgressors were ex- 
pelled from Paradise, miseries, misfortunes, and 
calamities, have formed a very prominent part in 
every history. Whether the case of a single per- 
sonage, of any body politic, of a city, or of a king- 
dom, be considered, the number of disasters and 
adverse events will usually be found to have sur- 
passed the instances of prosperity. Guatemala is 
very far from being an exception to this rule: with- 
in two years after its foundation, it was ravaged, 
and its inhabitants driven from their homes to 
wander as fugitives, by the rebellion of the Kachi- 
quel Indians. On Ferdinand Cortes' arrival at 
the port of Truxillo in the year 1526, it was the 
duty of Pedro de Alvarado to go thither to attend 
him ; and he left his brother Gonzalo, with the 
authority of lieutenant, during his absence. Im- 
pelled by avarice, the latter determined to seize 
this favourable opportunity of enriching himself 
in a very short time : with this view he demanded 
an exorbitant tribute from the populous village 
of Patinamit ; ordering that 800 of the Indians 
should each bring him, every day, a reed of the 
size of his little finger filled with fine gold, under 
the penalty of being taken as slaves, in case of 
failure. The unhappy victims of his rapacity 
exerted themselves to the utmost to pay this 
iniquitous exaction; but all their endeavours 
being ineffectual, the governor went to the village, 
inflicted severe punishments, and threatened them 

L 



146 

with death, should his demand be neglected. The 
natives, driven to desperation by these vexations, 
invoked all the towns of the Kachiqiiel nation to 
their aid, and soon collected a force of 30,000 
combatants ; a part of this host was detached to 
defend the mountains in the road from Petapa, 
by which they feared Pedro de Alvarado might 
return, while the main body suddenly fell upon 
the town of Guatemala, and taking the inhabitants 
by surprise, killed many, wounded many more, 
and put the rest to flight. After this defeat, the 
city was abandoned by the Spaniards, until the 
return of Alvarado, who, without loss of time, 
exerted himself to regain what they had been de- 
prived of, and to reduce the Kachiqueles once 
more to subjection ; this was not done without 
great trouble, and several severe contests : he at 
last vanquished them, after a very obstinate battle, 
and they then submitted. This victory was ob- 
tained on the 22d of November, St. Cecilia's day, 
for which reason the saint was declared patroness 
of the city, and the event has been commemo- 
rated ever since, by a grand procession of all the 
public authorities, with the royal standard carried 
in triumph through the streets. This year was 
also remarkable for several earthquakes, which 
Bernal Diaz del Castillo describes as being so 
violent, that men were unable to keep on their 
feet. 

In 1532, the vicinity of the city was ravaged, 
and the inhabitants thrown into consternation by 
a lion of uncommon magnitude and ferocity, that 
descended from the forests on the mountain called 
the Volcan de Agua, and committed great devas- 
tation among the herds of cattle. A reward of 



147 

25 gold dollars, or 100 bushels of wheat, was 
offered by the town council to any person that 
could kill it; but the animal escaped, even 
from a general hunting party of the whole city, 
with Alvarado at the head of it. After five or 
six months continual depredations he was killed 
on the 30th of July^ by a herdsman who received 
the promised reward. The next great disaster 
was a fire that happened in February 1536, and 
caused great injury ; as the houses were at that 
time nearly all thatched with straw, a large por- 
tion of them was destroyed before it could be ex- 
tinguished. The accident originated in a black- 
smith's shop, and to prevent similar misfortunes 
in future, the council prohibited the employment 
of forges within the city. 

The most dreadful calamity that had as yet 
afflicted this unfortunate place occurred on the 
morning of September 11th, 1541. It had rained 
incessantly, and with great violence, on the three 
preceding days, particularly on the night of the 
10th, when the water descended more like the 
torrent of a cataract than rain ; the fury of the 
wind, the incessant appalling lightning, and dread- 
ful thunder, were indescribable ; the general ter- 
ror was increased by eruptions from the vol- 
cano to such a degree, that in this combination 
of horrors the inhabitants imagined the final des- 
truction of the world was at hand. At 2 o'clock 
on the morning of the 11th, the vibrations of the 
earth were so violent, that the people were unable 
to stand ; the shocks were accompanied by a 
terrible subterranean noise w^hich spread universal 
dismay : shortly afterward, an immense torrent 
of water rushed down from the summit of the 

L 2 



148 

mountain, forcing away with it enoniioiis frag- 
ments of rocks and large trees; which descending 
upon the ill-fated town, overwhelmed and destroy- 
ed almost all the houses, and buried a great num- 
ber of the inhabitants under the ruins ; among 
the many, Doiia Beatrice de la Cueba, the widow 
of Pedro deAlvarado, lost her life. When day 
dawned on the 11th, those who had escaped un- 
hurt from this scourge, rendered all the assistance 
in their power to their less fortunate neighbours 
who were maimed or wounded ; they collected 
the bodies of the dead, and in the evening buried 
them with as much solemnity as circumstances 
admitted of. To perpetuate the remembrance 
of this day of calamity and horror, it was de- 
termined in council on the 9th of September, 
1542, to observe this 11th day of September every 
year as a solemn fast, with penitentiary proces- 
sions from Guatemala to Ciudad Vieja, in which 
all the civil and religious authorities were to take 
part: this ceremony continued to be observed for 
more than 20 years. 

The inhabitants, being dreadfully intimidated 
by the injuries the city had sustained from the vol- 
canoes, came to the resolution of removing from 
them ; and they fixed upon a spot about a league 
north-eastof Ciudad Vieja. Although they changed 
the situation of their town, they could not evade 
the calamities that awaited them. In 1558, an 
epidemic disorder, attended with a violent bleed- 
ing at the nose, swept away great numbers of 
people; nor could the faculty devise any me- 
thod to arrest the progress of the distemper. 
Many severe shocks of earthquake were felt at 
different periods; the one in 1565 seriously da- 



149 

maged many of the principal buildings; those of 
1575, 76, and 77, were not less ruinous. On the 
27th of Deceniber, 1581, the population was again 
alarmed by the volcano, which began to emit 
lire; and so great was the quantity of ashes 
thrown out and spread in the air, that the sun was 
entirely obscured, and artideial light was neces- 
sary in the city at mid-day. Processions were 
formed to implore the Divine intercession; peo- 
ple confessed themselves aloud in the streets, be- 
ing persuaded they were on the point of suffering 
some awful visitation of Providence. A norther- 
ly wind, however, at last relieved them from their 
fears, by dispersing the ashes towards the Pacific 
Ocean, and again allowing them to view the splen- 
dour of the sun. On the 14th of January, 1582, 
the mountain Yomited fire with great force for 24 
hours successively. 

The years 1585 and 0, were dreadful in the ex-^ 
treme. On January 16, of the former, earthquakes 
were felt, and they continued through that and 
the following year so frequently, that not an in- 
terval of eight days elapsed, during the whole 
period, without a shock more or less violent. 
Fire issued incessantly, for months together, from 
the mountain, and greatly increased the general 
consternation. The greatest damage of this series 
took place on the 23d December, 1586, when the 
major part of the city again became a heap of 
ruins, burying under them many of the unfortttr 
nate inhabitants ; the earth shook with such vio- 
lence, that the tops of the high ridges were torn 
off, and deep chasms formed in various parts of 
the level ground. 

In 1601, a pestilential distemper carried off 



150 

great numbers. It raged with so much malignity, 
that three days generally terminated the exist- 
ence of such as were affected by it. In 1607, fresh 
shocks of earthquakes were felt, causing great 
damage to several of the buildings, and killing 
many people. These terrible visitations did not 
return again until the year 1640. In 1620, a fiery 
meteor appeared, and filled the inhabitants with 
terror and dismay, from their ignorance of the 
nature of such phenomena ; similar appearances 
at the present day, as philosophy is better un- 
derstood, would only excite admiration. Me- 
teors of the same description appeared on the 14th 
April, 1649; the 23d March, 1680; the 20th Ja- 
nuary, 1681 ; in January, 1688 ; and on the^l8th 
of September, 1691. 

In the month of January, 1623, the volcano 
w as observed to be again in action ; it threw out 
much flame and thick smoke, accompanied by 
violent and loud reports, to the great terror of 
the inhabitants, but fortunately without injury. 

On the 18th of February, 1651, about 1 o'clock, 
afternoon, a most extraordinary subterranean 
noise was heard, and immediately followed by 
three violent shocks, at very short intervals from 
each other, which threw down many buildings, 
and damaged others; the tiles from the roofs of 
the houses were dispersed in all directions, like 
light straws by a gust of wind; the bells of the 
churches were rung by the vibrations ; masses of 
rock were detached from the mountains ; and 
even the wild beasts were so terrified, that, losing 
their natural instinct, they quitted their retreats, 
and sought shelter from the habitations of men. 
Among these, a lion of great size and fierceness 



151 

entered the city, on the soiithern side, and ad- 
vanced into the middle of it ; he tore down a 
paper fixed against one of the consistorial houses, 
and retreated by the streets on the north side. 
These shocks were repeated frequently, until the 
13th of April. 

Very few years passed in which this devoted 
place did not experience the horrors of these ex- 
terminating phenomena ; for, enumerating only 
such as caused serious damage since 1651, the 
worst were those in March, 1679; 22d July, 
1681; May, 1683; August, 1684; September 
and October, 1687; and the 12th of February, 
1689, which, a writer of that period asserts, was 
even more disastrous than the one in 1651, 

The year 1686 brought with it another dreadful 
epidemic, which, in three months, swept away a 
tenth part of the inhabitants. Some of them died 
suddenly ; others expired under the most acute 
pains of the head, breast, and bowels. No re- 
medy was discovered that could check its de^ 
structive progress, although many of the deceased' 
were opened, to endeavour, by that means, to 
come at the cause of the disorder. So great was 
the number of the infected, that there was not 
a sufficient number of priests to administer to 
them the religious rites. The bells were no longer 
tolled for the dead individually, and the corpses 
were buried, en masse, in a common grave. From 
the capital, the pestilence spread to the neigh- 
bouring villages, and thence to the more remote, 
ones; causing dreadful havoc, particularly among 
the most robust of the inhabitants.* 

* The author makes no mention of the manner in which this 
epidemy terminated ; but religious ingenuity was not tardy iii' 



152 

Pursuing this narrative of misfortunes, ihe next 
in succession happened on the 1st of February, 
1705; when the mountain again disgorged ashes 
and thick smoke in such abundance, that the sun 
was entirely obscured ; and the Guatemalecans, 
like the ancient Egyptians, were enveloped in im- 
penetrable darkness at noon-day, which continued 
for several hours. In 1710, a violent eruption of 
smoke and ignited stones took place ; but no se- 
rious injury was sustained. The year 1717 was me- 
morable; on the night of August 27th, the moun- 
tain began to emit flames, attended by a continued 
subterranean rumbling noise. On the night of the 
28th, the eruption increased to great violence, and 
very much alarmed the inhabitants. The images of 
saints were carried in procession, public prayers 
were put up, day after day; but the terrifying 
eruption still continued, and was followed by fre- 
quent shocks, at intervals, for more than four 
months. At last, on the night of September 29th, 
the fate of Guatemala appeared to be decided, 
and inevitable destruction seemed to be at hand. 
Great was the ruin among the public edifices; 
many of the houses were thrown down, and nearly 

producing a miracle to remove so dreadful a scourge, — the fol- 
lowing is the tradition. The inhabitants being grievously 
alarmed at the frightful havoc among them, resolved upon the 
expedient of addressing public prayers to the Virgin for her 
interference ; they carried the image that is worshipped in the 
village of Almolongo, thence to the church of Calvary, in the 
city, in solemn procession : the rogation continued three days ; 
on the last day, about two in the afternoon, the face of the sacred 
effigy was perceived to be in a profuse perspiration for a long 
time : this prodigy was immediately certified officially by a cou- 
ple of notaries who were present. In the evening the image was 
restored to the village with becoming solemnity, and from that 
day the pestilence ceased, no more persons were infected, and 
those who were sick recovered immediately. 



153 

^11 that remained were dreadfully injured; but 
the greatest devastation was seen in the churches. 
The inhabitants, from what they actually saw, 
and from what their terrors suggested to them, 
expected the total subversion of the place; and 
nearly all sought refuge in the villages adjacent. 
After this disaster, they solicited permission of 
the government to remove to any other spot that 
might be judged less exposed to the effects of the 
volcano ; but, by the time the council of the 
Indies transmitted a licence for the removal, they 
had recovered from the panic, returned to their 
dilapidated dwellings, had repaired a great part 
of tiie city, and no longer thought of making the 
transfer. 

In 1732, during the month of May, the volcano 
once more seemed to threaten fresh disasters, but 
nothing more than an eruption of flame, that con- 
tinued many days, then took place. In 1733, the 
city suffered very grievously from the small-pox, 
which, in one month, swept away 1500 persons. 
This misfortune was followed, in June, 1736, by 
a violent tenjpest, that threw down several houses, 
and many persons were buried under the ruins. 

On the 27th August, 1737, the mountain was 
again in commotion, and discharged flames and 
smoke for some days successively ; numerous 
small craters, that emitted both fire and smoke, 
opened on the sides of it; and, on the 24th of 
September, smart shocks of earthquake took 
place, but fortunately without causing injury. 
On Sept. 21, 1749, another violent tempest be- 
gan, and continued for three days; it was at- 
tended with an incessant heavy rain, the torrents 
of water that descended from the surrounding 



154 

mountains caused much damage in the villages 
on the plain below. On the 4th of March, 1751, 
two very severe shocks were felt; the first about 
8 o'clock in the morning, and the other at 2 in 
the afternoon : much injury was done by them,- 
chiefly to the churches. 

On the 8th of Oct. 1762, a heavy rain began^ 
and lasted until the morning of the 9th ; by which 
the rivers were so increased, that great part of 
the country was inundated : on this occasion the 
large village of Petapa was destroyed, and the 
division of the city called the Barrio de los Re- 
medies was laid under water. 

The year 1773 was the most melancholy epoch 
in the annals of this metropolis ; it was then de- 
stroyed, and, as the capital, rose no more from its 
ruins. Since the year 1751, there had been no^ 
considerable misfortune sustained ; for although, 
in 1757, there had been the shock, distinguished 
by the natives as the earthquake of St. Francis ; 
and, in 1765, that of the Holy Trinity, which 
spread devastation over the province of Chiqui- 
mula ; and afterward, that denominated St. Ra- 
phael's, which grievously devastated the province 
of Suchiltepeques ; yet neither of these extended 
to the capital with sufficient violence to cause any 
extraordinary damage. In the month of May, 
some few slight shocks were perceived ; and, on 
the 11th of June, a very violent one took place. 
Its duration was considerable ; many houses, and 
several churches, were much injured ; during the 
whole of the night the shocks were repeated at 
short intervals, and, for some days afterward, 
with less frequency. About 4 o'clock, on the after- 
noon of July 29, a tremendous vibration was felt, 



155 

and shortly after began the dreadful convulsion 
that decided the fate of the unfortunate city. It 
is difficult, even for those who v\^ere witnesses of 
this terrible catastrophe, to describe its duration, 
or the variety of its undulation, so entirely did ter- 
ror, and the apprehension of immediate annihila- 
tion, absorb all powers of reflection. For several 
days these shocks continued, and sometimes in 
such quick succession, that many took place in 
the short space of 15 minutes. On the 7th Sept. 
there was another, which threw down most of 
the buildings that were damaged on the 29th of 
July ; and, on the 13th Dec, one still more vio- 
lent terminated the work of destruction. To this 
memorable calamity succeeded a schism among 
the inhabitants, that caused many disagreeable 
dissensions ; two parties were formed, the one, 
terrified by the recent chastisement of Providence, 
and bearing in mind the miseries that had been 
so often endured from similar visitations, was de- 
sirous of establishing the city anew, in a situation 
farther away from the mountain, and less exposed 
to such troubles. The other, arguing from con- 
stant experience, that there was scarcely a dis- 
trict throughout the kingdom which was not, at 
times, subject to the same inconvenience, con- 
tended that it would be better to rebuild the city 
on its present site, than to abandon the delightful 
climate, the fertile soil, excellent water, and the 
thousand other advantages they enjoyed in it; 
and that the very ruins of their former dwellings 
would furnish part of the' materials for recon- 
structing them. The people had not well re- 
covered from the consternation inflicted by the 
events of the fatal 29th of July, when a meeting 



156 

was convoked, for the purpose of collecting the 
sense of the inhabitants on the subject of the re- 
moval. This assembly took place on the 4th of 
August, the governor presided, and it was at- 
tended by the archbishop, and all the persons of 
consequence who remained on the spot. In this 
meeting it was determined all the public autho- 
rities should remove, provisionally, to the little 
village of La Hermita, until the valleys of Ja- 
lapa and Las Vacas could be surveyed, and 
until the king's pleasure could be ascertained on 
the subject. A member of the audiencia, 2 pre- 
bends of the cathedral, a regidor, and one of the 
principal inhabitants, were deputed to examine 
the two valleys. On the 6th of September, the 
governor and all the tribunals withdrew to La 
Hermita ; the surveys of the just mentioned places 
being completed, the inhabitants were again con- 
voked, to decide upon the transfer. This con- 
gress was held in the temporary capital, and 
lasted from the 12th until the 16th of Jan. 1774: 
the report of the commissioners was read, and, 
by a plurality of votes, it was resolved to make a 
formal translation of the city of Guatemala to the 
valley of Las Vacas. The king gave his assent 
to this resolution on the 21st July, 1775; and, by 
a decree of the 21st of Sept. following, approved 
most of the plans that were proposed for carrying 
the determination into effect; granting very libe- 
rally the whole revenue arising from the customs, 
for the space of 10 years, towards the charges of 
building, &c. In virtue of this decree, the ayun- 
tamiento was in due form established in the new 
situation on the 1st Jan. 1776; and, on the 29th 
of July, 1777, a proclamation was issued in Old 



157 

Guatemala, comiiiaiiding the population to re- 
move to the new city within one year, and totally 
abandon the remains of the oh! one. 

The fatal results of the last calamity still af^ 
flicted the wretched population ; a petechial fever 
soon shewed itself, and raged until the month of 
May, 1774, before it could be subdued, making 
a horrible increase to the already lengthened list 
of mortahty. The major part of the inhabitants 
settled in the new city, but, by a change of soil, 
they could not evade the penalty of misfortune, 
suffering, and tribulation, inflicted upon the hu- 
man race: these followed them to their new do- 
micile, where they experienced severe injury, and 
much distress, from dreadful storms of rain and 
hail, in which many persons were killed by light- 
ning. Since the ruin of Old Guatemala, the 
greatest suffering of the new city was from the 
small-pox, in 1780, which extended nearly all 
over the kingdom : this distemper was of so ma- 
lignant a character, that in a few days great num- 
bers fell victims to it. That the infected might 
not die without the administration of the usual 
sacraments, the viaticum was carried from all 
the parish churches, and also from those of the 
regular religious orders. The defunct were not 
permitted to be interred in the churches, both on 
account of numbers, and because serious injury 
might be done to the survivors, from the decom- 
position of bodies in a state of such virulent con- 
tagion ; three cemeteries without the city were, 
therefore, consecrated for their sepulture. The 
zealous devotion of the ayuntamiento, on this 
melancholy occasion, was honourable in the ex- 
treme; every effort was made to give assistance 



158 

to the poor, a regidor took charge of each quarter 
of the city, and one was always in attendance at 
the hospital, established out of it, for the recep- 
tion of the variolus patients. Inoculation was 
now, for the first time, practised in Guatemala, 
with the most complete success; for although so 
many perished of the contagion, scarcely one of 
those who were inoculated died. 



TREATISE THE SECOND. 



INTRODUCTION. 



It hasbeen mentioned, in the introductory chap- 
ter to the first part of this work, that the author's 
intention was to faciHtate the progress of any 
other person who might determine to write the 
history of the country, by furnishing materials for 
such an undertaking : for this purpose, it ap- 
peared to him that the geographical description 
of the kingdom, and the chronology of the city of 
Guatemala, would be sufficient ; but reflecting 
afterward how intimately the history of the ca- 
pital must be connected with that of the different 
provinces, he determined upon giving an outline 
of the general history of the kingdom. In the 
geography many points of the history of parti- 
cular places have been given, but only en passant ; 
and, consequently, without the detail necessary 
to a more general treatise. It must, however, be 
here observed, that this attempt is not made 
without a due conviction of its terminating with 
several imperfections; for although there is abun- 
dant matter for the history of some provinces, yet 
of the others but scanty information has been yet 
obtained. In continuing this part of the work, 
the same order will be observed as was pursued 
in the former, viz. the kingdom of Guatemala 
will be, in the first place, treated of generally ; 
secondly, the provinces of the southern part; 



160 

thirdly, those in the north ; and, in condusion, 
those in the middle. As the general history of 
the Indies was not, for reasons already assigned, 
resorted to for information in the preceding part ; 
it has not been consulted in what the following 
sheets present to the public, except in cases where 
other documents and accounts of the kingdom are 
entirely silent. Recourse has been had to the 
work of Francisco Antonio de Fuentes y Guz- 
man, regidor of the ayuntamiento of Guatemala, 
an historian generally esteemed for correctness in 
whatever he introduces; and we are assured by 
himself, that in writing, he had the satisfaction of 
having before him all the books, records, and 
other papers in the secret archives of the city, that 
could in any way assist his researches. Besides 
this history, information has been extracted from 
the manuscripts of Gonzalo de Alvarado, and 
Bernal Diaz del Castillo ; the histories compiled 
by caciques of the Pipil, Quiche, Kachiquel, 
and Pocoman Indians, who having been taught 
to write by the Spaniards, communicated many 
historical fragments, which had been transmitted 
to them by their ancestors. To this may be 
added, that when Guzman was in the province of 
Gueguetenango,of w^hich he wascorregidor,he had 
opportunities of verifying many points of its his- 
tory : he went from place to place, for the express 
purpose of examining particular curiosities, and 
ascertaining any interesting facts or circum- 
stances : he had also an opportunity of seeing, 
and having explained to him, many of the paint- 
ings, used by the Indians instead of books as re- 
cords of their history. For these reasons, the 
author does not hesitate to claim full confidence 



- 161 

in the authenticity of what he introduces from 
this interesting historian. The third part of Guz- 
man's work has, indeed, disappeared, and the 
most active researches made to discover it have 
hitherto proved unavailing : this is to be the 
more regretted, as it leaves an hiatus in the his- 
tory, that there are no possible means of filling 
up, even by applying to the general history of the 
Indies. 



CHAP. I. 

Of the Estahlishment of the Monarchy of Guate- 
mala, and of the Kings who governed it, at the 
Arrival of the Spaniards, 

It is not intended to undertake, in this place, the 
discussion of a subject that has already exhausted 
abilities of the first order, viz. the original popula- 
tion of America ; from a conviction, that when the 
Tultecan Indians, from whom the Quiche and Ka- 
chiquel kings descended, first came into this re- 
gion, they found it already inhabited by people of 
different nations ; and when these same Tultecas 
entered into the kingdom of Mexico, they dis- 
covered that the Chichimecas had previously got 
possession of it. This conviction is founded upon 
the assumption, that if all the inhabitants of this 
kingdom did derive their origin from the Tul- 
tecas, they would doubtless have spoken the 
same language ; but as there are so many different 
tongues used by the natives of it, the opinion in 
favour of a common origin is untenable. Coming, 
therefore, to the subject of the present chapter, it 
appears from the manuscripts of Don Juan Torres, 

M 



the son, and Don Juan Macario, the grandson, of 
the King Chignaviucelut, and of Don Francisco 
Gomez, the first Ahzib Kiche,* that the Tuitecas 
were descended from the house of Israel, and 
were released by Moses from the captivity in 
which Pharaoh held them. Having passed the 
Red Sea, they resigned tliemselves to the practice 
of idolatry, and persisted therein, in spite of the 
admonitions of Moses; but to avoid his reproofs, 
or from the fear of his inflicting some chastise- 
menty they chose to separate from him and his 
brethren, and to retire from that part of the 
country to a place which they called the Seven 
Caverns; that is, from the borders of the Red 
Sea, to what now is a part of the kingdom of 
Mexico, where they founded the celebrated city 
of Tula. 

The chief who commanded, and conducted this 
multitude from one continent to the other, was^ 
Tanub, the stock from which sprung the families 
of the kings of Tula and Quiche, and the first 
monarch of the Tultecas. The second was Ca- 
pichoch ; the third, Calel Ahus ; the fourth. Ah- 
pop ; and the fifth, Niniaquich6,who being more be- 
loved than any of hi& predecessors, was directed 
by an oracle to leave Tula with the people, who 
had by this time multiplied greatly, and conduct 
them from the kingdom of Mexico to that of 
Guatemala. In performing this journey they ex- 
pended many years, suffered extraordinary hard- 
ships, and wandered over an immense tract of 

* This manuscript was possessed by the descendants of Juan 
de Leon Cardona, appointed by Pedro de Aivarado, lieutenant 
of the caplain-general over the country of the Quiches. Fuentes 
assures us, that he obtained it by means of Father Francis Yas^ 
q,uez, the historian of the order of St. Francis. 



165 

country, until they discovered a large lake (the 
lake of Atitan)j and resolved to fix their habita- 
tions in a convenient place at a short distance 
from it, which they called Quiche, in commemo- 
ration of their king Nimaquiche,* who died dur- 
ing their peregrination. 

Nimaquiche was accompanied by his three bro- 
thers, and it was agreed, that they should divide 
the country between them ; one was to have for his 
share the province of the Quelenes and Chapa- 
necos ; another, Tezulutlan, or Verapaz; the third 
to become chief of the Mames and Pocomanes ; 
and Nimaquiche of the Quiches, Kachiquels, and 
Zutugiles ; the latter dying, was succeeded by his 
son Acxopil, who was at the head of his nation 
when they settled in Quiche, and the first mo- 
narch who reigned in Utatlan. This prince, see- 
ing that the monarchy soon rose to a high degree 
of splendour, for its better government, and to re- 
lieve himself from some of the fatigues of admini- 
stration, appointed 13 captains or governors. The 
manuscripts before mentioned add, that Acxopil, 
having attained a very advanced age, determined 
upon dividing the empire into three kingdoms ; 
namely^ the Quiche, the Kachiquel, and the Zu- 
tugil : the first he retained for himself; the second 
he gave to his eldest son, Jiutemal; and the third 
to his youngest son, Acxiquat : this division was 
made on a day marked by the extraordinary cir- 
cumstance of three suns being visible at the same 
time, an incident that has induced some persons 
to think the partition was effected on the day of 



* In the Quich6 language Ninia means great; Nimaquiche, 
therefore, signifies Great Qiiich6. 

M 2 



164 

our Saviour's birth, as it is commonly asserted 
such a phenomenon then occurred ; but as a par- 
helion is a meteor which has been so frequently 
observed, this does not appear to be sufficient 
authority for fixing the division to that particular 
day. The Tultecan emperors who reigned in 
Utatlan, the capital of Quiche, whose names have 
reached posterity, were the following 17: 

1 Acxopil, 7 Iquibalam, 13 Kicab TV, 

2 Jiutemal, 8 Kicab I, 14 Kicab Tanub, 

3 Hunahpu, 9 Cacubraxechein, 15 Tecum Umam, 

4 Balara Kich6, 10 Kicab II, 16 Cliignaviiicelut, 

5 Balam Acan, 11 Iximche, 17 Sequechn!, or 

6 Maucdtah, 12 Kicab III, Sequechil. 

Of these the most distinguished was Acxopil, who 
led his nation into this country, established in it the 
empire of Quiche, and divided itinto three domains. 
Jiutemal, who, before he succeeded his father 
on the throne of Utatlan, was first king of the 
Kachiquels, by which he was rendered next in 
dignity to the monarch of Quiche.* Hunahpu 
rendered himself celebrated by discovering the 
use of cocoa and cotton. Nothing remarkable 
was performed by any of the others, until the 
time of Tecum Umam, who occupied the throne 
when the Spaniards arrived, and bravely resisted 
their progress, until he fell by the hand of Pedro 
de Alvarado. After the death of this prince, 

* These Indians distinguished the degrees of sovereignty 
among their kings, by the throne itself; that cf Utatlan, which 
was the first in rank, was placed under four canopies, formed 
of feathers, each of different colours, and of diiferent sizes, 
fixed one within the other; the throne of Kachiquel, or Gua- 
temala, had three canopies; and that of Atitan, or Zutugii, had 
but two. 



165 

Aivarado placed his eldest son, Chignaviucelut, 
on the throne of Utatlan, but having cause to 
suspect him of treason, he ordered him to be 
hanged, a very short time after he had placed the 
crown upon his head. Sequechul succeeded 
him, and reigned two years; but, unable to brook 
the disgrace of seeing himself reduced to a mere 
vassal of the Spaniards, he revolted in the year 
1526; his success was of short duration, and be- 
hig vanquished^ he remained a prisoner during 
the remainder of his life. 

The manuscript of Juan Torres before noticed, 
and another of Francisco Garcia Calel Tzutnpan 
Xavila, a descendant from the kings of Quiche, 
written in 1544, relate that 13 armies left the old 
continent, headed by as many principal families, 
who were all related to each other, but five of 
them much more illustrious than the rest; these 
were the families of Capichoch, Cochohlam, Mah- 
quinalo, Ahcanail, and Belehebcam. From Ca- 
pichoch, the trunk of the genealogical tree of the 
family of Niraaquiche, all the royal progeny of 
the Indians of this kingdom derive their origin, 
and these princes of the blood royal are called 
Caciques. The Ahaos are the heads of noble li- 
neages, descendants of the grandees who were 
the immediate attendants upon the kings. From 
the Ahaos are derived the Cal pules, who com- 
pose the nobility of the villages Quezaltenango, 
Totonicapan, Iztaguacan, Ostuncalco, Zapotit- 
lan, and others. As the princes, or heads of fa- 
milies, were very nearly related to each other, it is 
clear, that as the emperors of Mexico were de- 
scendants of Belehebcan, relative of Copichoh, 
the original stock from whom the monarchs of 



166 

Quiche sprung, the kings of both countries are of 
the same race. It appears, too, that these princes 
acknowledged the relationship, and maintained a 
communication with each other ; for it is related, 
in a manuscript of 16 quarto folios, which is 
preserved by the Indians of the village of St. An- 
dres Xecul, in page 4, that when Moctezuma 
was made prisoner, he sent a private ambassa- 
dor to Kicab Tanub, king of Quiche, to inform 
him some white men had arrived in his states, 
and made war upon him with such impetuosi- 
ty, that the whole strength of his people was 
unable to resist them ; that he was himself a 
prisoner surrounded by guards ; and hearing it 
was the intention of his invaders to pass on to 
the kingdom of Quiche, and subdue it, he re- 
solved to send notice of the design, in order that 
Kicab Tanub might be prepared to oppose them. 
This is a strong proof of a good understanding 
having subsisted between the two kings ; for if 
Moctezuma, watched as he was by his keepers, 
could contrive to dispatch this messenger secretly 
to Kicab, there is no doubt but frequent inter- 
course took place between them in the time of 
peace and tranquillity. In pages 5 and 6 of the 
manuscript, it is said, that as soon as the king of 
Quiche received this intelligence, he sent for four 
young diviners, whom he ordered to tell him what 
would be the result of the invasion ; these per- 
sons requested time to give their answer, and, 
taking their bows, they discharged some arrows 
against a rock, but seeing that no impression was 
left upon it; they returned very sorrowfully, and 
told the king there was no means of avoiding the 
disaster, for the white men would certainly con- 



167 

qiier them. Kicab, not well satisfied with the 
reply, sent for the priests, and desired to have 
their opinions on this eventful subject ; with great 
lamentations, they delivered a similar prognostic 
of disaster to their monarch, founding their con- 
clusion upon the ominous circumstance of a cer- 
tain stone, which had been brought by their fore- 
fathers from Egypt, and which was worshipped as 
a god, having suddenly split in two ; an incident 
that portended the inevitable ruin of their empire. 
Kicab, however, still incredulous, and not intimi- 
dated, immediately began to make the best mili- 
tary dispositions in his power, for a resolute de- 
fence of his dominions ; but in the midst of his 
preparations, death put an end to his career. The 
principal Indians, who came with the Spaniards 
from Mexico and Tlascala^ persuaded of the iden- 
tity of their own origin and that of the people of 
this country, declared themselves relations and 
friends, formed more intimate connexions by in- 
termarriages with the Quiches, and gave them a 
copy of the instrument by which they had re- 
ceived from the Emperor Charles the Fifth the 
honour of a coat of arms, for the great services 
they had rendered to the Spanish army in the con- 
quest of New Spain. 



CHAP. 11. 

Some Account of the Quiches before the Arrival of 
the Spaniards. 

In the preceding chapter it has been mentioned, 
that the Tulteca Indians came from the kingdom 
of Mexico to Guatemala, under the command of 
their king, Nimaquiche ; this prince having re- 



168 

signed to his brother the dominion over the Main 
and Pocoman nations, died soon afterward ; his 
son, Acxopil, assumed the chief authority, and 
completely established the whole of his nation in 
Quiche. Either from the extraordinary multi- 
plication of his own subjects, or from having sub- 
dued the people who previously inhabited these 
regions, in a very short time he found himself 
master of the territories which at present form the 
provinces of Solola, Chimaltenango^ Sacatepe- 
ques, and part of those of Quezaltenango and 
Totonicapan. When Acxopil had reached an 
advanced age, he found his empire so much ex- 
tended, that the government of it became too la- 
borious for his exhausted strength and weakened 
faculties ; he therefore subdivided it into the 
three lordships of Quiche, Kachiquel, and Zutu- 
gil : the first he reserved for himself; the second 
he gave to his eldest son, Jiutemal ; and the last 
to his second son, Acxiquat. In this manner, the 
territory, now comprised in the aforementioned 
provinces, wasdivided into the four distinct govern- 
ments of Quiche, Kachiquel, Zutugil, and Mam. 
Quiche then comprehended the present dis- 
tricts of Quiche, Totonicapan, part of Quezalte- 
nango, and the village of Rabinal ; in all these 
places the Quiche language is spoken. For this 
reason, it may be inferred with much probability,' 
that the greater part of the province of Sapo- 
titlan, or Suchiltepeques, was a colony of the 
Quichees, as the same idiom is made nse of nearly 
throughout the whole of it : to this may be added, 
as it clearly appears from the manuscripts of 
these Indians, that Hunahpu, the third king of 
Quiche, first discovered the use of cocoa and 



169 

cotton, both productions of a warm climate, con- 
sequently not growing in Quiche, which is very 
cold ; it therefore seems extremely credible, that 
this prince sent some people from his own domi- 
nions to cultivate these plants in the province of 
Suchiltepeques. 

The territory of the Kachiqueles was composed 
of that which now forms the provinces of Chi- 
maltenango and Sacatepeques, and the district 
of Solola; and as the Kachiquel language is also 
spoken in the villages of Patulul, Cotzumalgua- 
pan, and others along the same coast, it is a plau- 
sible supposition that they were colonies settled 
by the Kachiquels, for the purpose of cultivating 
the desirable productions of a warmer climate than 
their own. The dominion of the Zutugiles extend- 
ed over the modern district of Atitan, and the vil- 
lage of St. Antonio, Suchiltepeques, where theZu- 
tugil idiom is spoken, and in which, most proba- 
bly, were the cocoa plantations of these Indians. 
The Mams occupied the existing district of Giie- 
gUetenango, a part of QuezaUenango, and the 
province of Soconusco, and in all these places 
the Mam or Pocoman language is vernacular. 
It is a circumstance not a little remarkable, that 
this idiom is also peculiar to places very distant 
from the country of the Mams: viz. in Amatitan, 
Mixco, and Petapa, in the province of Sacatepe- 
ques; Chalchuapa, in St. Salvador; Mita, Ja- 
lapa, and Xilotepeque, in Chiqnimula. 

It happened, in the extensive territory thus par- 
titioned, and it has been an almost every day oc- 
currence in the world, that kings and governors, 
how vast soever their own dominions, have been 
ambitious of enlarging them at the expense of 



170 

their immediate neighbours, that Acxiquat, king 
of the Zutugiles, iindiog his states much too 
small for his inordinate desires, felt an inclination 
to extend his boundaries, by curtailing those of 
his brother Jiutema!. With this design, he as- 
sembled a large army, well equipped, and having 
supplied it abundantly with provisions, he took 
the command in person, and advanced to the con- 
fines of the kingdom of Kachiquel; his farther 
progress being stopped by the brave generals 
whom Jiutemal had stationed on his frontiers^ he 
thought it advisable to halt on the plains of Se- 
metabax ; in this position he continued until he 
obtained intelligence that Jiutemal was coming 
against him with a very powerful body of men ; 
he then retreated to Atitan, and shut himself up 
in the strong fortress of the Rock, which served 
him both as a place of arms, and as a frontier 
barrier, it being nearly circumvallated by the lake. 
Notwithstanding Acxiquat had so strongly forti- 
fied himself, Jiutemal, feeling highly incensed at 
being thus provoked by his younger brother, and 
having under his command a body of veteran 
troops, familiar with the art of war, and eager to 
signalize themselves in the presence of their sove- 
reign, he determined to enter the states of his 
rival; dividing his force into several corps, he 
made a simultaneous attack on various points, 
with so much success, that he was able to occupy 
a great part of the borders of the lake. The 
Kachiquels being without canoes to cross the 
lake, were unable to attack the rock fortress ; 
but, high in spirits, they left no means untried that 
were likely to insure the victory, and from their 
various sallies, the army of Acxiquat suffered 



171 

very severely ; but these reverses, and even greater 
which followed, were unable to repress the daring 
spirit of that prince, who collected another army 
to oppose Jiutemal, and prolonged the war for 
some time, occasioning a dreadful waste of lives, 
until the mediation of their venerable father, 
Acxopil, put an end to the contest. Jiutemal 
shrewdly appreciating the ambitious disposition 
of Acxiquat, industriously availed himself of this 
season of peace, to prepare against future hostili- 
ties, and strengthened the frontiers of his king- 
dom by garrisons, to protect the centre from any 
sudden irruptions. With this view he constructed 
a place of arms in Tecpanguatemala, by which 
fortress, and several other intrenchments and de- 
fences, he left his kingdom well protected to his 
eldest son. Jiutemal became regent of the em- 
pire of Quich6, being associated with his father, 
Acxopil, in the government, upon whose death he 
succeeded to the sovereignty. Elevated to the 
supreme authority over the empire of Utatlan, he 
did not feel himself secure, at all confident in 
the good conduct of his brother, or even without 
suspicions of his own son, now raised to the royal 
dignity of Guatemala, or of the Kachiquels ; 
therefore, the first acts of his reign had for their 
object, the fortification and better security of 
his kingdom ; he constructed in his capital two 
strong castles, the Resguardo and Atalaya, al- 
ready described in the geographical part of this 
work, besides several others in different parts of 
the kingdom. About this time, also, were built 
the famous fortresses in the great chain of Par- 
raxquin (a word in the Quiche language meaning 
a green mountain, a name given to it, from its 



172 

being continually covered witli verdure). This 
long ridge formed a natural bulwark to the king^- 
dom of Quiche; and in such places where a pas- 
sage might be effected bj^ an enemj^ castles were 
erected, to throw every possible impediment in 
the way of an invader; one of these strong posts 
was built in the place called Xetinamit, to protect 
a very handsome palace belonging to the kings of 
Utatlan. Another castle, of which the foundation 
was discovered on the summit of Christali, was 
built in that situation to repress any invasion of 
the Mams ; and a third on the top of a very high 
mountain, that may be discovered from the road 
of St. Andres» for the purpose of keeping in check 
the people of Zulugil. 

Jiutemal was not deceived in his conjectures ; 
for Acxopil had no sooner paid the debt of nature, 
than Acxiquat resumed hostilities. The posses- 
sion of the Lake A titan was the object of this 
war ; the old king Acxopil had divided it between 
the three kingdoms, Quiche, Kachiquel, and Zu^ 
tugil; but the sovereign of the latter, either from a 
desire of repairing the losses of his former cam- 
paign, or with the intention of enlarging his domi- 
nions by making himself master of the whole lake, 
took up arms, and beg^n a destructive war that 
lasted all the reign of Jiutemal, and part of that 
of his son Hunahpu. The forces of the king of 
Quiche being greatly superior to that of Atitlan, 
Hunahpu, after many hard contested battles, ob- 
tained complete possession of the lake. Subse- 
quent to these victories, it is not know^n that any 
other military operations were carried on during 
the reign of Hunahpu, or of his successor Ba- 
1am Kiclie. 



17; 



CHAP. III. 

Continuation of the Misiory of the TuUecas, Ab- 
duction of the Princesses (f Quiche. 

On the demise of Balam Kiclie, Balam Acan as- 
cended the throne of Quiche. This prince, who 
was of a kind and gentle disposition, lived on 
terms of great intimacy and confidence with his 
cousin Ziitngilebpop, king of the Zutugiles ; but 
the latter abusing the generosity of Balam Acan, 
seduced his daughter Ixcunsocil, and carried her 
away from the palace of Utatlan. lloacab, the near 
relation and favourite of Zutugilebpop, imitated 
his conduct in this respect, and carried away 
Ecselixpua, the niece of the king of Quiche. 
These incidents are related in the snanuscripts of 
Don Juan Macario, Francisco Garcia Calel Tzum- 
pan, and Francisco Gomez Ahzib. The con- 
fusion in the king's court was indescribable, as 
soon as the princesses were missed ; Balam Acan 
was greatly enraged at the indignity offered to 
his family, and losing for a time the usual mild- 
ness of his nature, caused several of the persons 
about his household to be put to death in dread- 
ful torments; and so great was the agitation of 
his mind, that a violent illness succeeded. Im- 
mediately after his recovery, he assembled the 
principal caciques, ahaos, and counseliors of his 
kingdom, communicated to tsiem the affront he 
had received from Zutugilebpop, and required 
their assistance in taking a revenge, commensu- 
rate to the offence given. They all expressed 
their readiness to take arms to ol^tain redress, 



174 

and with the greatest celerity made preparations 
for a campaign ; a long and obstinate war ensued, 
and lasted through the reigns of several succeed- 
ing monarchs, both of Quiche and A titan. In 
.fact, from the period of the first partition of the 
empire until the arrival of the Spaniards, from 
one cause or another, these two kingdoms were, 
with the exception of a very few short intervals, 
continually in a state of hostihty. When the 
operations of the war commenced, the fertile fields 
of Quich6 groaned beneath the tread of 80,000 
veteran soldiers, well armed and provided with 
warlike stores ; that division which directed its 
march towards the frontiers of Atitan, under the 
general Maucotah, had in the centre squadron 
Balam A can himself, adorned with three dia- 
dems, and other regal ornaments, carried in a rich 
chair of state, splendidly ornamented with gold, 
emeralds, and other precious stones, upon the 
shoulders of the nobles of his court. The prepa- 
rations of the king of Utatlan did not escape the 
observation of Zutugilebpop, who knowing the 
great superiority of his antagonist's forces over 
his own, immediately sent embassies not only to 
the caciques subject to his jurisdiction, but to 
those of Zapotitlan and Soconusco, to solicit 
their assistance ; these, however, excused them- 
selves from giving the required aid, alleging as 
a reason for the refusal, the war then pending 
between them and their neighbouring nations ; 
but the Pipiles, who had no such preventative, 
entered into his quarrel with great earnestness. 
As Balam Acan had the option of various points 
by which he could make an irruption into the ter- 
ritories of his rival, the latter stationed himself in 



175 

his capital with a force of 60,000 men, deter- 
mined to direct his plans according to the move- 
ments of his enemy's army. The Quich6 gene- 
ral Maucotah attacked the strong post of Polopo, 
which was defended by lopincabe and a gar- 
rison of 4000 strong ; but this chief and 500 of 
his men being slain in the first assault, the Quiches 
soon compelled the remainder to surrender. They 
soon after reduced the populous city of Chicochin, 
though not without sustaining a great loss of men. 
Balam Acan placed a garrison of 5000 men in this 
city ; and ordered Maucotah to direct his march 
against Atitan, at the head of 30,000 men, intend- 
ing to follow this detachment with a body of 60,000 
combatants. Ziitugilebpop observing the dread- 
ful havoc made by the enetny's troops, resolved 
to try the event of a battle ; he therefore advanced 
to the encounter with 60,000 men commanded by 
Iloacab, his chief general, and accomplice in car- 
rying off the princesses. A contest so desperate 
and bloody never before happened in this country: 
the field of battle was so deeply inundated with 
blood, that not a blade of grass could be seen ; 
and such was the unyielding courage on both sides, 
that the chance of victory was long undecided : 
Iloacab being at length killed by an arrow, the 
bravery of the] Zutugiles seemed to be lost with 
their leader, an irresistible panic ensued, and they 
gave way immediately, leaving Balam Acan 
master of the field of carnage. Thus fell Iloacab, 
a prince, who, had he not soiled the purity of his 
character by the act before narrated, appeared 
worthy of a crown ; he possessed good quali- 
ties and endowments that adorned his elevated 
station ; he was highly esteemed by the peo- 



176 

ple^ and in all probability would have continued 
to rise in their estimation, had his life been pro- 
Ion ■>;ed. 

This victory did not terminate the campaign • 
Balani Acan divided his forces, and retaining 
under his personal command a body of 50,000 
veterans, he placed two others of 30,000 each 
under the orders of Maacotah and Atzihuinac. 
Zutngilebpop also commanded his army in per- 
son ; it consisted of 40,000 warriors, and his auxili- 
aries amounting to 20,000 more, he placed under 
the direction of the cacique Rosche. The fortunes 
of the war were various, and victory alternately 
favoured each party. In one action, the king of 
Atitan was compelled to retreat; but in another, 
the Pipiles de^esiied and killed Atzihuinac and 
.300 of his followers. The principal object of Ba- 
1am Acan was to attack the capital of Zutugileb- 
pop, and recover, if possible, the two princesses ; 
he therefore directed his march towards that 
city, with his whole army, which was now rein- 
forced by the auxiliaries sent by the chief of Te- 
zulutlan (now^ Verapaz), under the command of 
the general Chuatza, and amounted altogether to 
120,000 men. The king of x4titlan also, reinforced 
by the Mam Indians, advanced to meethim, with 
90,000 men. As soon as the two arniies came in 
sight of each other, the signal of attack was given, 
and both parties closed with snch fury, that, at 
the first shock, the number killed on each side 
was so great, that their bodies impeded the move- 
ments of those who escaped the slaughter. The 
battle was only terminated by the night, and each 
army remained on tiie field. 

Under cover of the darkness, Zutugilebpop 



177 

quitted his position, and two days subsequent 
appearing unexpectedly before Polopo and Toli- 
man, recovered both these places ; and immedi- 
ately afterward returned to the plains of Atitlan. 
Balam Acan pursued with his troops, and came 
up with a body of Zutugiles, commanded by 
the cacique Chichiactulu : he attacked them, and 
another obstinate battle ensued, rather to the dis- 
advantage of Chichiactulu. Zutugilebpop quick- 
ly advanced to the support of his general, at- 
tacked the Quiches in front, flanks, and rear, 
at the same time, with great impetuosity, and en- 
deavoured to break their lines; but, after an hour 
and a half of determined fighting, he was unable 
to prevail over their steady valour. The Zutu- 
giles closed with them on all sides ; yet the Qui- 
ches, aided by the Kachiquels, were undismay- 
ed, and maintained their resistance with desperate 
valour. Balam Acan, intrepid and indefatigable, 
was conveyed to every part of his army, and en- 
couraged the troops by his animation and enthu- 
siasm. At this time, Zutugilebpop, with a chosen 
body of 10,000 lancers, attacked the enemy in 
flank, and forced them to give ground. At this 
crisis, the bearers of Balam Acan, who were 
hastening with him to the thickest of the fight, 
lost their footing, and precipitated him to the 
earth ; when he was instantly overpowered by the 
Zutugiles, and slain. Juan Macario asserts, that 
in this action not less than 14,000 Indians were 
left dead on the field. Balam Acan, in the opinion 
of the historians of his race, was deserving of a 
better fate ; and had his life been longer, it would 
have been beneficial to his subjects. His under- 
standing was of the first order; his mind capa- 

N 



178 

cious and well stored ; his disposition noble, 
generous, and merciful ; and he was one of the 
bravest and most prudent generals of his time. 
He estimated the sacredness of his person rather 
too highly, and his delicacy in the point of ho- 
nour was a little overstrained ; for, in fact, when 
strictly considered, the offence of Zutugilebpop 
did not cast a scandal upon his family, that could 
reasonably have called forth such implacable en- 
mity : had he carried off the princesses to abuse, 
and then abandon them, the atiimosity of his oppo- 
nent would have been unimpeachable; but when 
one of them became the partner of the throne 
of Atitlan, and the other was married to a mem- 
ber of the royal family, the imprudence of the 
transaction might perhaps have been pardoned, 
without any compromise of family honour. As 
it was, this keen feeling of honour in the monarch 
gave rise to a war that involved the whole country 
in its horrors for many years ; for all the chieftains 
took a part in it, some as principal belligerents, 
and others as auxiliaries. The king of Quiche 
had on his side the kings of Guatemala and 
Tezulutlan ; the monarch of Zutugil was assist- 
ed by the Pipiles and the Mams. Hence origin 
nated many other contests ; the principals making 
war against the auxiliaries, and these one against 
the others. That which broke out between the 
Kachiquels and the Pipiles, was obstinate and 
destructive, and did not terminate until the reign 
of Nimahuinac, king of Guatemala, who obtaining 
decisive advantages over the Pipiles, forced To- 
naltut, their chief, to sue for peace; which was 
granted only on condition that they should enter 
into a perpetual alliance and confederation with 



1^79 

the Quiehees and Kacbiquels. The Quichees 
attacked the Mams, because the latter had de- 
clared themselves the allies of Zutugilebpop. 
Balam Acan sent an army, under the command 
of the cacique Chuatza, which overran all the 
territory of the Mams, and committed every spe- 
cies of hostility that could be devised. 

Maucotah succeeded Balam Acan on the 
throne of Utatlan ; being, at the death of the 
latter, engaged in the campaign, he was, l>y 
the army, proclaimed king of Quiche. Wish- 
ing to continue the war, to revenge the death of 
his predecessor, he made a fresh levy of 1 10,000 
men, to recruit his army; and appointed Togily- 
ahza his second in command. Zutugilebpop, vic- 
torious, and elated by good fortune, spread his 
troops over the highlands of Quich6e; ravaged 
the corn-fields and plantations; burnt the villages; 
and ultimately marched against the large and 
strongly fortified city of Xelahuh. The king, 
Maucotah, duly estimating the importance of this 
place, selected 70,000 of his best troops for its de- 
fence, and detached the remaining 40,000 to make 
an irruption into the territory of Atitan^ to besiege 
some of the cities and strong places in the low 
countries, and on the borders of the lake; by 
which diversion, he expected his antagonist would 
be forced to abandon the design upon Xelahuh. 
The Quichee army marched against that of Zutu- 
gil, that had taken a position before the cas- 
tle of Xelahuh ; Zutugilebpop, perceiving he 
would either be compelled to fight the advancing 
army on one side, and the garrison of the castle 
on the other, simultaneously, or else abandon the 
field with a diminished reputation, determined, 

N 2 



180 

in this dilemma, to try his fortune by a daring en- 
terprise. He selected 20,000 Zutugiles, whom 
he put under the command of Coculeuh, cacique 
of Samayaque, with orders to attack the Quiche 
army. An obstinatebattle took place; inthecourse 
of which, victory seemed to incline several times 
to each side. After much severe fighting, a body 
of the Quiches made a detour by a road con- 
cealed by a plantation of canes, that brought them 
on the flank of the Zutugiles ; which they at- 
tacked with great impetuosity, and put to flight, 
after killing the cacique Coculeuh, several of the 
principal nobles, and a great number of soldiers. 
Maucotah, with his main body, charged Zutugi- 
lebpop, and threw him into great disorder. The 
chiefs rallied the troops, and they in turn became 
the assailants. The fortune of the day was, for a 
long time, in suspense ; until the Quiches attacked 
the van of the Zutugiles, who, being now fatigued 
and dispirited^ began to give ground ; and all 
the exertions of the king and his generals were in- 
sufficient to encourage theni to a renewal of the 
contest. After this disaster, Zutugilebpop made 
his escape through the by-roads, and reached 
his capital. The operations of Maucotah's force, 
which had been detached against the places on 
the coast of the South Sea, and the territories 
about the lake, were not less detrimental to his 
enemies. Many towns were burnt ; many others 
surrendered, and were added to the dominions of 
the victors; and, amongst them, the famous city 
of Samayaque. Reverses so severe, with the en- 
tire rout and destruction of his armies, aflected 
Zutugilebpop so much, that he fell into a melan- 
choly despondency, which soon terminated his 



181 

existence. He was succeeded on the tlirone by 
Rumal Ahaus, a 3^outh only 19 years of age. 

As soon as this sovereign had assumed the 
sceptre^ he began, with all the eagerness peculiar 
to youth, to raise an army of 50,000 men, to op- 
pose the progress of Maucotah, who with 80,000 
was now endeavouring to recover the fortresses 
Polopo and Toliman. When the two armies 
came in sight of each other, Maucotah sent an 
ambassador to Rumal Ahaus, with orders to 
express his surprise that a king so young, and 
without experience, should have the audacity to 
contend against a monarch who was grown old 
in camps, at the head of a nation so renowned for 
valour as the Quiches were; and that if he wished 
to avoid a total overthrow, he must surrender Po- 
lopo and Toliman, with some other towns of his 
kingdom, and he should then be permitted to re- 
tain the remainder in peace. To this proposal, 
Rumal Ahaus replied, that he was much more 
astonished at the insatiable ambition of the king 
of Utatlan in desiring, and his folly in supposing, 
that he would alienate these places from his 
crown, on a peremptory demand ; but that if 
Maucotah was inclined to spare the lives of the 
vassals on each side, he was ready to stake the 
towns in question against a similar number in the 
kingdom of Quiche, and to decide the dispute by 
single combat. On receiving so unexpected a re- 
ply, Maucotah repaired to the army, and made 
his dispositions for attacking that of Rumal 
Ahaus. A very severe action ensued, in which 
the two kings, to the admiration of their respec- 
tive armies, descended from their litters, and 
fought hand to hand ; in determination and cou- 



182 

rage they were well matched ; but Rumal Ahaus, 
hearing a loud shout from the rear of his lines, 
which had been suddenly attacked by 10,000 
Quichees, turned his eyes, and inclined his body 
in that direction to ascertain the cause of it, when 
Maucotah seizing the advantage, wounded him 
in the neck with a dart; this misfortune obliged 
Rumal Ahaus to retire with the loss of many of 
his nobles, who bravely defended him in his re- 
treat : the battle lasted all the day, and night put 
an end to it without deciding the victory. The 
following dawn shewed the field abandoned by 
the Zutugiles ; during the night Polopo and Toli- 
man were evacuated, and they were now taken 
possession of by Maucotah. This monarch, how- 
ever, did not long enjoy his triumph; sinking 
under the burden of years, and the violence of 
diseases brought on by continual fatigue and ex- 
posure in his various campaigns, he died, leaving 
his kingdom overwhelmed by sorrow at the loss 
of his great military talents and domestic virtues. 
Iquibalam was next crowned king of Quiche ; 
he was a prince of competent age, with abilities 
tp sustain the weight of government, and the di- 
rection of military affairs; qualifications pecu- 
liarly requisite at this period, because Rumal 
Ahaus, who had speedily recovered from his 
wound, bent the whole force of his exertions, 
not merely to defend his own kingdom, but to 
attack every vulnerable point of Qniche. Iqui- 
balam was therefore forced to keep on foot a very 
strong military force ; and to interrupt the pror 
jects of his opponent, he determined to carry the 
war into the states of Rumal Ahaus and his allies, 
and keep them constantly upon the defensive. To 



183 

effect this he increased his army to 200,000 men, 
and stationed it at convenient points along the 
frontiers of Atitlan, so as to make 7 different at- 
tacks at the same time. The troops of Iquiba- 
1am succeeded in surprising and subduing many 
cities and places belonging to the Pipiles and Za- 
potitlan, but with an enormous expenditure of 
lives, for during an excursion in the mountains 
they lost upwards of 8,000 men. In the course 
of these events Iquibalam died ; this loss spread 
general sorrow throughout his kingdom ; for he 
was a prince of indefatigable industry, sound judg- 
ment, and great experience. 

On the demise of this monarch, Kicab ascended 
the throne ; his mature age, and long practice, 
both in the civil and military administration, in 
which he displayed a clear apprehension and 
consummate prudence, rendered him a worthy 
successor to Iquibalam. 

In the kingdom of Atitlan, Rumal Ahaus was 
succeeded by Chichiahtulu, who had been the 
next in command under him, and had obtained 
great advantages over the Quichees in the memo- 
rable mountain campaign: the first act of his reign 
was to lay siege to Totonicapan. Kicab opposed 
the designs of Chichiahtulu with a formidable 
army, and raised besides a body of 60,000 men, 
with which he attacked many of the towns and 
villages of the Zutugiles and Pipiles, and parti- 
cularly the city of Patulul ; although the go- 
vernors of these places made the most strenuous 
efforts to defend them, they were unable to resist 
the superior forces of the Quichees, and ultimately 
forced to surrender. Chichiahtulu seeing some of 
his most valuable possessions had been captured, 



184 

abandoned the siege of Totonicapan, and returned, 
by forced marches, to defend what still remained; 
but being attacked by a violent fever, brought on 
by the rapidity and fatigues of his progress, he 
died in a few days, greatly lamented by his peo- 
ple. The march of the army was not impeded 
by this event, and it advanced under the com- 
mand of Manilahuh, until it arrived in view of 
the Quiche camp; the attack immediately began 
with great fury, and was resisted with equal vi- 
gour; but as the forces of Kicab were closely 
united, and strongly posted in double lines, while 
those of Manilahuh were weakened by their great 
extent, in less than an hour and a half, the latter 
were entirely routed, leaving their general and 
many principal officers, with a great number of 
men dead on the field : the Quiches celebrated 
their victory with great rejoicings, and the army 
immediately returned to the capital of Utatlan. 
From this period nothing is known of the parti- 
cular warlike operations of these two kingdoms, 
during the reigns of the next seven monarchs that 
succeeded Kicab ; but it is certain the two coun- 
tries were never long together in a state of peace ; 
for the Zutugiles having lost many of their posses- 
sions in the wars already mentioned, always felt 
the greatest desire to recover them, and for this 
reason sought every pretext for kindling fresh 
wars. Besides the contests that ravaged the do- 
minions of the Quiches and Zutugiles, there were 
many others between different states; among these, 
the most remarkable was the unjust aggression 
of Kicab the Second upon Lahuhquieh, cacique 
of the Mams. According to the Xecul manu- 
script, under the head Ahpopquehan, folios 11 and 



185 

12, Kicab finding himself with sufficient forces 
for undertaking any enterprise with great proba- 
bility of success, assembled a military council of 
all his generals, and stated to them the great in- 
crease in the population of his states, and the in- 
sufficiency of his territory to afford them suste- 
nance ; on the other hand, he represented the 
great extent of country occupied by the Mams, a 
wretched people^ for whom, in his opinion, a 
much smaller portion would amply suffice; and 
that by subduing, he might confine them to much 
narrower limits, and appropriate the greater part 
of their territory to the use of his own subjects. 
But little persuasion was required to induce these 
officers to coincide in opinion with their sovereign; 
the attempt was resolved upon unanimously, and 
the necessary preparations for the war were com- 
menced with the greatest alacrity. . The clang of 
arms resounded in every part of the kingdom, 
without its being known what neighbouring state 
was threatened by the tempest : the kings of Ka- 
chiquel and Zutugil, the chiefs of Rabinal, and 
the Mams, all made ready to resist a hostile at- 
tack; the storm at last burst upon Lahuhquieh, 
the cacique of Mam, who bravely hastened to 
repel the torrent of invasion. The army of Kicab, 
numerous and inured to war, marched in 13 di- 
visions under different leaders, the whole com- 
manded by the king in person; that of Lahuh- 
quieh, not so numerous as his aggressors, but no 
ways inferior in courage and discipline, was led 
by the principal nobles of his nation. Both par- 
ties advanced to the encounter with a dreadful 
noise of warlike instruments, shouting of the sol- 
diers, and every species of discordant clamour; 



186 

the mountains and forests re-echoed the noise of 
the assault, like the howlings of a furious tem- 
pest; the battle was terrible, and the numbers 
slain on each side immense ; the edges of the 
swords made of the stone called Chay, did great 
execution among those who fought in the fore- 
most ranks, and the missiles, such as darts and 
stones hurled by slings, were equally destructive 
among those at greater distance ; the contest 
lasted the whole day, and at night Kicab with- 
drew the Quichees, under cover of the darkness, 
and took up a position on the summit of a rising 
ground, the Mams remaining on the inferior part 
of it. As soon as day broke on the following 
morning, the Quichees assaulted the Mams with a 
shower of stones and arrows, that made great ha- 
voc; the latter finding themselves so much exposed 
to these missiles, resolved to attack the eminence : 
but the Quichees having the advantage of po- 
sition, easily sustained this desperate enterprise, 
and speedily overthrew the assailants; Lahuh- 
quieh however retreated slowly, and in good 
order, halting in a favourable position at some 
distance from the scene of action : here he re- 
mained until the Quich6es descended into the 
plain, and attacked him again ; these were how- 
ever warmly received by the Mams, and ulti- 
mately forced to regain their eminence ; being 
pursued to their very defences, the fight was re- 
newed with great bravery on both sides. During 
the battle the Mams were attacked by the ca- 
cique Ixinche, who had brought a reinforcement 
of fresh troops to Kicab, and obliged to quit the 
field ; they were so closely pursued by Ixinch6, 
as to find it necessary to abandon all their towns 



187 

(which the Quich^es pillaged), and retired with 
Lahuhqnieh to the mountains of the northern 
ridge, where their posterity are at present settled. 
Nor did Nimahuinac, king of the Kachiquels, 
long enjoy the repose which the perpetual peace 
and alliance ratified with the Pipiles seemed to 
promise him: for having appointed his relation, 
Acpocaquil, treasurer of his revenues, this traitor 
excited a rebellion against him, and got posses- 
sion of Patinamit (nowTepanguatemala), with all 
the country appertaining to it ; the king of the 
Zutugiles having declared himself the ally of Ac- 
pocaquil, a war broke out between them, which 
was raging on the arrival of the Spaniards. It is 
supposed, upon very reasonable grounds, that this 
war was the cause w^hy Sinacam, who had suc- 
ceeded to the throne of the Kachiquels^ sued to 
the Spaniards for peace, in order to recover, by 
their assistance, the extensive possessions that 
had been wrested from him by Acpocaquil an ally 
of the king of Atitan. 



CHAP. IV. 

Of the Laws and Government of the Lidians, 

To those who have opportunities of observing the 
humble state of the natives of this country in the 
present day, and of viewing the rudeness, the di- 
minutive size and inconvenience of their habita- 
tions, find great difficulty in believing that the In- 
dians, in their state of paganism, could have had 
such well arranged and well defended cities, such 
magnificent palaces, fortresses constructed with so 
much art, and other buildings of pure ostentation 
and grandeur, as are described in their histories. 



188 

The richest Indian in modern times, has but one 
dwelling ; and although it may contain several 
apartments^ they are irregularly disposed and un- 
connected with each other. There is no instance 
of one of them possessing a house that exhibits 
any thing like convenience or good order; even 
after they had seen those of the Spaniards, and 
had assisted in constructing them. It is also no 
less difficult to conceive, how this people could 
have been governed by laws so just and well di- 
gested, that they might have been adopted with 
advantage into the codes of the most civilized na- 
tions, when we view their existing state of rusti- 
city, and destitution of talent. The great palace 
and city of Utatlan, the cities of Tepanguatemala* 
and Mixco, the fortresses of Parraxquin, Socoleo, 
Uspantlan, Chalcitan, and several others, vestiges 
of which yet remain, and are admired ; the great 
circus of Copan, the great stone hammock and 
cave of Tibulca, that are now in existence, will, 
in spite of scepticism, force from us a considerable 
portion of confidence in the first part of these his- 
tories ; and credit will be given to the latter, by a 
reference to those laws, which shall be cited for 
the purpose of shewing the prudence and discre- 
tion of the Indians, and to overthrow the mean and 
degrading conception that it has been so long the 
fasliion to entertain of their capacity. 

Commencing with the law of succession to the 
throne, it was ordained that the eldest son of the 
king should inherit the crown ; upon the second 

* This is to be understood of the ancient city of Patinamit, 
which was 11 leagues distant from the village of Tecpanguate- 
mala ; and of the ancient Mixco, that was situated in the valley 
of Xilotepeque, at a considerable distance from the present 
village of that name. 



189 

son the title of Elect was conferred, as being the 
next heir to his elder brother; the sons of the el- 
dest son received the title of Captain senior, and 
those of the second Captain junior. When the 
king died, his eldest son assumed the sceptre, and 
the Elect became the immediate inheritor; the 
Captain senior ascended to the rank of Elect, the 
Captain junior to that of Captain senior, and the 
next nearest relative to that of Captain junior. 
Advancing in this manner by gradations to the 
throne, the monarchs began their reigns at a ma- 
ture age, in possession of many qualifications, and 
much experience, both in civil and military go- 
vernment. But if any one of these four personages 
was found to be incapable of governing, he re- 
mained in his first rank until his death, and the 
next nearest relation was raised to the superior 
dignity. 

The supreme council of the monarch of Quiche 
was composed of 24 grandees, with whom the king 
deliberated on all political and military affairs. 
These counsellors were invested with great dis- 
tinctions and many privileges; they carried the em- 
peror on their shoulders in his chair of state when- 
ever he quitted his palace, but they were severely 
punished if they committed any crime. The admi- 
nistration of justice, and the collection of the royal 
revenues, were under their charge. 

The king appointed lieutenants in the principal 
towns of his empire, who enjoyed great honours, 
large emoluments, and supreme authority, except 
in cases that concerned the rights or privileges 
of the ahaus, which were remitted to the supreme 
council. If these deputies neglected their duties, 
or committed offences, they were speedily re- 



190 

moved, and severely chastised ; but, on the con- 
trary, when they governed with prudence and im- 
partiality, without giving the suJjject cause of 
complaint, they were retained in their posts, dis- 
tinguished by greater honours, and as a mark of 
respect to their merits, their sons frequently suc- 
ceeded to their offices. 

These lieutenants of the king, or corregidors of 
districts, had also their councils, to which, as well 
as in the supreme council, when any business of 
superior moment that concerlfed the public good 
was debated, the chiefs of the calpuls or nobles 
were invited to declare their opinions ; if the affair 
related to war, the most experienced commanders 
were consulted. 

To the offices of lieutenants and counsellors, 
and even down to door-keepers of the council, 
none but those of noble race were admitted ; and 
there was no instance of any person being ap- 
pointed to a public office, high or low, who was 
not selected from the nobility ; for which reason, 
great anxiety was felt by them to keep the purity 
of their lineage unsullied. To preserve this rank 
untainted in blood, it was decreed by the law, 
that if any cacique or noble should marry a wo- 
man who was not of noble family, he should be 
degraded to the cast of mazegual, or plebeian, 
assume the name of his wife, be subject to all the 
duties and services imposed upon plebeians, and 
his estates be sequestered to the king, leaving him 
only a sufficiency for a decent maintenance in his 
sphere of mazegual. 

They had their penal laws also : tlie king was 
liable to be tried, and if convicted of extreme cru- 
elty and tyranny, was deposed by the ahaguaes. 



19 1 

who for this purpose assembled a council with 
great secrecy: the next in succession, according to 
law, was placed on the throne, and his ejected 
predecessor punished by confiscation of all his 
property, and, as some writers affirm, put to death 
by decapitation. — (Torquemada, part 2, chap. 8,) 
If a queen was guilty of adultery with a noble 
person, both she and the accomplice were stran- 
gled ; but if, forgetting her dignity, she had crimi- 
nal intercourse with a commoner, they were thrown 
from a very high rock. 

If the ahaguaes impeded the collection of the 
tributes, or were fomenters of any conspiracy, they 
were condemned to death, and all the members 
of their families sold as slaves. 

Whoever was guilty of crimes against the king, 
or the liberties of the country, or convicted of ho- 
micide, was punished by death, the sequestration 
of property, and slavery of his relations. 

Robbers were sentenced to pay the value of the 
things stolen, and a fine besides ; for the second 
offence, the fine was doubled ; and for the third, 
they were punished with death, unless the calpul 
would redeem them ; but if they transgressed a 
fourth time, they were thrown from a rock. 

Rape was punished by death. 

Incendiaries were deemed enemies of their 
country, because, said the law, fire has no bounds, 
and by setting fire to one house, a whole town 
might be destroyed ; and this would be public 
treason : therefore death was the punishment 
awarded against the perpetrator, and his family 
was banished from the kingdom. 

A simarron, or runaway from the authority of 
his master, paid a fine to his calpul of a certain 



192 

quantity of blankets ; but the second offence was 
punished by death. 

The stealing of things sacred, the profanation 
of the temples, and contumacy of the papas, or 
ministers of the idols, subjected the offender to 
the punishment of death, and all his family were 
declared infamous. 

They had a law which is still in use; when- 
ever a young man wished to marry, he was bound 
to serve the parents of his intended wife for a cer- 
tain time, and make them stipulated presents; 
but if they afterward rejected his proposals, they 
were compelled to return the things received, and 
serve him an equal number of days. 

If these laws be attentively considered, it will 
be acknowledged that some of them are just and 
prudent ; others not very conformable to reason ; 
others repugnant to nature, and may be branded 
for their cruelty. In the last description must 
be placed the manner of bringing the offender to 
trial ; for, not having the privilege of appeal, when 
he was brought before the judge, if he confessed 
the crime, he was immediately taken from the tri- 
bunal, to undergo the punishment awarded by the 
laws ; but if he denied the charge, he was cruelly 
tortured : he was stripped naked, suspended by 
the thumbs, and in that situation severely flogged, 
and smoked with chile. — (Torquem. part 2, lib. 
12, chap. 10.) 

CHAP. V. 

Of the Manners and Customs of the hidians. 

As the manners and customs of the natives form 

an essential portion of the history of a country, 

Philip the Second, desirous of having a complete 



193 

history of these kingdoms, ordered, on the 23d 
September, 1580, that a correct narrative of the 
habits and peculiarities of the Indians of Guate- 
mala, while in a state of idolatry, should be writ- 
ten; the present chapter is therefore devoted to 
this subject. 

The dresses of the noble Indians differed from 
those of the commoners; as did those of the ci- 
vilized part of the population from those of the 
barbarians. It is known from tradition, from an- 
cient manuscripts, and from paintings still extant 
in the convents of Guatemala, that the nobles 
wore a dress of white cotton, dyed or stained 
with different colours ; the use of which was pro^ 
hibited to the other ranks. This vestment con- 
sisted of a shirt and white breeches, decorated 
with fringes ; over these was drawn another pair 
of breeches, reaching to the knees, and ornamented 
with a species of embroidery ; the legs were bare ; 
the feet protected by sandals, fastened over the in- 
step, and at the heel, by thongs of leather ; the 
sleeves of the shirt w^ere looped above the elbow, 
with a blue or red band ; the hair was worn long, 
and tressed behind with a cord of the colour used 
upon the sleeves, and terminating in a tassel, which 
was a distinction peculiar to the great captains ; 
the waist was girded with a piece of cloth of va- 
rious colours, fastened in a knot before; over the 
shoulders was thrown a white mantle, ornament- 
ed with figures of birds, lions, and other decora- 
tions of cords and fringe. The ears and lower 
lip were pierced, to receive star-shaped pendants 
of gold or silver; the insignia of office, or dignity, 
were carried in the hand. The Indians of modern 
times differ from the ancients only in wearing the 

o 



194 

hair short, the sleeves loose, and by the omission 
of earrings and lip ornaments. 

The civilized natives dress with great decency ; 
they vrear a species of petticoat, that descends 
from the middle of the body to the ancles, and a 
robe over the shoulders, reaching to the knees ; 
this was formerly worked with thread, of different 
colours, but is now embroidered with silk. The 
hair is formed into tresses, with cords of various 
hues ; and they wear ornaments in the ears and 
nether lip. 

The habit of the mazaguales is simple, and 
very poor : they are not permitted the use of 
cotton, and substitute for it cloth made of pita,^ 
The dress is simply a long shirt, the flaps of 
which are drawn between the legs, and fastened ; 
a piece of the same stuff is tied round the waist, 
and a similar piece forms a covering for the head. 
Some of the Indians of the southern coast wear 
this dress ; but generally, in the warm districts, 
they go naked, with the exception of the maztlate, 
or piece of cloth worn round the middle, for the 
sake of decency. 

The barbarians, or unreclaimed Indians, of 
Guatemala, unlike those of Sinaloa^ who go in a 
state of perfect nudity, wear a cloth round the 
middle, and passing between the fork. This co- 
vering, among the chiefs, is of white cotton ; but 
the common people make it of a piece of bark ; 
which, after being soaked for some days in a river, 
and then well beaten, resembles fine shamois lea- 
ther, of a buff colour. They always paint them- 
selves black, rather for the purpose of defence 

* Pita is the fibres of a plant twisted into thread, resembling 
that made from hemp. 



195 

against Mosquitoe than for ornament ; a strip of 
white cotton is bound round the head, and in it 
are stuck some red feathers. Green feathers are 
the distinguishing marks of their chiefs and no- 
bles. The hair flows loose upon the shoulders ; 
the lower lip and nose are decorated with rings; 
they carry a bow and arrow in their hands, and 
have a quiver suspended from the shoulder. 

In the care and education of their children, 
they resemble the Lacedaemonians, Spartans, Cre- 
tans, and the most polished nations of the world. 
They had schools in all their principal towns, 
both for boys and girls ; these were under the 
superintendence of elderly experienced persons. 
— (Torquemada, part 2, chap. 28.) These semi- 
naries, indeed, no longer exist ; but the fathers 
take great care in the education of their sons. 
The women suckle their children until they have 
completed the third year, without an instance 
being known of trusting them to the care of 
another person : they carry them slung at their 
backs; and wash, grind corn, or perform any 
other labours^ with them in this situation ; they 
never protect them from the inclemencies of the 
weather, air, sun, cold, or water ; they seldom 
have any other cradle than the bare ground, and, 
at the best, nothing more than a little hammock. 
As soon as they begin to run alone, they are made 
to carry little burdens, proportioned to their 
strength. At 5 or 6 years of age, they are taken 
into the fields to cut forage, which they call sacat, 
or to carry home little bundles of wood. As they 
increase in years, the boys are taught^ by their fa- 
thers, to hunt, fishy and till the ground, the use 
of the bow, and other similar arts : the mothers 

o2 



196 

instruct the girls, from their tenderest years, to 
grind corn, procuring for them small stones, suit- 
able to their management, and in the other em- 
ployments peculiar to their sex, such as dressing 
and spinning cotton and pita, and to weave the 
different sorts of cloth. They are accustomed to 
bathe very frequently, twice or even three times 
a day. The mothers are extremely suspicious, 
and will not suffer their daughters to be absent 
from them scarcely a minute. The young men 
live at the expense of their fathers ; but whatever 
they gain by labour is delivered into the parent's 
hands. In this manner they are maintained until 
they marry. 

When a marriage is to be celebrated, on the ap- 
pointed day, thepriest of the village, the principal 
cacique, and the relations on both sides, assemble 
at the house of the calpul to whom the bride and 
bridegroom belong. The priest then desires the 
young man to confess to him all the sins of his 
past life : the same is then required of the bride. 
After having separately told all their misdeeds, 
the relations are admitted, with the presents they 
intend to make, and with which the young couple 
are decorated. After this, they are carried upon 
the shoulders of those who assist at the ceremony, 
to the house intended for them ; where they are 
placed in bed, and the door fastened \ the mar- 
riage ceremony is then complete. 

Their mode of living is very rude and com- 
fortless : they sleep on the ground, with the head 
covered, and the feet bare; they seldom have 
any thing to raise the head, but when they do use 
a pillow it is nothing more than a stone or brick. 
Their repast is spread on the ground, without a 



197 
cloth. Maize is the constant food. They some- 
times eat beef, or other meat, procured by the 
chase; but it is in small quantity, and always ac- 
companied with tortilla, which is a sort of thin 
cake, made of maize, and baked on a comal, or 
slab of clay : this, seasoned with salt and a little 
chile, forms the ordinary food. They also make 
balls of maize, rolled up in leaves, called tamal ; 
these, when stuffed with meat and seasoned with 
chile, are termed nacatamal. From the maize is 
made a beverage called atole; of this there are 
as many as ten different sorts, distinguished by 
names in reference to its composition; as istatole, 
jocoatole, nectinatole, &c. 

In their visits they make long harangues, re- 
markable only for the repetition of the same ex- 
pressions. If they take their children with them, 
they make them keep profound silence. When 
intrusted with a secret, the utmost confidence may 
be placed in their tenaciousness ; as they will 
risk their lives rather than reveal it. If a ques- 
tion be asked, a direct answer is never given ; 
perhaps, yes, or no, is the usual reply. They 
place great reliance on the Spaniards; and when 
the latter become their guests, they give up every 
thing to them with much cheerfulness and satis- 
faction ; but of the negroes, they entertain such 
dislike and distrust, that if they know one to 
be gone in any particular road they have occasion 
to pass, it is a sufficient reason for them to pro- 
ceed by a different way. Intercourse with them 
is troublesome, particularly with those employed 
as couriers, who, as soon as they have delivered a 
letter intrusted to their care, take post opposite 
the house of the person to whom it is directed, 
where they will remain until they are dispatched 



198 

with the reply. As they iind warmth agreeable, 
they have a fire-place in their dwellings ; and 
they delight much to bask in the sun, and bathe 
in the warm springs. They are much addicted 
to drunkenness, and have a propensity equally 
strong to superstition : to particularize examples 
of which might amuse, but the detail would ex- 
tend much beyond reasonable limits. 



CHAP. VI. 

Of the Variety of Native Languages^ and the 
Inconveniencies arising therefrom. 

The people of the Mexican empire do not speak 
the Spanish language, but nearly all of them use 
the Mexican. In the kingdom of Maya, or mo- 
dern Yucatan, the Maya language was the only 
one used; and it seems that the other kingdoms of 
America had each its peculiar tongue. It is there- 
fore certain, that no one of the kingdoms of the 
New World has so many different languages as 
that of Guatemala; the following 26 being peculiar 
to itj viz. Quiche, Kachiquel, Zutugil, Mam, Po- 
comam, Pipil, or Nahuate, Pupuluca, Sinca, 
Mexican, Chorti, Alaguilac, Caichi, Poconchi, 
Ixil, Zotzil, Tzendal, Chapaneca, Zoque, Coxoh, 
Chanabal, Choi, Uzpanteca, Lenca, Aguacateca, 
Maya, and Quecchi. 

It will be easily conceived that much confusion 
must have arisen from this multitude of various 
idioms. It has been the object of the Spaniards, 
at different periods, to diminish the inconvenience 
arising from this variety, by introducing the use 
of the Spanish language as much as possible. As 
early as the year 1550, the king of Spain directed 



199 

an order, bearing date the 7th of July, to the pro- 
vincial of St. Domingo, directing him to use every 
means in his power to encourage the religieux of 
.his order to instruct the Indians under their care 
in the language of Spain ; and in this service it 
■was expected they would exert their w^ell-known 
zeal and diligence, to procure the great advan- 
tages that would result to the government from 
their undertaking being successful : and, that his 
wishes might be carried into full effect, he com- 
manded that persons should be appointed to at- 
tend exclusively to this object. Instructions 
were, at the same time, given to the president and 
judges of the audiencia, to use their authority 
and influence to further his majesty's intentions. 
These instructions were repeated to the governor 
in September, 1695; but it is no less extraordi- 
nary than true, that up to this day they have not 
been attended to. 

Many advantages would certainly arise to the 
government, as well as to the people, were the 
use of the Spanish language to become general 
among the Indians. In matters of religion, the 
latter would undoubtedly be greatly benefited 
from the facility with which instruction could be 
conveyed to them; the^difficulty of obtaining mi- 
nisters capable of expounding the sacred tenets 
of Christianity would be avoided ; and the zeal 
of ecclesiastics would no longer be checked by 
the uninviting labour of acquiring languages of 
difficult and uncouth pronunciation, and in which 
the enunciation of words, with more or less force, 
frequently conveys a different, and sometimes an 
opposite, signification. In temporal affairs, the In- 
dians would also be gainers ; as they would be 



200 

enabled to appeal to the corregidors and subordi- 
nate magistrates, in cases of injuries, or disputed 
rights, without the intervention of interpreters^ 
who usually, either from negligence or design, 
falsely represent the simplest facts, and thereby 
delay, if not pervert, the impartial administration 
of justice; after having duped their confiding 
clients of as much money as they can, by artifice, 
extract from them. The satisfaction arising from 
having the means of thus presenting themselves 
before the tribunals, having their wrongs re- 
dressed, and seeing the delinquents punished by 
the laws, would beget a confidence between the 
governors and the governed, from which mutual 
advantages must result. The commercial rela- 
tions between the Spaniards and natives, as well 
as between those of one nation and those of an- 
other, would be greatly facilitated. It is true, 
there is a strong resemblance between some of 
the idioms ; and the Indians of one tribe can un- 
derstand those of another from analogy: these 
instances, however, are not very frequent ; nor 
can the intercourse be maintained with sufficient 
clearness and precision, to enable them to traffic 
with each other readily and satisfactorily. 



CHAP. VII. 



Proofs that the Kingdom of Guatemala was never 
subject to the Mexican Empire. 

AuTZOL, the eighth king of Mexico, although in 
possession of an extensive and flourishing em- 
pire, was ambitious of amplifying it by the an- 
nexation of Guatemala ; for this purpose he era- 



201 

ployed all his forces to bring the Tultecati chiefs^ 
who then governed it, under his dominion ; but, 
failing in his open attacks, he endeavoured to ob- 
tain his object by other means. He sent a special 
embassy to the chiefs, to treat for an alliance be- 
tween the two kingdoms ; but this insidious at- 
tempt was attended with as little success as his 
more undisguised endeavours, for when his emis- 
saries were introduced to the king of Utatlan, 
that monarch would not give them an audience 
on the subject of their mission, sagaciously al- 
leging that he could not understand their lan- 
guage. The ambassadors then proceeded to the 
court of Guatemala, where they were received 
with more civility and distinction ; but ultimately 
dismissed without obtaining their object. After 
this repulse, they next directed their course to 
the capital of the Zutugiles; but the king of that 
country, who was then living on bad terms with 
the princes of his own family^ received them with 
unequivocal demonstrations of hostility : finding 
themselves in danger, they returned without de- 
lay to the city of Utatlan, from which the king of 
Quiche ordered them to depart on the following 
day, and to quit his dominions within 20 days. 
These dismissals were accompanied with less than 
usual courtesy^ because the chiefs suspected, and 
not without good foundation, that the proposal of 
peace and alliance was nothing more than a stra- 
tagem of Autzol's to cover his real design, which 
was, that his messengers should examine the 
roads, ascertain the forces of the different nations, 
and take note of such places as lay open to at- 
tack with the greatest probability of success. En- 
rico Martinez, in his second treatise, chap. 22, and 



202 

some other writers, were probably misled by the 
vaunting boasts of the king of Mexico, on the 
return of his ambassadors, to state, as a positive 
fact, that Guatemala was subject to the Mexicans 
before the period of the Spanish conquest; they 
have, however, omitted to adduce any arguments 
to substantiate this opinion, or to refer to any mo- 
numents or authorities to give it probability. 

There exist proofs sufficiently strong to \var- 
rant an opposite conclusion. Acosta (lib. 7, chap. 
28,) asserts, that it was a practice of the Mexicans 
to induce the inhabitants of all the provinces and 
towns that they made themselves masters of, to 
learn voluntarily, and make use of the Mexican 
idiom ; or else to compel them by force to do so. 
From this fact, it may clearly be inferred, that as 
the language of Mexico is not generally spoken in 
this kingdom, it never was subject to the empire 
of Mexico. It is an admitted fact, that the Pipil 
Indians, who are settled along the coasts of the 
Pacific, from the province of Escuintla to that of 
St. Salvador, speak a corrupt Mexican language; 
but it is a fact equally incontrovertible, that these 
Indians are descended from certain Mexicans, 
whom the Emperor Autzol found the means of 
introducing into these countries in the character 
of traders, in order to form a party for him- 
self, that would be useful in furthering his at- 
tempts at subjugating the kingdom. Besides the 
Pipiles, there are other tribes who use the Mexi- 
can idiom ; but as many Mexican Indians came 
with the Spanish conquerors, it is more than 
probable they established themselves in colouies, 
and that these are their descendants. Although 
it be admitted that the Mexican language is 



203 

spoken in some parts of Guatemala, yet as it is 
not used in the places where the capitals of the 
Tultecan kings were situated, the fact that these 
caciques never were subdued by the Mexicans, 
remains unshaken ; for, had the contrary been 
the case, these very towns would have been the 
places where, in compliance with the Mexican 
practice, that language would have been most 
predominant. 

Bernal Diaz del Castillo, in chap. 172 of his 
History, furnishes another corroboration of this 
fact : he says, that at the time of the conquest 
of Guatemala, there was no open road from the 
kingdom of Mexico into the province of Chiapa ; 
there were only narrow paths, in many places 
very indistinct, and in others all traces of them 
entirely lost; insomuch, that the Spaniards found 
it necessary to make use of the mariner's com- 
pass to direct them in the route which they in- 
tended to pursue. The dictrict of Soconusco 
was equally devoid of practicable roads ; the 
historian Herrera (dec. 3, lib. 3, cap. 17,) says, 
that " Pedro de Alvarado began to open a road 
through the provinces of Soconusco and Guate- 
mala." As there was no road from Mexico to 
Guatemala, it is not easy to conceive how the 
latter kingdom could be subject to the former, as 
there were not the means of keeping up a com- 
munication, even between the principal places 
of the two countries. How could the orders of 
the emperor be conveyed to his vassals ? or how 
could the tributes and contributions of the latter 
be transported to the treasury of the former ? 
How could the numerous armies that must have 
been requisite to overcome such powerful kings 



204 

as those of Quiche, Guatemala, and Atitan, 
march to these conquests, without leaving an 
ample road by which to trace their progress ? 



CHAP. VIII. 

Of the number of Provinces at different Periods 
in the Kingdom of Guatemala. 

In physical and material bodies, so many changes 
and varieties are observable, that what to-day is 
trivial, will be great to-morrow; that which we 
view at this time under one figure, will shortly 
present itself to our senses under another form, 
and never remain long in the same state; but bo- 
dies politic and civil, are liable to still greater 
variations ; inasmuch as their very existence 
depends upon the mutable dispositions of men, 
even when those who govern are most inclined to 
stabiHty ; but as the human understanding is con- 
fined, at best, to very narrow limits, and partial 
views, it arises, that daily experience adduces 
new arguments for varying the order and organi- 
zation of tribunals, provinces, and kingdoms. 

The kingdom of Guatemala has experienced 
many of these changes, and,- according to the 
circumstances of different periods, new alcaldias 
mayor have been created, or corregimientos 
united : the number of provinces at one time in- 
creased, at another reduced. In the geographi- 
cal description it has been already said, that 
there are now 15 provinces; in past periods there 
have been as many as 32 : — of these, 4 were dis- 
tinguished as governments, Comayagua, Nicara- 
gua, Costa Rica, and Soconusco ; 9 as alcaldias 



205 

mayor, San Salvador, Ciudad Real, Tegucigalpa, 
Zonzonate, Verapaz, Suchiltepeques, Nicoya^ 
Amatique, and the mines of St. Andres de Za- 
ragoza; 18 as corregimientos, Totonicapan, Quez- 
altenango, Atitan, Tecpanatitan^ or Solola, Es- 
cuintla, Guazacapan, Chiquimula, Acasaguastlan, 
Realejo, Matagalpa, Monimbo, Chontales, Que- 
salguaque, Tencoa, Quepo, Chirripo, Pacaca, 
Ujarraz, and the valley of Guatemala, which was 
governed by the ordinary alcaldes of the city, 
with the title of corregidores. The king ap- 
pointed the governors to the 4 provinces that were 
called governments ; and the alcaldes mayor to 
the 6 first named alcaldias ; the remaining 3 al- 
caldes mayor, and the 18 corregidors were nomi- 
nated by the president of Guatemala, who gave 
the appointments for two years: the corregimiento 
of the valley of Guatemala was given, by the 
corporation of the city, to the ordinary alcaldes, 
who exercised the office alternately for six months 
each. 

Such was the distribution of the kingdom in the 
17th century; but the population of the province 
of Costa Rica being greatly diminished, the 4 
corregimientos of Quepo, Chirripo, Ujarraz, and 
Pacaca, were extinguished, and these divisions 
united to the government of Costa Rica, about 
the year 1660, or soon after, by an order from the 
king. About the same time, the corregimiento of 
Tencoa was united to the government of Comay- 
agua ; and those of Monimbo, Chontales, and 
Quesalguaque, to the government of Nicaragua. 
In the beginning of the 18th century, the alcaldias 
mayor of Amatique and St. Andres de Zaragoza 
were suppressed: a few years afterward, the 



206 

corregimieiitos of Escuintla and Guazacapan were 
united to form the alcaldia mayor of Escuintla ; 
while those of Atitan and Tecpanatitan became 
the alcaldia mayor of Solola. In 1760, the cor- 
regimiento of Acasaguastlan was added to that 
of Chiquimula. In 1753, the alcaldias mayor of 
Chimaltenango and Sacatapeques, were formed 
from the corregimiento of the valley of Guatemala. 
In 1764^ the provinces of Chiapa and Zoques were 
separated from the alcaldia mayor of Ciudad Real, 
and formed into that of Tuxtla. Towards the 
end of the 18th century, intendancies of pro- 
vinces were created, when the districts of Realejo, 
Matagalpa, and Nicoya, were aggregated to the 
government of Leon, to constitute the intendancy 
of Nicaragua : the alcaldia mayor of Tegucigalpa, 
and the government of Comayagua, became the 
intendancy of Honduras: the government of So- 
conuscoi with the alcaldias of Ciudad Real and 
Tuxtla^ composed the intendancy of Chiapa. In 
this manner the 32 provinces were reduced to 15. 
Formerly the president of the kingdom had the 
privilege of appointing to some of the alcaldias 
mayor, and all the corregidorships, as just men- 
tioned ; but latterly the king has reserved to him- 
self the right of nominating of all these officers, 
leaving to the president only the power of filling 
up the vacancies, ad interim, Generally, the 
presidents are invested with authority to fill up 
all offices under the government ; and in the city, 
some ad interim, others permanently : they also 
possess, in virtue of the royal patronage, the right 
of presentation to all the curacies. Since the 
creation of intendancies, the presidents enjoy the 
privilege of electing, as subdelegate, one of three 



207 

persons proposed to him by the intendant, when- 
ever a subdelegation becomes vacant. The sub- 
delegations of the four intendancies are the fol- 
lowing : 

INTENDANCIES. 



LEON. 


CHIAPA. 


COMAYAGUA. 


S. SALVADOR 




Subdelegations or Districts 


, 


Granada, 


Ocozingo, 


Gracias a Dios, 


St. Miguel, 


Realejo, 


Simojovel, 


Olancho, 


St. Vincente, 


Siibtiava, 


Palenque, 


Olanchito, 


St. Ana Grande, 


Segovia, 


Tonala, 


St. Pedro Sula, 


Chalatenango, 


Matagalpa, 


Socouusco, 


Yoro, 


Olocuilta, 


Nicaragua. 


Tila, 


St. Barbara, 


Cojutepeque, 




Istacomitan, 


TruxillQ, 


Texutla, 




Tuxtla, 


Tegucigalpa, 


Opico, 




Guista, 


Choluteca. 


Metapas, 




Comitan, 




Usulutan, 




St. Andres. 




Gotera, 
St. Alexo, 
Sacatecoluca, 
Sensuntepeque. 



CHAP. IX. 

Of the Southern Provinces of Guatemala. 

THE PROVINCE AND INTENDANCY OF CIUDAD 
REAL DE CHIAPA. 

The native authors do not agree in their accounts 
of the origin of the Indians of this district. An- 
tonio de Remesal, in his History of the Province 
of St. Vincent de Chiapa and Guatemala, (lib. 5, 
cap. 13,) positively asserts^ that the people of Chi- 
apa originally came from the province of Nica- 
ragua. The Quiche manuscript, already spoken 
of, says, that the Queienes and Chapanecos are 
descendants of a brother of King Nimaquiche, 



208 

who accompanied him from the city of Tula. 
Nuiiez de la Vega, bishop of Chiapa, in the pre- 
face to his Diocesan Constitutions, states, that he 
met with certain calendars in the language of 
these Indians, in which mention was made of 20 
lords, or heads of families, from whom it appears 
this people derived their origin. Their names 
were Ninus, or Mox, Ygh, Votan, Ghanan, 
Abagb, Tox, Moxic, Lambat, Molo, or Mulu, 
Elab, Batz, Evob, Been, Hix, Tziquin, Chabin, 
Chic, Chinax, Cahogh, and Aghual. Of all these 
magnates, Votan seems to have been the most 
celebrated personage, as a separate work is de~ 
voted to his particular history. In this he is said 
to have seen the great wall (by which the tower 
of Babel is meant) that was built by order of his 
grandfather Noe, from the earth to the sky ; and 
that, at this place, to every people a different lan- 
guage was given. It farther says, that Votan was 
the first person whom God sent to this country, 
to divide the lands, and apportion them among 
the Indians ; and adds, that Votan was at Hue- 
hueta, a town of Soconusco, where he introduced 
Dantas, and concealed a treasure. This treasure 
was discovered in a cave by Nuiiez de la Vega ; it 
consisted of some earthen jars, on which were re- 
presented figures of the ancient Gentile Indians. 
If credit be given to the manuscripts, it follows 
that we must consider these regions to have been 
peopled shortly after the deluge ; since Votan, 
who was at Babel when they were building the 
tower, and the human race was dispersed and 
separated by diflferent languages, was one of the 
founders of the Indian population. By parity of 
reasoning we must also admit, that the languages 



209 • 

of these provinces are some of the primitive dia- 
lects, into which the Ahnighty divided the lan- 
guage of the post-diluvian patriarchs. From the 
same cause we shall be led to believe, that the 
first inhabitants of America did not, according to 
the most generally received opinion, arrive at it 
by way of the straits of Anian ; for had that been 
the fact, many years, and many generations, must 
have passed away before they could have ex- 
tended thence into these regions under the torrid 
zone, at a distance so immense from the straits. 

One fact, however, is beyond controversy, viz, 
that this province was inhabited by a powerful 
and polished people, who maintained an inter- 
course with the Egyptians, as the sumptuous 
cities of Culhuacan and Tulha, vestiges of which 
yet remain near the towns of Palenque and Oco- 
singo, evidently demonstrate. In the first, some 
remaining buildings are objects of admiration, and 
afford sufficient evidence that Culhuacan once 
rivalled in magnificence the most celebrated ca- 
pitals of the old world. Stately temples, in which 
many hieroglyphics, symbols, devices, and traces 
of fabulous mythology, have resisted the effect of 
time : portions of superb palaces still remain ; and 
an aqueduct, of sufficient dimensions for a man to 
walk upright in, yet exists almost entire. Pre- 
vious, however, to the arrival of the Spaniards, 
this province had so much declined from its an- 
cient splendour, that they found neither inhabited 
city nor building worthy of their attention, nor 
civilization or polity in the inhabitants. 

Remesal, continuing the history of the Chapa- 
necos from the place before cited, says, that the 
Indians who had migrated from Nicaragua, deter- 

p 



210 

mined upon remaining on the lands of Ghiapa, 
and made choice of a steep mountain with a 
rocky summit, near the margin of a river, and of 
very difiicult access, on which they settled their 
colony ; there they fortified themselves as strongly 
as they could, resolving never to submit to the 
dominion of the Mexicans. When the empire of 
the latter was overthrown, the Indians of Chiapa, 
in the name of themselves, and of the nations of 
the Zoques, Celtales, and Quelenes, whom they 
had brought under their subjection by force, 
made an offer to Cortes of acknowledging them- 
selves vassals of the king of Castile. The his- 
torian does not name the person who was de- 
puted by Cortes to receive this homage; but he 
says the natives were soon disgusted by the con- 
duct of the Spaniards, and revolted from their 
new allegiance in 1524. As soon as intelligence 
of this insurrection was brought to Cortes, he de- 
tached Diego de Mazariegos, with 150 soldiers 
and 40 horses, to quell it. The expedition was 
joined by many principal persons, who wished to 
withdraw from the disunion which had then com- 
menced in Mexico, and by a great number of 
Mexican and Tlascaltecan Indians. Mazariegos, 
by his prudence and moderation, easily and 
speedily persuaded the Chapanecos to submit; 
and immediately returned to Mexico, but with 
the design of coming back to settle in this pro- 
vince, to prevent future insubordination. During 
his absence, the Chapanecos again became refrac- 
tory, and the affairs of the Spaniards were placed 
in a situation much worse than they were during 
the first tumult. 

Bernal Diaz del Castillo, an author of veracity 



211 

and candour, narrates the events of this conquest, 
in which he says he took a part, circumstantially 
so different from the relation of Remesal, as to 
induce a belief, either that the latter had been 
misled by false information, or that three revolts 
took place in Chiapa, and the one described by 
Castillo was distinct from the two spoken of by 
Remesal. Castillo says, that being in the town of 
Guazacoalco with the captain^ Luis Martin, and 
other officers, Martin departed for Mexico, to 
have an interview with Cortes, who ordered him 
to take 30 soldiers, an ecclesiastic, named Juaa 
de Varillas, and all the inhabitants of Guaza- 
coalco, and proceed immediately to restore tran- 
quillity in the province of Chiapa, that was then 
in a state of open hostility. With this force he 
set forward, about the time of Lent in 1524 (but, 
adds Castillo, of the year I am not quite certain). 
After undergoing great fatigues they reached the 
village of Estapa, 4 leagues distant from the ca- 
pital. In this place they were attacked by the 
Chapanecos, and a very obstinate battle was 
fought, in which Martin, with 13 soldiers, were 
wounded, and 2 soldiers killed. Castillo says, the 
Chapanecos were the most formidable warriors 
that he had seen in New Spain. On the following 
day they continued their march towards the city 
of Chiapa, " and we had not advanced a quarter 
of a league," says Castillo, *' when we met with 
all the forces of Chiapa; the plains and hills were 
covered with them, all well armed and decorated 
with plumes ; it was terrible when they joined 
with us foot to foot, and began to fight like 
furious lions." The battle lasted a long time, 
until the horse being formed into squares, and the 

p 2 



infantry into solid bodies, to avoid the danger of 
being broken, they attacked the Indians repeat- 
edly, and finally succeeded in putting them to 
flight. After pursuing them a short distance, the 
Spaniards again encountered other formidable 
bodies of the enemy, who, in addition to their 
arms, were provided with long ropes, for the pur- 
pose of entangling the horses and throwing them 
down ; and^ in many places, they stretched nets 
to impede their movements. The combat was re- 
newed with great fury, 2 soldiers were killed, 
and many wounded ; but the Indians being again 
attacked by solid bodies as before, were entirely^ 
routed. After this victory, the Spaniards ad- 
vanced to a village near the river, which, although 
deep and rapid, they contrived to pass, with the 
assistance of the Xaltepeque Indians, in spite of 
the obstinate resistance of those of Chiapa, who 
were strong! j^ posted on the opposite bank, and 
continued their march directly to the city, which 
they found totally abandoned. Martin now sent 
to the caciques, and principal persons of the 
town, to offer them peace; allowing six leaders, 
vvho had been made prisoners, to accompany his 
messengers. After a short interval^ some of the 
Chapanecos came to him bringing a present 
of gold ; they endeavoured to excuse themselves 
for having commenced hostilities, and promised 
to return to their obedience. The Spanish com- 
mander then dispatched messengers to the neigh- 
bouring towns, inviting them to peace -these also 
sent deputations to offer their submission to the 
king of Spain, and shewed great satisfaction at 
being released from the dominion of the Cha- 
panecos. The Spaniards found in the town^ 



^13 

three prisons, formed of strong %vooden gratings, 
full of prisoners, who had been taken by the 
enemy in their retreat : they were a mixture of 
Soconuscans, Tegnantepeques, Zapotecas, and 
Quelenes, all of whom were set at liberty. The 
Indians of Xaltepeque and Istatlan, who were 
treated as slaves by the Chapanecos, because 
they had given assistance to the Spaniards, and 
provided canoes for them to pass the river, were 
liberated from the power of their tyrannical op- 
pressors ; and went afterward, with their wives, 
children, and property, to settle at a place on the 
bank of the river, about 10 leagues below Chiapa. 
In the cues, or places of worship, many idols 
were found, which Juan de Varillas caused to be 
burnt. As soon as the conquest of Chiapa, and 
such other towns as would not voluntarily accept 
of peace, was completed, measures were taken for 
establishing a town in the province, according tQ 
the directions of Cortes; but, on reflecting that 
there were only a few Spaniards, and, on the 
other hand, that the number of the Indians, wha 
might not yet be perfectly satisfied under their 
new masters, was very great, Martin deemed it 
most prudent to return with all his force to Gua-^ 
zacoalco. 

CHAP. X. 

Of the Foundation of Ciudad Real. 

About the end of the year 1526, when intel- 
ligence of the second revolt in the province of 
Chiapa reached Mexico, the treasurer, Alonzo de 
Estrada, was made governor and captain-general 
of New Spain ; and he immediately commissioned 



214 

Diego de Mazariegos to put an end to the tn- 
iiiults in Chiapa. This officer, accompanied by 
many persons of rank, arrived there ; and experi- 
enced so much opposition from the inhabitants, 
that all his exertions to reduce them to obedience 
were ineffectual. They intrenched themselves in 
strong places on the mountain ; which for some 
days they defended with extraordinary resolu- 
tion and bravery: being at length exhausted by 
fatigue and want of provisions^ and seeing their 
resistance hopeless, in their desperation, so many 
of them, with their wives and children, precipi- 
tated themselves from the highest part of the rock 
into the river and perished, that of the whole popu- 
lation, but little more than 2000 remained alive. 
Mazariegos permitted the survivors to descend 
from their fastness, and allowed them to settle on 
the banks of the river, where their village still re- 
tains the name of Chiapa de Indios. 

About this period, Pedro Portocarrero was 
captain-general of the province of Guatemala, in 
the absence of Pedro de Alvarado, and being in- 
formed of the disturbances in Chiapa, conceived 
it to be his duty, as being more immediate to that 
district than any other governor, to repair thither, 
and endeavour to restore tranquillity: he therefore 
put himself at the head of a considerable force, 
and advanced (not being sent thither, as Remesal 
says, by Pedro de Alvarado; for that officer had 
already departed on the 26th of August for Spain). 
Mazariegos, however, having arrived before him, 
and pacified the Indians, easily persuaded Porto- 
carrero to return; but offered to such soldiers of 
the latter as chose to remain, to divide the lands 
between them and his own soldiers, in equal pro- 



215 

portions, as there were sufficient for the whole: 
induced by these promises, many stayed with him. 
Mazariegos returned with his troops to the 
town of Chiapa; on the 1st of March, 1528, he 
marched from it again, and pitched his camp on 
the plain, about a league to the east ward^ where, by 
the assistance of the Indians, huts were construct- 
ed with branches of trees, &c. for their quarters: 
three days afterward, the commander assembled 
the principal officers of his little army, and ex- 
plained to them, that his object in forming this 
encampment, was the preservation of what had al- 
ready been gained by so much labour and fatigue : 
that he intended this only as a temporary situa- 
tion, until another, which would afford greater ad- 
vantages, could be found ; and as captain-general 
of the province, he designed to give the name of 
Villa Real to the new town, in honour of his na- 
tive place, Ciudad Real, in Spain. He then ap- 
pointed Luis de Luna, and Pedro de Horozco, to 
the office of alcaldes ; Pedro de Estrada, Fran- 
cisco Gil, Francisco de Lintorne, Alonzo de Agui- 
lar, Francisco de Chaves, and Bernardino de Co- 
ria, to that of regidors ; Christoval de Morales, 
major-domo; Juan de Porras, procurator; and 
Antonio de la Torre, alguacil mayor. On the 6th 
of March, in a council composed of the foregoing 
members, among many other things, it was deter- 
mined to issue a proclamation, that persons who 
wished to become freemen of the intended town^ 
might enter their names in the council-book, which 
should entitle them to enjoy all the liberties and 
franchises peculiar to freemen. In another, held 
on the 14th of March, the commander, the alcaldes, 
and regidors, entered their names as freemen, and 



^16 

bourid themselves, by an engagement, to reside ia 
the town : the alguacil mayor, the major-domo, 
and others, to the number of 40, immediately 
afterward did the same. 

The formalities of founding the new town being 
thus concluded, the next requisite steps were to 
give it a material existence. On the 31st of March, 
1528, the army being drawn up on a large plain, 
called by the Indians Gueizacatlan, the spot 
where the present Ciudad Real stands, the go- 
vernor's lieutenant, the alcaldes, and regidors, re- 
presented to the assembly, that as the place where 
the town had been provisionally established was 
not, from its hot and unhealthy climate and mar- 
shy situation, well calculated to ensure either per- 
manence or increase^ it became necessary to re- 
move to another, where the requisite local good 
qualities could be found ; and that after careful 
examination of the surrounding country, the plain 
of Gueizacatlan presented all the advantages that 
could be desired; the climate was temperate and 
healthy, the soil dry and fertile, with a river, and 
springs of excellent water, meadows, and fine pas- 
ture lands for grazing cattle, and mountains co- 
vered with wood. On this spot, therefore, they 
determined to found Villa Real deChiapa; the 
great square, the streets, the church, town-house, 
and several residences for the citizens, were then 
marked out ; the pillory was ordered to be erected 
in the square, and a gallows on the summit of a 
hill : thus with all judicial etiquette the town 
Avas founded. On the following days, lands were 
distributed to the inhabitants. On the 22nd of 
, August, they began to assign lots of ground to the 
army, in proportions of 600 feet in length by 300 



217 

in breaitlth, to each horseman, and half that quan- 
tity to the foot soldiers. 

In the year 1529, the royal audiencia of Mexi- 
co sent Don Juan Eoriquez de Guzman to fill 
the office of alcalde mayor, with power to inquire 
into the administration of Mazariegos : this func- 
tionary excited great dissatisfaction among the 
inhabitants, by taking from the conquerors the 
rewards that had been bestowed on them, and 
conferring the same upon those whom he had 
brought with him from Mexico ; he even deprived 
Mazariegos himself of the village of Cbiapa : the 
latter immediately quitted the province, and pro- 
ceeded to Mexico. So great was the ill-will of 
Guzman towards Mazariegos, that to display his 
enmity to him, he attended a council on the 21st 
July, 1529, and persuaded the members to change, 
by a public act, the name of the town from Villa 
Real to that of Villa Viciosa; the latter, however, 
was only used 2 years: for, in 1531, at a council 
which sat on the 11th of September, the place was 
spoken of as the town of St. Christoval de los 
Llanos. At what precise time, or from what cause, 
this name was adopted, is now unknown, because 
several leaves of the book, containing the minutes 
.of council at this period, have been lost or de- 
stroyed. By an edict, dated 7th July, 1536, the 
Emperor Charles the Fifth ordered the name to 
be changed to Ciudad Real, and granted to it all 
the honours and privileges of a city. 

The inhabitants of this city carry the royal 
standard in grand procession on the day of St. 
Christopher, its patron; how this ceremony origi- 
nated, is not now known. Many of the old coun- 
cil records of the city she^y that the original found- 



218 

eris displayed much affected, if but little real 
piety, with their bravery and fierceness; on the 
31st of May, 1532, there is an order for the pay- 
ment of tithes; another of 30th of June, 1528, 
commands notice to be given to the curate of the 
city to celebrate mass every day, and in default of 
so doing, his appointed salary would be stopped. 
On the 1st of June, 1537, a series of ordinances 
was promulgated; one of which prohibited the 
employment of Indians in any kind of labour on 
Sundays, and principal holidays, under a penalty 
of three dollars; another inflicted a fine of ten 
dollars upon every citizen who should absent 
himself during the celebration of Easter ; another 
imposed a fine of three dollars upon every Spa- 
niard found out of church after the gospel had 
been read at mass. The records furnish many 
regulations for promoting the cleanliness and 
good government of the town, that are very well 
worthy of being imitated in modern times; on 
the 26th of May, 152B, it was ordered that any 
person driving mares, colts, or hogs, through the 
streets, should forfeit a gold dollar, towards the 
expense of building the church, or the animals to 
be confiscated ; on the 30th of June, every person 
was forbidden from throwing any kind of filth into 
the streets, under penalty of a gold dollar; on the 
22d of August, all persons were authorized to kill 
any pigs they might discover in the maize-fields 
belonging to the Indians. A very useful order 
was issued on the 4th of January, 1539, for the in- 
struction of Indians ; every person who held a 
public employment was obliged to have the male 
children of the Indian chiefs, residing within his 
jurisdiction, brought to his house for the purpose 



219 

of being initialed in the doctrines of the Christian 
religion. Many other orders, equally judicious 
and beneficial, might be cited. 



CHAP. XL 

T/ie District of Svconusco. 

The first region of this kingdom, into which 
Pedro de Alvarado penetrated, and the first In- 
dian villages that were reduced by him to the 
Spanish dominion, were those of Soconusco. 
This district, which in the present day is so much 
neglected, was, in former times, one of the most 
populous and opulent of the kingdom ; the cocoa 
produced in it is still considered superior to that 
of any other place in the world, and is preferred 
for the consumption of the royal household. The 
ancient capital was the large town of Soconusco 
(from which the province took its name), situated 
between the villages of St. Domingo de Escuintia 
and Acacozagna. Besides the Indian population, 
it was the residence of about 200 Spaniards ; but 
upwards of two centuries have now elapsed since 
this extensive town fell to decay, and was entirely 
abandoned : the same fate has attended many 
other villages of the district. Previous to the 
province of Soconusco being annexed to the in- 
tendancy of Ciudad Real, it was distinguished 
as a government, a title given to the largest pro- 
vinces only, and which sufficiently shews the es- 
timation in which it was held. 

Like the rest of the kingdom, Soconusco was 
imder the jurisdiction of the royal audiencia of 
Mexico, arid even after the establishment of that 



220 

of the confines of Guatemala and Nicaragua, it 
remained in the Mexican district until 1553, 
when by an edict, dated 20th of January, it was 
annexed to the royal chancery of Guatemala. 
When this court was transferred to the city of 
Panama, Soconusco reverted to the audiencia of 
Mexico; but another edict on the 25th of January, 
1569, restored it to Guatemala. It is most pro- 
bable, that, in the spiritual concerns of the pro- 
vince, it was at first, as well as Ciudad Real, 
within the diocess of TIascala, but as soon as the 
bishoprick of Guatemala w^as created, it was trans- 
ferred to that diocess: Remesal mentions (lib. 6, 
cap. 13,) having' seen there chalices and other 
utensils of silver, bearing the arms of Marroquin, 
bishop of Guatemala. On the petition of Pedro 
de la Pena^ bishop of Verapaz, the supreme coun- 
cil of the Indies was induced to place the districts 
of the Sierra de Sacapulas, Saloma, Sacatepe- 
ques, and Soconusco, within his diocess; but Phi- 
lip the Second, on the representation of the pro- 
curator of the city of Guatemala, rescinded the 
determination of the council, and ordered the 
same districts to be restored to the bishoprick of 
Guatemala: this took place about the year 1564. 
The bishop of Chiapa, Pedro de Feria, having 
explained^ in a very satisfactory manner, that the 
province would derive considerable advantages 
from being united to his jurisdiction, the transfer 
was ordered in 1592, when Andres de Ubilla was 
consecrated bishop of Ciudad Real : this edict ar- 
rived at Guatemala in 1596, and from that period 
Soconusco has belonged to the diocess of Chiapa. 
In 1700, the Licentiate Francisco de la Madriz, 
a fugitive from New Spain, came into the pro,- 



221 

vince, and speedily excited the inhabitants to re- 
volt. Gabriel Sanchez de Berrospe, then go- 
vernor of Guatemala, sent the oidor, Pedro de 
Eguaras Fernandez de Yxas, to appease the tu- 
mult, and use every exertion to seize La Madriz : 
for this purpose, the oidor was appointed the cap- 
tain-general's lieutenant, and had a competent 
number of troops, well provided with military- 
stores, placed under his command. This force 
was at first repulsed by the rebels ; but in a sub- 
sequent attack Madriz, and his accomplices were 
compelled to seek safety by flight, and the peace 
of the province was restored. In this expedition, 
the principal ofHcers of the army were Juan An- 
tonio Dighero, Juan Ignacio de Uria, and the ad- 
jutant-general Pedro de Iturbide yiizc ona. 



CHAP. XIT. 

Reconquest of the Province of Tzendales. 

This event has already been briefly alluded to 
in a former chapter ; but on reflecting that it is a 
portion of the history requiring a little more ex- 
tension, we shall endeavour to give a more circum- 
stantial narrative of it, without entering too mi- 
nutely into particulars. 

In the year 1712, the Indians of the 32 villages 
in the province of Tzendales having conceived a 
violent dislike to the Spaniards, determined to 
expel them from the territory ; for this purpose 
they assembled at the village of Cancuc, with a 
resolution to destroy every individual who did 
not belong to their nation. Nicholas Colindres, 
Marcos de Lambarii, Simon de Lara, and Juan 



Torres, all belonging to the order of Dominicans, 
besides many other ecclesiastics, were put to cruel 
deaths : they abandoned the tenets of Christianity, 
and resumed all their ancient Pagan rites. The 
greatest animosity of these exasperated Indians, 
was directed against the inhabitants of Ciiidad 
Real; animated by the desire of vengeance, they 
advanced within 6 leagues of it, and encamped afc 
the village of Giustan. The inhabitants being 
without sufficient force to resist an infuriated 
body of 15,000 savages, with much probability of 
success, determined however to make the best 
dispositions in their power for an obstinate de- 
fence, — courage and superstition are not incom- 
patible with each other; they therefore addressed 
solemn prayers to their saints for assistance, and 
fighting bravely, were able, though their number 
was small, to repel the attacks of the enemy until 
the captain-general arrived with a body of troops, 
to rescue them from the impending danger; by 
this reinforcement the Indians were attacked, a 
decisive victory obtained over them, and soon 
after v^'ard peace was completely restored. This 
success being achieved with very trifling loss, was 
gratefully attributed to the miraculous interposi- 
tion of the divine hierarchy ; but the captain- 
general, Don Torribio Cosio, traDsoiitted an ac- 
count of his operations to the king of Spain, in 
which he assigned more probable causes of the 
fortunate result: the affair was considered of so 
much importance, that the king on tlie 9th of 
December, 1713, returned his thanks for the zeal 
that had been shewn in suppressing this danger- 
ous tumult, accompanied by marks of his royal 
favour to Don Juan Alvarez de Toledo, bishop 



223 

of Chiapa, to the oidor Don Diego Banos, to tli« 
auditor of the war department, and to other 
persons whose exertions had given success to the 
expedition. In another communication addressed 
to the captain-general, on the 24th of April, 1714, 
containing his majesty's approbation of what had 
been so ably executed, he was pleased to add, 
"and in token of my satisfaction with your ex- 
ertions, I think it right to confer upon you the 
honour of a title of Castile for yourself and your 
family." The governor was farther charged to 
provide those, who had contributed by their 
efforts to the victory on this important day, with 
public employments as speedily as possible.. 
Honours and emoluments were not yet exhausted; 
for by another order of February 24, 1715, the 
king commanded that as the first victory, by 
which the Spanish arms opened the way to a 
complete reduction of the revolted provinces, 
was obtained on the 21st of November, the day 
of the presentation of the Holy Virgin, the same 
was to be annually observed in the cathedrals of 
Guatemala and Ciudad Real, as a high festival 
and solemn thanksgiving; the expenses of which 
were to be defrayed out of the royal revenues : in 
consequence of this mark of peculiar favour, the 
festival has been ever since celebrated with all 
possible splendour. 



CHAP. xin. . 

Of the first Establishment, and Progress of the 
Pipil Indians on the Coast of the Pacific Ocean, 

AuTZOL, the 8th king of Mexico, having been 
repulsed in hiy attempt to subdue the powerful 



2M 

nations of the Quiches, Karchiquels, Mames, 
Tzendals, Qiielenes, and Sapotecas, by force, en- 
deavoured to accomplish his object by stratagena : 
the commencement of his plan was to send a great 
number of Indians, under the direction of a chief 
and four subordinate officers, who were directed 
to introduce themselves by degrees into the 
country, under the disguise of merchants, and 
settle where they could along the coast of the 
Pacific Ocean. By this contrivance he expected 
to have a strong party ready to assist him, when- 
ever he found it convenient to make an irruption 
into the country : his death, however, put an end 
to his designs, almost at their very beginning. 
The Indians, who had thus obtained a footing, 
were Mexicans of the very lowest cast, speaking 
a corrupt dialect of the Mexican, with a childish 
pronunciation : this circumstance gave rise to their 
name of Pipiles, a word, in the Mexican language, 
signifying children. In a short time these Pipiles 
multiplied immensely, and spread over the pro- 
vinces of Zonzonate, St. Salvador, and St. Miguel; 
a fact proved by the great number of villages in 
these districts, to which the Pipil language is 
vernacular. 

From the vast increase of the Pipil population, 
the Quiches and Kachiqnels began to fear they 
would soon become formidable enough to assume 
the sovereignty of the territory, ihey inhabited^ 
and therefore sought every opportunity of oppress- 
ing them. The Pipiles on the other hand, were 
not less determined to preserve their newly ac- 
quired possessions, and maintain the credit of 
their arms ; accordingly they resolved, (but as the 
Pipil manuscript, fol. 2, says, not without secret 



225 

advice) to establish a military force in the same 
manner as had been prescribed by Autzol. It 
happened, however, that the chiefs of these troops, 
who held the supreme authority of the nation, 
exerted it tyrannically over the people, by exact- 
ing excessive tributes, and practising enormous 
extortions. These were rendered still more galling 
by the conduct of the principal cacique Cuauc- 
michin, who attempted to introduce the practice 
of human sacrifices, according to the rites of the 
Mexican idolatry, and as an unequivocal proof of 
his intention, seized some men, who were held in 
high estimation by the whole commimity, for his 
devoted victims. Exasperated by an act so atro- 
cious, the people suddenly attacked the residence 
of Cuaucmichin, and in their fury beat him to 
death with clubs and stones. After this mark of 
resentment, they chose as their chief cacique, 
Tutecotzimit, a man of a mild, peaceable disposi- 
tion, possessing much experience and skill in the 
arts of government ; ,of their own authority, also, 
they deposed all the other chiefs, and reduced 
them to the class of alahuaes, or heads oicalpuls, 
Tutecotzimit thus raised to the throne, and 
finding himself highly respected by his subjects, 
conceived the ambitious design of perpetuating 
the sovereignty in his own family ; in furtherance 
of this object he created a council of 8 members, 
whom he selected from the nobles, admitting no 
one who was not either allied, or well affected to 
him. These counsellors were invested with cer- 
tain jurisdictions over the people, and he pre- 
scribed long robes of particular colours to be 
worn, to distinguish them from the caciques and 
other chief officers, the use of which was inter- 

Q 



dieted to every other rank. He appointed a great 
number of subaltern functionaries, all taken from 
the class of the nobility, to carry into effect the 
orders of the senate. The first act of this supreme 
<30uncil, was to relieve the people from a great 
portion of their tributes and contributions ; by 
which means Tutecotzimit became popular, and 
much respected by his subjects: his ambition 
was now gratified without opposition, as the 
sovereignty was solemnly declared to be vested 
in him, his sons, and descendants, according to 
regulations to be thereafter established. 

This act accomplished, the next object was 
to prepare laws for the good government of the 
people ; the first deliberation was on the subject 
of defence, and Pilguanzimit, the eldest son of 
Tutecotzimit, was appointed generalissimo, with 
4 ministers of war as his council, to assist with 
their advice and experience in all military ar- 
rangements. The succession to the throne came 
next under consideration, when it was resolved, 
that on the demise of the prince, his eldest son 
should ascend the throne; but, in the event of the 
latter not having attained a sufficient age for as- 
suming the direction of public affairs, the bro- 
ther, or nearest relative of the deceased sovereign, 
on the election of the senate, should be raised to 
the supreme dignity. As soon as the young prince 
should arrive at the necessary age, the council 
were to inquire into his capacity for governing 
the state, and promoting the good of his subjects: 
if he did not possess the requisite talents for so 
arduous a charge, the right of succession was to 
devolve to the second son ; but, in default of this 
branchj the council were to elect the next nearest 



227 

relative, provided he was adorned with the vir- 
tues requisite for such a station, had distinguished 
himself in war, and other employments, by valour 
and application to the affairs of the state. Females 
were excluded from the succession, it being 
deemed incompatible with good policy, that a 
stranger should obtain supreme authority by 
marriage; but this exclusion did not extend to 
the inheritance of property, as lands, houses, 
slaves, &c. It was also provided, by a law, that 
to all employments, either civil or military, none 
but nobles could be preferred; and these were to 
rise through the gradations of inferior offices to 
the superior dignities. A code of penal laws was 
also established. Robbers were punished by per- 
petual banishment; murderers were thrown from 
the top of a high rock ; and to crimes of less 
magnitude, punishments, conformable at once to 
reason and public justice, were assigned. These 
are evidences sufficient to shew the policy and 
prudence of a race of men, whose posterity, in 
their present neglected and degenerate state, it is 
the custom to call hebete, incapable of instruc- 
tion, and barbarous. 



CHAP. XIV. 

The Conquest of the Provinces on the Coast of 
the Pacific, 

Pedro de Alvauado penetrated into the king- 
dom of Guatemala by the province of Soconusco, 
where he had many obstacles to overcome, and 
experienced great resistance from the Indians of 
Tonala, and other villages of that district; hav- 

q2 



228 

ing subdued these, and conquered the whole pro- 
vince, he advanced into Sapotltlan, now Suchil- 
tepeques, which he soon overran, and compelled 
the natives to promise obedience to the king of 
Spain. His next route was to Qnezaltenango, 
Utatlan, and ultimately to Guatemala, where he 
was amicably received ; being well treated by 
the Kachiquels, he founded the capital of the 
kingdom. In this station he remained some time 
to refresh his army, which, after so many severe 
battles and unexampled fatigues, was much in 
need of repose. 

While he sojourned here, emissaries from se- 
veral caciques of the Pipil nation came to offer 
their submission as vassals to the Spanish mo- 
narch ; at the same time they informed him, tbat 
the people of Escuintepeque, or Escuintla, who 
were malicious and ill-intentioned to all the sur- 
rounding tribes, would not suffer those who were 
friends to the Christians to pass through their 
territories. Alvarado required no other incite- 
ment than this to attack them. He set out im- 
mediately on this expedition, attended by some 
Spanish troops, and a large body of Kachiquels : 
his advance was laborious in the extreme; for as 
there was no intercourse between the natives of 
Guatemala and the Pipiles, roads were unknown ; 
and the difficulties experienced in clearing his 
way were so great, that on one day he was unable 
to proceed more than 2 leagues : but although 
the impediments were numerous, and his progress 
so painful, courage and constancy so far pre- 
vailed, that on the third night he succeeded in 
pitching his camp near the large village of Escu- 
intepeque, without being discovered by the inha- 



259 

bitants. This night was dark, with much rain ; 
and while the Escuintecos, ignorant of the ap- 
proach of danger, were enjoying profound repose, 
they were aroused by tbe call to arms from three 
different quarters : dismayed by these unexpected 
attacks, many of them fled to the mountains, but 
the principal persons, and the heads of calpuls, 
retreated to some strong houses, which they bar- 
ricadoed, and there defended themselves bravely 
for a long time, wounding several of the Spa- 
niards, and killing many of the auxiliary Indians. 
Alvarado, perceiving there was no appearance of 
surrender, after five hours of obstinate fighting, 
set fire to the village in several places, but this 
did not produce the desired submission ; he then 
sent a message to the principal cacique, declar- 
ing, that unless they immediately yielded to the 
authority of the king of Spain, he would cut up 
and destroy their plantations of cocoa, and fields 
of maize : intimidated by this menace, they sur- 
rendered and swore obedience. Alvarado re- 
mained several days at Escuintla, and prevailed 
upon the principal Indians to recall to their 
homes those who were dispersed and wandering 
in the mountains, and to repair the injuries occa- 
sioned by the fire. During this period, several of 
the other villages of the district, which was then 
much more populous and flourishing than it now 
is, sent deputies to offer submission. 

Eight days were spent in these operations ; 
after which Alvarado left Escuintepeque with all 
his force, now consisting of 250 Spanish infantry, 
100 cavalry, and 6000 Indians of Guatemala, 
Tlascalteca, Mexico, and Choluteca, and conti- 
nued his victorious progress. The River Micha- 



230 

toyat was the first impediment in his march, but 
this, although with great difficulty, was surmount- 
ed, by constructing a temporary bridge. Having 
crossed the river, a large body of Indians of Ati- 
quipaque advanced to oppose him, and an ob- 
stinate engagement began, in which one of the 
enemy's leaders wounded Alvarado's horse with 
a lance ; the general being dismounted, attacked 
the Indian on foot, and killed him ; victory re- 
mained a long time doubtful, but was finally de- 
cided in favour of the Spaniards. On the follow- 
ing day they entered the village of Atiquipaque, 
which they found entirely deserted : they had not 
been long there, before they were again attacked 
in it by another fresh body of Indians, who sus- 
tained a fierce and protracted conflict : the Spa- 
niards fighting at disadvantage while cooped up 
in the village, found it necessary to make a sortie 
in order to gain the open ground ; they were fol- 
lowed by the Indians, who^ by this hasty move- 
ment, vi^ere thrown into confusion ; the Spaniards 
seized the favourable chance which this disorder 
offered, and by a well-directed charge secured 
the fortune of the day. The enemy fed in all 
directions, and Alvarado pursued his march to 
attack Taxisco, a place equally as populous and 
important as the preceding one: to retard his 
progress, the enemy had cut many deep trenches 
in the way he had to pass, and artfully covered 
them over ; these, at first, occasioned some loss, 
and forced him to proceed with great caution : 
they also formed several ambuscades, and as the 
troops passed, they attacked and killed many of 
the auxiliary Indians, who marched in the rear. 
To guard against similar assaults, Alvarado di- 



231 

vided the cavalry, and stationed a part of it in 
the rear to protect and encourage his allies. As 
soon as the advanced division of horse arrived 
near Taxisco, the whole army halted, and was 
almost immediately attacked in its position by 
three strong corps of the enemy ; one descending 
from the heights of Nextiquipaque, another salr 
lied from the village of Taxisco, and the third 
came from Gnazacapan. In this unexpected 
crisis, it required all the bravery of the Spanish 
soldiers, and all the skill of their indefatigable com- 
mander, to resist the impetuosity of such a mul- 
titude of exasperated and warlike enemies. Cou* 
rage and discipline however prevailed : the di- 
vision from Guazacapan quickly deserted the 
field ; that which had descended from the moun- 
tains was broken and put to flight ; that from 
Taxisco, being [abandoned, submitted, and the 
town remained in possession of the Spaniards. 

Alvarado lost not a moment in proceeding 
against Guazacapan, that the inhabitants might 
not have time to prepare for its defence; but this 
expectation was disappointed, for being the chief 
place of the district, all its dependants and allies 
from Nextiquipaque, Chiquimulilla, Guaimanga, 
and Guanagazapa, had been already called to its 
assistance ; and it was thus well provided with 
the means of opposing a vigorous resistance; but 
this immense multitude could not withstand the 
steady resolution of the assailants, and was com- 
pletely routed after a smart contest. Guazaca- 
pan was deserted by its inhabitants, and during 
8 days that the Spaniards remained in it, they 
were unable to prevail upon the natives to return 
and accept their friendship ; the advantages 



2S2 

gained in these hard-fought battles, were there-' 
fore of little use, and this district remained un- 
subdued until 1526, when the Indians, dispirited 
by the many and severe losses they had sustained, 
submitted to Pedro Portocarrero, the ordinary 
alcalde of Guatemala, whom Alvarado, on his 
return to Europe, had left as his lieutenant-go- 
Ternor. A singular custom of the Indians of Gua- 
zacapan, in fighting with little bells in their 
hands, may be mentioned here, but all inquiries 
were useless to discover the reason of this extras 
ordinary practice. 

The army continued its march towards Pazaco ; 
the reduction of which place was attended with 
considerable difficulty, on account of its situation, 
and the powerful support it received from the 
neighbouring towns of Sinacantan, Nancinta, Te- 
cuaco, and others more distant ; but more parti- 
cularly from the large and deep river de Esclavos, 
which intercepted the march. Dangers and diffi- 
culties served only to increase the ardour of the 
Spaniards, and they resolutely proceeded. The 
Indians had recourse to all the stratagems they 
could devise to impede their advance ; among 
other contrivances, they placed great numbers of 
"what would now be called a species of caltrops 
in the way by which the troops were to pass; and 
the feet both of men and horses were grievously 
"wounded by them : the injury did not stop here; 
for many of these points being poisoned, occa- 
sioned, in two or three days, the death of those 
"who were wounded by them, with all the agonies 
of an insatiable thirst. 

On discovering this annoyance, the Spaniards 
left the route they were then pursuing; and making 



233 

a detour, reached the Rio de EsclaVos in another 
direction ; they passed it, but whether by fording, 
or by constructing a bridge, is not now known. 
This difficulty surmounted, they marched without 
farther obstacles to the vicinity of Pazaco, where 
the enemy was posted in great force, and defended 
the approach to the place with such heavy dis- 
charges of arrows, lances, and stones, as almost 
made the troops despair of conquest. A despe- 
rate battle followed, and both sides fought a long 
time with unyielding gallantry. At length the 
Indians, finding they could make no impression 
upon the ardour and discipline of their antagonists, 
and having exhausted all their military skill with- 
out reaping any advantages, turned their backs, 
and fled in despair to the mountains. But this 
victory did not entirely decide the conquest of 
the district: for although some of the towns sub- 
mitted to the Europeans, others, in strong force, 
still retained their native governments and liberty. 
Among those that sought for peace, was the 
large town of Texutla, four leagues from Gua- 
zacapan, which was taken possession of, and af- 
terward served the conquerors as a place of arms. 
Before the conquest, this was a place of great im- 
portance, and the government of it was intrusted 
to three independent chiefs ; but after that event 
it soon lost its ancient consequence, gradually de- 
clined, and about the middle of the 17th century, 
ceased to be the habitation of men. 

The historian Francisco de Fuentes asserts, 
that in this campaign Alvarado traversed no less 
than 400 leagues of country : such a circumstance 
leads to a belief, that in this single expedition, he 
overran the provinces of Zonzonate, Cuscatlan, 



234 

now St. Salvador, and Chaparrastique, or St. Mi- 
quel. But as that author wrote the account of 
these provinces in the third part of his work (which 
part was unfortunately lost a few years after his 
death), there do not remain sufficient materials 
for giving a circumstantial detail of the events of 
this extraordinary expedition : the only informa- 
tion at all connected with it, is to be found in the 
records of the cabildo of the city of Guatemala ; 
from which it appears, that on the 8th of January, 
1525, Alvarado bad returned thither, as he was 
present at a council held on that day. It must 
indeed remain as a striking proof of extraordinary 
perseverance and courage, both in himself and his 
followers, that in so short a space of time, he was 
enabled to subjugate so vast an extent of territo- 
ry, defended as it was by such multitudes of war- 
like natives ; for at that period, the population 
exceeded in numerical strength its present amount, 
which w^ould be insignificant in the comparison. . 
It has been already remarked, that the Spa- 
niards were forced to leave some of the native 
tribes unsubdued. One of these, that occupied 
the village of Jumais, being of a turbulent dispo- 
sition, and always occasioning much trouble to 
their native governors, now found abundant oc- 
cupation for the Spanish arms. At one time they 
confederated with the people of Jalpatagua, and 
at others with those of Petapa, and the neighbour- 
ing places, by which they employed the troops in 
frequent and fatiguing expeditions. A military 
council was therefore called, to determine upon 
the best means of depriving the people of Jumais 
of the power of future aggression, as the only re- 
medy to prevent frequent losses. The result of 



235 

thir deliberation was, to equip a force of 80 Spa- 
nish infantry, 30 cavalry, and 1000 auxiliary In- 
dians, the command of which was intrusted to 
Juan Perez Dardon. 

These troops marched from Guatemala, and 
arriving at the Rio de Esclavos, found both banks 
of it defended by the Indians of the towns of Si- 
nacantan and Esclavos. In this posture of affairs, 
it did not appear to the commander a prudent 
measure to attempt crossing the river, and have to 
contend against the violence of the current, and the 
force of the enemy at the same time; he therefore 
quitted his position, and directed his course to- 
wards Guatemala, as if in retreat, but doubling in 
the rear of some mountains, again advanced to- 
wards the river, and reaching it at a place consider- 
ably above the enemy's post, where it was quite 
unguarded ; he hastily constructed a bridge, by 
which he crossed without accident. On his march 
to the valley of Jumais, he was attacked by a 
strong body of Indians, who, after fighting some 
time, retreated to a hill, followed by the Spaniards i 
this retrograde movement answered their expec- 
tations; the Spaniards, eagerly pursuing, were 
drawn into an ambush prepared for them — as 
soon as they began to ascend the hill, they were 
unexpectedly assailed by a shower of stones and 
other missiles, from which they received much in- 
jury ; these discharges were repeated in quick 
succession, until the Indians had exhausted all 
their ammunition : the Spaniards then advanced, 
soon compelled them to abandon the post, anc} 
established themselves upon the eminence. 

Tonaltet, cacique of Jumais, seeingtheSpaniards 
in possession of this hill, sent messengers to Dar- 



236 

don, offering to submit, and requesting the com-^ 
mander to pay him a visit at his village ; but the 
latter discovering the cacique was meditating an 
act of treachery, ordered the messengers to tell 
him that his duplicity was plainly perceived. As 
his stratagem had been disconcerted, Tonaltet 
threw off the mask, and advanced with a numerous 
body of Indians belonging to the neighbouring 
villages, and those in alliance with him, whom he 
had assembled for the defence of his capital, to 
give the Spaniards battle, confiding in his num- 
bers for undoubted success; his expectations were 
disappointed, he was defeated, and compelled to 
fly, leaving on the field a great many men, both 
killed and wounded. The Spanish force took 
possession of the village, which the enemy had 
totally deserted : some prisoners were liberated, 
and sent in search of the fugitives, with offers of 
pardon and peace, but the messengers being dis- 
missed with a peremptory refusal of both, the vil- 
lage was set on fire; parties were sent in pursuit 
of the Indians, wandering in disorder from place 
to place, by which many prisoners were brought 
in, and among them several caciques : it was de- 
termined to punish the obstinacy of these persons, 
by branding them as slaves, in order to deter 
others from similar resistance: this being the first 
instance of treating any of the natives in this man- 
ner, the place where they resided was called Pue- 
blo de los Esclavos (the village of slaves). 



23T 



CHAP. XV. 

Of some remai^kahle Objects in the Province of 
Escuintla. 

The province of Escuintla presents many things 
worthy of notice : some of them are natural ca- 
riosities, as La Pefia de Mirandilla (the rock of 
Mirandilla), and the bar of Istapa ; others are 
to be found in the animal and vegetable king- 
doms, and the bridge over the river de Esclavos 
may be ranked as an artificial curiosity. 

La Peiia de Mirandilla is a huge promontory of 
live rock, so lofty as to be seen at many leagues 
distance. The summit of it is, in shape, a most 
correct resemblance of a large trunk, or chest; 
and what appears to be the lid, is perforated 
from side to side so exactly as to admit of the 
light passing through it : these openings have un- 
doubtedly been made by lightning; as, either 
from the great elevation of this vast pile, or from 
tliB metallic attraction of its mass, in which many 
veins of tin are apparent, the electric fluid is in- 
variably observed to strike against its surface, in 
the frequent thunder-storms that take place in 
this part. 

La Barra de Istapa (or the bar of Istapa) has 
been memorable ever since the time of Alvarado's 
government. In this place he equipped his ar- 
maments, in the years 1534 and 1539; building, 
in the first mentioned year, 5 ships, and in the 
latter, 13. The place is highly deserving of 
notice in a commercial point of view, as it affords 
every convenience and advantage for carrying 
on an extensive traffic in the Pacific. Its con- 



238 

tiguity to the city of Guatemala, would enable 
speculators to obtain all the productions of the 
country at a moderate rate, which could be con- 
veyed by land-carriages to the place of embarka- 
tion at a trifling expense, on a road that was open- 
ed and levelled in 1539, by the Regidor Antonio 
de Salazar, for the purpose of transporting, upon 
carriages, some of Alvarado's small vessels ; as 
appears by an official document in the cabildo, 
dated 31st of January of that year. There is ex- 
cellent anchorage, well sheltered on every point: 
there are neither reefs nor shallows, and the en- 
trance perfectly safe and easy. A redoubt, with 
4 or 6 pieces of cannon, would afford protection 
to the shipping; and, for the construction of such 
a defence, there are many eligible points. With 
respect to ship-building, the advantages are of 
still greater importance ; as wood of the best 
quality is found in the vicinity, in quantities 
inexhaustible: for the fertility of the land is so 
great, and its quality so peculiarly adapted to the 
growth of timber, that, after a tree is felled, the 
root will send out 5 or 6 shoots that, in 4 years, 
become trees of considerable girt and height. 
The cedars are of immense size; some of them 
so large as to exceed 7 fathoms in circumference. 
The wood called Palo de Maria (excellent for 
masts), is in very great abundance. Cordage is 
still more plentiful ; for, on every part of this 
coast, the pita grows luxuriantly and profusely: 
it is much superior, for the manufacture of cables 
and other ropes, to the esparto (genista hispa- 
nica of Ray). Pitch and tar are both good and 
cheap in the valley of Jumais, only a short dis- 
stance from the port. Freights of cocoa, and 



239 

other articles of agricultural produce, planks of 
cedar, and caoba, or red wood, so much esteemed 
in other countries for cabinet work, may be pro- 
cured here to almost any extent. Notwithstand- 
ing all the inducements and facilities for carrying 
on an important traffic, which this place offers, 
but little success has hitherto attended the va- 
rious experiments which have been tried ; and it is 
found in the records of the cabildo, that attempts 
were made to take advantage of these benefits as 
early as 1590, 1591, and 1596. 

The bridge over the Rio de los Esclavos is 
the best and handsomest in the kingdom ; it has 
been already described in the geographical ac- 
count of the river, but the history of it will not be 
misplaced here. As the river is of great depth, 
it often happened that, in the rainy seasons, it was 
so much swelled as to cut off the communication 
between the capital and the eastern provinces, to 
the serious injury of both. To avoid these incon- 
veniencies, the procurator syndic, Balthasar de 
Orena, presented a petition, in the year 1579, for 
permission to build a bridge over it; particularly 
representing that many lives were annually lost, 
by inconsiderate persons attempting to pass dur- 
ing the floods. This request remained unat- 
tended to until 1591, when it was renewed by the 
syndic Gabriel Mexia; and, on the 16th of Ja- 
nuary, Pedro de Solorzano was commissioned to 
survey the river. This service being performed, 
and a report presented, a council was held on the 
8th November following, in which it was resolved 
to carry the work into effect, and to defray the 
expense of it by laying an impost upon wine. The 
cities of St. Salvador, St. Miguel, and the town 



240 

of Zonzonate, were ordered, by the governor, to 
contribute their quotas towards the building, as 
they were, in fact, more interested in the com- 
pletion of the undertaking than the capital it- 
self. This important work was begun on the 
17th of February, 1592, by the architects Fran- 
cisco Tirado and Diego Felipe, acting under the 
orders of Rodrigo de Fuentes y Guzman, who 
was that year ordinary alcalde. Such w^as the 
activity with which the operations were carried 
on, that the bridge was nearly completed during 
the year. It was very substantially constructed of 
hewn stone; yet the strength of the current, and 
the overwhelming weight of the floods, in a few 
years, so much injured some of the arches, that 
the passage became dangerous, and, in a short 
time afterward, impracticable. In 1626, Diego 
de Acuiia, president of the royal audiencia, or- 
dered it to be repaired and strengthened. This 
was done in a manner so ineffectual, as to re- 
quire a repetition in less than 10 years. In 1636, 
the marquis of Lorenzana, the governor, on the 
26th of January, gave to Francisco de Fuentes y 
Guzman, full power to repair the damages which 
the bridge had suffered ; with this commission, 
the alcalde consulted the architect, and they de- 
termined to construct a bastion in the middle of 
the river, which, by its angular point, would turn 
the current more directly through the arches, and 
prevent the large trunks of trees, often brought 
down by the stream, from lodging against the 
piers, and doing them injury ; as, by striking first 
against the bastion, they would be precipitated 
endways through the bridge. The whole expense 
of this repair was defrayed by the city of Guate- 



241 

mala. Notwithstanding the great altitude of the 
bridge, the increase of the water is so enormous, 
during some of the floods, as to pass over the 
bulwarks; this occurred in 1762, after a continued 
rain, on the night of October the 8th ; when the rise 
of the river was so great that it covered the bridge, 
carried away the balustrades, and did other seri- 
ous damage to it. 

Among the animals, several are worthy of no- 
tice, either for their size or peculiar properties : 
such as the danta, the alligator, or cayman ; of 
birds, the guacamayo,the lory, and several others; 
full descriptions of which may be seen in Alcedo's 
Dictionary, at the end of the fifth volume. The 
warrior ants (hormigas guerreras), and the tepul- 
cuat, a species of snake, have been omitted by that 
author. The former are about double the size of 
the common ants, and always move by large bo- 
dies, in regular array, like an army. They di- 
rect their march towards the habitations, and 
wherever they enter a house they spread all over 
and clear it so effectually as not to leave a 
single worm^ reptile, or vermin of any sort, be- 
hind them when they depart. To the larger crea- 
tures, such as snakes, scorpions, toads, rats, &c. 
they are formidable from their numbers; in attack- 
ing these animals, they adhere so closely to their 
bodies, that they soon kill them, and devour them 
to the bones. When they have cleansed one house, 
they quit it and proceed to another. If any in- 
jury be done to them when in the house, they re- 
venge it by biting or stinging the assailant, and im- 
mediately retreat, leaving the vermin untouched. 

The snake called by the Indians tepulcuat, 
has 2 heads, 1 at each extremity: it can ad- 

R 



242 

vance with facility in either direction, without 
turning ; it is of a silvery colour, and varies in 
size according to age ; it voids the excrement, 
and engenders at the middle of the body : it is not 
known either to bite or sting, but its mode of an- 
noyance is extremely offensive; for on perceiving a 
person in the act of relieving nature, it will, with 
extraordinary quickness, introduce itself into the 
intestines; for this purpose it extends itself incre- 
dibly, and from about 4 inches in circumference it 
diminishes in volume to the size of a common quill. 
The remedy for expelling it, is for the patient to 
seat himself over a vessel containing warm milk, 
the smell of which attracts the animal, and it with- 
draws of its own accord. — (Fuentes, vol. 2, book 
% chap. 6.) 

A description of the vegetable productions of 
these provinces, that merit particular notice, ei- 
ther for medicinal virtues, or other benefits they 
offer to the human race, would extend this chap- 
ter beyond reasonable limits : the cocoa of Soco- 
nusco stands unrivalled ; after which, that of Su- 
chiltepeques and Escuintla, is the most esteemed ; 
this article is not only used for the manufacture of 
chocolate, the consumption of which is as gene- 
ral throughout this country, as it has become 
common all over Europe, but is also valuable for 
affording what is called the butter of cocoa, an 
excellent remedy for several complaints, whether 
taken internally, or externally applied. The wood 
called Palo de Maria, yields a sap that is a valu- 
able medicine for healing wounds, dissolving tu- 
mours, and curing many disorders. The cin- 
namon wood, so named from the strong resem- 
blance of its perfume to the cinnamon of Ceylon, 



243 

but differing from it much in taste, which is bitter; 
it is stomachic, and possesses many medicinal vir- 
tues ; among them may be mentioned its efficacy 
in quartan agues: it is also called Cascarilla de 
Loxa. The Ule tree, from the bark of which pa- 
per may be made : Fuentes relates that, in his 
time, there were preserved in the archives of the 
cabildo, several memorials written upon this ma- 
terial. If the trunk of the Ule be pierced, a liquor 
exudes copiously, which, being boiled, becomes 
an excellent preservative of leather from being 
penetrated by water: if boots, for example, be 
brushed over with it, a person may pass through 
a river, or marsh, without his feet being wetted. 
Tamarinds, cassia, long pepper, the root called 
suchilpactli, scorzonera, ginger, orejuela (a plant, 
the flowers of which are used to flavour and per- 
fume chocolate), and numerous other articles of 
great value and utility, might be enumerated. 

The species of fruits are numerous, delicate, 
and wholesome, among which the plantain de- 
serves particular notice, it is here called gordo, 
but in other places banana, to distinguish it from 
the other kinds of plantain; this fruit is preferred 
for its medicinal qualities by the natives to many 
others that are more known, and rank higher in ge- 
neral estimation, such as the anana or pine-apple; 
for delicacy of flavour it is superior to the pine, the 
guanabana, and the chicosapote or medlar; for 
beauty of colour to the scarlet sapote; being per- 
haps more extensively useful than any other fruit, 
it forms a principal article in the traffiic of the 
province. A description of it may be found in 
Alcedo's " Vocabulary of the Provincial Words 
of America;" but some of its various uses may 

r2 



244 

be mentioned here : in the first place it furnishes 
a~ substantial food, each fruit yielding a large 
quantity of nutritive matter, without skin, stone, 
or other inedible part; poor people eat it both in a 
ripe and an immature state ; but others only in a 
mature state, as it then has a most agreeable fla- 
vour; dried in the sun it has an exquisite taste, 
and is greatly superior to the dried figs brought 
from Europe ; it is also eaten boiled, roasted, and 
fried with sugar ; and it furnishes the chief mate- 
rials for several kinds of excellent and savoury 
stews ; finally it supplies the place of maize. 
Fuentes (vol. 2, book 1, chap. 11,) says, that the 
plantains dried in an oven, then peeled and 
pounded to a paste, pressed into a vessel and 
kept for about a fortnight, may afterward be dis- 
solved in water and strained ; this liquor will 
make a sort of wine, not to be distinguished from 
that which is called Ojo de Gallo. The facility 
of cultivating so valuable a fruit, and the great 
abundance of its produce, occasion the real worth 
of it to be but ill appreciated, and its extensive 
utility to be much neglected. 



CHAP. XVI. 

The Foundation of the City of St, Salvador. 

The city of St. Salvador is situated in the an- 
cient province of Cuscatlan, which there is rea- 
son to believe was conquered by Pedro de Alva- 
rado, about the end of the year 1524, or the be- 
ginning of 1525; in his expedition, during the 
first mentioned year, he traversed upwards of 400 
leagues of country; of the following year he spent 



245 

the greatest part in the city of Guatemala, as ap- 
pears from the books of the cabildo ; and in 
1526, when he set out for Truxillo, he passed 
through the province of Cuscatlan, which he pro- 
bably could not have done, had it not been pre- 
viously subjected to his authority; the date of 
its conquest may therefore be ascertained with 
tolerable precision. Alvarado, however, did not 
reach Truxillo, for on arriving at Choluteca, he 
received information, that Ferdinand Cortes, with 
whom he was desirous of having an interview, 
had embarked for Mexico ; he therefore left Cho- 
luteca on his return to Guatemala. In the short 
interval of his stay at this place, and his re- 
turn to Cuscatlan, he found that province on his 
arrival in it, in a state of insubordination. The 
troops which Alvarado had with him as an escort, 
reinforced by some that had joined him under 
the captain Luis Martin, who accompanied Cor- 
tes in his toilsome expedition to Higueras, were 
sufficient to restore tranquillity. On his arrival 
in Guatemala, Alvarado almost immediately em- 
barked for Spain, leaving Marcos de Aguilar 
the chief judge in New Spain, and his brother 
George de Alvarado, his lieutenant in this king- 
dom during his absence. The new governor, 
with a view of keeping in subjection the province 
of Cuscatlan, which was one of the richest in his 
government, determined to build a town, and 
to give it the name of St. Salvador, from the 
last battle, by which the district was brought 
under the power of the Spaniards, having been 
gained on the day that the church celebrates the 
festival of the transfiguration, or the 6th of August. 
The persons whom George de Alvarado sent 



246 

to establish his new town, were of the prin- 
cipal families of Guatemala; they arrived at 
Cuscatlan at the latter end of March, 1528, 
and having selected a convenient situation, 
founded St. Salvador on the 1st of April fol- 
lowing; when the officers, nominated by the go- 
vernor, entered upon their employments; viz. 
Diego de Alvarado, chief justice, and deputy of 
the captain-general throughout the province; An- 
tonio de Salazar, and Juan de Aguilar, ordinary 
alcaldes ; Pedro Gutierrez de Guinana, Santos 
Garcia, Christoval Saluago, Sancho de Figueroa, 
Gaspar de Cepeda, Francisco de Quiros, and 
Pedro Nunez de Guzman, regidors ; Gonzalo 
Ortiz, chief alguacil; Gaspar de Cepeda and Fran- 
cisco de Quiros, visitors of the province; Antonio 
Bermudez, treasurer of intestate property; and 
Luis Hurtado, procurator. The town increased 
so fast, that in 15 years after its foundation, the 
Emperor Charles the Fifth granted to it the title 
and honours of a city, bearing date September 
27, 1543. 

In the year 1549, by order of the royal au- 
diencia, Doctor Thomas Lopez visited the pro- 
vince of Cuscatlan, and the city of St. Salvador; 
in the following year, Thomas de la Torre made 
a similar inspection by commission from Fran- 
cisco Marroquin, bishop of Guatemala; these 
commissioners discovered many existing irregu- 
larities and malpractices, to which it was neces- 
sary to apply a speedy remedy ; and it appeared 
to them that such disorders would be most effec- 
tually checked, by founding a convent of the Do- 
minican order in the city of St. Salvador. In con- 
sequence of the report delivered by these visitors, 



247 

de la Torre, accompanied by Vincente de Ferrer, 
and Matias de Paz, was sent to carry that re- 
commendation into effect ; and in case of any re- 
sistance to the measure being attempted by the 
inhabitants, the oidor, Thomas Lopez, was added 
to the commission, in order that he might, by his 
prudence and mildness of disposition, be able to 
overcome the objections of such as were inimical 
to the new establishment. By the end of July, 
1551, all difficulties being removed, the commis- 
sioners took possession of a convenient spot of 
ground, when the building was commenced, and 
carried on with so much expedition, that in one 
year it was nearly completed, and provided with 
furniture, plate, and other ornaments for the 
church. This convent was declared to be the 
fourth in the province in point of rank ; in the 
acts of the first provincial chapter, held in the 
convent of Guatemala on the 27th of January, 
1553, and in another held at the same place 
on the 8th of May, 1536, it was made a priory ; 
at a subsequent chapter held in Guatemala on 
the 16th of January, 1790, this convent was ap- 
pointed to fulfil the precepts of the ordinance, 
which commands that in every province there 
shall be one religious house, wherein the consti- 
tutions of the order shall be observed with the ut- 
most rigour, without admitting of any dispensa- 
tion whatever. 

In the beginning of the year 1574, a royal order, 
dated the 11th of August, 1573, was received at 
Guatemala, in which the king recommended the 
building of convents in all places where they 
might be required. In obedience to this rescript, 
Pedro de Villalobos issued a royal permission, 



248 

dated 31st of May, 1574, by which the provin- 
cial of the Franciscans was authorized to erect 
convents of his order, in the provinces of Izalco, 
Cuscatlan, and Honduras. Armed with this 
power, Bernardino Perez, and some others of 
the order, left Guatemala, and after having esta- 
blished a convent in the town of Zonzonate, they 
proceeded to St. Salvador, where they were very 
kindly received by the inhabitants, and patronised 
by the licentiate, Jofre de Loaysa, who was at 
that time making a tour of inspection through the 
province. A spot of ground was assigned to them 
for a church and convent, which were began on 
the 20th of September, 1574, with the name 
of St. Bernardino de Sena ; this was afterward 
changed to that of St. Antonio ; and in a chapter 
held on the 1st of October, 1575, the latter appel- 
lation was again changed for La Guardiana : on 
the 15th of October, 1577, Gomez Fernandez de 
Cordova, bishop of Guatemala, placed the mis- 
sions of St. Thomas, St. Jago, and St. Mark 
Texaquangos, under the superintendence of this 
convent. 

In the year 1593, the order of La Merced at- 
tempted to establish a convent in St. Salvador, 
but they could not accomplish their desire until 
1623. 

The whole province has frequently been visited 
by violent earthquakes, those from which it has 
suffered the greatest injury, took place in the 
years 1575, 1593, 1625, 1656, and 1798. 



249 



CHAP. XVII. 

Of the Invasion of the Province of St. Salvador by 
Martiii Estete, 

For many years after the conquest of the king- 
dom, the boundaries of its several provinces were 
but ill defined ; and as the ambition and avarice 
of men are not easily kept in restraint, each go- 
vernor endeavoured to extend the limits of his 
jurisdiction, as far as he could discover any 
thing to invite his rapacity ; particularly when 
the countries bordering on his own district tempt- 
ed his covetousness by rich mines, or other valu- 
able productions. The attempts of the governors 
of Honduras and Nicaragua to incorporate the 
valley of Olanche with their respective govern- 
ments, are in this country well known ; the rich 
veins of gold in the valley were the allurement 
which made each of them aspire to its posses- 
sion. Pedrarias Davila, insatiable in his avarice, 
endeavoured, about the latter end of the year 
1529, to obtain possession of the province of St. 
Salvador, under the pretext of its being within 
the limits of his government of Nicaragua. To 
accomplish this object, he sent Estete with a 
force of 90 cavalry and 110 infantry : the latter 
advanced by the province of Chaparrastique, 
or St. Miguel, just at the time Diego de 
Roxas was occupied in quelling the revolt of 
some Indians on the opposite side of the River 
Lempa. On Roxas being informed that there 
were other Spanish troops in the district, besides 
those under his own command, and the circum- 
stance appearing to him extraordinary, he took 



250 

an escort of 4 horsemen and 4 infantry, and de- 
termined to reconnoitre them. Estete's soldiers, 
however, contrived to surprise him and his com- 
panions, and made them prisoners. Some of the 
Indians who attended Roxas fled as soon as 
they saw him captured, and gave information of 
it to his troops : these being but few in number, 
and not daring to attack those of Estete, retired 
to the town of St. Salvador, and sent advice of the 
seizure of their commander to Guatemala. Fran- 
cisco de Ordufia, who was governor ad interim 
at that time, immediately on receipt of the intelli- 
gence sent a dispatch to Estete, in which he com- 
manded him, if he possessed any authority from 
the king for entering the province, to produce it; 
but, if he had none, to retire from it. Having ex- 
pedited this order, Orduiia imagined he had done 
all that was required of him to do; the people of 
the capital were of a contrary opinion, and could 
not view with indifference the indolence of the 
governor, in suffering that territory, which they 
had gained with so much fatigue, to be tamely 
lost ; they loudly expressed their dissatisfaction, 
and openly taxed him with want of courage. 
Roused by these clamours, Orduiia assembled a 
council on the 24th of February, at which, be- 
sides the regular members, the ecclesiastic, Juan 
Godinez, and several other principal persons, 
were present. To this meeting he detailed the 
ravages that Estete had committed in the pro- 
vince of Cuscatlan, and represented that he had re- 
plied in a very improper manner to the requisition 
which had been sent to him. The members of the 
council, and others present, said they were well 
aware that the soldiers of Davila had entered the 



251 

province in a hostile manner, and without any 
warrant from the king', had attempted to unite 
the province of St. Salvador to the government 
of Terra Firma ; therefore, they required the go- 
vernor personally to visit the boundaries of the 
jurisdiction ; declaring, at the same time, that 
they were willing to attend him on the expe- 
dition. To this Orduna replied, he was ready 
to proceed with them ; but, as a force both of 
horse and foot was necessary, it would be re- 
quisite to issue a proclamation, to ascertain who 
would offer their assistance. 

On the 2d of March, another open council was 
held, at which Orduiia represented that no more 
than 60 men had tendered their services ; but, if 
they could increase this force to 100, he would 
undertake the expedition. The council perceiv- 
ing the business would not admit of the governor's 
dilatory proceedings, determined to nominate 
Francisco Lopez to the chief command of the de- 
tachment, and he readily accepted the commission. 
The governor, however, so far from promoting 
the enterprise, proposed to the council, on the 
following day, to wait for a reply from the royal 
audience of Mexico. While the matter was in 
debate at Guatemala, Estete continued his march 
to St. Salvador; and, as the population of the 
place was small, he entered it without resistance. 
He desired the inhabitants to receive him as their 
captain and governor, promising, by way of in- 
ducing their compliance, that he would not de- 
prive them of their Indians. This proposal being 
rejected, he retired to the village of Perulapan, 
where he established what he called the city de 
los Caballeros, appointing alcaldes, regidors, and 



252 

other public officers. From this place he made 
frequent excursions into the country, for the pur- 
pose of pillaging and committing all kinds of 
depredations. As soon as he obtained information 
that the people of Guatemala were coming to op- 
pose him, he abandoned his newly formed city; 
and having plundered the country of every thing 
portable, he retired, taking away with him up- 
wards of 2000 Indians. The Guatemalans fol- 
lowed the invader beyond the River Lempa, when 
finding his pursuers gaining upon him, he drew 
up his troops in order of battle ; but not having 
sufficient confidence in his soldiers to abide the 
issue of an action, both he and his second in 
command, Salcedo, sought their personal safety 
in a hasty flight. The men seeing^tbemselves 
abandoned by their commanders, offered terms 
of capitulation to the Guatemalans, which were 
accepted, on condition that all the Indians, and 
other persons who had been captured, should be 
liberated : this being immediately done, such of 
the invaders as wished to return to Nicaragua 
were permitted to depart, and those who chose 
to remain were allowed to go to Guatemala; 90 
of Davila's soldiers embraced ^the^ offer, and 
joined those of Guatemala. 

The prompt assistance afforded by the Spa- 
niards of the capital to the Indians of Cuscatlan, 
had a powerful effect on their minds ; and from 
seeing themselves so readily and effectually pro- 
tected against the tyranny of Estete, who was 
driving them from their homes into the govern- 
ment of Terra Firma, many of them became con- 
verts to Christianity. The ill effects of this in- 
vasion were felt for some time, as great numbers 



253 

of the Indians fled to the mountains, to escape the 
severities of Estete ; and several villages in the pro- 
vince of St. Salvador, and of the Balsam coast, re- 
mained in a state of insubordination, the inhabitants 
conmiitting frequent acts of hostility upon, and 
severely harrassing those who remained quiet and 
friendly to the Spaniards. This species of warfare 
continued so long, that Pedro de Alvarado found 
it necessary to reduce the aggressors to his autho- 
rity by force; he^ therefore, prepared an expedi- 
tion against them, under the command of Pedro 
Portocarrero and Diego de Roxas. These of- 
ficers exceeding the powers with which they had 
been invested, wished to place under their com- 
mand the regidors of the city of Guatemala; this 
induced the procurator syndic to represent to the 
captain-general in council, on the 25th of April, 
1533, that the regidors did not conceive them- 
selves to be subject to the orders of Portocarrero 
and Roxas, the officers appointed by him to con- 
duct the war on the Balsam coast. On the repre- 
sentation of the syndic, they were declared by the 
governor exempt from the said authority ; and, 
by this decision, all dispute was terminated. In 
the records of the cabildo, of the 8th of January, 
1535, it appears that another revolt took place in 
Cuscatlan about that time ; and that the ayunta- 
miento, in the absence of the governor's lieu- 
tenant^ appointed Gonzalo Ronquillo to the com- 
mand of a force that was sent to quell it ; but 
neither in the books of the cabildo, nor in any of 
the native authors, is there to be met with any ac- 
count of the issue of these two expeditions. 



254 

CHAP. XVIII. 

Of the Cities of St. Migv£l de la Frontera^ St. 
Vincente de Austria^ and the Town of Trinidad 
de Zonzonate. 

Many researches have been made to obtain in- 
formation of the particular circumstances that led 
to the foundation of the city of St. Miguel de la 
Frontera, in order to give a concise history of so 
wealthy a place; but from the deficiency of au- 
thentic records, reliance must be placed upon de- 
tails procured from the most respectable authority 
by diligent and cautious inquiry. 

The historian, Antonio de Herrera (dec. 4, lib. 
7, cap. 5), informs us, that Pedro de Alvarado, 
being in the city of Mexico, on his return from 
Spain to Guatemala, set out with all speed for the 
capital of his government, as soon as he received 
advice that Martin Estete had invaded the pro- 
vinces of Chaparrastique and Cuscatlan. He ar- 
rived there in April, 1530, about the time that the 
troops from Guatemala had forced Estete to aban- 
don the invaded provinces ; and either to keep 
them in subjection, or to prevent the repetition of 
similar incursions, he sent Luis Moscoso, an oflS- 
cer of experience, with 120 soldiers, to re-establish 
peace in a certain province lying beyond the River 
Lempa, by which it is supposed the province of 
Chaparrastique was meant, and he was also or- 
dered to lay the foundation of a town, whither 
Alvarado sent persons whom he had appointed 
alcaldes and regidors. It is beyond doubt, that 
this was the town of St. Miguel ; in the first 
place from its corresponding in situation precisely 
with that built by Moscoso, and secondly, from 



255 

the period of its establishment ; for previous to 
the year 1530, there is no record or mention of 
any town beyond the River Lempa; whereas, there 
is unequivocal proof that in 1531, the town of St. 
Miguel was in existence; for in the second book 
of the records of Guatemala, a minute is inserted, 
which says, that at a council held on the 26th of 
June, the procurator of the town of St. Miguel, 
and those of the town of St. Salvador, presented 
themselves, and delivered their powers to Gabriel 
de Cabrera, the ordinary alcalde, who was going 
in the capacity of agent from the city of Guate- 
mala to the court of Spain to act for them also. 
The town of St. Miguel was raised to the rank of 
a city, but at what period this honour was con- 
ferred upon it, is uncertain. There is an entry in 
the records beforementioned, under date of Au- 
gust 22, 1583, book 7th, fol. 190, by which it ap- 
pears that it then had this title ; for mention is 
there made of the '* monastery of the city of St. 
Jago, and those of the cities of St. Salvador, and 
St. Miguel." The general and extraordinary 
cortes by a decree of July 15, 1812, granted to 
it the additional designation of Muy noble y muy 
leal (most noble and most loyal). The ayunta- 
miento, and the amount of population of this city, 
have been already mentioned in a former part ; it 
was formerly much more populous than it now 
is — indeed the commercial advantages it enjoys 
would render it one of the most numerously peo- 
pled places in the kingdom ; but the insalubrity 
of the climate keeps down the number of the na- 
tive residents, and deters others from taking up 
their abode in it. 

The town of Trinidad de Zonzonate. The precise 



^56 

year when the foundation of this town was laid, 
cannot be ascertained ; as the original protocols 
and registers were destroyed in a conflagration, 
almost general, that took place in January, 1564. 
In 1572, however, it had become a place of conse- 
quence, and the ayuntamiento, a body of some 
importance ; as it then applied to the supreme 
government of the kingdom, by a petition, praying 
that the ordinary alcaldes might be invested with 
the privilege of exercising their authority through- 
out the jurisdiction of the alcalde mayor of Zonzo- 
nate. The president, Antonio Gonzalez, remitted 
this petition to the council of Guatemala, but it was 
rejected by that body on the 6th February, 1572. 
—(Lib. 5, de Cab. fol. 27.) Notwithstanding the 
refusal of the ayuntamiento, the governor thought 
proper, by his sole authority, to concede this ex- 
traordinary prerogative to the petitioners. The 
town continued to increase, and its commercial 
prosperity advanced rapidly, favoured as it was 
by an advantageous position near the port of Aca- 
jutla, the rendezvous of the ships coming from 
Peru. Here there is a royal treasury, and the 
officer presiding over it enjoys the same privileges 
as those peculiar to the same rank in Guatemala. 
The city of St. Yincente de Austria, or Loren- 
zana, was begun in the year 1635, when 50 Spa- 
nish families, whose estates lay in the district, 
agreed to unite and form a village, to which they 
gave the appellation of St. Vincente de Lorenza- 
na. About the year 1658, the inhabitants solicit- 
ed the privileges of a town ; and in return for it 
offered a donative of 1600 dollars to the king, 
with a farther contribution of 3600 dollars towards 
the appointments of the standard-bearer, alguacil 



257 

mayor, provincial alcalde^ receiver-general, 2 
regidors, and a secretary. The royal audiencia, 
which governed the kingdom at this period, ac- 
cepted the gift in the king's name, assented to the 
request, and granted the title of Villa de St. Viu- 
cente de Austria to the village of St. Vincente de 
Lorenzana; which distinction was first publicly 
applied to it on the 20th of March in the same 
year: the official appointments were confirmed by 
Philip the Fourth, with a proviso that the secretary 
was not to have a seat in the council. The ayun- 
tamiento is composed of 9 individuals, viz, 2 al- 
caldes and a procurator syndic, elected annually, 
and 6 regidors. The office of receiver-general 
having been latterly abolished in all cabildos, by 
a royal order, a regidor has been added in his 
stead. The general and extraordinary cortes, by 
a decree of the 15th July, 1812, confirnied the 
titleof city, which the regency of the kingdom had 
granted to this town on the 18th of June of the 
same year. In this city there are several distin- 
guished families of nobility; among the founders 
were those of Don Alonzo Vides de Alvarado, a 
descendant of Gonzalo, and George, brothers of 
Pedro de Alvarado. It is the custom of this 
place for all who possess houses in it to pay 4 
reals a year towards the funds of the cabildo ; but 
Spaniards are exempt from the contribution, in 
consideration of their ancestors having bought the 
ground on which it is built. 

The ayuntamiento of the city has a jurisdiction 
extending westward to the River Giboa, on the 
north and east to the River Lempa, and to the 
shores of the Pacific on the south. Within this 
district is the village of Sacatecoluca, which has 



258 

never been within the jurisdiction of St. Vin- 
cente ; but those of Hilovasco, New St. Domingo, 
Titiguapa, Senzuntepeque, andGuacotecte, were : 
when the intendancia of St. Salvador was esta- 
blished in 1785, or soon after, the two first were 
added to the subdelegation of Cojutepeque, 
and the three others formed into a separate sub- 
delegation. The villages of Apastepeque, Sa- 
guayapa, St. Sebastian, Tecoluca, Istepeque, and 
Tepetitan, built in 1792^ are under the ayunta- 
miento of the city. 

There is a factory of tobacco in St. Vincente, 
composed of a factor, an interventor, a store- 
keeper, secretary, and guards : the treasury chest 
of this establishment was formerly kept at St. 
Salvador, but transferred, in the year 1792, to the 
village of Tepetitan, where a house was erected 
for those who had charge of it ; as, however, the 
tobacco plantations are only a short distance from 
the city, which appeared to offer greater security 
for the king's property than the village, as well as 
a more convenient and agreeable residence for the 
officers of the factory, the treasury was removed 
thither in 1811, 

St. Vincente is 12 leagues from the Pacific 
Ocean, in a beautiful valley sheltered by 2 high 
ridges of mountains, and well supplied with ex- 
cellent water ; the River Acaguapa, the stream of 
which is particularly cold, flows through it on the 
northern side, skirting the city in its course ; on 
the opposite side runs the River Amapupulta, 
the waters of which are warm : a little far- 
ther on is the river of St. Christopher, and this 
stream is always of the temperature of the human 
body. Indiftereat parts of the valley there are mi- 



259 

neral springs, one called the Dead Spring, Los 
Muertos; another the Warm Water Spring ; a 
third, the Silver Water Spring, &c. Surrounding 
the city are excellent cultivations of maize, rice, 
pulse, and other articles of provisions ; but the 
most valuable productions of the district are 
indigo and tobacco, both of a quality superior 
to any other in the kingdom. 



CHAP. XIX 



Of various Objects worthy ofAtte^ition in the 
Province of St. Salvador, 

On entering the intendancy of St. Salvador, the 
first object of attention is the lake of Guixar, 
situated on the boundaries of Metapa and Ostua, 
villages in the jurisdiction of Cuscatlan. This 
lake is remarkable for its extent of 20 leagues, 
and for the great body of water flowing into it ; 
the large River Mitlan, augmented in its long 
course by many tributary streams, takes the name 
of Ostua, and discharges itself into the lake; the 
lake of Metapa receives the Rivers Langue and 
Languetuyo, and by a subterranean channel com- 
municates with Lake Guixar; the River Guixar, a 
large and powerful stream, in no part fordable, 
flows out of the lake, and, after a winding course, 
faHs into the River Lempa. These two lakes 
furnish to the whole district an inexhaustible sup- 
ply of delicate fish. In the middle of Guixar, 
a Jarge island most picturesquely covered with 
wood, gives shelter to immense quantities of game, 
from which a plentiful provision is obtained for 
all the surrounding towns and villages ; it serves 

s 2 



260 

also as an intermediate stopping place, for the 
Indian canoes in their passage from one side of 
the lake to the other. On this island there are the 
ruins of some ancient buildings, called by the na- 
tives Zacualpa, which in their language means 
the Old Village, of sufficient extent to convey the 
idea of its once having been a place of importance. 
Fuentes (in torn. 2, lib. 4, cap. 5,) says, It had 
been affirmed, on very respectable authority^ that 
in the interior of the v^oods on this island, satyrs 
had been frequently seen : this assertion may be 
suffered to pass, in the present day, without the 
trouble of inquiring into the respectability of the 
said authority. The lakes of Texacuangos and 
Gilopango afford various kinds of tine fish, more 
than enough for the markets of St. Salvador, and 
a great portion of the intendancia. The volcanoes 
of St. Salvador, St. Miguel, and St. Vincente, are 
entitled to notice; eruptions from the two former 
are known to have happened, frequently attended 
with copious discharges of calcined substances, 
although no minute relations of these events are 
now extant. The volcano of St. Vincente is better 
known, and a more exact description of it can be 
given. Among the mountains that enclose the 
town of St. Vincente, one situated in the south- 
west lifts its towering summit far above the 
others : this certainly contains in its interior im- 
mense quantities of sulphur, and other inflam- 
mable substances, which is manifested by nume- 
rous springs of warm water that descend from its 
sides, and more particularly by an aperture on its 
northern flank, called the Infernillo, which emits 
smoke; in this direction also there are many other 
openings filled with very hot water : from these 



261 

may be heard a noise resembling that of boiling 
water, which is increased by the slightest agita- 
tion of the air, even by so trifling a one as that 
of the human voice. There are many streams 
of different kinds of water, which unite and form 
some of the rivers that irrigate the valley. On 
some parts of the mountain is found a very white 
earth, commonly used for painting in distemper; 
in others, yellow, rose colour, purple, and blue ; 
vitriol or green copperas is also met with. Among 
the animals that inhabit it, there are many wild 
boars ; and the danta has been frequently found 
there. The vegetable productions consist of such 
trees and fruits as are peculiar to the colder cli- 
mates of the kingdom : in fact, so great is its alti- 
tude, that in the upper regions the cold is ex- 
cessive. 

Another prominent object of attention is the 
River Lempa, which separates the districts of St. 
Vincente and St. Miguel. This stream when at 
the lovi^est is 70 toises broad ; at its highest 
mark it is more than double that distance: and 
the current is then so rapid as to make it impass- 
able in canoes. This river rises among the moun- 
tains of Esquipulas, in the province ofChiqui- 
mula ; at first it is only an inconsiderable rivulet 
called Sesecapa ; which in a course of more than 
40 leagues, receives the tribute of almost innumer- 
able small streams, and finally discharges an im- 
mense volume of water into the Pacific, a little to 
the westward of the bay of Jiquilisco. 

The natural productions, both animal and ve- 
getable, are in general similar to those of the other 
provinces on the southern coast; but the balsam 
tree is the exclusive growth of this ; in what is 
called the balsam coast, which extends from the 



262 

port of Acajutla to the bay of Jiquilisco. Alcedo, 
in his Dictionary, under the word Sonsonate, 
says; *' This balsam is the most precious of any 
known, and highly valued in every part of the 
world." The tree that produces this inestimable 
medicine presents to the Pharmacopeia many 
other valuable drugs : by making an incision in 
the trunk of it, a liquor exudes, called the black 
balsam, an admirable remedy for effecting a 
speedy cure of wounds of every description : from 
the flowers the spirit of balsam is made ; the 
seeds, or nut, produce the oil of balsam, an ex- 
cellent anodyne ; and the capsules yield the 
white balsam. From these simple kinds the tinc- 
ture, or essence of balsam, is extracted : it is ge- 
nerally termed balsamito, and was a discovery 
of Don Jose Eustaquio de Leon, director of the 
mint in Guatemala, who published a description 
of the many virtues of this peculiar medicine. It 
is cordial, corroborant, and diuretic; dissolves 
viscous humours, facilitates the circulation, and 
aids digestion : taken in the quantity of half a 
spoonful, it soon produces recovery from f^^inting 
fits ; a few drops in aniseed, or quince water, is 
an excellent remedy for bilious or windy cholic; 
in aniseed it relieves hysterical affections; in 
mint water it expels worms ; in wormwood water 
it is excellent in child-birth; in water of onion seed 
it relieves the stone ; to strengthen the stomach, ex- 
hilirate the spirits, for colds, or in fevers, it may be 
taken in wine; and for many other complaints, 
by adapting the vehicle in which it is taken to the 
particular infirmity, it is a sovereign medicine. 
A small quantity infused in common water gives 
it the appearance of milk, and a pledget dipped 
therein is a good remedy in most accidents ; placed 



263 

upon the abdomen it alleviates heats and diffi- 
culties of passing the urine; applied to recent 
wounds it is a good styptic, and will effect a cure : 
it removes the itching and pain that remain after 
extracting the nigua,^ and prevents inflammation : 
a cloth dipped in it, and laid upon the face, will 
prevent wrinkles and remove freckles. 

Another most valuable production of this pro- 
vince, is the anil, or, as foreigners call it, indigo. 
]t is true, the plant called Giquilite, from which 
it is prepared, grows in most parts of the king- 
dom ; and there are many manufactories of the 
article in several estates on the southern coast ; 
but the quantity of indigo made in them, is tri- 
fling compared with what is produced in the pro- 
vince of St. Salvador. This indeed is the best 
and most esteemed ; and generally preferred to 
that made in the Antilles islands. In the year 
1782, a Mont de Piet6, and a society of the 
growers of indigo were established in St. Vin- 
cente; and the fair held on the 1st of November, 
in the village of Apastepeque, was transferred to 
the city, where, on the 1st of December, it was 
kept: an immense quantity of dying materials 
was produced ; an extraordinary number of mer- 
chants attended, and very large purchases were 
made. In 1784, this establishment was removed 
to the city of St. Salvador, where the fair dimi- 
nished almost to nothing: for the purchasers re- 
sorted, according to ancient custom, to Apastepe- 
que, as much more convenient, from being nearly 
in the centre of the province. 

* The nigua is a very troublesome insect, something like a 
flea, which forms a nidus belvveen the skin and the flesh, parti- 
cularly about the feet and legs, producing the most disagreeable 
sensations ; unless carefully removed, it multiplies incredibly, 
and renders a cure extremelv difficult. 



264 



CHAP. XX. 

The Provinces situated on the Atlantic.— Of the 
Conquest of VerapaZy Alcala, and La ManchL 

In the year 1536, BartholoQiew Las Casas, Pedro 
de Angiilo, Luis de Cancer, and Rodrigo de La- 
drada, of the Dominican order, settled in the city 
of Guatemala. (Remesal, lib. 3, cap. 7. 9, 10, 
and 11.) Las Casas, who was vicar of the con- 
vent, had, some years before, written a treatise, 
which he called " De unico vocationis modo ;" 
in which he attempted to prove, and with great 
erudition, that Divine Providence had instituted 
the preaching of the gospel as the only means of 
conversion to the Christian faith ; for by those 
means alone can the understanding be persuaded, 
and the inclination be led, to embrace its tenets ; 
consequently, harassing by wars those whose 
conversion is sought for, is the means of prevent- 
ing, rather than accomplishing, the desired ob- 
ject. Hence it results, that, to obtain this end, 
war cannot, injustice, be made upon those who 
have never been subject to a Christian authority, 
or have never committed any act of aggression 
against Christians. This reasoning was generally 
believed fallacious ; and when the author pro- 
mulgated, and endeavoured to prove it from the 
pulpit, as well as in private assemblies, instead of 
producing conviction among his auditors, he was 
laughed at, treated with ridicule, and advised to 
put in practice what he had preached in theory; 
as he would then be with certainty undeceived by 
the bad success of his rash enterprise. 

Firm in his opinion, and possessing too much 



265 

courage to be intimidated by taunts, Las Casas 
unhesitatingly accepted the proposal. The pro- 
vince of Tuzulutlan, which the Spaniards called 
Tierra de guerra (the land of war), as they had 
been three several times driven back in their at- 
tempts to conquer it, but .which the Emperor 
Charles the Fifth afterward called Verapaz, be- 
cause the natives were brought within the pale 
of Christianity by the exertion of the missionaries 
only, was pitched upon by him as the scene of 
his first endeavours; and this region, that the 
Spaniards were unable to subdue by their arms, 
yielded to the mild persuasion of a few zealous 
ecclesiastics. The Dominicans, previous to com- 
mencing their undertaking, entered into an agree- 
ment with^ the governor, Alonzo de Maldonado, 
that such provinces as might be reduced to the 
obedience of the crown of Spain by their efforts, 
were not to be put under the charge of any indi- 
vidual ; and that no Spaniards should be per- 
mitted to reside in them during a period of dve 
years. The governor assented to these terms, 
and signed an agreement of that purport on the 
2d of May, 1537 ; which was confirmed by the 
king on the 17th of October, 1540, and again on 
the 1st of May, 1543. 

This arrangement being concluded, the Domi- 
nicans composed some hymns in the Quiche lan- 
guage ; in w^hich they described the creation of 
the world, the fall of Adam, the redemption of 
mankind, and the principal mysteries of the life, 
passion, and death of the Saviour, (Remesal, 
lib. 3, cap. 15 — 18.) These were learned by 
some of the converted Indians, who traded with 
those of Sacapulas and Quiche, where the chief 



266 

cacique of that country, who was afterward 
called Don Juan, having heard them sung, asked 
those who had repeated them to explain more in 
detail the meaning of things so new to him. Tiie 
Indians excused themselves from so doing, on ac- 
count of their inability to perform it correctly, 
saying they could he explained only by the fa- 
thers who had taught them ; and these were so 
kind that, if he would send for them, they would 
gladly come and instruct him in every thing. The 
cacique was pleased with the information, and 
sent one of his brothers, with many presents, to 
entreat that they would come to make him ac- 
quainted with every thing contained in the songs 
of the Indian merchants. The fathers received 
this ambassador with great kindness, and much 
satisfiiction totheniselves; and determined that one 
of their number, Luis Cancer, should return with 
him to ti)e cacique. The chief went to the en- 
trance of the village to meet the missionary, treat- 
ed him with great veneration, and after having been 
made to comprehend the mysteries of the new 
faith, he fervently adopted it, burnt his idols, and 
became a preacher of the gospel to his own sub- 
jects. 

Cancer returned to Guatemala, and the fa- 
vourable reports he made so much rejoiced Las 
Casas and Angulo, that, in December, 1537, they 
set out for the residence of the cacique Don 
Juan. They visited the whole district, and went 
into the province of Tuzulutlan, where they were 
well received ; and having reconnoitred a part of 
it, they returned to the cacique Juan. At this 
time the fathers endeavoured to assemble the In- 
dians in villages ; for as they were then living 



267 

dispersed, there was greater labour in civilizing 
and instructing them. With this object in view, 
they undertook to form villages; and, by the as- 
sistance of the chief, they soon succeeded, but 
not without much labour, and some opposition, 
in establishing the village of Rabinal. This ob- 
ject having been satisfactorily accomplished, they 
penetrated farther into the province, and reached 
Coban, being every where well received by the na- 
tives.* Las Casas affirms, in his " Apologetical 
History," that in no part of the Indies did he find 
governments better ordered, or ruled by better 
laws, than those he met with in this district. 
Thus the Indians of Verapaz, brought to live 
in societies under a rational legislation, and in- 
structed in the dogmas of true religion, embraced 
Christianity with ardour, and cheerfully submitted 
to the empire of the Spanish monarch. Such was 
the case, uot only in Rabinal and Coban, but in 
places more remote; as Cahabon, and others. 

After the conquest of Yerapaz, thus fortunate- 
ly and mildly achieved, the Dominicans next un- 
dertook that of Alcala. In the year 1552, Thomas 
de la Torre, vicar-general of the order, arrived at 
Coban, in his visit to the diflferent convents. At 

* It may at first sight appear inconsistent and contradictory 
to say that the missionaries arrived at Coban, and other places ; 
and afterward, that they persuaded the natives to hve in vil- 
lages ; but it must be observed, that in the time of their pa- 
ganism, these Indians had villages similar to some still existing, 
that are called Pajuyues, in which the houses are so far dis- 
tant from each other, that a place, containing 500 inhabit- 
ants, will extend a league or more. These fathers, and some of 
the first conquerors, placed them in villages formed after the 
Spanish manner, with the church in the centre, before it the 
square, with the cabildo or town-house, prison, and othtr 
offices, the houses connected in squares, the streets straight and 
crossing each other at right angles. 



^68 

this period, Domingo Vico had made himself mas- 
ter of the language of Alcala, and accompanying 
the vicar-general, they n.ade their first entree in- 
to that province ; where they preached with so 
much zeal and fervour, that they induced many 
natives to embrace Christianity, and give up a 
great number of their idols, which were publicly 
burned. They pursued their apostolical labours 
with diligence, converting and baptizing many ; 
but being repeatedly warned that some of the in- 
fidels meditated tlieir destruction, they withdrew 
privately. Some time after this, Vico renewed his 
visit to Alcala, and succeeded in making many 
proselytes. Being appointed prior of Coban, he 
sent Alonzo Yayllo, and some others, into Al- 
cala; and not long after, the conventuals of Co- 
ban went thither on a similar mission. The three 
years of Vico's priorate having expired, he made 
another excursion into that province, and exerted 
himself with unwearied zeal to persuade the inha- 
bitants to form societies, and build villages ; la- 
bouring incessantly to promote their welfare, 
until he fell a martyr to his kindness. He was 
killed by them on the 29th of November, 1555. 
Remesal makes no mention of Alcala after Vico's 
death ; and it is supposed farther attempts to re- 
claim them were abandoned. 

Immediate to the province of Verapaz is that of 
Manche, tlie reduction of which was occasioned 
by the following circumstances. (Remesal, lib. 
2, cap. 18—20.) About the year 1570, some 
of the principal Tudians came to Coban, where 
they were well received, and much caressed, by 
Thomas de Cardenas, bishop of Yerapaz, and 
other residents in the convent. This pleased 



269 

them so highly, that afterward they frequently 
came to Cahabon, the nearest village to their own 
territories : on these visits, the fathers always in- 
structed them on seligioos subjects, and exhorted 
them to einbrace Christianity; but the answer 
always given was, that they would consider about 
it, but they remained undecided with respect to 
giving up their native mode of worship until 1603. 
In this year, a chapter of the Dominican order was 
held in the convent at Sacapulas : and Alonzo 
Criado de Castilla wrote to the members, recom- 
mending them most earnestly to undertake the 
conversion of Manche. The means by which 
this service was to be effected, were discussed in 
the assembly, with great attention, several times ; 
and the result of these conferences was, to order 
Juan de Esguerra to prepare for undertaking the 
mission as speedily and effectually as possible. 
On the 25th of April, Esguerra, accompanied by 
Salvador Cipriano, left Cahabon for Manche, and 
reached the first village of that province on the 
1st of May, which, being St. Philip's day, they 
called after the saint: the cacique advanced to 
meet them, and regaled them according to the 
manner of his country, with all the distinction he 
could shew ; the principal chiefs of the other vil- 
lages that they visited followed the cacique's ex- 
ample. The fathers preached to the Indians in 
all the places they visited; and having explored 
as much of the territory as they then could, re- 
turned to Cahabon. At the desire of the pre- 
sident, Esguerra persuaded some of the caciques 
to accompany him to Guatemala, where they 
were received by the governor, and treated with 
every mark of attention and kindness; he pre- 



270 

sented them with dresses of silk, and gave them 
others for their wives. This good treatment ope- 
rated strongly in making the Indians depose the 
fear they entertained of the Spaniards, and led 
them to consider the offer of Christianity as liable 
to fewer objections than they had entertained 
against it. In February the following year, 1604, 
the same missionaries undertook another journey 
into Manche; in May they were followed by some 
more, and, in addition to these, care was taken to 
send some of the baptized Indians from Cahabon 
into the villages of Manche, that they might use 
their influence in exhorting the inhabitants to 
attend to the instructions of the fathers : these 
means were so successfully plied, that in 1606, 
8 villages had entirely abandoned the Pagan rites, 
to kneel before the altars of Christianity, and sub- 
mit to the government of Spain : the population 
of these villages was not inconsiderable, one called 
St. Miguel Manche, contained about 100 houses; 
that of Assumption Chocahaoc, as many; Hixil, 
12 ; Matzin, 30, and Yxuox, 25. 



CBAP. XXI. 

Of remarkable Objects in the Province of Verapaz, 

In the village of St. Augustin Lanquin, there is 
a cavern wherein very beautiful stalactites are 
formed by water that exudes from the roof. 

Another remarkable object is the Rio de la 
Passion, that rises in the mountains of Chama; 
where it passes to the north of Coban, in front of 
the mountains of Chicec, it is 25 toises broad, and 
not less than 10 deep: in the rainy season the 



271 

breadth increases to half a league, and the depth 
is proportionably angtnented ; in a long course, 
the stream is vsvvelled by the aggregation of many 
other rivers ; from Verapaz it flows to the north- 
west, passes through Peten, enters the province 
of Tabasco, and uniting with the large river Ut- 
samazinta, discharges itself into the bay of Cam- 
peachey, where it forms the bar of St. Peter and St. 
Paul. By this river a considerable traffic might 
be carried on with the city of Guatemala; this, in 
fact, was formerly done by the Lacandon Indians, 
who dwell upon its margin, in which they are said 
to have employed not less than 424 canoes. Were 
the navigation of the river to be prosecuted, the 
conversion of the Lacandon Indians might, in the 
first place, be accomplished ; for by intercourse 
with the Christians, they would become domesti- 
cated, and inclined to adopt their religion ; with- 
out this preparation, their reduction will be a 
matter of difficulty : for as soon as they are visited 
in one place, to avoid farther importunity, they 
remove their wives, children, canoes, and pro- 
perty, to another, where they remain until they 
are again assailed with solicitations. A very pro- 
fitable commerce might also be opened with the 
provinces of Peten, Tabasco, Campeachey, and 
even with Vera Cruz. Another great advantage 
would be obtained, for the lands on the banks of 
the river could soon be brought under cultiva- 
tion, as tliey are extremely fertile, and peculiarly 
well adapted to the growth of coffee, cocoa, and 
sugar. 

Were the navigation of the River Polochic to 
be encouraged, great benefits would be the result; 
for by it the produce imported from Europe to 



272 

the gulf of Dnlce, might be transported to tlie 
capital. This river rises in the mountain of Xu- 
caneb, descending from which, it passes by the 
village of St. Paul Tamajun, and then takes a 
north-easterly direction ; about four leagues from 
St. Paul, it flows by another village, St. Miguel 
Tucuru, and continues its course into the gulf; 
in this space it unites with the Cahabon river. 
About 8 leagues from Tucuru, there was formerly 
a village called St. Catharine, and farther down, 
another named St. Andrew's, both of which were 
burned, and the settlements destroyed by the Eng- 
lish. In former times, the merchandise imported 
from Spain to Guatemala, and that exported 
thence to Europe, were conveyed by this river; 
and even so lately as 1793, the organ imported 
from Europe for the church of St. Domingo, was 
transported to the capital by this route. The ad- 
vantages that would flow fron) this navigation 
are obvious; in the tirst place, the Polochic has 
always sufficient water, not only for canoes, but 
even for vessels, although the latter cannot enter 
it from the gulf, on account of the bar at the 
mouth of the Lagoon, which is therefore navigated 
by cutters: from the bar to the junction of the 
Cahabon river, large launches are employed, and 
from thence large fiat-bottomed canoes. In the se- 
cond place, the route from Las Bodegas to the ca- 
pital, by the Polochic, is much shorter than that 
by Zacapa; as from Guatemala to the place of 
embarkation, called Ave Maria, about 11 leagues 
from Tucuru, the distance is 55 leagues, and this 
may be travelled with ease in 6 days ; from Ave 
Maria to the mouth of the Lagoon, 2 days ; thence 
to the Castillo, at most 2 days more ; so that the 



273 

transit from Guatemala to the Castillo, may be 
performed in 10 days. Thirdly, This route is more 
healthy than the other, and free from the exces- 
sive heats which have in that destroyed so many 
lives. Fourthly, There is an abundant supply of 
provisions^ as the lands of Verapaz are fertile in 
the extreme, consequently all articles of necessity 
are to be procured at the most moderate rate. In 
the years immediately subsequent to the con- 
quest, the navigation of the Polochic was prohi- 
bited ; but this was from circumstances that do 
not now exist : the first objection was from the 
missionaries having stipulated with the govern- 
ment^ that for a specified time none of the Spa- 
niards should be permitted to enter the province 
of Verapaz; but no such prohibition being now in 
force, the Spaniards traverse the country at their 
own pleasure, without the Indians objecting to it : 
besides this, the Indians themselves would be 
great gainers by this line of communication; for 
passengers, as well as the carriers, w^ould make 
from them purchases of such provisions as were 
required. Another motive for the original prohi- 
bition of this route was, that the Indians suffered 
severe hardships from the brutality of the traders, 
who loaded them, like beasts, with burdens dis- 
proportioned to their powers ; but this cause is 
now annihilated, — for even by the longer route of 
Zacapa, there are mules sufficient for the trans- 
port of any quantity of merchandise. 

In Verapaz there are several rare animals, which 
are not to be met with in any other part. The 
zachin, for example, a quadruped resembling a 
rat, about a span long, with a tail about 6 inches ; 
the superior part of the body is snuff coloured, 

T 



274 

and the inferior white ; the ears small and round, 
the eyes placed so low as to be almost on its 
snout; it emits so fetid a smell, that dogs will 
not attack it, unless they are much enraged : al- 
though so diminutive, it preys upon snakes, rats, 
birds, even those of large size; mountain cats, and 
deer, with all their velocity cannot escape it ; in 
poultry yards it makes great havoc, and the re- 
medy the Indians use to keep it away, is the 
smoke of chile ; within the houses it is very rarely 
caught, but in the open fields, or on the moun- 
tains, there is neither huntsman nor dog that 
can overtake it; it pays not respect to man, for 
it will attack him with great boldness, and the 
bite of it is so virulent, that the wounded part 
immediately swells, and fever ensues. 

The chion is a small bird, about the size of a 
canary, and of various colours : some are of a fine 
shining black; others have the head and upper 
part black, the breast and inferior parts white, 
and the wings spotted ; there are some yellow, 
like canaries, which they also resemble in song : 
this little creature cannot be domesticated, for 
they never survive 2 days of captivity. 

The chulpilchoc is a native bird of the cold 
and humid mountains of Verapaz; the plumage is 
black, except on the breast, which is scarlet ; it is 
about the size of a canary, but has no song, at 
least only a sort of short whistle. 

The raxon is one of the most beautiful birds 
known; it is an inhabitant only of the mild cli- 
mate of Verapaz, for great heat, or excessive cold 
are alike destructive to it. Nature has denied it 
song, but by fluttering its wings it makes a noise 
like that of a hawk's bell ; it is, therefore, only 



275 

estimable for the plumage: its height is about 
nine inches, the bill short, and eyes black; the 
feet are provided with three toes before, and one 
behind ; the feathers below the bill, and on all 
the front part, are purple : a ring round the neck, 
and the upper part of the body are of a lustrous 
emerald green, exquisitely beautiful ; the wings 
and tail are black. The female is larger than the 
male, but differing from him so much, as to seem 
a creature of a distinct species; the feathers are 
gray with streaks of white, but in the sun's rays 
they have a tinge of green. 



CHAP. XXII. 

Of the Reduction of the Choi, Lacandon, and 
Mopan Nations. 

The nation of the Choi Indians is settled in a 
country about 25 or 30 leagues distant from 
Cahabon, the last village in Verapaz, and far re- 
moved from the Manches : the conversion of this 
tribe was undertaken in 1674, by father Jos6 
Delgado, a Dominican. In the following year 
some of the Chols arrived at Guatemala, to en- 
treat that some ministers might be sent to instruct 
them, as they were desirous of becoming Chris- 
tians. The royal audiencia ordered^ Francisco 
Gallegos, the provincial of the order of St. Do- 
mingo, to depute proper persons to undertake this 
important mission ; the provincial himself deter- 
mined to go on the service, attended by Delgado: 
on arriving at Cahabon, they took some young In- 
dians as guides into the mountainous district; 
and, after a journey of 23 leagues, arrived at the 
dwellings of the Indians, who had visited the ca- 

T 2 



276 

pital. At this place they assembled as many of the 
Chols as they could collect ; and built a village 
which they named St. Luke, and soon afterward 
two others, not far distant from the first. They 
subsequently penetrated into the sierras farther 
to the north, and ascended a very lofty mountain, 
which was designated by the natives the God of 
the Hills. On the other side of this mountain 
were great numbers of inhabitants, who imme- 
diately came to visit the fathers; and these, having 
made them comprehend, that they had been sent 
by the Almighty for their instruction, were treated 
with great kindness and respect : the natives say- 
ing, that they appeared among them, like the sun, 
moon, and stars, to dispel the darkness of their 
ignorance. The Indians then cleared a road for 
them to advance farther into the country, and as 
they arrived at any difficult or rough part, care- 
fully carried them over it; in this manner they 
continued their route, and in the space of 8 leagues 
3 more villages were marked out. The rainy 
season was now approaching, and the fathers re- 
turned to Guatemala. 

In 1676, the same zealous missionaries again 
visited the Chols and the Manches, and encoun- 
tered much less of difficulty or fatigue than in 
either of their former journeys, as a more direct 
path had been opened for them ; they found the 
Indians still persevering in their designs, and that 
they had not forgotten such instruction as had 
been already afforded to them: many more settle- 
ments were formed, in which 23 4 persons were 
admitted to the rite of Christian baptism, besides 
many others, at the different dwellings and small 
settlements dispersed among the mountains. In 



^77 

1678, for what reason cannot now be discovered, 
the Chols returned to their native worship, aban- 
doned the villages, blocked np the roads, dis- 
persed among the mountains, and thus destroyed 
the expectations that had been raised at the ex- 
pense of so much labour and fatigue. 

In 1676, fresh orders were sent out from Spain 
to the governor, the bishop, and the alcalde 
mayor of Verapaz, to increase their endeavours 
to effect the conversion of the natives of this dis- 
trict. No attempt was made by the governor to 
carry these orders into execution until 1682, when 
they were communicated to the provincial of the 
Dominicans ; and in this year but few prepara- 
tions were made. In 1684, the bishop of Guate- 
mala signified to Don Enrique Enriquez de Guz- 
man, the governor, his intention of visiting the 
province of Verapaz, with the view of promoting 
under his immediate inspection the conversion of 
the infidels. The governor assembled a council, 
at which the bishop, the vicar-general, the pro- 
vincials of the orders of La Merced and St. Do- 
mingo, and the oidors, were present ; the propo- 
sal of the bishop was taken into consideration, 
and also the offers of the order of La Merced, to 
assist to their utmost ability in the work of con- 
version, by penetrating into the province from the 
district of Gueguetenango : the provincial of St. 
Domingo promised that some of the members of 
his order should, in the ensuing spring, proceed 
by the way of Verapaz on the same service, without 
incurring any expense to the government. It was 
determined at this council, that the necessary aid 
should be given in its greatest amplitude to these 
individuals. 



278 

In the beginning of 1685, the bishop, and Au- 
gustin Cano, the provincial of St. Domingo, set 
out for Verapaz; and Diego Rivas, provincial of 
La Merced, for Gueguetenango ; the curate of 
Cahabon dispatched five Indians to invite the 
Chols to celebrate the festival of Easter at Caha- 
bon : these messengers found that the dwellings 
of the natives had been burned ; they then pro- 
ceeded into the mountainous parts, and having 
met with the cacique and some other Indians, 
delivered the curate's invitation to them ; the chief 
took some time to consider the matter, and the 
messengers meanwhile having fallen asleep, were, 
in that situation, attacked, severely beaten with 
clubs, and dismissed without a reply : thus ter- 
minated the bishop's expedition. Augustin Cano 
got into the mountains, and met with some of the 
Chols, whom he persuaded to return and settle 
again in the village of St. Luke, where he also 
established some ministers : this, however, was 
insufficient to induce these Neophytes to remain 
long in a permanent habitation ; for about the end 
of the year 1688, they once more burned the vil- 
lage, and the missionaries who resided there nar- 
rowly escapedwith their lives. At this time, Don 
Jose Calvo de Lara was alcalde mayor of Vera- 
paz, and having obtained the licence of the gover- 
nor, he penetrated into the country of the Chols, 
with a body of the Cahabon Indians, and brought 
away as many of the natives as he could induce to 
follow him, whom he settled in the valley of Ur- 
ran, in the hopes, that being far removed from 
their mountain retreats, and occupying fertile 
lands, they would be tempted to remain and 
gradually improve their condition. Diego Rivas, 



279 

who had taken a different direction from that 
of the bishop, on arriving at Gueguetenango, 
shewed his dispatches to the corregidor, Don 
Melchor Mencos y Medrano; and that oflScer, 
ardently interesting himself in promoting the suc- 
cess of the mission, prepared every thing that 
was necessary to farther the instructions of the 
government, and accompanied the missionaries : 
they entered the country by the village of St. 
Eulalia, the whole company consisting of Rivas, 
and two others of his order, Juan de Santa Maria, 
of the order of Bethlem, the corregidor, and 10 
Spaniards. They penetrated into the mountains, 
and after 7 days' march, they met with some of 
the Lacandons, who, on perceiving them, imme- 
diately fled : Rivas and his companions supposed 
them to be spies, and fearing that if they should 
be attacked by the natives, there would not be 
sufficient force in their little party to repel the 
assailants, determined upon a retreat. 

In 1686, the king's commands for the conversion 
of this nation were repeated, and on the 24th of 
November, 1692, the council of the Indies trans- 
mitted a dispatch ordering the conquest of the 
Chols and the Lacandons, to be undertaken si- 
multaneously from the provinces of Verapaz, 
Chiapa, and Gueguetenango ; but when this dis- 
patch reached Guatemala, the governor, Don Ja- 
cinto de Barrios Leal, had been interdicted from 
the exercise of his official functions, and there- 
fore the orders were not then carried into effect. 
In 1694, the president, having been restored to 
his employments, began, at the instigation of the 
missionaries, Melchor Lopez and Antonio Mar- 
gil, who had already made repeated efforts to 



280 

convert the Chols and Lacandons, with bad suc- 
cess and personal ill-treatment, to make prepara- 
tions for a fresh attempt. Contributions were 
demanded from the inhabitants of the capital to 
defray the expenses of the campaign, men were 
raised, provisions and arms collected, as well as 
every thing else required for the service. A 
general council was assembled to make such 
definitive arrangements as would ensure the suc- 
cess of the undertaking. Every thing being in 
readiness by the commencement of 1695, Barrios 
in person took command, and leaving Bartolorae 
de Amezquita, fiscal of the royal audiencia, as his 
deputy, advanced by Ocozingo, a village of the 
province of Chiapa. Captain Juan Diaz de Ve- 
lasco was appointed to command the troops in- 
tended to proceed by Verapaz, and captain Tho- 
mas de Mendoza y Guzman to conduct those 
who were to march to Gueguetenango. The 
whole force was divided into 9 companies, 5 
consisting entirely of Spaniards, and 4 of In- 
dians ; of which, 3 of Spaniards and 2 of In- 
dians were to attend the governor ; one of Spa- 
niards, and another of Indians, under Mendo- 
za; and the other two under Velasco : several 
ecclesiastics attended each of these divisions, 
among whom was the indefatigable Margil. In 
January, 1695, the troops marched from Guate- 
mala, and on reaching Gueguetenango, the gover- 
nor reconnoitered the villages of St. Eulalia and 
St. Matthew, by which route it was intended to 
enter the Indian territory, and left in them a suf- 
ficient force for their protection in case of neces- 
sity. He continued his march by Ocozingo^ and 
being joined at that place by the troops from Ciu- 



281 

dad Real and Tabasco, he divided his forces, 
sent Yelasco, with his division, to Cahabon, and 
ordered that the 3 detachments should enter 
the hilly country by the respective routes that 
had been before determined, on the 28th of Fe- 
bruary. 

On the last day of February, captain Melchor 
Rodriguez Mazariegos, with Diego Rivas, 3 mis- 
sionaries of the order of La Merced, Pedro de 
la Concepcion, a Franciscan, and his 2 compa- 
nies, left the village of St. Matthew Istaban ; 
having advanced with great difficult}^ through 
swamps and thickets, and over broken ground, 
the whole of the month of March, observed, on 
Good Friday, the 1st of April, the prints of naked 
feet ; they followed these traces : Pedro de la 
Concepcion, and 4 Indians, preceded the main 
body, and on their sixth day's journey disco- 
vered a village of the Lacandons, which he called 
Nuestra Sefiora de los Dolores, because the foot- 
steps which directed them to it had been disco- 
vered on Good Friday. Pedro was forced to 
enter the village alone, because the Indians were 
unwilling to accompany him; he addressed him- 
self as well as he was able to the natives, endea- 
voured to obtain their good will, and afterward 
returned to the camp to give an account of his dis- 
covery. The troops then advanced by the same 
road, and reached the village on the 9th, but 
found it quite deserted ; it contained 100 houses, 
besides 2 others much larger, that appeared to have 
been appropriated to the public business of the 
community, and one still larger that was the place 
of worship ; this house the fathers selected for 
their own residence, and having burned all the 



282 

idols they could find, converted the principal 
room of it into a chapel : the troops were quar- 
tered in the other houses. Soldiers were sent 
out in all directions in search of the fugitives, 
and also to look for the governor, whom Rodri- 
guez met with on the 19th of April, and conducted 
with the troops to the village. At this place, the 
governor determined to construct a wooden fort, 
which was completed without loss of time, and a 
garrison of 30 Spanish soldiers and 15 Indians 
was stationed in it : some of the troops were now 
permitted to return to Guatemala; 4 of these 
soldiers surprised 5 of the Lacandons, and went 
back with them to the village : these 5 were the 
means of inducing 92 more, and among them 
Cabnal, the cacique, to return ; they were received 
with kindness, their houses given up to them, and 
the soldiers lodged in huts without the village. 
More Indians continued to arrive, until the num- 
ber amounted to 400, most of whom were bap- 
tized. No discoveries had yet been made of the 
Itzaex Indians ; and as the rainy season was near 
at hand, it was judged expedient to return with 
the troops to the capital, leaving only the garrison 
in the fort, and some of the missionaries to pursue 
the work thus favourably commenced. 

Velasco, with his detachment, accompanied by 
Augustin Cano, and other ecclesiastics, left Ca- 
habon, on the 28th of February, according to his 
orders : he proceeded by the mountains, and after 
marching a few leagues, began to meet with some 
of the same Choi Indians who had run away from 
the village established by Gallegos in 1675 ; hav- 
ing convinced them that it was intended to treat 
them peaceably and with kindness, 500 were 



283 

soon collected, who expressed their willingness 
to settle in villages, which was immediately done, 
and these settlers induced many more to join 
them. The domiciliated Chols soon gave infor- 
mation of the Mopans, a fierce and warlike tribe, 
spread over about 30 leagues of country, among 
whom neither Spaniards nor missionaries had 
ever yet ventured. The description given of this 
people, instead of discouraging the soldiers, ex- 
cited their emulation, and they prepared to go in 
search of them. The commander having made 
the necessary dispositions, they departed, and 
with much labour cleared their way over preci- 
pices, rocks, and ravines, until they came in sight 
of the hovels of the people they were in search of: 
the number of families in this nation, we have 
been assured, amounted to between 10 and 12,000, 
dwelling in a country of exquisite beauty and 
great fertility, in a climate the most agreeable of 
any that had yet been discovered. On the first 
sight of the Spaniards, the natives were alarmed, 
and gave unequivocal demonstrations of making 
a stout resistance; but the judicious measures of 
the missionaries, and the prudence of the com- 
mander, so much disarmed their resentment, and 
calmed their apprehensions, that they soon opened 
a friendly intercourse : the result of which w-as, 
that the caciques were brought together, per- 
suaded to exchange their present mode of life for 
a domestic one, and accept the offer of being ad- 
mitted to the benefits of Christianity. Intelli- 
gence of what had been eflfected was sent to the 
governor at the village of Dolores, and also to the 
royal audiencia ; submitting to their considera- 
tion, that advantages would accrue in building a 



284 

town in Mopan, to be inhabited by Spaniards ; as 
the land was of the excellent quality already men- 
tioned, and the situation eligible for facilitating 
the reduction of the whole to settledhabits of life ; 
from being in the centre of the unreclaimed nations, 
having Choi on the south, the Itza on the east and 
north, and the Lacandon on the west. The troops 
continued their march until they reached the ex- 
tremity of Mopan, and pitched their camp about 
40 leagues from the lake of Itza, having traversed 
82 leagues of very mountainous country. On 
quitting this situation, the detachment pursued 
a route to the river Chaxal, 10 leagues distant 
from Itza. Velasco thought of passing the river, 
and attempting the conquest of Peten; but the 
missionaries represented to him, that, as the num- 
bers of the Itzaes were reported to be very great, 
their present force was inadequate to undertake 
so important an enterprise, more particularly as 
the soldiers began to be unhealthy, provisions to 
grow scarce, and the wet season was fast ap- 
proaching : the commander acknowledged the 
force of these arguments, and determined to re- 
treat ; but before leaving the territory of Mopan, 
a fort was constructed, and garrisoned by 30 sol- 
diers, with some Indians, under the command of 
Pedro Ramirez de Orosco. 

As soon as Barrios, the governor, had returned 
to the capital, he began to prepare for another 
campaign in the ensuing spring, and consulting 
the council on the subject, it was determined to 
penetrate again by Verapaz with 150 men, and 
by Gueguetenango with 100: Barrios intended to 
have taken the command of this expedition also, 
but he died before the spring. Don Jose de £s- 



285 

cals, senior member of the royal audiencia, suc- 
ceeded to the post of governor, and continued the 
preparations for the campaign : he nominated 
Bartholom6 de Amezquita, oidor of the audiencia, 
to command the division of Verapaz; and Jacobo 
de Alcayaga, regidor of the city, to that of Gue- 
guetenango. In January, 1696, the troops left 
Guatemala; Alcayaga, with his division, took 
the road for the village of Los Dolores ; and on 
his arrival there, he found it occupied by upwards 
of 500 Indians, who had become Christians, and 
were leading a quiet and domestic life. Having 
refreshed his men, he resumed his march, accom- 
panied by Rivas and other ecclesiastics, in search 
of two more Lacandon villages, called Peta and 
Mop, of which he had received infonuation, and 
discovered them four days afterward ; he was 
well received by the inhabitants, and the caciques 
gave their promise that they would remove to 
Los Dolores. Peta contained 117 families, and 
Mop 105. Not expecting to meet with any more 
Lacandons, he resolved upon building 15 boats, 
and embarking all his men on the river of Lacan- 
don, in the hope of discovering the lake of Itza. 
After coursing many leagues both up and down the 
river, for the space of 2 months, without finding 
it, or even obtaining any intelligence that was use- 
ful;, he determined upon returning, and reached 
Dolores on the 29th of April. An account of 
his progress was sent to Guatemala, and he after- 
ward received orders to return thither, leaving 
a garrison in the fort of Dolores. 

It being intended to build a church at Dolores, 
the Indians place of Pagan worship was pulled 
down to make room for it: the destruction of 



286 

their temple so much displeased the caciques, 
Cabnal and Tustetac, that they retired to the 
mountains with all their followers; however, the 
missionaries, and the soldiers of the garrison, 
succeeded in persuading them to come back, and 
this too with additional numbers, as in searching 
for them among the heights, they found 4 more 
small villages, of which Melchor Lopez and An- 
tonio Margil had given information before. 

Amezqnita, with his force, reached Cahabon, 
and directing his march through the territory of 
the Chols, arrived at Mopan ; he then continued 
his route leisurely, but Velasco, whose impa- 
tience could not brook this slow progress, ear- 
nestly entreated permission to advance with a 
part of the troops at a quicker rate : his request 
was complied with, but accompanied with a 
strict injunction not to penetrate more than 6 
leagues beyond the River Chaxal. This command 
was not obeyed with the punctuality of a soldier, 
and he advanced as far as the lake, where, being 
attacked by the Itzaes, he was killed ; and all his 
men, about 100, shared the same fate. Amezquita 
pursued his route, but not meeting Velasco at 
the appointed place, continued his march with a 
small escort as far as the lake, without obtaining 
any intelligence of him ; he, therefore, returned to 
the Chaxal, where he had left the main body : 
from this place he sent an account of his opera- 
tions to the governor, and requested farther or- 
ders. At this time, Don Gabriel Sanchez de Ber- 
rospe had succeeded to the government, and com- 
municated the dispatches, as soon as he received 
them, to a council of war, at which the bishop, 
and several other persons, assisted : it was de- 



287 

cided, in this council, to recall both divisions of 
troops, to suspend the fortification that Amaz- 
quita had begun in the savanna of St. Pedro 
Martyr, and to abandon Mopan entirely ; that as 
many of the Choi Indians as could be induced to 
quit their country should be transferred to the 
valley of Urran, and that no farther attempt to 
convert them should be made until fresh orders 
should arrive from Spain. In compliance with 
this arrangement, the alcalde mayor of Verapaz, 
in concert with the curate of Cahabon, sent 150 
Indians into the wilderness to persuade some of 
the natives to join them; after much difficulty, 
they brought away 50 of the Chols that were 
called Uchins, whose huts had been burnt, and 
whom they found wandering among the moun- 
tains: the alcalde mayor of Amatique also sent 
some Indians from his jurisdiction, and they 
brought in 85 of the natives, who were afterward 
settled in Amatique: the Chols were placed in 
the village of Bethlem, whither the president sent 
clothing for them, which they received with every 
mark of satisfaction. 



CHAP. XXIIJ. 



Of the Conquest of Peten, and the Reduction of 
the Itzaes. 

The kingdom of Yucatan was known by the 
name of Maya, and its capital was called Maya- 
pan.* It was subject to a single chief, but after 
paying obedience to one monarch for a great 

* The substance of the present and preceding chapters has 
been taken from " the History of the Conquest of Itza," written 
by Don Juan de Gutierre y Sotomayor, an author whose cor- 



288 

number of years, the principal caciques revolted, 
and each declared himself independent lord of 
his own territory ; by this rebellion the supreme 
sovereign was deprived of all his dominions, with 
the exception of the province of Mani, whither he 
retired, after having destroyed the large city of 
Mayapan, about the year 1420. One of the re- 
bellious caciques was Canek, who headed the 
revolt in the proTince of Chichen Itza, distant 
about 20 leagues from the village of Tihoo, which 
is at present called Merida. Canek not consi- 
dering himself sufficiently secure in this situation, 
retired with all his party to the most concealed 
and impenetrable parts of the mountains : he also 
took possession of the islands in the lake of Itza, 
and fixed his residence in Peten, or the great 
island. In this new territory the partisans of 
Canek increased in number to a very extraor- 
dinary degree : for when Peten was conquered, he 
had under his authority 4 governments and 10 
provinces, each containing many villages ; in each 
of the 5 islands in the lake there were 22 divisions, 
and according to the computation of the mission- 
aries who went thither, there were in these islands 
alone from 24 to 25^000 inhabitants ; whilst the 
Indians who dwelt on the borders of the lake, and 
in the clusters of huts dispersed among the moun- 
tains, were, by the same persons, said to be almost 
innumerable. The conversion of the Itzaes was 
repeatedly attempted by the Franciscans of the 
province of St. Jose of Yucatan ; and one of them, 
Diego Delgado, lost his life in the enterprise, or, in 

rectness is unimpeached : the reader who may desire a more 
detailed account of these conquests than wha is here given, 
will be amply satisfied in consulting that work. 



289 

the language of his order, gained the crown of 
martyrdom. During the two campaigns narrated 
in the preceding chapter, it was the intention of 
the commander to get to the province of Itza if 
possible; and although Amezquita succeeded so 
far as to reach the lake, he was unable to pass 
over to the island of Peten: this arduous under- 
taking was however effected by the abilities and 
perseverance of Don Martin de Ursua y Ariz- 
mendi. This officer having, in 1692, the right of 
succession to the government of Yucatan, submit- 
ted a proposal to the king to make a road, at his 
own cost, from Yucatan to Guatemala; under an 
idea, that the intercourse which would thereby 
be opened between the province and the capital, 
could not fail to facilitate the conversion of the 
natives, by rendering those who were situated 
contiguous to the line of communication more 
domestic, and accustomed to the manners and 
habits of the Spaniards. The proposal of Ariz- 
mendi was extremely well received by the council 
of the Indies, and readily accepted; orders were 
immediately transmitted to the viceroy of Mexico, 
to the president of Guatemala, and to the bishop 
of Yucatan, enjoining each to afford Arizmendi 
every assistance that he might require : although 
these dispatches reached America in 1693, the or- 
ders were not carried into effect until 1695, when 
Ursua entered upon the government of Yucatan. 
The road was begun the same year ; in the first 
attempt it advanced but little : the work was re- 
sumed with a greater number of labourers in the 
month of June, commencing where a road had 
been begun several years before; they carried it 
forward 86 leagues, and established several vil- 

u 



290 

lages for the Indians, who had joined in the la- 
bours and become converts. Ursua experienced 
various difficulties, which prevented him from 
continuing his operations until the beginning of 
1697. In this interval, several embassies were in- 
terchanged between the governor of Guatemala 
and the king of Itza, and received at the respective 
courts with extraordinary solemnity ; but either 
from a want of sincerity in Canek, or from the 
extraordinary arrogance and insolence of his sub- 
jects, they were not attended with any favourable 
results. On the 24th of January, 1697, Ariz- 
mendi set out from Campeachey ; he sent a small 
force under Pedro de Subiaur in advance, with 
orders to halt near the lake, and cut wood for 
constructing a galliot of 45 feet keel, and a pyra- 
gua of smaller dimensions. In the month of 
Marchj the whole of the force reached the border 
of the lake, where they encamped, and threw up 
an intrenchment for security against surprise ; 
here they remained until the vessels were com- 
pleted. While they were thus preparing for 
farther operations, an Indian, a relation of Ca- 
nek's, and the same person who had been sent 
ambassador to Merida, paid a visit to the general; 
he was desirous of becoming a Christian, and was 
christened, receiving the name of Martin Can. 
Ursua received him with pleasure, and shewed 
him much attention : many inquiries were made 
on various subjects, to which he readily gave 
answers, and among other things related, that 
when he was on his return from Merida, the In- 
dians of Alain had informed him, that the people 
of Chata and Pue, contrary to the orders of Canek, 
had killed on the very spot where the camp then 



291 

was, the persons who came from Yucatan, and 
in the Savannah, those from Guatemala, whom 
they had surprised while asleep. A few days 
afterward, Chamaxzulu, the cacique of Alain, 
with several other principal persons, arrived at the 
camp : there was also perceived a squadron of 
canoes approaching ; that of the chief bearing a 
white flag: in these boats came the chief priest 
Quincanek, first cousin of the king Canek, ac- 
companied by Kitcan, chief of another party ; 
they were all welcomed with great ceremony, re- 
ceived presents, and were feasted in the best 
manner that circumstances would permit. Al- 
though they all came as messengers of peace, de- 
clared that they ardently desired the friendship of 
the Spaniards, and wished to be made Christians, 
yet the preparations observed among those of the 
lake, as well as those on shore, demonstrated 
their intentions to be warlike; the military officers 
readily perceiving that all these external signs of 
peace and amity were nothing more than treache- 
rous attempts to deceive, judged it expedient to 
declare war against them, and enter their terri- 
tories with fire and sword, to punish their deceit, 
and to avenge the death they had inflicted on the 
Spaniards. But the general, Ursua, firm in his 
determination to preserve peace as long as possi- 
ble, issued an order, prohibiting, on pain of death, 
either officer or soldier to commit any act of ag- 
gression against the Indians. As soon as the 
vessels were equipped, Martin de Ursua^ with 
108 Spanish soldiers, and Juan Pacheco, the 
ecclesiastical vicar, with his deputy, embarked ; 
leaving the camp defended by 127 soldiers, and 
many auxiliary Indians, with two pieces of ar- 

u 2 



tillery, 2 wall pieces, and 8 falconets, under tlie 
command of Juan Francisco Cortes. At dawn 
of day the galliot was under sail for the island of 
Peten ; and now it became most unequivocally 
apparent, that all the proposals for peace w^ere 
deceptive; the lake was almost covered with 
canoes, all directing their course towards the 
vessels^ and as soon as they came within reach, a 
most furious discharge of arrows took place ; the 
island was now perceived to be covered with 
armed people. The Indians kept up so continual 
a discharge of arrows, that it was alleged to be a 
miracle wrought in favour of the Spaniards, that 
none of them were killed ; only two were wound- 
ed, one of whom being exasperated by the pain 
forgot the general's order, and fired his musket : 
this example was followed by all the others, in 
spite of every interposition of the officers to pre- 
vent such retaliation. The vessel touched the 
island, the soldiers jumped ashore, and kept up 
a continued discharge of musketry ; the noise of 
which so terrified the enemy, that they sought 
safety in a precipitate flight : those of the island, 
as well as those from the canoes, leaped into 
the water in such numbers, that from Feten to 
the main land there was nothing to be seen but 
the heads of Indians, endeavouring to save them- 
selves by swimming. The Spaniards entered the 
great town of the island called Tayasal, which 
they found deserted ; the Spanish colours were 
hoisted on the most elevated point of Peten : the 
troops celebrated their victory by a thanksgiving 
for their escape from a danger so imminent, and 
the name of Nuestra Seiiora de los Remedios y 
St. Pablo was given to the island. This success 



^9S 

was obtained on the 13th of March, 1697 ; on the 
following day the territory was taken possession 
of in the name of the king of Spain, and the 
charge of it delivered to Juan de Pacheco, whom 
the bishop had appointed ecclesiastical vicar : in 
token of possession, the Pagan place of worship 
was dedicated as a Christian church ; water was 
consecrated, and afterward mass celebrated, at 
which the general and all the troops assisted. So 
great was the number of idols found in 21 places 
of worship that were in the island^ as well as in 
the private houses, that the general, officers, and 
soldiers, were unremittingly employed from 9 
o'clock in the morning until 5 in the afternoon 
in destroying them. 

Three or four days after this conquest, some of 
the Indians began to return to the island ; and 
among them came 17 from Alain, one of the 
smaller islands : these Ursua employed in conti- 
nuing the road that had been opened from Yu- 
catan, until it joined that from Verapaz, which 
service they cheerfully performed. The general 
endeavoured by all possible means to attract the 
Indians to the islands, and those who came vo- 
luntarily he received and treated with the utmost 
kindness. In this demonstration of good will, 
Ursua was greatly assisted by his godson, the 
newly-converted Martin Can ; he brought many 
families to Peten, and among others Camaxzulu, 
the cacique of Alain ; this chief, in his turn, per- 
suaded the king, Canek, and the chief priest, 
Quincanek, to come to Peten : the report of the 
kind reception given by the Spaniards to those 
who had taken courage to return, soon brought 
many others to submit to the authority of the 



294 

king^of Spain. The other islands in the lake 
very soon submitted, without employing force 
against them. Amezquita sent a message to Co- 
box, the cacique of the Coboxes, who inhabited 
12 villages on the borders of the lake, expressing 
his wish for an interview : the Indian chief replied, 
that he would be happy to receive his excellency 
at his own residence, as he and all his subjects 
were very desirous of having the honour of his 
visit. Ursua embarked with 40 men on board the 
galliot^ and proceeded to the territories of the Co- 
boxes. These Indians approached without arms 
to meet him, manifesting the greatest satisfaction 
at his arrival ; the cacique himself entertained 
them with kindness, and offered submission in 
the name of his subjects, and also for himself. 
The Spaniards returned to their vessel, and coast- 
ing along the shores of the lake, visited the other 
villages of the Coboxes, at all of which they were 
received as friends. When Ursua saw himself 
completely master of Itza, he sent two officers, 
Alonzo Garcia de Paredes, Jose de Ripalda On- 
gay, and an escort of 10 soldiers, to Guatemala, 
with dispatches for the president and the royal 
audieucia, giving a detail of the successful termi- 
nation of his expedition, a description of the island, 
and the advantages that might be derived from 
it ; adding, that in order to preserve the conquest 
just achieved, it would be requisite to maintain 
there a garrison of 50 men ; but, that much as he 
wished to support this force, at his own cost, by 
the great expense he had incurred in opening the 
road, and in subjecting Peten, his finances were 
now so much exhausted as not to permit his 
taking that additional charge upon himself; and. 



295 

for this reason alone, he now appealed to the 
royal audiencia for assistance. The court, in re- 
ply to these dispatches, gave Ursua many thanks, 
in the name of the king, for the important ser- 
vices he had rendered to the crown of Spain, 
ordered him to select the necessary number of 
men for the garrison from those under his com- 
mand, and to appoint the proper officers, at the 
same time sending him money for their mainte- 
nance. The commander immediately set about 
building a redoubt on one of the most elevated 
situations in Peten ; he appointed captain Jose de 
Estenoz governor, placing under his orders, toge- 
ther with the fort, its artillery and provisions, the 
galliot, with its captain, crew, and 25 soldiers: 
the king Canek, Quincanek the priest, and an- 
other relation of the king, against whom some 
crimes had been clearly proved, he left as pri- 
soners, under charge of Estenoz. The island of 
Peten was by this time sufficiently well peopled 
by the return of its former inhabitants : the other 
islands were all reduced to obedience : 18 vil- 
lages had also submitted: the work on the road 
was proceeding, and as the period of the rainy 
season was near at hand, Ursua determined to 
return with the troops to Campeachey. 

In the early part of 1698, Ursua received let- 
ters from the vicar of Itza, which gave an account 
of Canek, Quincanek, and many others, having 
become converts, and received the sacrament of 
baptism. About the same time, Alonzo Garcia 
de Paredes arrived at Campeachey, on his return 
from Guatemala, and informed him the road that 
had been made from the lake to Verapaz was 
considerably too long, and that the president 



W6 

wished another to be opened which should, if 
possible, be shorter and more direct; in com- 
pliance with this request, Ursua employed Pedro 
de Subiaur, and the pilot, Antonio de Carabajal, 
with troops for their protection, to survey and 
mark out a nearer road to Verapaz : this they per- 
formed, making the distance from the lake to St. 
Augustin, one of the villages of Verapaz, no more 
than 35 leagues. About the same period, the It- 
zaes, in one night, without any previous intima- 
tion of such design, suddenly abandoned the 
island, leaving behind them only the 3 prisoners 
and 12 women. A few days afterward they 
came back again, but only the women consented 
to remain in it, most of w^hom became converts. 
On the 24th of January, this year (1698), orders 
were again received from Spain, by the viceroy of 
Mexico, the governor of Guatemala, and the go- 
vernor of Yucatan, for continuing all possible ef- 
forts to effect the conversion of the natives ; and 
that they were to endeavour to settle some of 
them, by families, along the line of the new road, 
in order to ensure, at convenient distances, suffi- 
cient accommodation for travellers. The king 
also communicated to Ursua his particular thanks 
for the zeal and application he had shewn in his 
arduous undertaking, and appointed him gover- 
nor and captain-general over all the territory that 
might be acquired by opening the new road ; he 
was to be subordinate to the viceroy of New 
Spain, but independent of the governor of Yuca- 
tan, which appointment w^as made public in the 
town of Campeachey in November the same year. 
Animated by these marks of royal favour, Ursua 
left Campeachey for Peten in January 1699, and 



297 

arrived there on the 11th of February; he was 
received at the garrison by the troops and other 
persons with every demonstration of joy. In the 
beginning of January, 4 oflScers and 200 soldiers 
set out from Guatemala; one division, under the 
command of Estevan de Medrano^ marched for 
the village of Dolores; and another, under the 
general of cavalry, Melchor Mencos, who was the 
commander in chief, took the route of Verapaz, 
for the isle of Los Remedios. For this isle the 
governor sent also 8 missionaries, several ar- 
mourers, blacksmiths, carpenters, bricklayers, 
caulkers, and other artisans ; many Indian la- 
bourers, 25 families to be settled on such lands 
as might be found convenient, and also upwards 
of 1200 head of cattle and horses for the purpose 
of breeding. On the 14th of March, Martin de 
Ursua, with the governor and officers of the gar- 
rison, left the island, and advanced about a league 
on the main land to meet the two commanders, 
Medrano and Mencos : after an interchange of 
civilities, the whole party embarked on board the 
galliot, and passed over to the island. Here a 
contest of courtesy took place between the two 
generals, Ursua and Mencos, each wishing to 
serve under the orders of the other, which was 
finally terminated by agreeing that they should 
issue the necessary orders conjointly. A council 
of war was then held, in which it was resolved, 
that the town his majesty had ordered to be built 
should be founded on the margin of the lake ; 
that a reinforcement of 30 men should be attached 
to the garrison, because there still remained 15 
nations of Indians, to the eastward of Peten, to 
be brought under subjection; that the new road 



9M 

marked out by Siibiaiir should be completed, and 
huts, bridges, and canoes built; that 50 Indians 
should be retained to cultivate milpas, or corn 
lands, for the public service, until 40 families of 
domesticated Indians could be sent from Guate- 
mala to be employed in raising maize and pulse 
to supply the island. After this council broke up, 
the two generals sent the captain Juan Gonzalez, 
with a party of 12 soldiers, to look after the divi- 
sion that had marched for Dolores, and which 
ought to have joined the other party before this 
time; they did not arrive at Peten until the 1st 
of April, having lost their way, and wandered 
at random for 12 days. Captain Cristoval de 
Mendia with 30 men was sent to the deserted 
isle of Alain ; captain Marcelo Flores with his 
company to the territory of the Coboxes ; captain 
Marcos de Avalos had previously been sent out 
with a foraging party to collect maize, as had the 
Alferez Juan Guerrero with 40 soldiers for Zoche- 
macal. All these officers received orders to use 
every endeavour to bring in the Indians who had 
retired to the mountains, or to persuade them, 
if possible, to return to their villages; and in fact 
great numbers were by their diligence and in- 
dustry prevailed upon to resume their former ha- 
bitations. After these operations it was resolved, 
as the health of the troops began to be impaired, 
to retire from the territory for the present; another 
council was held to appoint a commander of the 
fort, the soldiers that were to remain in garrison, 
and for the arrangement of other affairs. The 
different companies then commenced their march 
for Guatemala, taking the same routes by which 
they had arrived : general Mencos followed them 



^99 

with the company of Marcos de Avalos, to whom 
were also delivered the prisoners Canek, now 
called after his conversion Don Jos6 Pablo 
Canek, his son, and his cousin, who had, as it 
was presumed, instigated the Indians to their 
recent flight. After these departures, general 
Ursua and his troops set out on their return to 
Yucatan. 

AtPeten there remained Juan Francisco Cortes^ 
as governor, judge of the province, and command- 
er of the garrison ; Bernardo Guerrero, captain 
of the galliot; a surgeon, armourer, carpenter, 
and other mechanics ; the ecclesiastical vicar, 
Pedro de Morales ; Diego Rivas, and four eccle- 
siastics ; 14 families of Spaniards, some Indian 
servants, and the Indian labourers employed in 
cultivating the mil pas. Soon after the arrival of 
Ursnaat Campeachey, Don Roque Soberanis, the 
governor, died ; and he succeeded him as captain- 
general and governor of Yucatan ; to which he also 
united the government of Itza. Melchor Mencos 
arrived safely at Guatemala with his prisoners, 
who excited much interest among the inhabitants 
of that city, and were lodged at the residence of 
Mencos; how they were finally disposed of is 
now unknown, as the history of Villagutierre ter- 
minates with their arrival. There is no doubt but 
that the reduction of the Itzaes was completed, 
as, in the year 1759, there were in the district of 
Peten 7 villages, besides the chief place, which 
were served bv 5 curates. 



300 



CHAP. XXIV. 

Of the Wars carried on by the Spaniards in the 
Province of Chiquimula. 

The province of Chiquimula de la Sierra was 
conquered by Juan Perez Dardon, Sancho de 
Baraona, and Bartolome Bezerra, acting under 
the directions of Pedro de Alvarado ; but not one 
of the historians of the kingdom has given a de- 
tail of the particular events of this conquest. Juan 
Godines, Juan Diaz, and Francisco Hernandez, 
chaplains of the army, were the first who attempt- 
ed to introduce the doctrines of Christianity into 
this province; the Regulars, it is certain, never 
undertook the task, as none of the records of any 
of the orders make mention of it, nor have they 
had at any time missions within the province. In 
the year 1530, the capital having been thrown 
into some disorder by the arrival and extraordi- 
nary proceedings of the visitor Orduiia, many of 
the Indians, and among others those of the dis- 
trict of Chiquimula, seized that opportunity of re- 
lieving themselves from the yoke of the Spaniards, 
and recovering their ancient independence. When 
this intelligence reached Guatemala, the inhabit- 
ants, though suffering much from the oppressions 
of Orduiia, were animated by a fervent zeal for 
the service of the king, and lost no time in making 
the necessary preparations for bringing the rebels 
back to their duty. Hernando de Chaves and 
Pedro Amalin were appointed to take commands 
in this service of danger ; they set out immediately 
with the troops, and directed their march to the 



301 

great village of Esquipulas, the principal object 
of the expedition. 

The Indians of Jalpatagua, a people of a fierce 
and turbulent character, attempted to oppose the 
passage of the troops, but, after some smart re- 
pulses, they desisted, and left the road clear. The 
soldiers experienced great fatigues in fording the 
large rivers that intersect the country, and not 
less difficulty in procuring provisions ; but their 
fortitude was superior to every impediment, and 
they penetrated into the rebellious province. Be- 
fore they reached the village of Mitlan, they were 
attacked by its inhabitants, assisted by their al- 
lies. These fought with great fury and determi- 
nation^ and did not relinquish the contest until 
their lines had been three times broken. At 
length they dispersed, and Mitlan was taken 
possession of by the Spaniards. They halted 
here 6 or 7 days, and made overtures of peace to 
the Indians. In this interval, a very seasonable 
reinforcement of 40 infantry and 20 cavalry, with 
an abundant supply of ammunition and provi- 
sions, joined the main body from Guatemala. 
Thus strengthened and well supplied, after the 
troops had sufficiently rested, they set out for Es- 
quipulas : on their march, they very nearly en- 
countered a serious disaster ; for being encamped 
on the acclivity of a hill, about night-fall, the 
officers, on examining the situation, thought the 
position not sufficiently secure, and determined to 
remove the camp : they ordered the men to strike 
the tents, descend in silence from the eminence, 
and pitch them again in a little valley below, that 
was much better protected against a sudden sur- 
prise; the troops had not been in this new po- 



302 

sition above two hours, when the whole caiiip was 
alarmed by tremendous yells, and they shortly 
saw the eminence whereon they had first encamp- 
ed enveloped in flames. The march toward Es- 
quipulas was immediately resumed, and, before 
reaching that place, they sustained two furious at- 
tacks from the Indians ; one in passing a ravine, 
and another near a village that had been deserted. 
These attacks were resisted with their usual cou- 
rage ; the enemy was repulsed with very great 
loss, and the Spaniards advanced until they ar- 
rived within view of the intrenchments before 
Esquipulas. This was the capital ; a strong place 
of arms belonging to a powerful cacique, being 
surrounded by strong works, and these defended 
by a great number of warriors. The Spaniards 
encamped very near to the intrenchments, and 
offered peace to the inhabitants and their de- 
fenders, as had been prescribed to the command- 
ers by the king's orders. Three days were de- 
manded to consider what answer should be given 
to these proposals ; on the fourth they gave their 
decision^ which was, that '^ more out of respect 
'to the public tranquillity than from fear of the 
Spanish arms, they had determined to surren- 
der ;" and some of the chief men were sent to the 
Spanish camp as hostages. The troops then en- 
tered Esquipulas, and took up their quarters in 
the houses with the inhabitants, while prepara- 
tions were made for rebuilding the villages that 
had been destroyed. Thus the whole province of 
Chiquimula submitted to the invaders, in the 
month of April, 1530.— (Lib. 1, de Cabildos, fol. 
162.) 

As the cacique of Copan, whose name was Co- 



303 

pan Calel, had been one of the prhicipal persons 
in exciting the chiefs of Chiquimula and Esqui- 
pulas to revolt, and had also assisted th^ni in car- 
rying on the war against the Spaniards, Hernando 
de Chaves determined to punish him for these 
acts of aggression ; and, as Esquipulas was now 
effectually subdued, to undertake the reduction 
of Copan. This city was one of the largest, most 
opulent, and most populous of the kingdom; the 
great circus, the cave of Tibulca^ and other very 
sumptuous edifices^ the remains of which are still 
in existence, bear ample testimony to the mag- 
nificence of the capital, now entirely deserted. 
The place is now known by the name of the 
Valley of Copan, situated on the boundary line 
between the provinces of Chiquimula and Co- 
mayagua ; it was at one time within the ju- 
risdiction of the first, but at present belongs to 
the latter, province. When the Spaniards arrived 
before it, it was so well prepared for defence as to 
be able to hold out not only against the small 
number of its assailants, but even against a large 
and powerful army : for, besides the numerous 
force belonging to the cacique, he was assisted by 
the troops of Zacapa, Sensenti, Guixar, and Us- 
tua ; so that he was able to form a camp of 
30,000 combatants, all well disciplined, and ve- 
terans in war, equipped with macanas (or wooden 
swords with stone edges), arrows, and slings, and 
well stored with provisions for a long time. On 
one side, the place was defended by the ranges of 
mountains of Chiquimula and Gracias a Dios; on 
the opposite side, by a deep fosse, and an in- 
trenchment formed of strong beams of timber, 
having the interstices filled with earth, in which 



304 

embrasures and loopholes were made, to enable 
the besieged to discharge their arrows against the 
assailants, under its protection from the tire of 
the latter. The Spaniards encamped a small dis- 
tance from this work ; and soon after, Chaves, 
accompanied by Gaspar de Polanco and some 
horsemen well armed, advanced towards the 
ditch, and made a sign that he wished to hold a 
conference with the caciques : this was acceded 
to ; when Chaves, by means of an interpreter, de- 
livered a speech, in which he invited them to pre- 
serve peace by an amicable arrangement : the In- 
dians, however, being determined upon war, re- 
jected every proposal ; and when the cacique had 
finished his reply he discharged an arrow ; this 
was the signal for a general attack upon Chaves 
and his squadron, that was immediately obeyed 
by a shower of arrows, stones, and pikes, which 
fell about them in such numbers, that the Spa- 
niards were under the necessity of saving them- 
selves by a precipitate retreat. 

This refusal on the part of Copan Calel greatly 
embarrassed Chaves in his operations ; but after 
several consultations with his principal officers, 
he determined to make an attack the following 
day, upon a part of the intrenchment which ap- 
peared to him the least likely to make a vigorous 
defence. The infantry were, for this particular 
service, provided with loose coats stuffed with 
cotton, armed with swords, and each man carry- 
ing a shield for his defence ; the horses were co- 
vered, and their riders protected by breastplates 
and helmets : thus accoutred they advanced to« 
wards the fortifications ; the assault, however^ was 
vigorously repelled by the Copanes, who were 



305 

prepared for it ; each man having a shield covered 
with Ihe sicin of the danta on his arm, and his 
head guarded by bunches of feathers: the attack 
was renev^ed, and lasted the whole day ; but the 
Indians plied their arrows, javelins, and pikes, 
with the ends hardened by fire, with so much 
dexterity, that they maintained their post: great 
numbers of them were killed by the Spanish cross- 
bows, and the fire of the arquebuses; but these 
were immediately replaced by others, and Chaves 
seeing many of his own troops wounded, thought 
it advisable to retreat. This brave officer, who 
had fought in the thickest of the conflict, after- 
ward deliberated, maturely and solicitpusly, upon 
the difficulties of an enterprise undertaken entirely 
upon his own responsibility ; he considered how 
irreparably the credit of the Spanish arms would 
suffer, were he to fail in achieving the object of 
his expedition : reviewing in his mind the arduous 
situation in which he stood, he was at a loss how 
to meet the dilemma, or what advice to follow. In 
this interval of anxiety, information was brought, 
that the ditch which defended Copan was not 
equally deep in all parts, and one place was par- 
ticularly pointed out where the depth was but 
trifling. Encouraged by this news, he proceeded 
on the following day to that spot, with the deter- 
mination of making an attack; his progress thi- 
ther did not escape the observation of the brave 
Copanes, who attentively observed every motion 
of their enemies : as soon as they perceived this 
movement, they manned the intrenchment with 
their bravest soldiers, who valiantly resisted every 
effort to approach the defences; as the infanlry 
were unable to make a lodgment on the intrench- 

X 



306 

ment, the cavalry advanced to their assistance, 
and a very sanguinary contest ensued : the Indians 
brought their whole force to secure this point, and 
the Spaniards persevering with unconquerable in- 
trepidity, stood like rocks, impassible to the pikes, 
arrows, and stones, of their opponents, which v^'ere 
incessantly showered upon them. Several times 
the infantry attempted to scale the intrenchment, 
but the force of the stones and lances, which they 
received upon their shields, tumbled them back- 
wards into the fosse : this valiant resistance, how- 
ever, cost the Indians innumerable lives. The 
battle continued long without the appearance of 
advantage on either side; at last, the determined 
courage of Juan Vazquez de Osuna decided the 
fortune of the day: this brave soldier, clapping 
spurs to his horse, leaped the ditch, and the ani- 
mal being carried by the violence of the exer- 
tion, with its chest against the barrier, part of 
the earth and palisades gave way ; the noise of 
the cracking timbers frightened the horse, and 
he plunged among the Indians who were near 
the spot, which so much alarmed them that they 
fled ; many other horsemen immediately foHowed 
this daring example, and passed through the 
breach : the horses spread such terror among the 
Copanes, that, being attacked once more by the 
Spaniards, their lines were broken, and a defeat 
ensued; Copan Calel, however, was not yet con- 
quered ; he rallied his scattered troops, at a place 
where he had posted a body of reserve, and made 
a last effort to preserve his liberty : these sol- 
diers, brave and dexterous as they were in the 
use of their weapons, were too few in number to 
reti-ieve his losses; they were unable long to resist 



307 

the Spanish arms, and suffered an overthrow. In 
this desperate state of his fortunes, the resources 
of the valiant cacique were not yet exhausted ; 
he left Copan to its fate, and retired to Sitala, a 
town at the extremity of his dominions: at this 
place he obtained reinforcements from the neigh- 
bouring* chiefs. Finding himself once more able to 
undertake offensive operations, and his courage 
inspiring him with hopes of Success, he advanced 
against his former capital, now in possession of 
his enemies ; twice he attempted to repair his mis- 
fortunes, but these efforts only added to his late 
losses, that of most of his best officers and men ; 
he was entirely routed, and his army destroyed : 
at last, taught by ill success that resistance was 
unavailing, and being urged by the advice of 
his friends, he consented to submit to the king of 
Spain's authority. Copan Calel retired to the 
neighbouring mountains, and sent ambassadors 
with a present of gold, feathers, and a mantle, to 
Chaves, from whom they received a kind wel- 
come, and the necessary protection for the ca- 
cique to come to Copan, where he soon after ar- 
rived, and was treated with great distinction and 
kindness by Chaves. 



CHAP. XXV. 



Of remarkable Objects in the Province of 
Chiquimula. 

The lake of Atescatempa, near a village of the 
same name, in the curacy of Jutiapa, receives two 
large rivers, the Contipeque and the Yupitepeque, 
but there is no apparent outlet for the waters in 

x2 



308 

any part of its extent; a small distance from the 
borders of it, at a place called La Doncella, a 
great quantity of water issues from the earth, and 
forms a broad deep river ; as the discharge is al- 
ways regular, this opening can be no other than 
the channel by which the waters of the lake are 
draw n off. 

The celebrated cave of Peiiol is another extra- 
ordinary object in the province of Chiquimula ; 
the entrance to this cave is in the side of a moun- 
tain, on the estate called Peiiol, a hereditary 
possession in the family of Don Thomas Delgado 
de Naxera : the tradition of the country affirms, 
that it extends through the mountains towards 
the village of Mataquescuinte, as far as the Rio 
de los Esclavos, a distance of about 11 leagues. 
This extraordinary subterranean passage has been 
but little examined : captain Juan de Salazar 
Monzalve, nephew of Antonio de Salazar, one of 
the early conquerors, and maternal grandfather of 
Don Delgado de Naxera, once determined to pro- 
ceed to the extremity of it ; but was not able to 
advance more than three quarters of a league, 
although he repeated his attempt several times: 
for arriving at that distance his lights were ahvays 
extinguished, and without them every endeavour 
to proceed in total darkness was vain.* 

The same estate of Penol has also produced a 
much greater curiosity than the cavern, in some 
gigantic skeletons of such extraordinary dimen- 
sions, that of some the leg bones alone measured 

* Tlie vapour that exhales from this cavern is azotic gas, fatal 
to animals that respire it ; it speedily extinguishes lighted torches, 
and all bodies in a state of combustion. 



309 

7 quarters, and of others 2 varas, or 4 (eet 10 
inches, and 5 feet 6 inches English, in length, and 
all the other bones were of proportionate size. The 
historian Fuentes, who wrote in the year 1695, in 
torn. 2, lib. 4, cap. 11, mentions, that in his time 
Don T. Delgado Naxera and Don Christoval de 
Salazar carefully made several trials to extract 
some of these relics entire, for the purpose of re- 
moving them to Guatemala, but they could not 
succeed ; for when they attempted to lift any one 
of them from its bed, it crumbled to dust. A dis- 
covery so minutely described by an author gene- 
rally esteemed for ingenuousness and veracity, 
having the best means of information from his in- 
timacy with the two persons just named, who were 
both related to him, may be received with some 
degree of confidence. It would perhaps be im- 
pertinent to claim credibility for this discovery, 
by reminding the reader, upon the authority of 
Genesis, chap. vi. that men af gigantic stature ex- 
isted in the world, before the flood; and in times 
posterior to that event, we are informed by the 
17th of the First Book of Kings, that the Philistine 
Goliath measured upwards of 3 varas (8 feet) in 
height: but without reference to remote periods, 
it may suffice to adduce a modern instance in the 
person of Martin Salmeron, native of a place in 
the bishoprick of Puebla de los Angeles, v»^ho ar- 
rived at Guatemala on the 14th of August, 1800: 
the stature of this man was 2 varas and two thirds 
(7 feet 2), and his bulk in due proportion ; falling 
but little short of that of Goliath : this fact is fa- 
miliar to all the inhabitants of the city, as Martin 
exhibited himself publicly, at a real for each per- 
son. About 4 months afterward, chance con- 



310 

ducted to the same city a striking contrast in the 
Yarieties of the human species ; this was a dwarf, 
a young man, 24 years of age, born in the village 
of Jalapa in the province of Chiquimula, who was 
ouly 1 vara and 4 inches high (37 inches), and 
well proportioned. 

The great circus of Copdn, the cavern of Tibul- 
ca,and the stone hammock, having been described 
in the geographical part of this work, it will be 
unnecessary to make farther mention of them in 
this place. 



CHAP. XXV. 



Of the Alcaldia Mayor of Amatique, and the Port 
of Dulce» 

The jurisdiction of the alcaldia mayor extends 
35 leagues from east to west, and 30 from north 
to south : bounded southward by the province of 
Chiquimula, northward by the bay of Honduras, 
westward by Verapaz, and lands of the unre- 
claimed Indians, and eastward by the province of 
Comayagua. This district is fertile in the extreme 
and very well wooded; but it is broken, humid, 
and unhealthy. Its productions are sarsaparilla, 
Mechoacan, China root, many aromatics, barks 
and medicinal woods. In the mountains there 
are great numbers of lions, tigers, dantas, and ba- 
boons of very large size, so daring that they will 
attack a man ; an instance of which occurred to 
a hunter, who had chased and wounded a female 
with her young one ; but was prevented from 
taking her, by the males which surrounded him 
in such numbers, that had he not fortunately re- 



ceived assistance from some other hunters who 
came np, they wonlcl have torn him to pieces. 
Reptiles, and noxious insects of various species, 
are innumerable. 

Formerly there were 3 villages near the gulf of 
Dulce, viz. Amatique, situated near the gulf of 
Guanaxos, southward of the river Dulce; Jocolo, 
northward of the same river, where now stands 
the castle of St. Philip ; and St. Thomas, south- 
eastward of Amatique. There was also, rather 
more than 3 leagues westward of Las Bodegas, 
or the Storehouses, and on the southern bank of 
the river Polochic, a town called New Seville, 
inhabited by Spaniards. Some Spaniards from 
the province of Yucatan, having traded to the 
port of Dulce, conceived the design of establishing 
a town in the vicinity of the port, to facilitate the 
commerce between the provinces of Guatemala 
and Yucatan. They applied to the royal audi- 
encia of the confines, just then created, for per- 
mission to carry their plan into effect; this being 
granted, they chose a convenient situation, took 
possession with the usual ceremonies, and laid 
the foundation of a new town, about the year 
1544. 

There was good reason to expect from its local- 
ity, that this would rapidly become a flourishing 
town ; being close to the river, near to the Bodegas, 
and but a short distance from the port ; rendered 
it particularly suitable for all parties. To such 
persons who came from Spain, it was a desirable 
place of refreshment, after the fatigues of so long 
a voyage, particularly to those whose health had 
been injured by it: the merchants found conve- 
niences for warehousing their goods, and provid- 



312 

ing every thing necessary to proceed to the ca- 
pital ; those of the capital had agents in the 
merchants of New Seville, to receive their mer- 
chandise, and forward it internally or externally, 
without loss of time ; the inhabitants of the town 
possessed every advantage for carrying on an ex- 
tensive commerce, and abundant means of enrich- 
ing themselves honourably. In a very short time 
it became a place of considerable traflSc, with npH 
wards of 70 Spanish inhabitants, ordinary alcaldes 
and regidors, a military commandant, who was 
also civil lieutenant-governor in the province of 
the Gulf, which post was considered so honour- 
able, that the president of the kingdom nomi- 
nated Don Christoval Maldonado, one of his re- 
lations, to fill it. 

Contrary, however, to all these well-founded 
expectations, the prosperity of New Seville was 
of short duration; its growing success excited 
envy, and many insinuations were made to the 
order of Dominicans, that the inhabitants ill 
treated the Indians of Verapaz, forcing them to 
labours beyond their natural strength, harass- 
ing them by incessant insults, and depriving 
them of their wives and daughters. Fired by zeal 
in the defence of their new converts, these pious 
fathers, without endeavouring to ascertain the 
truth of the allegations, hastened to the royal 
audiencia of the confines, and demanded an order 
to disfranchise the town and disperse the inha- 
bitants. In support of this demand, they cited 
a royal edict of the 30th October, 1547, dis- 
patched by the king to the governor Montejo, 
commanding him to disfranchise New Salamanca: 
this royal detennination could not be considered 



315 

as extending to New Seville, for only New Sala- 
manca, a town in the province of Yucatan, was 
named in it, and was therefore directed to Fran- 
cisco de Montejo, the governor of Yucatan : 
whereas, had it been the king's intention to dis- 
mantle New Seville, he would indubitably have 
intrusted the execution of this rescript to the au- 
diencia of the confines, to which jurisdiction the 
town belonged. The president Cerrato, and the 
judges of the audiencia, felt no scruples on this 
account; but without requiring other proofs of 
the offences charged against the inhabitants, thaa 
the bare assertion of the monks, or even permitting 
the inhabitants to defend themselves against the 
charge, promulgated a decree, commanding the 
governor, alcaldes, and inhabitants of New Se- 
ville, most peremptorily, and in the most rigorous 
meaning of the order, to quit the town, and even 
the province of the gulf of Dulce, on pain of 
death and confiscation of property, to the exclu- 
sion of any replication or appeal whatever, from 
the provisions of the decree. This iniquitous 
sentence was notified to the cabildo of New Se- 
ville, and duly submitted to on the 30th of Oc- 
tober, 1548. 

The three villages before mentioned were inha- 
bited but for a short time, on account of repeated 
epidemics that carried off a great portion of the 
population : Jocolo was indeed repeopled by Pe- 
dro Varona di Loayza, but with no better suc- 
cess. 

About the year 1603, the pilot Francisco Na- 
varro found, near the River Motagua, some In- 
<lians of the Toquegua nation, who were so 
gentle and docile that they readily submitted 



ai4 

to the Spaniards. Caspar de Andrada, bishop of 
Comayagua, sent ministers to instruct them ; but 
Remesal (lib. 10, cap. 20), says, this duty had 
been performed in so slovenly a manner, and the 
Neophytes were found, by the ministers of his 
order, so little improved in their knowledge of 
the Christian faith, as scarcely to be able to re- 
peat the prayers in an intelligible manner: even 
the language which had been taught them could 
not be well understood, as it was a mixture of 
Latin and romance. This could only have been 
said by Remesal from an inclination to be satiri- 
cal ; for, as Fuentes observes, it w^ould appear from 
this, that these learned missionaries were unable 
to speak either Latin or Castilian ; for had they 
been acquainted with either of these idioms, they 
would have taught the Tequeguas in it. These 
Lidians were settled in the village of Amatiqoe, 
where although many of them died, some families 
of the race continued many years. 

The spiritual concerns of the province of the 
gulf of Dulce were committed to the order of 
La Merced, who had a convent in Amatique; 
but as the ministers saw themselves exposed to 
the incursions of pirates, after New Seville was 
dismantled, and deprived of the assistance of the 
inhabitants of that place, whose alms helped to 
support the convent, they made a formal resigna- 
tion of their mission to Christoval de Pedraza, 
bishop of Truxillo, in 1549 ; and this prelate sent 
a single curate to do the duty of the villages and 
tlie castle : the curacy is now' extinguished, and 
a chaplain appointed to the castle by the archbi- 
shop of Guatemala. The province of Amatique 
.■was civilly governed, at first, by the governor of 



315 

New Seville, afterward by the alcalde mayor of 
Amatiqiie. and at present by the castellan (war- 
den) of the gulf. 

This province is most worthy of attention on 
account of the gulf of Dulce, where for many 
years, ships arriving from Spain have discharged 
their cargoes. This, for the first 80 years, was 
done at Puerto Caballos; and at the same place 
also the flotilla of Honduras, as it was called, de- 
livered their freights ; but so great and so frequent 
were the losses and damages occasioned by pirates 
in the undefended harbour, that the ayuntamiento 
of Guatemala frequently petitioned the governors- 
general to appoint another port for the rendez- 
vous of the ships, which might be more easily put 
in a proper state of defence to protect them from 
the depredations of the corsairs. Many years 
passed before attention was paid to these re- 
presentations of the cabildo, during which time 
the incursions of the enemy continued : insults 
became so frequent, that at last the president, 
Alonzo Criado de Castillo sent the pilot, Fran- 
cisco Navarro, to examine the coast, and ascer- 
tain if there was a port that could afford more 
protection than those of La Caldera de Punta de 
Castilla, and Puerto Caballos, which had hitherto 
been frequented. On the 7th of March, 1604, 
Navarro found one in the gulf of Guanaxos, close 
to the village of Amatique, that appeared to him 
much superior to the others in point of security, 
and which he called St. Thomas de Castilla. The 
alcalde, Estevan de Alvarado, was sent to exa- 
mine and sound it : being in all respects a better 
harbour than the others, the ships from Spain 
were from that time ordered to make use of it. 



316 

In 1607, the fortifications and defence of port St. 
Thomas were talked of with great zeal, several 
councils and consultations were held, many grave 
deliberations followed, but no measures were 
taken. This same year captain Juan de Monas- 
terios arrived with two ships, which he wished to 
unload in the new port; but finding it unprotected, 
he went to Puerto Caballos. Monasteries had made 
a voyage to this port in 1603, and being ready to 
sail on his return to Spain, was discovered in the 
harbour by the pirates,Pie de Palo, and Diego, the 
Mulatto, with 8 ships of 400 tons, and 5 launches, 
having on board all together 1400 men. Monaste- 
ries had only 2 ships, which being intended only 
as merchantmen, the crews were not numerous : 
undismayed by the great inferiority of his force, 
he put his two ships in the best possible state of 
defence, and kept his men at their quarters ready 
to receive the enemy. The corsairs attacked, 
and in the first encounter subdued the largest 
ship : they then grappled with the other, com- 
manded by Monasteries; boarded him three 
times, and were as often repulsed. Enraged at 
this resistance, the attack was renewed with their 
whole force ; the brave Monasteries performed 
prodigies of valour ; but being wounded, having 
only 5 men left, and his ship so much injured as 
to be unmanageable, he was forced to submit. 
This disaster was one of the motives that induced 
the president to find out a safer harbour; but as 
the new pert was not fortified in 1607, when Mo- 
nasteries returned, he was exposed to another at- 
tack from the corsairs in Puerto Caballos. While 
his ships were taking in their freight, 12 Dutch 
vessels approached him : this unexpected visit 



317 

did not intimidate bim ; he put the ships in the 
best state of defence the circumstances would 
permit, and made a brave resistance, notwith- 
standing the great disparity of force. The action 
was maintained with obstinacy on both sides, as 
long as day-light lasted, was renewed the follow- 
ing, continued for nine successivedays, and would 
have lasted longer, but the Spaniards fortunately 
sunk one of the Dutchmen, and so roughly han- 
dled the others, that they were nearly all injured 
in their masts: this damage damped their ardour, 
and they sheered off. To avoid another visit, Mo- 
nasterios determined to fortify the port of St. 
Thomas himself: he levelled a platform upon a 
rock, and planted on it seven pieces of artillery 
which he took from the ships : by such a force it 
was moderately well defended, and became a much 
safer anchorage than Puerto Caballos. With this 
advantage, however, it was not long found to be 
a convenient place for discharging ships, as the 
country round about was so sterile as not to afford 
sufficient provender for the mules employed in 
transporting the merchandise. On this account 
it was abandoned, and the ships were afterward 
unloaded at Port Dulce, westward of St. Thomas. 
This port remained quite unprotected until 1646, 
when the president, Diego de Avendaiio, ordered 
it to be fortified; and although he died sooq 
afterward, the works w^ere finished by Antonio 
de Lara Mogrobejo. They did not long remain 
in a perfect state ; for in 1686, they were burned 
by the pirates, Yanques and Cocolen, and re- 
mained dismantled until the president, Jacinto de 
Barrios Leal, ordered them to be rebuilt in a re- 
gular form about 1694. 



318 



CHAP. XXVI. 

Of the Island of Roatan, and others, in the Bay 
of Honduras. 

There are many islands in the bay of Hon- 
duras, but they are now nearly all uninhabited. 
The first, discovered by Columbus, in 1502, was 
Guanaja, which he named Pine Island, from the 
great number of that species of tree he found upon 
it. This island is 6 leagues north of the point 
Castile, or, as it is now called, Cape Honduras: 
the natives were of a mild and pacific character ; 
and therefore easily taken by the officers and men 
of Pedrarias, who carried them away and sold 
them in Hispaniola. Five leagues westward of 
Guanaja, and 1 league from Roatan, lies Goa- 
moreta. Besides these, there are in the gulf 
the islands Mata, Guayama, Utila, and Saono ; 
and beyond the port of Guanajos lie Guay- 
dua, Helen, and St. Francisco: coasting towards 
Cape Catoche are the islands Ibob, Lamanay, 
Zaratan, and Pantoxa : all these are very plea- 
sant, producing some valuable commodities, and 
excellent timber. At the time of the conquest 
they were well peopled ; but the hostilities com- 
mitted against them, first by the Spaniards, and 
afterward by pirates who infested these seas, ei- 
ther destroyed or drove them away, and only 
Roatan, Guanaja, and Utila, remained inhabited. 

The most important of all these islands, and 
the only one now peopled, is Roatan ; this and the 
two last mentioned, remained quietly under the 
dominion of the Spaniards until the year 1642, 
when they were attacked by an English pirate. 



319 

No resistance being made by the Indians, Roatan 
and Guanaja^ were taken possession of. The oc- 
cupation of these spots was of great advantage to 
the English, consequently of proportionate in- 
jury to the Spaniards : for, from being so near to 
the ports of the main land, the enemy were en- 
abled to make attacks upon them whenever they 
pleased ; or they could, with equal facility, inter- 
cept the commerce between this kingdom and 
Spain : this occupancy was also extremely perni- 
cious to the inhabitants in a reb'gious sense, as the 
heretics could not fail of perverting them by their 
detestable maxims. This last circumstance, more 
than any thing else, induced Luis de Caiiizares, 
bishop of Comayagua, and Juan de Veraza, keeper 
of the fort of St. Philip de Lara, to stimulate the 
president to regain possession of them. 

The governors of Guatemala and the Havannah, 
and the president of the audiencia of St. Domingo, 
were all interested, and joined in an expedition 
to expel the heretics. The governor of the Ha- 
vannah sent 4 ships of war, well equipped, under 
command of the general Francisco de Villalva 
y Toledo, who shaped his course to Roatan, 
without touching at any of the anchorages, in the 
hopes of surprising the English : in this project 
he did not succeed ; for although he arrived with 
his squadron in the harbour of Roatan an hour 
before day-break, he was unable to effect a dis- 
embarkation unperceived by the sentinels, who 
gave an alarm, and the trenches were immediately 

• Guanaja is one of the largest islands in the bay, being 28 
leagues in circumference : it has a good harbour on the south 
side, the soil is fertile, producing cocoa, palm, coyol, besides 
many useful and valuable woods. 



520 

manned with a respectable force: the Spaniards 
attacked, and a brisk action was maintained 
until day-light without any advantage. The ge- 
neral then observing a part of the intrenchment 
that was not defended, kept his main body in its 
position, and detached an officer, with 30 men, 
to attack the weak part^ in order to turn the ene- 
my's flank: the attempt was unsuccessftd ; for 
the detachment, in advancing, got into a swamp 
that was impassable, Villalva still continued his 
efforts against other parts of the works, without 
any other advantage than killing a few of the be- 
sieged. Nothing decisive was effected, and at 
sun-set, having expended all his ammunition, he 
marched his troops to the beach, re-embarked, 
and sailed for St. Thomas de Castilla to ob- 
tain a fresh supply. From that port he sent 
to the captain-general an account of what had 
taken place at the island. Antonio de Lara Mo- 
grobejo, then governor, assembled a council of 
war, and in compliance with its resolutions, 
dispatched, on the 4th of March, 1650^ captain 
Elias de Bulasia, with 15 barrels of powder, and 
6 quintals of balls, for the supply of the squa- 
dron. Captain Martin de Alvarado y Guzman 
was ordered from Guatemala, with 50 soldiers ; 
and captain Juan Bautista Chavarria, with 50 
more from the province of Chiquimula: these, 
when united to the squadron, increased its force 
to 450 men. 

They immediately sailed for the island ; and as 
the general knew how well the first harbour he 
had entered was defended, he thought it expe- 
dieiit to try his fortune at another part of the 
island, where there was a smaller one. On land- 



321 

ing, he was received by a body of troops who made 
an obstinate resistance ; but having effected a breach 
in the intrenchment with 2 pieces of artillery, the 
Spaniards stormed it, and after a determined con- 
test, the English were defeated. Subsequent to 
this victory the assailants suffered a great deal 
before they could reach the town ; for having no 
guides, they missed their way, and wandered 
about 9 days, exposed to the violence of the 
sun by day, and unhealthy vapours by night : 
their feet were lacerated by the thorns of the co- 
yols, and they were tormented by innumerable 
swarms of mosquitoes, ticks, and other venomous 
insects and reptiles. On reaching the town, or 
rather the village, they found it abandoned by 
the English, who had carried all property and 
provisions on board their ships, and left the 
island entirely. Villalva collected the natives, 
and having burned the place, returned to St. Tho- 
mas, in the neighbourhood of which the Indians 
had lands given to them ; this expedition termi- 
nated in August, 1650. 

Roatan was deserted from 1650 until 1742, 
when the English took possession of it again, and 
fortified it with materials which they had carried 
off from the city of Truxillo. They maintained 
themselves in it until 1780, when they were dis- 
lodged by the governor of Guatemala. In 1796, 
they once more made themselves masters of it, 
and stationed 2000 negroes for its protection. As 
soon as this invasion was known in the capital, 
the governor ordered the intendantof Comayagua 
to send Don Jose Rossi y Rubia to the island, in 
order to ascertain what state these negroes were 
in, that, from his information, the necessary ar- 

Y 



322 

rangements might be made for its reconquest. On 
the 17th of May, 1797, Rossi, with 12 officers, em- 
barked atTruxillo on board a little vessel, armed 
with 4 small ^uns and 12 muskets, and reached 
the harbour of Roatan the following day. On the 
beach they saw about 200 men drawn up, armed 
with muskets and bayonets, apparently intending 
to resist a landing ; on perceiving this, Rossi 
alone went on shore, and advancing to the com- 
mander of the troops, proposed terms of capitula- 
tion, which were accepted. Those who accom- 
panied him then landed, the Spanish flag was 
hoisted, and the island taken possession of with 
the customary ceremonies. The village on the 
northern side was occupied by these republican 
negroes ; but the southern side was defended by 
Caribs; Rossi and his companions proceeded to 
the village of these Indians, and quickly getting 
possession of a battery which they had construct- 
ed, offered similar terms of capitulation, which 
were accepted with as much satisfaction, as they 
had been received by the others. Rossi issued 
some orders, which the Caribs promised to obey, 
and on the 19th sailed for Truxillo, where he 
anchored on the 21st. 



CHAP. XXVII. 

Of the Discovery of the Province of Honduras, 
and the Foundation of the principal Cities and 
Towns in it. 

It was intended not to consult the " General 
History of the Indies," in the progress of this 
treatise; but the native authors not affording 
sufficient information relative to the provinces of 



323 

Honduras and Nicaragua, it has been necessary 
to make use of Herrera's History, in order to give 
a satisfactory account of these regions. 

The province of Honduras was the part of 
this kingdom, and indeed of all the North Ame- 
rican continent where the Spaniards first landed. 
Herrera (dec. 1, lib. 5, cap. 6,) says, that Co- 
lumbus arrived on the coast of Honduras in the 
year 1502, and landing at Point Casinas on the 
17th day of August, Bartholomew Columbus 
took possession of the country in the name of the 
king of Castile. Columbus did not advance into 
the interior, but continuing his progress along the 
coast reached the province of Veraguas; and the 
province of Honduras was not explored until 20 
years after its first discovery. The inducements 
that the Spanish commanders had for penetrating 
into this region were the following. As it is a na- 
tural propensity in the human mind to endeavour 
to rival, and even to surpass the enterprises of 
men who have rendered themselves memorable 
by their prowess; as the immortal Columbus had 
succeeded in rendering his name famous to the 
remotest posterity, by his discovery of America, an 
achievement as important as any one that had, up 
to that time, astonished the world ; and as Vasco 
Nunez Balboa had made the discovery of the 
Great Pacific, which next4o that of the continent 
was of the greatest moment, it then became an 
object of ambition to find out the channel by 
which the South Sea and the Atlantic were con- 
nected. Gil Gonzalez Davila sailed from the 
gulf of St. Michael, in the bay of Panama, on 
the 21st of January, 1522, to search for this pas- 
sage, and examined the coast as far as Chorotega, 

Y 2 



324 

which he called the bay of Fonseca, in honour of 
the archbishop of Burgos, Juan Rodriguez de 
Fonseca, president of the council of the Indies ; 
but not meeting the object of his research in this 
direction, he returned to Panama. He soon after- 
ward sailed for Hispaniola, and from that island 
steered for the coast of Honduras or Guaimura, 
with the design of seeking for the channel, which 
he conjectured must exist between the two oceans. 
He arrived on the coast, and not being able, on 
account of bad weather, to enter Puerto Caballos, 
was under the necessity of throwing some horses 
overboard (from which circumstance the port 
was named), and taking shelter in the gulf of 
Dulce: he built a little village near Cape Three 
Points, on the eastern side of the gulf, to which 
he gave the name of St. Gil de Buena Vista; this 
was the first village the Spaniards occupied in the 
province of Honduras. Shortly after the arrival 
of Davila on the coast, came Christoval de Olid 
(who was sent by Ferdinand Cortes), and landed 
in a bay 55 leagues eastward of Dulce, on the 
3d of May, 1523, which being the day of the holy 
cross, he called the bay Triumph of the Cross; 
he also laid the foundation of a town, and gave it 
the same appellation. He took possession of the 
country in right of the king of Spain, and nomi- 
nated alcaldes and regidors of the new town. 
Herrera fixesthedate of thefoundation of Triumph 
of the Cross, St. Gil de Buena Vista, and the cities 
of Granada and Leon, in the year 1524; but it 
should rather be 1523: for as Cortes returned 
to Mexico from Hibueras or Honduras in 1526, 
after having been upwards of two years absent, 
as mentioned by Bernal Diaz del Castillo (chap. 



325 

193), Olid's arrival at Triumph of the Cross could 
not very well have been in 1524; as 2 years 
appear to be a very short space of time to em- 
brace all that took place from his arrival on the 
coast till the return of Cortes.* 

Cortes having been informed of Olid's revolt, 
sent Francisco de las Casas against him, with 2 
ships well armed. This officer arrived at Triunfo 
de la Cruz^ and Olid immediately put his own 
men on board 2 vessels to prevent Las Casas 
from landing : a battle took place between the 
two parties, and lasted nearly the whole day : 
Las Casas sunk one of Olid's vessels; but just 
as fortune seemed to declare in his favour, a vio- 
lent gale arose in which his ships foundered, and 
40 of his men were drowned ; the rest saved 
themselves by swimming ashore. Olid being vic- 
torious, got together, clothed, and well treated 
the remainder of Las Casas's people; and the re- 
turn the ingrates made for his kindness was to 
murder him the first opportunity that offered. 
After this treacherous action, Las Casas obtained 
qniet possession of the country, and founded the 
city of Truxillo, so called from his native place in 
Estremadura, and which was for a long time the 
principal place in the province. Cortes receiving 
no information from Las Casas, determined to go 
in person to Honduras by land ; making all neces- 



* This coast was called indifferently Guaimura, Las Hibueras, 
and Honduras; it received the first name from a village so 
called ; the second was given by the first Spaniards who visited 
it, from finding here abundance of pompions, which in Castilian 
were called hibueras; the last was given by the Spaniards, who 
when they wished to land in Guaimura could not, for a long dis- 
tance, find a convenient place, on account of the very great 
depth (hondura) of the sea on the coast. 



3^6 

sary arrangements for the security of Mexico dur- 
ing his absence, he commenced his journey at the 
head of a strong detachment. The hardships en- 
dured in traversing the country cannot easily be 
described ; they reached the province, and not 
far from the gulf of Dulce met with some Spa- 
niards, who were collecting sapotes ; from these 
persons he received an account of all that had 
taken place in the bay of Triunfo de la Cruz and 
the valley of Naco ; they also informed him that 
the town where Davila's people were residing was 
at no great distance. Cortes directed his march 
to that place, which was called Nito; on arriving 
there he found it situated near the sea, and that 
the people had removed thither from St. Gil de 
Buena Vista, which was now abandoned. He 
was received with the most enthusiastic joy, for 
the inhabitants were much distressed by the 
failure of their provisions : he fortunately was 
enabled to afford them assistance, as a ship ar- 
rived very opportunely from Cuba with a cargo 
of hogs, cassava, and other eatables, which he im- 
mediately purchased and distributed among those 
of Nito. He soon perceived the situation of this 
town was neither convenient nor healthy, and 
that the scarcity of provision was likely to con- 
tinue, as there were no Indian villages or culti- 
vated lands near it; he therefore embarked all 
the people of Nito, and conveyed them to Puerto 
Caballos, where he laid the foundation of a town 
called Natividad ; settled 40 of Davila's peo- 
ple in it, and appointed Diego de Godoi go- 
vernor. (Bernal Diaz, cap. 181.) This place 
also was abandoned, for it was found to be even 
more unhealthy than the one they had come 



327 

from, as one half their number died within a very 
short time, and Godoi with the survivors returned 
by order of Cortes to Naco. This was then the best 
town in the province of Honduras, well peopled, 
and abundantly supplied with provisions; the 
water, in the opinion of Diaz, was better than any 
he had met with in America. Gonzalo de Sando- 
val, with some soldiers, was sent there to keep the 
country in subjection, and to lay the foundation 
of another town ; but on arriving at Naco he 
found it had been deserted. On the 11th of April, 
Pedro de Alvarado arrived with a commission as 
governor and captain-general of the kingdom of 
Guatemala; he came from Mexico with all pos- 
sible expedition, on receiving intelligence that 
Martin Estete, acting under the orders of Pe- 
drarias, had invaded the provinces of Chapar- 
rastique and Cuzcatlan, now called St. Miguel 
and St. Salvador, and on this account brought 
with him a reinforcement of 80 soldiers; but 
on reaching the capital he found Estete had re- 
treated, and that 90 of his men were then in the 
city ; these 90^ and the 80 who had accom- 
panied him from Mexico, were sent under the 
command of his brother Diego de Alvarado, 
to build a town in the province of Tecultran, to 
which he gave the name of St. George de Olan- 
chito. 

In the year 1536, the inhabitants of Naco, and 
indeed of the whole province, were in a state of 
violent commotion ; there was a dissension among 
the king's officers, and party feelings had pro- 
duced a great degree of excitement. The inhabi- 
tants were much exasperated by the severe go- 
vernment of Cereceda, a man of a cruel and ty- 



328 

rannic disposition ; the Indians had revolted and 
fled to the mountains, in consequence of which 
there was the greatest scarcity of every kind of 
provisions. In this state of famine, they repre- 
sented their distress to Pedro de Alvarado, and 
most earnestly supplicated assistance. The go- 
vernor set out immediately for Naco, where he 
was received with great joy, as it was conjectured 
his presence would produce a speedy remedy for 
all the evils they were suffering. In fact his arri- 
val quickly changed the situation of affairs ; the 
governor Andres de Creda finding himself super- 
seded in authority, and fearing the well-merited 
punishment of his excesses, cunningly tendered 
his resignation, in the hopes of evading it ; volun- 
tarily giving up what he would have been deprived 
of by force. Alvarado accepted it, he appointed 
justices to inquire into abuses, and with the au- 
thority and ability of an experienced commander, 
adopted measures for calming the discontents ; 
he then proceeded to Puerto Caballos, where he 
founded the town of St. Juan, supplying it with a 
stock of cattle and other necessaries at his own 
expense; about 11 leagues from this place, he 
founded the city of St. Pedro Zula ; and as the for- 
mer was inhabited by factors, traders, and negroes, 
the latter was occupied by the oflScers of govern- 
ment; the situation was considered moresalubrious 
than that of St. Juan : but when the rendezvous of 
the shipping was removed to the gulf of Dulce, St. 
Juan was abandoned, and the population of St. 
Pedro greatly diminished. After the settlements 
of St. Juan and St. Pedro, Alvarado sent Juan 
Chaves with the greater part of the troops to 
search for a convenient situation for another town, 



329 

about raid way between the provinces of Hondu- 
ras and Guatemala, by which the commerce and 
communication between the two places might be 
facilitated. Chaves spent a long time in looking- 
for a spot that would present the desired advan- 
tages, but without success ; at last on arriving at 
a level tract, the soldiers exclaimed, " Thank God 
(Gracias a Dios), we have found a proper place!" 
and from this circumstance the town built there 
was called Gracias a Dios.* The prosperity of 
the place increased so rapidly, in consequence of 
some gold mines having been discovered near it, 
that in 1544, only 8 years after its foundation, 
it was one of the most flourishing towns in the 
kingdom ; and the royal audiencia of the confines 
of Guatemala and Nicaragua, that by the king's 

* A similar circumstance gave rise to the name of Cape 
Gracias a Dios; Columbus having arrived at Point Casinas in 
August, 1502, kept a westerly course, contending, with great 
difliculty, against the wind and a strong current, until he wea- 
thered a headland stretching far into the sea, and from which 
the land trends away to the southward, when he kept his in- 
tended course with ease ; the sailors thanked God for having 
doubled the Cape, and it then received its appellation of Cape 
Gracias a Dios. The similitude of name between the two 
places, occasioned Herrera to confound the city Gracias a Dios, 
with the village that was built near Cape Gracias a Dios. In 
his '* Descripcion de las Indias," fol. 27, he says that the city 
Gracias a Dios was founded in the year 1530, by the captain 
Gabriel Roxas, but it being abandoned, was repeopled in 1536, 
by Gonzalo de Alvarado ; this does not accord with what the 
same author says in his Decada 6, fol. 13, just quoted ; for 
if Alvarado gave orders in 1536, to choose a proper place for 
building the city, it manifestly could not have had its origin 
in 1530 ; and when he asserts that Roxas founded Gracias a 
Dios in 1530, he must be understood to speak of the village near 
Cape Gracias a Dios, which in his Decada 4, fol. 41, he actually 
refers to that year, as being founded by Roxas and soon after- 
ward abandoned ; and when he speaks, in his 6th Decade be- 
fore mentioned, of Juan Chaves founding Gracias a Dies in 
1536, he evidently alludes to the city. 



330 

order should have been fixed at Comayagua, was 
established in Gracias a Dios, as being a more 
important place than the other. Of the mines 
discovered within the jurisdiction of the city, the 
richest' was that of St. Andres de Nueva Zaragosa ; 
this is in a mountain of the valley of Sensenti, to 
the west of the city, and on the east of the valley 
of Copan, 60 leagues north-east from the city of 
Guatemala ; the fable of the golden mountain 
seems to have been verified here. Fuentes asserts 
that with no other instrument than a wooden 
stake, poor people went to the mountain, and by 
merely scratching up the sand, found grains of 
the precious metal. He also says that in a mine 
belonging to Bartolome Marin de Sanabria^ more 
than a pound of gold a day was collected by 
the labour of himself and 1 slave only. The 
strongest proof that can be adduced of the riches 
of this mountain, was the appointment of an 
alcalde mayor for the purpose of superintending 
the working of the mines, and receiving the king's 
fifths ; this officer was invested with plenary juris- 
diction, both in civil and criminal matters, within 
the boundaries of the mines, and had the power 
of compelling a fourth part of the Indians, within 
a circuit of 12 leagues, to labour in them. These, 
sources of wealth that were so famous for more 
than 100 years are now entirely exhausted, and 
the alcaldia extinguished. 

In the year 1536, the king appointed Don Fran- 
cisco Montejo governor of Honduras ; this officer 
was then in Mexico, and sent Alonzo de Caceres 
to take possession of his government as his lieu- 
tenant : on arriving at Gracias a Dios, he assumed 
the command, dismissed the alcaldes and regidors. 



331 

appointed others, and sent an account of his pro- 
ceedings to Montejo, who immediately set out 
from Mexico ; on arriving at the seat of his new 
government, he made a distribution of lands, and 
exerted himself v^ith great industry as well as 
prudence, to promote intercourse and good under- 
standing with the neighbouring Indian villages. 
He sent Caceres on an expedition against the 
province of Cerquin to subdue its cacique^ the 
brave Lempira, who had fortified himself in a 
strong post on a height, where he had a garrison 
of 30,000 soldiers, and defied his assailants for 
more than 6 months, when he was accidentally 
killed. By the death of Lempira, Montejo was 
relieved from the war against Cerquin, and the 
country being entirely pacified, he ordered Ca- 
ceres to find out an eligible situation for a town, 
about midway between the two great oceans. In 
obedience to these directions, he explored the 
country, and pitched upon a spot in the valley of 
Comayagua, where he marked out a town that 
was called Santa Maria de Comayagua. It was 
intended by means of this place to obtain an easy 
communication with the Atlantic and the Pacific ; 
its situation being about halfway between Puerto 
Cabalios and the bay of Fonseca, would render 
it a convenient intermediate depot; the climate 
being healthy, and the soil fertile, much of the 
sickness and waste of human life would be pre- 
vented ; many of the fatigues and privations avoid- 
ed that were usually experienced in the journey 
from Nombre de Dios to Panama. When these 
circumstances were communicated to the king of 
Spain, he commanded an engineer, Bautista An- 
tonelli, to survey the proposed route, and examine 



332 

carefully, whether the facilities of establishing this 
line of communication really were so great as had 
been represented to him ; the engineer having 
finished his operations, reported that the diffi- 
culties would greatly overbalance the advantages, 
and the design was laid aside. 

The foundation of Santa Maria de Comayagua 
was not suspended in consequence of this adverse 
report, and the town increased rapidly ; it soon 
became the capital of the provinc^e of Honduras, 
the residence of the governors and the episcopal 
seat. The books of the cabildo having been 
destroyed by fire, much of its history remains in 
obscurity; enough, however, is known to prove 
that it was founded in 1542, as appears from a 
royal edict of July 5, 1557, which states " that it 
is now 15 years since it was fir? t inhabited;" by a 
royal order, dated September 13th, 1543, the 
king commands that the new audiencia of the con- 
fines of Guatemala and Nicaragua shall reside in 
Comayagua, which was then to be called New 
Valladolid. On the 20th of December, 1557, the 
title and franchises of a city were granted to it. 
In the following year, 1558, on the 17th of Sep- 
tember, Gonzalo de Carvajar was appointed by 
the royal audiencia of Guatemala, inspector of 
weights and measures (fiel executor), and on the 
20th of September, it was decreed by the same 
authority, that the 3 regidors of the city, appointed 
by the royal chancery, were not to be perpetual, 
but that those who served the office 1 year, 
were to elect 3 successors for the following year ; 
this number was afterward augmented. In the 
year 1561, the cathedral church of Honduras, 
until then held in Truxillo, was transferred to 



333 

New Valladolid ; this was done at the interces- 
sion of the bishop Geronimo de Corella, who ob- 
tained a licence, both from the king and the pope, 
for the removal of his see. In 1574, Bernardino 
Perez, provincial of the order of St. Francis, 
visited the provinces of Zonsonate, St. Salvador, 
and Honduras, for the purpose of establishing 
convents of his order, in obedience to the royal 
pleasure promulgated on the 11th of August, 
1573, and on his arrival in the city of Comaya- 
gua founded the convent of St. Antonio. 



CHAP, xxvin. 



Of the Discovery and Settlement of the Province 
of Nicaragua. 

In the year 1516, Hernan Ponce and Barto- 
lom6 Hurtado, officers under the command of 
Pedrarias Davila, governor of Darien, discovered 
the gulf of Chira (at present called Nicoya, 
though originally named by the Spaniards St. 
Lucar), but they did not land. Six years after- 
ward, on the 21st of January, 1522, Gil Gon- 
zalez Davila, with the pilot, Andres Nino, sailed 
from the gulf of St. Miguel, and keeping close 
along shore to the westward, about 100 leagues, 
they found the bottoms of their ships were foul, 
and so much injured by worms, as to make it ne- 
cessary to careen and repair them ; to do this they 
were laid on shore. During the time occupied 
by these repairs, Davila, with 100 men, advanced 
inland to explore the country, passing with diffi- 
culty through swamps, where they were some- 
times forced to construct rafts to be enabled to 



334 

continue their progress. In this expedition they 
had interviews with several caciques, whom they 
found were not averse to become Christians : the 
most powerful of these chiefs was Nicoya, who, 
with all his vassals, consented to receive the rite 
of baptism, after which ceremony he presented 
Davila with a quantity of gold of 13 carats, to the 
value of 14,000 dollars, and 6 idols made of the 
same precious metal, telling him ^' to take the 
latter away, as he now had no farther occasion for 
them." In return, he received a few presents of 
Spanish articles, when Davila took his leave and 
proceeded into the territories of the cacique, Nica- 
ragua, whose dominions were more extensive than 
those of Nicoya ; the Spaniards sent to assure 
him of their peaceable intentions, and he willingly 
invited them to his capital, when he presented 
them with a large quantity of linen and orna- 
mental feathers, besides 25,000 dollars' worth of 
gold ; in return for this compliment, Davila gave 
him a silk cloak, a scarlet cap, and some other 
ornaments. This favourable opportunity of ex- 
patiating on the benefits arising from embracing 
Christianity was not lost, and an ecclesiastic who 
attended the expedition, explained to him some of 
its precepts. Nicaragua asked many questions 
relative to its doctrines, which shewed him to 
possess considerable talent and intelligence ; in 
fact, he was the only Indian who had ever exhi- 
bited any thing like curiosity or acuteness on the 
subject. He was convinced by the explanations 
given, or at least, so well pleased with them, that 
he became a convert, and 9000 of his subjects 
followed the example. Davila after this success 
examined a great part of the province of Nica- 



355 

ragua, and the lake of Granada, after which he 
returned to Panama ; and at the latter end of the 
year 1522, went to HisjDaniola. 

While Gonzalez Davila was in Hispaniola, 
Pedrarias Davila exerted his utmost efforts to 
form settlements in Nicaragua, alleging that the 
country belonged to him, because some of his 
officers had discovered it in 1516, before Gonzalez 
arrived at Nicoya. With this intention, Fran- 
cisco Fernandez de Cordova set out from Panama 
in 1523, at the head of some troops that Pedrarias 
placed under his command. Having arrived in 
the gulf of Nicoya, he landed and founded a 
town called Bruselas, which, however, only ex- 
isted 4 years, for, in 1527, Diego Lopez Sal- 
cedo ordered it to be dismantled. He advanced 
about 30 leagues farther on, into the province 
called Nequecheri, and laid the foundation of 
the city of Granada on the margin of the lake ; 
he adorned it with a sumptuous church, and 
erected a fortress for its defence; he carried with 
him the pieces ready framed for constructing a 
brigantine, in which he surveyed the lake, and 
found that it communicated by means of a river 
with the sea to the northward ; the river however 
was not navigable for the vessel. He afterward 
established the city of Leon, in the centre of the 
province of Imabite, and fortified it in order to 
defend himself against Gil Gonzalez, who was 
marching towards him by Olancho, and also as a 
protection against the Indians, who, to the num- 
ber of 15,000, inhabited the neighbouring country. 
A few years afterward, Pedrarias founded the 
city of New Segovia. The general and extraor- 
dinary cortes wishing to testify their approbation 



336 

of the fidelity shewn by the ayuntamiento of this 
city, during the political agitations that took 
place in the province of Nicaragua, granted to it 
the title of Muy noble y leal (very noble and 
loyal) by a decree of December 8th, 18 J 2. There 
was also in this province another city called New 
Jaen, situated between the lake of Granada and 
the sea, and northward of the river St. Juan ; 
Gabriel de Roxas first began to settle it, by order 
of Diego Lopez Salcedo, in conformity to in- 
structions sent by the king for establishing a 
settlement near the embouchure of the lake, for 
the purpose of ascertaining whether the river 
was navigable to the sea, and afforded a commu- 
nication between the two oceans. The governor 
of the province was soon afterward superseded. 
New Jaen neglected, and there is not now a ves- 
tige remaining to mark its situation. 

Besides the cities just enumerated, there are 
the town and port of Realejo, otherwise called 
Jaguei, or Cardon. This town was not established 
either by the governors of Nicaragua, or Terra 
Firma, but by some of the inhabitants of Gua- 
temala, who set out with Pedro de Alvarado on 
his expedition to Peru in 1534, and stopping here 
for the purpose of building some ships for the 
armament, they ascertained the safety and other 
conveniences of the harbour, and determined to 
establish themselves in it ; from the small num- 
ber of settlers, the place received the diminutive 
appellation of Realejo: there is perhaps not a 
better harbour in the Spanish monarchy, and 
there are very few in the known world superior 
to it ; in the first place it is capable of containing 
1000 vessels commodiously ; affording clean and 



337 

good anchorage in every part, and ships may lay 
close to the shore without the smallest risk or 
danger ; there is not the most trifling impediment 
to the passage in or out, and new vessels may be 
launched at all seasons, without the least obstruc- 
tion. The conveniences for ship-building cannot 
be surpassed, as timber, cordage, sail-cloth, pitch, 
and tar may be procured in great abundance ; the 
supply of masts is inexhaustible. This branch 
of commerce might be most advantageously car- 
ried on, in fact a great number of vessels of all 
sizes were formerly constructed here, and were 
held in such high estimation, that Fuentes men- 
tions that a galleon built in Realejo was sold at 
Callao for 100,000 dollars. The harbour could 
be placed in a respectable state of defence with 
the greatest ease, as a few pieces of cannon 
mounted in battery on the islet of Cardon would, 
from its eminence, completely command the en- 
trance, and effectually protect the port. There 
w^as formerly a different channel into the harbour, 
from the one now used ; originally the passage- 
was between the point of Isle Cardon, and the 
peninsula of Castanon, and ships proceeded up 
the river to the landing place at a village called 
Nuestra Senoradel Viejo ; but the fall of immense 
quantities of rock, both from the Isle Cardon and 
the point of Castaiion, during a violent earth- 
quake, has made this passage impracticable ; the 
present channel lies between the north point of 
Cardon and the isle of Icacos, whence vessels 
have a clear course, and may run up with their 
bowsprits almost into the town. 

The general cortes assembled at Cadiz, granted 
by a decree of January 10, 1812, permission for 



338 

the city of Leon to erect a university, and endowed 
it with such privileges as belong to the other 
seats of science in America ; by another decree 
emanating from the same authority, in the same 
year, the province of Nicaragua was privileged to 
hold a provincial assembly composed of deputies 
from the districts of Leon, Costarica, Granada, 
Segovia, Nicaragua, Matagalpa, and Nicoya, 
which assembly was installed for the first time in 
the month of October, 1813. 



CHAP. XXIX. 



The Revolt of Rodrigo de Contreras. 

Pedrarias Davila, the conqueror and first 
governor of Nicaragua, died in July, 1531 ; in 
1534, Rodrigo de Contreras, who had married 
Maria Peiialosa, daughter of Davila, succeeded 
to the government of the province. While he held 
this command, the new laws, which prohibited all 
governors and officers of the crown from holding 
Indians as their property, arrived from Spain ; 
to evade this order, Contreras made overall those 
that belonged to him to his wife and sons. At the 
same period the audiencia of the confines was also 
instituted, and that tribunal sent the licentiate 
Herrera, one of its judges, to examine into some 
alleged abuses in the administration of Contreras. 
Many charges were exhibited against him, and as 
it was ascertained that the transfer, which had 
been made to his wife and sons, was not executed, 
as the deeds imported, a year before, but subse- 
quent to the promulgation of the new law, the 
Indians were taken from their pretended owners 



339 

and confiscated to the use of the crown ; which 
decree of the judge was confirmed by the royal 
chancery. Contreras embarked immediately for 
Spain, to exculpate himself from the charges, and 
solicit restitution of the Indians that had been 
taken from him ; in this he was unsuccessful, and 
the council of the Indies ratified the sentence of 
the audiencia. Hernando Contreras, determined 
to resent what he conceived to be an injury done 
to his father, and being encouraged by some sol- 
diers who had come to Nicaragua from Peru, 
determined to try his fortune by a revolt ; with 
this intention he provided a quantity of arms, and 
enlisted a number of partisans. The rebellion 
commenced with the murder of the bishop An- 
tonio de Valdivieso, who was killed by Contreras, 
as it is said, on account of a quarrel that the pre- 
late had had with Contreras the father. The next 
step was to carry off the episcopal treasury, and 
the government chest, with which the rebels left 
the city, exclaiming, '* Liberty, long live prince 
Contreras." Hernando increased the number of 
his followers, collected more arms and horses, 
and sent emissaries to Granada, whence he ob- 
tained another accession of strength. With the 
people whom he had assembled from Leon and 
Granada, and the soldiers from Peru, who had 
been disgraced and banished from that kingdom^ 
he proceeded to Realejo, where he seized 2 
ships then in the harbour. With so prosperous 
a beginning, Contreras and his followers were 
greatly elated: they deliberated among themselves 
upon a plan of operations, and determined to sail 
for Panama, to get possession of that place and 
Nombre de Dios ; thence to make their way to 

z 2 



340 

Peru, and excite the people to rebellion; in a word, 
Hernando was to be declared king of that country, 
his brother Pedro was to be made lord of exten- 
sive provinces, and all their soldiers to be loaded 
with riches. In this delirium they commenced 
their voyage, and fortune seemed to favour their 
designs. On the passage they captured some 
ships, and made themselves masters of others that 
were lying in the harbour of Panama; the charge 
of the vessels was given to Pedro; Hernando 
landed with the troops and took possession of the 
town, making the bishop, the treasurer, the alguacil 
mayor, and several other persons of distinction 
prisoners ; after plundering the inhabitants of 
whatever could be carried off, they marched to 
Nombre de Dios. The inhabitants of Panama 
took advantage of their absence, to fortify and 
supply themselves as well as circumstances would 
permit, and when Juan Bermejo, one of Con- 
treras' officers, returned the same night to keep 
possession of the town they would not permit 
him to enter; the troops he had with him being 
unable to force a passage, he retired and encamp- 
ed upon a little eminence at no great distance ; in 
this position he was attacked by the king's troops, 
whom he repulsed ; a second attempt was made 
with better success, the rebels were defeated, 82 
being killed, many taken prisoners, and the rest 
dispersed ; Bermejo was among the killed. When 
Hernando heard of this misfortune, he attempted 
to escape by the way of Nata, and was afterward 
found dead in a swamp ; Pedro being apprised 
of his brother's defeat, put to sea with his ships 
and returned to Point Iguera, where, perceiving 
he was likely to be attacked by 4 ships from 



341 

Panama, he landed with all his followers ; Ni- 
cholas Zamorano with some soldiers disembarked 
from the Panama ships in pursuit of Contreras, 
and captured 30 of his men, the rest, 8 or 10 in 
number, followed their commander, and were 
never heard of after. The victory at Panama was 
obtained on the 23d of April, 1549, the anniver- 
sary of which, being St. George's day, has ever 
since been celebrated with great solemnity in the 
cathedral. — (Remesal, lib. 8, cap. 19, et seq.) 



CHAP. XXX. 

Of the Province of Costa Rica. 

The name originally given to this province leads 
to a supposition that it was distinguished in former 
times by great wealth, either from the mines of 
gold, silver, and copper, that it contained, or 
from its commerce, which was in a very flou- 
rishing state, at the period Porto Bello was the 
rendezvous of the galleons. Whatever might 
once have been its importance, it is very certain 
that at the present time its condition is very de- 
plorable ; the population is reduced almost to 
nothing ; commerce is annihilated ; and the mines 
are no longer worked : in fact, a province that in 
many respects merited particular attention, is 
now so much neglected, that none of the writers 
of this kingdom, or foreigners, take any notice of 
it. In order to give some few traits of the history 
of this district, it has been necessary to examine 
a report made in 1744, by Don Jose de Mier y 
Ceballos, to the engineer Don Luis Diez Navarro, 
who was sent into the province as inspector-ge- 



342 

neral of the garrisons, &c. Ceballos was a native 
of the city of Cartago, and says, in the preface to 
his report, that having on various occasions held 
the office of lieutenant-governor, he had many op- 
portunities of examining the archives of the ca- 
bildo in that city, in vi^hich he found the royal 
edicts^ orders, and other records upon which 
he drew up the information communicated by 
him. 

He states, that in the archives of Cartago, he 
found documents dated so early as 1522, from 
which it may be inferred that the cities of Costa 
Rica are the most ancient of the kingdom, and 
also that this was the first part of Guatemala sub- 
dued by the Spaniards; for, if so early as 1522, 
the year in which Gil Gonzalez Davila made his 
first entrance into Nicoya and Nicaragua, the 
capital of Costa Rica was of sufficient conse- 
quence to require the residence of a government 
secretary, it is clear that it must have been one 
of the earliest founded by the Spaniards. Juan 
Solano and Alvaro de Acuiia are the officers to 
whom the original conquest is attributed ; when 
George de Alvarado entered the province he sub-, 
dued the villages of Turrialba and Suerre, on 
this account the possession of the former place 
was granted to him for 3 lives, viz, of himself, 
his son, and nephew. It appears by an edict pre- 
served among the records, that the first governor 
and captain*general of Costa Rica, was Diego de 
Astieda Chirinos, to whom the king granted the 
office for life, and for the life of one of his sons ; 
and prescribed the boundariesof his jurisdiction, 
which were to extend on the sea-coast of the At- 
lantic, from the mouth of the River St. Juan to 



343 

the island Escudo de Veraguas ; and on the Pa- 
cific Ocean from the River Nicoya to the River 
Boruca. 

St, Jago de Cartago is the capital of the pro- 
vince ; it received from Philip the Second, on the 
18th of August, 1565, a grant of armorial bear- 
ings, viz, on the superior part of a shield, a lion, 
Or, on a field, azure ; on the inferior part, a castle, 
Or, on a field, gules, a bordure, argent, w^ith 6 
eagles, and the motto " Fide et pace:" in this city 
the Spaniards and Ladinos inhabit separate quar- 
ters; in that occupied by the latter there is a 
sanctuary dedicated to Nuestra Seiiora de los 
Angeles, which is much frequented by the people 
of the surrounding country, on account of a mi- 
raculous image said to have been discovered by a 
female Indian in a stone. The first situation of 
Cartago v^as near the village now called Garabito, 
close to the harbour of La Caldera, and the city 
of Esparza : it was next transferred to a spot not 
far from the River Taras, and afterward removed 
to its present site. 

The city St. Espiritu de Esparza, was origin- 
ally situated on an eminence, indistinctly seen 
from the harbour of La Caldera, but some years 
afterward transferred to the position where it 
now stands, as more convenient for participating 
in the advantages of the neighbouring harbour, 
as well as affording better land for the purposes 
of agriculture. It rose into prosperity in a short 
time, from the commerce carried on with Panama, 
and the kingdom of Peru ; its population was 
considerable, and the ayuntamiento respectable, 
the alcalde mayor usually filling the office of de- 
puty governor. 



344 

The whale province was well peopled, the ara- 
ble lands in a good state of cultivation, the pas- 
tures covered wdth cattle, horses and mules, m 
which a considerable trade was carried on with 
Carthagena and Puerto Bello, from the harbour 
of Matina ; and with Panama and other ports 
of the Pacific, from La Caldera. Its prosperity 
and riches exciting the cupidity of adventurers, 
in the year 1666, a body of 1200 men disem- 
barked in the port of Matina or Moin, and im- 
mediately marched towards Cartago. As soon 
as intelligence of this invasion, by a combined 
force of French and English pirates, reached the 
city, the governor marched with all the force he 
could muster towards the village of Turrialba, 
10 leagues from Cartago, by which the enemy 
must of necessity pass. Having nearly reached 
the village, he took post on an eminence that 
commanded it ; the enemy had taken up their 
quarters in the village, and at day-break before 
they were ready to march, the Spaniards beat to 
arms on the hill, with as much noise as they could 
possibly make, and opened a fire upon them ; by 
this unexpected attack, the invaders were thrown 
into confusion and made a precipitate retreat 
towards their ships ; the Spaniards pursued them 
a little distance, and having made a few prisoners 
returned to Cartago ; the captives were for some 
reason or another put to the torture, most proba- 
bly for the purpose of building a miracle upon 
their confessions, as they were made to declare 
that the cause of their taking to flight so hastily, 
was, seeing immediately after their quarters had 
been beaten up by the Spaniards, a numerous 
army on the height commanded by a female ; in 



345 

confirmation of this declaration several of them 
became Catholics, married and settled in the pro- 
vince. This host of w^arriors, vi^ith the heroine at 
their head, could be no other than the holy Virgin 
with an army of saints, v^ho had hastened to 
the protection of the faithful, and consequently 
was entitled to more than ordinary veneration ; 
therefore the governor, cabildo, and inhabitants 
unanimously chose her to be their patron, and 
promised to go annually in procession to the 
sanctuary of Ujarraz, 2 leagues from the city, 
to worship her image ; this august ceremony con- 
tinues to be performed in the month of May, even 
at the beginning of the 19th century. 

A few years afterward the pirates in the Paci- 
fic, upon two occasions, attacked Esparza, plun- 
dered, and set it on fire: left by these disasters 
in so ruinous a state, it was abandoned by the 
inhabitants, some of whom went to Nicaragua, 
and others retired to their possessions in the 
country. On the coast of the Atlantic many at- 
tempts were made by Morgan, Lorenzillo, and 
other bucaniers, with various success ; the Mosco 
Indians made frequent incursions by the harbour 
of Matina, and usually carried off cocoa, slaves, 
servants, or in fact whatever they could obtain. 
The incessant acts of hostility to which the inha- 
bitants were exposed, induced the king of Spain 
to station a company of 100 soldiers, with pro- 
per officers, in the province, to protect it from 
such insults. 



346 

CHAP. XXXI. 

Of the Conquest of Tologalpa. 

The historian Francisco Vasquez details at 
great length the conversion of the idolaters of 
Tolagalpa and Taguzgalpa, in the 1st treatise of 
his 5th book. In this and the following chapter 
it is intended to give a compressed history of these 
events, omitting many particulars, which, although 
curious, would extend the account much beyond 
the limits of a compendium. On referring to the 
descriptions of these provinces in the former parts 
of this work, it will be observed that Taguzgalpa 
extends along the shore of the Atlantic from west 
to east ; from the River Aguan to Cape Gracias a 
Dios; Tolagal pastretches from north to south, 
from that cape to the River St. Juan ; the River 
Tinto dividing one province from the other. Al- 
though the natives of these regions are known by 
the general names of Xicaques, Moscos, and Sam- 
bos, they are composed of many nations ; some 
are called Lencas, others Payas, Albatuinas, 
Tahuas, Jaras, Taos, Gaulas, Fantasmas, Iziles, 
Motucas^ and many others ; all these nations 
speak different languages, have distinct govern- 
ments, manners, and customs ; and they are also 
distinguished by variety of colour, some are white, 
others black, and others red or copper colour. 

Information relative to the tribes inhabiting the 
northern shores had reached Spain, and some 
mention had been made of them in decrees, dated 
30th of October, 1547, 31st of August, 1560, and 
2d of July, 1594 ; in the latter, Philip the Second 
commanded that a minute detail of all circum- 



347 

stances regarding the native inhabitants, and of 
the best means that could be adopted for recon- 
ciling them to the Spanish government, should 
be transmitted to him. About the same period 
Francisco Salcedo and Antonio de Andrada, 
two ecclesiastics endued with religious fervour, 
endeavoured to penetrate to the interior of these 
provinces, and try how far it was practicable to 
introduce Christianity among the natives. Estevan 
Verdelete, another zealous promoter of the same 
benevolent plan, made every possible effort to 
commence the work of regeneration. In the year 
1593, he joined a mission under Pedro de Arbo- 
leda; and as long as he remained in Guatemala, 
was incessant in his endeavours to procure an 
opportunity of carrying his design into execution; 
this was at length obtained, for in the year 1603 
he was elected guardian of Comayagua, an em- 
ployment which he accepted with the greatest 
joy; for as this city is only a short distance from 
these provinces, the means of getting into them 
would be greatly increased and facilitated by his 
residence there. He communicated his design to 
the provincial, who granted a licence to proceed 
with his object, and to take such measures as might 
appear to him the most conducive to the conver- 
sion of the infidels. 

On the arrival of Verdelete at Comayagua, he 
diligently set about inquiring by what route he 
could most readily effect an ingress into the ter- 
ritories of the Xicaques. Having obtained some 
information, and reconnoitred the nature of the 
country, he determined upon making his first at- 
tempt by the river of New Segovia, under the 
guidance of some Indians, to whom he explained 



348 

his design ; they assisted him, in all appearance^ 
to the utmost of their abilities, but the traitors, 
after having conducted him and his companion 
Juan de Monteagudo into the mountains, deserted 
and left them in a frightful wilderness, without 
food, without a guide, and deprived of all human 
assistance. Thus abandoned, their fortitude did 
not forsake them ; they calculated their position, 
as nearly as they could, by the course of the 
stars, and after incalculable fatigues and difficul- 
ties, made their way through wilds and over pre- 
cipices, that to minds of less strength would have 
opposed impassable barriers, until they succeed- 
ed in escaping from the labyrinth they were in- 
volved in, and returned in safety to Comayagua ; 
they immediately afterward set out for Guatemala 
to assist at the provincial synod, held in 1606. 
Verdelete requested permission from this assem- 
bly to proceed to Spain, for the purpose of ex- 
plaining to the king what means ought to be taken 
to ensure the conversion of the Pagan population 
of Honduras. This demand was granted, and he 
was also furnished with powers to vote in the 
name of the provincial synod, at the general 
chapter of the Franciscan order that had been 
convoked in Toledo. He immediately departed 
for Spain, and on his arrival there made a report 
to the royal council of the great population and 
barbarous state of the inhabitants ; of the defi- 
ciency of competent ministers to take in hand their 
instruction, and explain the advantages that would 
result from their embracing Christianity ; he also 
proposed the most efficacious methods of obtain- 
ing this object. From his report, the supreme 
council was fully convinced of the importance of 



349 

the undertaking, and a decree was issued on the 
i7th of December, 1607, commanding that Este- 
van Verdelete should be supplied, out of the royal 
revenues, with whatever might be necessary for 
his subsistence, and all the aid he might require ; 
that he should be allowed to select 8 persons to 
assist him in the reduction of the Xicaques ; that 
he should be authorized to establish convents of 
the new converts, if such a measure should ap- 
pear to him expedient, in any of the villages he 
might form, provided the number of such convents 
did not exceed 6, and which were to be subject 
to the provincial of Guatemala. Finally, the 
president, the bishops of Comayagua and Nicara- 
gua, and the prelates of his order, were strictly 
enjoined not to impede his operations ; and, on 
the contrary, were strongly recommended to as- 
sist, with all their powers, in the prosecution of 
this arduous enterprise. 

On the 13th of October, 1608, Verdelete re- 
turned to Guatemala, at the head of a mission 
consisting of 28 persons, including the 8 specified 
in the decree for this particular service; he was 
also the bearer of the order of the supreme 
council. He wished to proceed immediately to 
Tologalpa; but the arrangements he found it ne- 
cessary to make, detained him another year in 
Guatemala, before they were fully completed. In 
October, 1609, he quitted the capital with his par- 
ticular friend and companion, Juan de Monteagu- 
do ; and in passing through Comayagua they 
added to their society Juan de Vaide, curate of 
Olancho, Andres Marcuello, vicar of the con- 
vent of that city, captain Daza, and 3 other Spa- 
niards of Olancho, who being acquainted with 



350 

the country, and devoted to the interests of their 
religion, readily joined the party. These indefa- 
tigable men continued their journey to New Se- 
govia, and entered the mountain district by the 
route of the River Guayape. For several days 
their progress v^^as through sterile wilds; they 
passed many rivers, some in canoes, others on 
rafts, and at last came in sight of some hovels of 
the natives. The Indians advanced to meet them, 
bringing large quantities of flowers, which they 
strewed upon the ground, or threw upon the 
persons of the party : they were attended by a 
sort of music, to which they danced, and shewed 
many other demonstrations of excessive joy : 
there were, however, some among them painted 
black, with plumes of feathers on their heads and 
lances in their hands, apparently more inclined 
for war than a peaceable interview; this made 
the visitants suspect treachery. 

The zealous missionaries commenced the work 
of regeneration without loss of time ; a large 
cross was erected, around which they assembled 
as many Indians as they could collect, and ex- 
plaining to them, as well as circumstances would 
permit, some of the sacred mysteries, made a brief 
recapitulation of the Holy Scriptures from the 
creation of the world to the coming of the Re- 
deemer. Verdelete declared he would pass the 
remainder of his life among them, if necessary, to 
instruct them in the way of salvation. After this 
discourse it was proposed to cover in a place 
with boughs of trees, to be used as a church, and 
the Indians with great expedition formed a large 
hut for that purpose, besides several smaller ones 
as habitations for the fathers. Every effort was 



351 

made to obtain the good will of the natives, b y 
kindness and caresses, the adults were instructed 
and the children baptized : the success was so' 
great, that although the Indians were discovered 
only at the latter end of January, yet by the 24th 
of February, which was Ash- Wednesday, there 
were many whose conversion was so far com- 
pleted that they received baptism. The season 
of Lent was passed in giving instruction to such 
of the stragglers as came from the recesses of 
the mountains : processions were made, at which 
they assisted : Passion week was celebrated, and 
some, who were thought sufficiently capable of 
understanding the nature of the rites, admitted 
as communicants ; others attended the pub- 
lic worship with every appearance of sincere 
devotion. The exertions of the ministers were 
compensated by 130 converts, besides the bap- 
tism of many children ; it being now ascer- 
tained that the tribes in this district were very 
numerous, more assistants were deemed neces- 
sary ; Verdelete therefore wrote to the provin- 
cial of Guatemala to give an account of the pro- 
gress that had been made, and to represent the 
want they were in of a reinforcement of mission- 
aries. 

While these unwearied labourers were exulting 
in the success of their work, difficulties unex- 
pectedly presented themselves ; the Lencas and 
Mexicans who lived together, for some cause or 
another disagreed, and great dissensions took 
place between them ; to these disputes Verdelete 
was able to apply a remedy speedily, by separat- 
ing the two tribes, and placing them in distinct 
quarters under the superintendence of different 



352 

ministers. The next disaster was of a more se- 
rious nature, for the unconverted conceived a vio- 
lent hatred against the converted Indians, as well 
as against their instructors, and impelled by a 
blind passion for revenge, formed a scheme of 
setting fire to the village ; but before putting this 
into execution, they contrived, by using promises 
and threats, to induce the Lencas and Teguacas 
to quit their dwellings secretly. The mission- 
aries observing that the numbers of these 2 na- 
tions decreased every day, began to look into 
the cause of this unexpected secession, and very 
cautiously made inquiries among the children, 
from one of which they ascertained that the wild 
Indians intended to burn them, and that they 
were to be thrown into the fire that very night. 
It was evening when this alarming intelligence 
was obtained ; Verdelete immediately communi- 
cated it to his brethren, exhorting them to be firm, 
and still persevere in their undertaking ; he was 
himself enthusiastically devoted to this service, 
and impressed upon the minds of his companions 
that it would be more glorious for them all to 
suffer aiartyrdom, than relinquish the work they 
had commenced. In the midst of these pious in- 
citements, about midnight they were roused by 
horrid yells, and, rushing out of the hut, perceived 
the whole village in flames ; great numbers of the 
Indians, who had blackened themselves to be the 
more terrific, were running about, some armed 
with lances, and others carrying torches, with 
which they were setting fire to the hut that had 
been erected for the church. Verdelete seized a 
crucifix and ran towards them ; his resolute de- 
meanour repressed their fury, and he severely up 



353 

braided them for the baseness and treachery of 
their conduct; animated by this example^ all the 
other missionaries, and the rest of the party, sallied 
forth against the Indians, now in some degree 
awed, and threatened them with the vengeance of 
God, if they persisted in the atrocious attempt ; 
assuring them that they did not fear to die, but 
that their death would draw down innumerable 
evils upon those who might occasion it: so much 
courage, and the dreadful punishments denounced 
against them, alarmed the idolaters in such a de- 
gree that they fled hastily to conceal themselves in 
the mountains. At day-break, the Spaniards found 
they were alone, and on visiting the different 
places where the Indians had dwelt, could not dis- 
cover a living creature in them. The missionaries 
now determined upon returning to Guatemala, to 
give an account of what had happened. 

On arriving in the city they were received with 
every testimony of joy for their escape ; they made 
a report to the president of all the occurrences 
that had taken place, and as the attempt at re- 
ducing these nations was not to be abandoned, 
the governor assigned them an escort of 25 sol- 
diers, which he placed under the command of 
captain Alonzo de Daza. The provincial, on his 
part, wishing to give all the interest in his power, 
to the renewed attempt at converting the Xica^ 
ques, issued letters-patent to his province, re- 
questing such of the religieux as were desirous of 
contributing their assistance, to make their incli- 
nations known to their respective prelates, in 
order that a proper number of competent persons 
might be selected. All arrangements being com* 
pleted, the expedition was in readiness to leave 

2 A 



354 

Guatemala by the end of the year 1610, Verde- 
lete preached a sermon, in which he took leave of 
the inhabitants, whom, in a prophetic spirit, he told 
they were listening to him for the last time. The 
party reached the confines of Tologalpa in April, 
1611, having been delayed sometime in Comaya- 
guaby the ill health of Verdelete; they found some 
of the Lencas living among the Christians, and by 
their means succeeded in drawing others from 
their retreat in the mountains ; each day brought 
in more, both of those who had been before bap- 
tized, as well as Pagans ; the latter, as fast as they 
acquired the requisite instruction, were also ad- 
mitted to baptism ; and the whole settled in small 
villages, on convenient spots. 

The ministers wished to go personally in search 
of those converts who had escaped at the time of 
the conflagration ; Daza, however, persuaded 
them to desist from this attempt, under an idea, 
that although the Indians themselves invited their 
presence, and had even offered canoes to pass the 
river, yet their intentions were treacherous, as 
many of them were armed ; he proposed to pre- 
cede them with his soldiers, and ascertain the 
posture of affairs, as he had strong reasons to 
suspect some lurking danger. Daza soon found 
his suspicions were not ill founded ; for although 
at first he was received with kindness, the natives 
had no sooner collected in sufficient force, than 
they attacked him ; he repelled them with diffi- 
culty, and effected his retreat, but not without 
some of his soldiers being killed. The hatred to 
the Christians was not appeased by this retreat ; 
in fact, it was seriously increased by a soldier hav- 
ing killed an Indian who had struck him, and 



as this retaliation greatly exasperated them, 
they contrived fresh schemes to satisfy their re- 
venge. They sent to tell the fathers they were 
very sorry for the past disputes, and wished to be 
made Christians, if the Spaniards would come 
into the mountains to them, but hoped they would 
leave their fire-arms behind, as they desired to 
avoid war, wished for peace, and to become good 
friends. Confiding in these pretences, notwith- 
standing the evidence of past events, the minis- 
ters were for proceeding instantly to meet the In- 
dians ; but Daza again restrained their ardour, 
offering to go with some of the soldiers, with- 
out arms, to tell them, on the part of the mis- 
sionaries, that they would be pardoned for what 
had passed, and had no reason to be alarmed ; 
and that the fathers would come among them 
with pleasure to give instructions and prepare 
them to become good Christians. 

Daza set forward on his mission, recommend- 
ing to the fathers not to move from their present 
situation without receiving a letter from him; 
at the expiration of 4 or 5 days, 7 canoes were 
seen descending the river, and those who came in 
them, told the ministers that Daza desired they 
would come to him : on being asked for the 
letter, the Indians made several excuses, which 
the credulous missionaries readily believed, al- 
though the soldiers advised them strongly not to 
confide in those who had before been so treacher- 
ous ; but these infatuated men, full of apostolic 
zeal, and sighing for the crown of martyrdom, re- 
plied, that no time could be more propitious for 
obtaining what they so much desired, and with 
some of the soldiers entered the canoes; they 

2 A 2 



S56 

proceeded a considerable distance without ob- 
serving any thing to create distrust: at last, on 
turning a point of land, they saw the declivity of 
a hill covered with a multitude of Indians, painted 
black, with helmets of feathers, and armed with 
lances : they also saw elevated on the point of a 
long lance the head of Daza, and upon others, 
the hands of some of the soldiers. Verdelete, 
who landed from the first canoe, began to address 
them with reproaches for their treacherous con- 
duct: he rebuked them for their idolatry, and 
threatened them with the anger of God for the 
murders they had so atrociously perpetrated : 
these upbraidings infuriated them to the utmost; 
they gave a signal by sounding a sort of pipe, and 
immediately fell upon the defenceless priest, in- 
flicting innumerable wounds, which he, like an- 
other St. Stephen, received upon his knees, pray- 
ing for his murderers ; they then transfixed his 
body with a lance, and cut off' his head. Juan 
de Monteagudo was killed in the canoe, and 
nearly all the soldiers shared the same fate. This 
melancholy event occurred, according to the 
most probable computation, on the 16th of Ja- 
nuary, 1612. 

The barbarians celebrated their triumph by a 
feast, in which they devoured the arms, legs, and 
thighs of those whom they had slain ; and made 
use of their skulls as drinking cups ; of the vest- 
ments and ornaments they made dresses that 
were used in their dances ; the chalices, and other 
utensils of the altar, were broken to pieces, and 
made into pendants for the ears and noses. So 
great was the wildness of their joy at this horrid 
banquet, that many died of excess, others were 



357 

dashed to pieces by falling over precipices, and 
several were drowned ; at least such was the in- 
formation given by the Indians to a missionary 
who in after times visited the country. 

For many years the Indians of Tologalpa saw 
nothing more of the Christians ; not from the want 
of zealous men w^ho wished to continue their ex- 
ertions, but because the prelates did not think 
proper to grant permission. Antonio de An- 
drada, indeed, embarked at the port of Truxillo, 
with the intention of visiting this inhospitable 
region, but was driven by stress of weather 
almost to the coast of Tobasco, an immense dis- 
tance from it : other persons belonging to the con- 
vent of Truxillo also embarked there, with the 
same intention, but they could not accomplish a 
landing either on the shores of Tologalpa, or Ta- 
guzgalpa. 

The time however arrived when these attempts 
were to be renewed. In 1674, some Indians of 
the Pantasma and Paraka nations came to Gua- 
temala, to request Fernando de Espino, who was 
then provincial of the Franciscans, to go and in- 
struct their countrymen, and settle them in vil- 
lages ; Espino conferred with the governor on the 
subject, and as it was ascertained that these were 
distinct nations from those in which Ovalle and 
his companions were employed, a determination 
was mcjde to zsnd another missionary into that 
region. Many persons offered themselves to un- 
dertake the service, but the choice fell upon Pe- 
dro de Lagares, a young man in all respects qua- 
lified for the hazardous enterprise. He set out 
on his mission, and arriving at New Segovia, 
established a seminary, in which the religieux of 



358 

the province might be prepared for undertaking 
missions into the mountainous district. He- ap- 
plied himself sedulously to his task, made fre- 
quent excursions into the mountains, and was 
successful in bringing* each time several of the na- 
tives, whom he settled at 2 small villages in the 
valley of Culcali, situated about 5 leagues from 
the hilly country ; these numbers went on in- 
creasing by new converts that Lagares made in 
each journey, and also by others, who volunta- 
rily came to solicit instruction ; so that by the 
month of October, 1678, there were, in the vil- 
lages of St. Jose, Paraka, and St. Francisco Na- 
iaaica, more than 200 Indians who came to con- 
fession, besides children, as appeared from a cer- 
tificate signed by the two captains, Jose Vasquez 
de Coronado, and Manuel Diaz de Velasco. 
Pedro Lagares continued his labours for 5 years, 
and died at Segovia, July the 24th, 1679, at the 
age of 35. By his death the work of conversion 
was for a time suspended, as the person who had 
at first been his coadjutor, was obliged to return 
to Guatemala on account of ill health. When 
the death of Lagares was announced by the al- 
calde of Segovia to the provincial of the Francis- 
cans, letters-patent were dispersed throughout 
the province, inviting the ecclesiastics who were 
willing to engage in the service, to make known 
their wishes, in order that a successor might be 
elected. Many offers were made, and a person 
was chosen as chief of the mission, who, on the 
22d of September, 1679, set out for the place of 
his destination ; and in the following year 2 
others were sent as his colleagues. These 3 
exerted themselves so actively, that in 2 years 



339 

.more than 300 Indians were baptized. For se- 
veral years rapid progress was made in the con- 
version of the natives of this province, fresh as- 
sistants beins: occasionally sent from Guatemala. 
It is, however, now (181 1), more than half a cen- 
tury since the Franciscans have abandoned the 
province of Tolagalpa to its idolatry. What oc- 
casioned the discontinuation of this work, at a 
time when it was proceeding under favourable 
circumstances, appears not to be accurately 
known. 



CHAP. XXXII. 



Of the Reduction of the Pagans of the Province 
of Taguzgalpa, 

Christoval Martinez de la Puerta, an 
enterprising young man, by birth an Andalusian, 
arrived on the coast of Honduras, with the cap- 
tain Juan de Monasteries, about the year 1600: 
he landed at Truxillo at u time when an officer 
was raising men to make incursions into the 
territories of the natives, and he readily joined 
this band. On the expedition he had oppor- 
tunities of observing that the country was po- 
pulous in the extreme, and of conversing with 
the natives respecting their religion ; he found 
them generally very well disposed to exchange 
idolatry for Christianity. The young ChristO;Val 
was seized with a vehement desire of effecting 
their conversion: anxious to commence his la- 
bours, and deliberating in his own mind on the 
best means of obtaining his wishes, it occurred 
to him that he must first be ordained a priest. 



360 

in order to be employed in his favourite scheme. 
With this intention, he went to the city of Guate- 
mala, for the purpose of going through a course 
of studies, as a preliminary step towards the ful- 
filment of his desire; being, however, without 
the means of subsistence, he offered himself as 
a servant to the college. In this situation, a youth 
of good family, it may readily be conjectured, 
would be exposed to many mortifications; within 
the college he endured the jeers, the scorn, and 
ill-treatment of the students ; out of it he was 
forced to submit to the indignity of going to the 
markets to purchase vegetables, and other neces- 
sary articles for kitchen use ; but hoping ulti- 
mately to work the conversion of whole nations 
of infidels, rendered all these hardships tolerable. 
He conducted himself in the most exemplary 
manner, and discharged every duty confided to 
him with remarkable punctuality and care. In 
this station, however, the spirit of Christoval 
was restless, and he felt that he could be at ease 
only in Taguz<galpa, instructing and catechizing 
the Xicaques ; these inward desires became at 
last too powerful for longer concealment; he 
made them known to his provincial, and earnestly 
solicited permission to put them into execution. 
This prelate made such examinations as pru- 
dence dictated to him, and satisfying himself of 
the sincerity, as well as the qualifications of Mar- 
tinez, for the undertaking, the favour, so anxiously 
sought, was granted. He still encountered diffi- 
culties and delays ; he embarked twice for the 
coast of Taguzgalpa, but was as often driven 
back by contrary winds, and on both occasions 
was under the necessity of returning to Gua- 



361 

t^mala. Unwilling to desist from the enterprise, 
Martinez repeated his solicitations to the prelate 
for permission to make a third trial to penetrate 
into the country by the way of Cape Gracias a 
Dios. There was a great diversity of opinions 
respecting this voyage^ but the provincial yielded 
to the arguments, which, by his direction, Marti- 
nez addressed to him in writing (and which the 
curious reader may find in detail in the Chronicle 
of Vasquez), gave him his paternal benediction, 
and permission to depart once more for Taguz- 
galpa. 

In April, 1619, Martinez, accompanied by Juan 
Vaena, a lay brother of excellent character for his 
virtues and qualifications, set out for Truxio, but 
on arriving at Truxillo^ could not meet with a ship 
to convey them to their destination. They then 
passed over to the Havannah, and although the 
governor of that place ordered a frigate to take 
them to Cape Gracias a Dios, they were prevented 
by bad weather from reaching it, and once more 
constrained to go back to Truxillo. They were 
advised to remain there until the month of March 
following, when the season would be favourable 
for sailing to leeward ; and more particularly as 
the governor was getting a frigate ready to sail in 
that month for Jamaica, which, as Taguzgalpa lay 
in the course, could easily land them on the coast. 
They embraced this opportunity and sailed on the 
16th of February, 1622; the voyage was propi- 
tious, and the 2 missionaries, with 4 Indians, 
whom they had taken from the island of Roatan, 
as interpreters, landed at the Cape : they took an 
affectionate leave of the officers of the frigate, and 
committed themselves to an unknown country 



362 

siirrouiided by barbarians, with no other protec- 
tion than that of Providence; an act of heroism, 
that leaves far behind the boasted exploit of Cor- 
tes, in ordering the ships in which he had arrived 
at Vera Cruz to be sunk, at a time when he was 
surrounded by savage Indians, without any other 
resource for quitting the country, should it be 
necessary ; but Cortes was accompanied by many 
brave soldiers to support him, many able oflScers 
to assist him with their advice and military expe- 
rience, and above all, he had fire-arms which 
alone were terrible to his opponents ; whereas, 
here were 2 poor friars, with no other arms than 
the gospel and patience, exposing themselves 
among nations of cannibals ; an instance of self- 
devotion that must excite the greatest surprise 
and admiration. 

The missionaries found themselves on a desert 
shore, unmarked by any traces of the human race 
having inhabited it ; occasionally, however, they 
soon saw at a distance an Indian or two, who, on 
perceiving the strangers, immediately fled in con- 
sternation. In this solitude they passed 2 days: 
on the morning of the third they observed a nu- 
merous body of the natives both male and fe- 
male approaching; the men were naked, with the 
exception of a piece of cloth before them, painted 
red, with plumes of feathers on their heads, and 
lances in their ha«ds ; the women were also 
painted red, had small aprons before them, and 
garlands of flowers on their heads : the last person 
of this company was a venerable old man with 
long white hair. On coming up to the mission- 
aries he made a profound obeisance, said in a lan- 
guage they could understand, that they were wel- 



363 

come, and asked, why they had so long delayed 
coming, to the great risk of his dying before their 
arrival? He added, that he had long expected 
them, with the greatest anxiety to render his ser- 
vices ; that he was not blamable for not having 
come before now to pay his respects, because he 
had understood they were to arrive by land, and 
had placed sentinels on the tops of the highest 
mountains to give him notice of their approach. 
Great indeed was the astonishment of Martinez 
and his companion at this unexpected address, 
and asking the old man who had given him in- 
formation of their intended visit, he replied (mira- 
bile dictu), ^* that being one day at work in his 
plantation, there appeared to him a white child, 
more beautiful than any thing he had ever before 
seen or could imagine ; it looked at him with 
great tenderness, and said, * Know that you will 
not die before you become a Christian ; there will 
come here some white men, with robes of the co- 
lour of this ground, reaching to their feet; when 
they arrive, receive them kindly, and do not per- 
mit any one to anger them, for they are ministers 
of God, who has granted thee this signal mark of 
his mercy, because thou hast done well, and hast 
supported those who wanted assistance !' " It is 
worthy of notice that this old man, eveti in his 
idolatry, had employed himself in acts of kind- 
ness ; he cultivated maize to distribute among 
those who were in distress ; he composed strifes, 
and settled all disputes among his neighbours; 
besides performing many other kind offices where 
they were wanted. Martinez was greatly rejoiced 
at hearing this, he comforted the old man, and 
promised to perform for him all the duties of a 



364 

good pastor. The Indians immediately set about 
constructing a hut for the strangers, near a river 
called Xarua : on the following day they erected 
a very large one for a church, and crosses w^ere 
raised in different places by the side of the paths, 
&c. The missionaries began to instruct their new 
friends; they baptized the old man and all his 
family; many of the Indians requested to have 
the same indulgence granted to them, from the 
great respect they bore towards the old man, and 
also because they understood that these were the 
fathers who had so long before been announced to 
them by the god of the mountain. 

This was the cheering prospect of affairs in 
Taguzgalpa, 3 months after the first landing of 
Martinez, when a boat that had been dispatched 
by Diego de Canavete, curate of Truxillo, and 
other inhabitants of that city, anchored on the 
coast ; it brought, as had been promised, a supply 
of wine and biscuit, with some consecrated bread 
for the service of the altar. The crew of the boat 
landed, and soon met some Indians who con- 
ducted them to the residence of the missionaries. 
After mutual congratulations, the fathers gave an 
account of the great success that had already at- 
tended their efforts ; and their visitors saw, with 
great astonishment^ how much had been done for 
Christianity in so short a time. During their stay 
the old Indian died, and all the Spaniards assisted 
at the Christian rites of his funeral. When the 
boat was preparing to return, Martinez resolved 
to send Juan Vaena to Guatemala, to give the 
provincial a narrative of what had occurred, and to 
request another priest might be sent to assist him. 
In September, 1622, Vaena reached the capital. 



365 

and laid before the provincial a detailed account 
of the expedition. The prelate was greatly rejoiced 
at the communication; he published an account of 
the rapid progress that had been made in the re- 
duction ofXicaque, and invited other ecclesias- 
tics, who were moved by a similar spirit of enter- 
prise, to offer their assistance. As usual, many 
tenders were sent, but that of Benito Lopez was 
preferred, doubtless on account of his superior 
qualifications, as information was received in 1630, 
that he had conducted himself in the most exem- 
plary manner^ not only in matters of religion, but 
in every respect that could render a man estimable 
in society: he was a native of Andalusia, edu- 
cated in the Franciscan convent of Guatemala, 
where he assumed the religious habit in 16! 7, 
taking the name of Benito de St. Francisco. He 
received his new ministry with great satisfaction, 
and soon after set out with Juan Vaena for Taguz- 
galpa, where he arrived in January, 1623. His 
surprise was excessive at observing what had been 
performed by Martinez in less than a year, as 
more than 700 adults, besides a great number 
of children, had been admitted to baptism; 7 vil- 
lages had been formed, in which the converts 
were settled according to their respective na- 
tions. 

The kind treatment and attentions shewn by the 
missionaries to the Indians, were soon spoken of 
among the neighbouring tribes, in consequence of 
which every day brought whole families, petition- 
ing to be participators in them, with every demon- 
stration of sincere conversion ; but as they could 
not easily abandon their original mode of living in 
wilds and forests, they were unwilling to settle in 



366 

villages, and share in the enjoyments of social 
life ; for this reason it often occurred, that they 
capriciously returned into the recesses of the 
mountains, when such desertions were the least 
expected. This unsettled disposition of their new 
flock gave the pastors great uneasiness, which in- 
creased to such a degree, that they thought it ne- 
cessary to quit for a while the nations they were 
now with, and go into the country of the Guabas. 
The Guabas were mulattoes, the progeny of some 
Spaniards, who having suffered shipwreck on the 
coast, had connected themselves with the Indian 
women, and from this intercourse the present race 
had sprung. The missionaries entertained an 
idea that if these could be domesticated, they 
might be made good mediators between them and 
the other Indians, as partaking of the blood of 
both species; and being in part Spaniards, it was 
supposed they would be more constant in the ob- 
servance of Christianity, if they could be brought 
to profess it; and this determined them to under- 
take their conversion. About this time a frigate 
under the orders of the governor of Truxillo, an- 
chored at Cape Gracias a Dios : the priests avail- 
ing themselves of that opportunity, requested the 
captain would convey them to Anavacas, the 
place where the Guabas were supposed to dwell. 
Having landed there, they advanced into the 
country and discovered the objects of their re- 
search : the Indians listened to their instructions, 
as did many of the other nations, for they had 
received some accounts of the love and great 
kindness shewn by the missionaries to the chris- 
tianized Indians, not in their spiritual concerns 
only, but by attending them in sickness, and cur- 



367 

ing their maladies ; they therefore came in troops 
to request the same good offices, so that during 
the few months spent in the country by the 3 
fathers, they made converts of, and administered 
the sacrament of baptism to, more than 5000 
individuals; thus, including those who had re- 
ceived it the foregoing year from Martinez, the 
whole number made in the province of Taguz- 
galpa exceeded 6000. 

In the midst of this plentiful harvest the 3 
indefatigable labourers were cut off; they fell a 
sacrifice to the animosity of the Albatuinas, a 
neighbouring nation. Some of this treacherous 
and savage tribe visited them with a pretended 
desire of being converted, and begged that they 
would accompany them to their dwellings, for 
the purpose of giving instructions ; the missiona- 
ries not suspecting any deceit prepared to gratify 
their wishes. The savages, however, in the eager- 
ness to accomplish their object, did not delay the 
execution of their scheme until they had got their 
victims into their toils, but came in force to the 
Christian village, and surrounding the house in 
which the fathers dwelt, seized upon and bound 
them, the new converts being too weak to at- 
tempt releasing or defending them : they were then 
dragged through the different places where they 
had preached, and severely beaten with wooden 
swords and knives. The sufferers attempted to 
reprove them for the cruelties they were inflicting, 
and threatened them with divine vengeance for 
their crimes, but this serving only to increase 
their fury, they seized Martinez, and impaled 
him on a lance, cut off one of his hands, and 
afterward broke his legs with their clubs, in the 



368 

excruciating torments of which he expired. The 
2 others were killed by wounds of lances and 
knives ; their legs were also broken, and their 
heads cut off. As soon as Juan de Miranda, 
governor of Truxillo, was informed of the cruel- 
ties the Albatuinas had inflicted upon the mis- 
sionaries, he ordered 2 vessels to be equipped, on 
board of which he embarked with some soldiers 
and artillery, and immediately sailed for the pur- 
pose of punishing the savages for the atrocities 
they had committed, and recovering the remains 
of the fathers. He landed at Cape Gracias a 
Dios, and although he was unable to chastise the 
murderers as he wished, because they had re- 
treated into the fastnesses of the mountains, he 
discovered, by the assistance of the converted 
Indians, the bodies of the victims, which he re- 
moved, and carried to Truxillo, where they were 
buried with great pomp on the 16th of January, 
1624. A contest arose between the cabildo of 
Truxillo and the syndic of the Franciscan convent, 
relative to the place of sepulture; the former in- 
sisting that they should be interred in the great 
church, and the latter maintaining that their re- 
mains ought to be deposited in the Franciscans' 
church : this dispute was terminated by the inter- 
ference of the governor, who decided that the 
body of Martinez should be buried in the great 
church, and those of his companions in that of 
the Franciscan. They reposed in these places 
until the year 1643, when the Dutch taking the 
city, the guardian of the convent collected the 
precious relics, and removed them to Guatemala, 
where preparations were made for receiving them 
with great solemnity ; but the provincial wishing 



369 

to avoid any violent demonstration of popular 
feeling, determined they should be admitted with- 
out any procession. They were deposited in the 
church of St. Francis, the royal audiencia, ca- 
bildos, and different religious orders attending 
the ceremony : the coffin was borne by the most 
distinguished persons in the city, and the funeral 
service performed with the greatest solemnity. 

After the death of these ministers, all farther 
attempts to convert these Indians were suspended 
for some years; for although several missionaries 
endeavoured to penetrate into the interior both of 
Taguzgalpa and Tologalpa, their efforts were un- 
successful. In 1661, some of the Paya Indians 
repeatedly plundered the small settlements con- 
tiguous to their own territory, and the Xicaques 
committed similar depredations in the valleys of 
Xamastran and Olancho. Captain Bartolome de 
Escoto, one of the proprietors, who had suffered 
most severely from these incursions, endeavoured, 
with the assistance of his friends and neighbours, 
to put a stop to them ; they advanced into the 
enemy's country, and succeeded in bringing away 
several Indians from their mountain retreats, 
whom they settled on a spot that was judged 
most convenient. As they were in this situation 
without a priest to instruct them, Escoto, ac- 
companied by 3 Lenca Indians, went to Gua- 
temala in search of a minister: the president, 
on being informed of his wish, recommended the 
accomplishment of it to the provincial of St. Fran- 
cis, observing, that as the conversion of the In- 
dians had originated with his order, it would be 
highly honourable to it to furnish labourers to 
reap the copious harvest which presented itself, 

2 B 



370 

particularly as there were among his brethren 
many persons so well qualified for that great and 
glorious work. There was at this time in the 
convent of Almolonga, Fernando de Espino, an 
aged and learned ecclesiastic, who, being a na- 
tive of New Segovia, a town bordering on the 
lands of the Xicaques, was well acquainted with 
the Lenca language. This person undertook the 
task, and having invited Pedro de Ovalle to join 
him, they set out from Guatemala on the 16th 
of May, 1667. On reaching the confines of 
Taguzgalpa, they directed their course into the 
mountains, and after enduring much fatigue in 
searching for the natives, met with a family 
of the Lencas, who were then going to put to 
death a girl accused of the crime of witchcraft; 
Espino did every thing in his power to rescue the 
victim, but could not succeed in saving her; all 
he could obtain was a short respite, in which in- 
terval he was allowed to administer the sacra- 
ment of baptism : he performed the same office 
for another female who was dangerously sick, 
and she died much consoled by it. The 2 
ministers continued in the discharge of their 
duties with moderately good success, until the 
beginning of the year 1668, when Espino was 
recalled. Ovalle and some companions, who had 
been sent to him, pursued their labours diligently, 
and after great difficulties, succeeded in bringing 
600 Pagans from the mountains: in 1675, they had 
formed 7 small villages, in which was settled a 
Christian population of 600 souls. In 1679, this 
number had increased to 1073; in 1690, the num- 
berof Indians thathad died in the Christian faith ex- 
ceeded 6000, and there were then 9 villages settled. 



371 

In 1694, some members of the college of mis- 
sionaries de Propaganda fide, of the city of Que- 
retaro, arrived at Guatemala, with the intention 
of founding there a college of the same institu- 
tion ; and as the ardent zeal of these persons could 
not remain unemployed, until their establishment 
was completed, some of them set out for Tala- 
manca, and others for the province of Choi. 
Melchor Lopez, who had been appointed presi- 
dent of these missionaries, having returned from 
Talamanca in 1695, undertook a new expedition, 
in conjunction with Pedro de Urtiaga, to the 
bishoprick of Comayagua, where he preached 
with his accustomed fervour ; and being near 
Taguzgalpa, although the reductions in that pro- 
vince were under the charge of the society of 
Nombre de Jesus of Guatemala, he was desirous of 
participating in the enterprise ; and, by permission 
of the society, both he and his companion went 
into the interior, where they pursued their labours 
with indefatigable perseverance, to the incalcu- 
lable benefit of the infidels, until 1698, when Lo- 
pez paid the debt of nature. The establishment 
of the college de Propaganda fide, was completed 
in 1701, and, in imitation of its founder, took upon 
itself the charge of the civilization of Honduras: 
in the present day it has there one mission, in 
which there are never less than two persons em- 
ployed. The society of Nombre de Jesus did 
not give up their endeavours towards promo- 
ting the conversion of the Indians ; for besides 
others, they sent, in 1740, or thereabouts, Fe- 
lix Figueroa, a man of great talents and vir- 
tue, to Taguzgalpa : he returned soon after- 
ward to Guatemala, on business relative to his 

2 B 2 



37^ 

mission, but almost immediately went again ^o 
that province, and continued in the instructioi> of 
the converts until his death. There is preserved 
in the church at the village of Santa Buenaven- 
tura, a very heavy cross, which this exemplary 
man took the pains to carry on his shoulders from 
Guatemala to that place. Only a few years since, 
Jos6 Antonio Goicoechea, an ecclesiastic, upwards 
of 70 years of age, who had held the office of 
lecturer in his society for three periods, at the ex- 
piration of either of which he was entitled to retire 
from the performance of all duties, after having 
been sent as procurator to the court of Madrid, 
whence he returned with a mission of 46 per- 
sons, and finally, after having filled the office of 
provincial minister, was determined to dedicate 
the remainder of his old age to the service of reli- 
gion : he, therefore, accompanied by Jose Antonio 
Martinez, set off, in June, 1805, for Taguzgalpa. 
On arriving at the boundaries of the province, 
they first proceeded to the mountain of Agalta, 
where, notwithstanding the ferocity and extreme 
barbarism of the natives, they succeeded in civi- 
lizing great numbers, with whom they peopled 
2 villages, called Nombre de Jesus Pacura, and 
St. Estevan Tonjagua. After 2 years' labours, 
Goicoechea was recalled to Guatemala, and the 
inhabitants of the above-named villages being then 
left without a minister, some of them went to the 
capital, and entreated the governor to send a 
priest to take charge of them : the government 
desired a report from Goicoechea on the subject, 
which he made in November, 1807, representing 
the necessity of keeping ministers in that country, 
from the excellent disposition shewn by the na- 



373 

tives generally to embrace Christianity. An In- 
dian, named Antonio Lopez, professor of lan- 
guages in the university of Guatemala, also made 
a report to the government, as the representative 
of his nation, on the same subject; in consequence 
of which, the supreme council of regency passed 
an edict, on the 1st of March, 1810, commanding, 
that, after taking the opinion of Goicoechea, mi- 
nisters should be immediately provided for these 
missions. 



CHAP. XXXIII. 



The Conquest of Talamanca, in the Province of 
Costa Rica. 

Talamanca is situated on the coast of the At- 
lantic Ocean, within the province of Costa Rica, 
in the same manner as Tologalpa is in that of Ni- 
caragua, and Taguzgalpa in Comayagua. Tala- 
manca contains 26 diflferent tribes of Indians ; 
besides which there are several neighbouring na- 
tions, as the Changuenes, divided into 13 tribes ; 
the Terrabas, the Torresques, Urinamas, and 
Cavecaras. The surface of the country is very 
rugged, and the climate extremely hot. There are 
many large rivers, and extensive thick forests, 
which render the whole district excessively un- 
healthy. It is bounded on the west and south by 
the province of Costa Rica, on the east by the 
districts of Chiriqui and Veraguas, and on the 
north by the sea. 

In the history of the order of Bethlemites, 
lib. 2, cap. 4, it is said, that when Don Rodrigo 
Arias Maldonado, (afterward Fray Rodrigo de 



374 

la Cruz) was governor and captain-general of 
Costa Rica in 1660, he undertook the conquest 
of Talamanca ; after expending 60,000 dollars of 
his own private fortune^ and undergoing great 
personal fatigues and hardships, he successfully 
achieved his enterprise: he founded several vil- 
lages, in which he built decent churches, and 
provided them with ministers for the instruction 
and care of the inhabitants ; as a reward for these 
services, he was created marquis of Talamanca. 
The term of his government having expired, he 
retired from the province; after which the natives 
soon returned to their former wandering mode of 
life, the villages were forsaken, the churches ruin- 
ed, and all the benefits of Maldonado's labours 
entirely lost : so that when Melchor Lopez and 
Antonio Margil resumed the suspended work of 
civilization, they found all the avenues to the in- 
terior of the country almost as impervious as if 
they had never been opened ; the roads, or rather 
the paths, overgrown and obliterated, as if they 
had never been trodden ; the Indians as wild as if 
they had never known the advantages of living in 
a domiciliated state, and as ferocious as ever they 
had been in the periods of their paganism. With- 
out arms or protection, these two persons ad- 
vanced to the interior of the district, where, in 
the space of 5 years' residence among the barba- 
rians, and in the endurance of all the hardships 
of fatigue, famine, and every privation, they ac- 
complished (according to the chronicle of the 
colleges de Propaganda fide, lib. 5, cap. 1,) the 
conversion of more than 40,000 souls, founded 
1 1 villages, with a church in each, in Talamanca; 
and 3 in the other nations. In the year 1694, 



375 

a hospicio (or college destined for the reception 
of missionaries) was founded in Guatemala, and 
Melchor Lopez appointed president of it. This 
venerable prelate deputed Francisco de St. Jose, 
and Pablo de Rebullida, to continue the conver- 
sion of the Talamancan Indians : they proceeded 
w^ithout delay to Costa Rica, and on their arrival 
at Cartago, established a mission in that city. 
This arrangement completed, they proceeded to 
the mountainous part of the country, and visited 
the different establishments that had been formed 
by Lopez and Margil : they christened many 
children, performed the marriage ceremony for 
the adults that had previously become Christians, 
rebuilt the churches inTalamanca and Terrabas, 
and confirmed in the faith those who had been 
converted. They next proceeded to the Chan- 
guenes, a very populous nation, extremely cruel 
and ferocious, continually at war with the adjoin- 
ing nations ; and even the different tribes of the 
same nation were almost always in a state of hos- 
tility : yet notwithstandingall these circumstances, 
so adverse to the propagation of Christianity, the 
unw^earied zeal of the 2 missionaries succeeded 
in civilizing a great part of this warlike people. 
Francisco de St. Jos6 next went to the isle of 
Toxas, lying a short distance from the country of 
the Changuenes ; Rebullida continued his labours 
incessantly for the space of 12 years among the 
Changuenes ; some times alone, at others aided 
by some fathers from the province of Nicaragua, 
or the college at Guatemala : he endured the ex- 
cessive heats of the climate, famine, sickness, and 
injuries received in travelling through wilds al- 
most impenetrable ; but neither his courage nor 



376 

enthusiasm were abated by his sufferings, or the 
ungrateful return made by the natives, who treat- 
ed him with great inhumanity ; frequently beating 
him severely with their lances, often inflicting 
wounds with large stones, and not seldom deli- 
berating about putting him to death ; many of 
them forced him to carry wood, and labour in 
building their huts : after a long series of cruelties 
they put him to death, by transfixing him with 
lances, and afterward cut off his head. A simi- 
lar fate befel Juan de Zamora, a priest of Nicara- 
gua, and some soldiers who were employed as an 
escort of the missionaries. Rebullida also lost his 
life on the 17th of September, 1709, in the village 
of St. Francisco de Urimana; his body was 
brought to Guatemala by his companion, Antonio 
de Andrada, who, at the time of his friend's death, 
was at the convent of Cartago, or in all probabi- 
lity he would have shared his fate. Francisco de 
St. Jose, after visiting the different villages of con- 
verted Indians, and passing thence into the Chan- 
guenes nation, with Rebullida, went to the isle of 
Toxas, where he was exposed to hardships of 
every description. In 1696, his health had suf- 
fered so seriously, that he was forced to quit the 
island in order to re-establish it ; he retired to 
Santa Ana de Vezeyta, where he again met Re- 
bullida, who delivered to him a letter, by which 
he was informed, that he had been elected guar- 
dian of the college of Queretaro 16 months before. 
He set out on his way to that place, but on reach- 
ing Guatemala, received an order from Antonio 
Margil, who, on account of his long delay in arriv- 
ing at the convent, had been confirmed guardian in 
his stead, to return to Talamanca. In November^ 



377 

1697, heleft Guatemala once more for Costa Rica; 
and^ on arriving there, continued his labours 
among the natives of Talanianca and at the isle 
of Toxas until the year 1708, when he was chosen 
president of the college of Granada, in the pro- 
vince of Nicaragua : he persevered several years 
in his endeavours to convert the infidels of Costa 
Rica, and his ardent zeal leading him from one 
nation to another, he penetrated into the extensive 
kingdom of Peru : finding the natives endued with 
great docility, he pursued his journey until he 
reached the city of Lima. In that capital, by 
virtue of his powers as vice-commissary of mis- 
sions, he solicited permission to establish a col- 
lege in the kingdom : this he obtained, and in 
consequence, founded 2 colleges, besides several 
missions ; being thus the first person who extend- 
ed the apostolic institution to South America: 
he persevered in his plans of conversion, and had 
the satisfaction of seeing his labours rewarded 
with ample success in these vast regions before 
his death, which took place in 1736, at the ad- 
vanced age of 82 years. The reduction of Tala- 
nianca has always been in the hands of the mem- 
bers of (he college of Nombre de Jesus of Guate- 
mala, the founders of that institution were the 
first who commenced the hazardous enterprise ; 
and since that period, the different prelates at the 
head of it have continued the same with great 
perseverance. But after the murder of the 2 
first missionaries, there remained only 1 village, 
in which 2 priests resided ; and from the want 
of a military escort, they remained for several 
years without making any attempt to visit the 
natives in the mountains ; nor, indeed, would the 



378 

principals permit them to hazard their lives among 
such furious savages. From the year 1699, earnest 
solicitations were repeatedly made to the go- 
vernor, to grant a troop of 30 soldiers for the pro- 
tection of the ministers ; but as these men were 
to draw their subsistence from the royal revenues, 
it was necessary to have the sanction of the king 
before such a request could be granted. Ulti- 
mately, the governor was authorized to allow the 
required protection, and, in 1740, Antonio de 
Andrada, ex-guardian of the college, and 3 other 
ecclesiastics, set out for Talamanca, escorted by 
a body of soldiers ; many other members of this 
seminary have, at various periods, been employed 
in this service, with variable success, not un- 
frequently exposed to attacks and ill-treatment 
from the fierce barbarians. In 1750, Francisco 
Sarria was cruelly used by them, and received a 
dreadful wound in the face, which terribly dis- 
figured him. At the present time there are 3 
missions maintained in Talamanca, where 6 eccle- 
siastics are employed, viz, Orosi, to which Atirro 
and Tucurrique are annexed ; Burruca, and St. 
Francisco de Terraba, with its adjunct, Guada- 
lupe. 



CHAP. XXXIV. 



Of the five middle Provinces, viz. Totonicapan, 
Quezaltenango, Solold, Chimaltenango, and Sa- 
catepeques ; and of their most celebrated Cities 
in the time of the Idolaters, 

Utatlan was indisputably the most magnifi- 
cent and opulent city, not only of Quiche, but of 



379 

the whole kingdom of Guatemala. Of the capital 
of the kings of Quich6, of the multitudes of its 
inhabitants^ the magnificence of its temples, the 
grandeur of its public buildings, of its fortress, 
impregnable from situation, as well as from nu- 
merous castles and fortifications ; all the informa- 
tion it was possible to obtain has been already 
given in a former part of this work, under the head 
of Santa Cruz del Quich6. 

Next to Utatlan, the most considerable city in 
Quich6 was Xelahuh, which is in modern times 
the extensive town of Quezaltenango ; the name 
of this place conveys a complete idea of its mag- 
nitude, the word Xelahuh meaning, ** under the 
government of 10," that is, it was governed by 
10 principal captains ; and, according to the an- 
cient style of the natives, each captain presided 
over his respective xiquipil, or 8000 dwellings : 
it therefore contained 80,000 houses ; and, as Fu- 
entes expresses himself, ** consequently more than 
300,000 inhabitants." It was so strongly fortified, 
that it never was taken by the enemies of the 
king of Quich6, although it had been repeatedly 
besieged. The Spaniards obtained possession of 
it because the inhabitants were terrified by the 
fame of their exploits : this alarm was greatly in- 
creased by the defeat of a body of 24,000 Quezal- 
tecos, that had attempted to arrest their progress; 
and in consequence, the greater part of the popu- 
lation retired to their ancient fortresses, Exca- 
nul, which is the volcano of Quezaltenango ; and 
Cekxak, another mountain adjoining: the Casti- 
lians then advanced to Xelahuh, and finding it 
deserted, took possession, and passed the night 
there. At dawn of the following day, says a MS. 



380 

of 16 i^leaves, found in the village of St. Andres 
Xecul, fol. 11, the Spanish videttes captured 
4 caciques, whose names were Calel Ralek, 
Ahpopqueham/Calelahau, and Calelaboy ; who, 
as soon as they were brought into the city, fell 
on their knees before Pedro de Alvarado, told 
him their names and rank, and assured him that 
they came of their own free will to pay their re- 
spects to him, and submit to his orders. The 
general received them with benignity and every 
mark|of respect: the same MS. fol. 15, says, he 
consulted for some time with a priest, who then 
explained to them the nature of the Christian 
faith and the laws of God ; they were afterward 
told, that if they wished to enjoy peace, and the 
friendship of the Spaniards, they must immedi- 
ately return to the mountain, and by their autho- 
rity as chiefs, induce the inhabitants to come back 
to their houses. These 4 caciques declared them- 
selves ready to embrace Christianity, and swear 
allegiance to the king of Spain : 2 of them then 
returned to the mountain fortress, while the 
others remained in the city as hostages. The 2 
messengers quickly came back, followed by a 
great multitude of Indians ; the great square of 
the town was insufficient to contain them all, and 
numbers were dispersed in troops through the 
different streets ; they were once more assured 
they might enjoy peace, and again invited to 
adopt the Christian religion. Alvarado made 
presents to the different chiefs, who were then 
dismissed to their own habitations. From that 
period the Indians of Quezaltenango have shewn 
an inviolable fidelity to the Spaniards ; even when 
the kings of Quiche and Kachiquel revolted in 



381 

the year 1526, the city of Xelahuh was unaffected 
by these discontents. It has been already stated 
in another part, that Alvarado left a detachment 
of troops under the command of Juan de Leon 
Cardona to garrison Sahcaja ; at that place (ac- 
cording to Vasquez, lib. 1, cap. 1 and 2), a cha- 
pel was built, and a village, to be inhabited by 
Spaniards, was formed. It received the name of 
Quezaltenango, an Indian word, meaning the 
" mountain of Quezales ;" the place where it was 
built being so called. At the expiration of 4 
years, the population of Quezaltenango was trans- 
ferred to the city of Xelahuh ; from which period 
it has exchanged its original appellation and title 
of city, for that of the village of Quezaltenango. 
This place was for some time subject to the au- 
thority of Juan de Leon Cardona, and afterward 
to the city of Guatemala, as appears from the 
cabildo held on the 1st of August, 1542; in later 
times it has had a resident corregidor, who was 
also governor of the district ; and at present it 
has an ayuntamiento, consisting entirely of Spa- 
niards, established by order of the governor-ge- 
neral, Antonio Gonzalez de Saravia. The church 
government of it was at first committed to a 
Franciscan, who accompanied Alvarado, and 
whom the general left in the chapel of Sahcaja 
to instruct the Quich6 Indians ; a mission of that 
order arriving from Spain, founded one of their 
first convents at Quezaltenango : on this account, 
as Vasquez tells the story, (lib. 1, cap. 26,) when 
the Dominicans wished to form a convent here in 
1553, they were compelled to desist from the at- 
tempt, because the Dominicans had anticipated 
them ; and by royal edicts it is prohibited, for any 



382 

order to erect a religious house in a place where 
there exists already a similar establishment be- 
longing to another order. Mention is made of 
this convent in an edict so early as 1551; and in 
the first chapter of the order, held in 1566, Fran- 
cisco de Colmenar was appointed guardian of it. 

Chemequena was another celebrated city in the 
kingdom of Quiche ; in the native language this 
name signifies *' upon warm water:" it is at pre- 
sent the village of Totonicapan. Under its na- 
tive princes the population must have been very 
great, as it could place 90,000 fighting men at the 
disposal of King Tecum Umam. The forces of 
this place that opposed the Spaniards, being de- 
feated in the battle of Peiiar, they, in imitation of 
the people of Quezaltenango, soon submitted to 
the authority of Spain, and embraced the Chris- 
tian religion. It was at first the chief place of a 
corregimiento, and afterward the capital of the 
alcaldia of Totonicapan; but, in 1640 or 1645, 
the residence of the corregidors was transferred 
to Gueguetenango, because it was more in the 
centre of their jurisdiction; the alcaldes mayor, 
however, now reside in Totonicapan. The eccle- 
siastical aflfairs are under the direction of the 
Franciscans, whose convent had the dignity of a 
guardian so early as 1566. 

The city of Patinamit was in the kingdom of 
Kachiquel, and, if it corresponded with the signi- 
fication of its name, was, without doubt, the prin- 
cipal one ; as, in the idiom of the natives, the 
word implies definitely " the city:" it was also 
called Tecpanguatemala, which, according to 
Vasquez, means " the royal house of Guatema- 
la;" whence this writer infers, that it was the ca- 



383 

pital of the Kachiquel kings. Fuentes^ torn. 1, 
lib. 3, cap. 1, and lib. 15, cap. 5, supposes, Tec- 
panguatemala to have been a large city, and the 
arsenal of the kingdom, but not the royal resi- 
dence : for it is known that honour belonged to 
the city of Guatemala, and that the former was a 
different place, situated on an eminence with re- 
spect to the latter ; the word Tecpan meaning 
*' above. " Tecpan Atitlan was also a distinct 
place, and in an elevated position with respecf^to 
Atitlan. Patinamit was seated on an eminence, 
and surrounded by a deep defile or natural fosse; 
from the level of the city to the bottom of the 
ditch was a perpendicular depth of more than 
100 fathoms : this trench admitted but of one 
entrance into the place, which was by a narrow 
causeway terminated by 2 gates constructed of 
the chay stone, 1 on the exterior, and the other 
on the interior surface of the wall of the city. 
The plane of this eminence extends about 3 miles 
in length from north to south, and about 2 in 
breadth from east to west ; the soil is covered with 
a stiff clay, about three quarters of a yard deep: 
on one side of the plane may be seen the remains 
of a magnificent building, perfectly square, each 
side measuring 100 paces. This fabric was con- 
structed of hewn stone, extremely well put toge- 
ther; in front of the building there is a large 
square, on one side of which stand the ruins of 
a sumptuous palace, and near to it there are the 
foundations of several houses. A trench, 3 yards 
deep, runs from north to south through the city, 
having a breastwork of masonry, rising about a 
yard high : on the eastern side of this trench 
stood the houses of the nobles, and on the oppo- 



. 384 

site, the residences of the maseguales or com- 
moners. The streets were, as may still be seen, 
straight and spacious, crossing each other at right 
angles. To the westward of the city there is a 
little mount that commands it ; on this eminence 
stands a small round building, about 6 feet in 
height, in the middle of which there is a pedestal 
formed of a shining substance, resembling glass ; 
but the precise quality of it has not been ascer- 
tained. Seated around this building, the judges 
heard and decided upon the causes brought be- 
fore them ; and here also their sentences were 
executed. Previous, however, to carrying a sen- 
tence into effect, it was necessary to have it con- 
firmed by the oracle : for which purpose, 3 af the 
judges quitted their seats, and proceeded to a 
deep ravine, where there was a place of worship, 
wherein was placed a black transparent stone, of 
a substance much more valuable than i\\e chay ; 
on the surface of this tablet the Deity was sup- 
posed to give a representation of the fate that 
awaited the criminal: if the decision of the judges 
was approved, the sentence was immediately in- 
flicted ; on the contrary, if nothing appeared on 
the stone, the accused was set at liberty: this ora- 
cle was also consulted in the affairs of war. The 
bishop, Francisco Marroquin, having obtained 
intelligence of this slab, ordered it to be cut 
square, and consecrated it for the top of the 
grand altar in the church of Tecpanguatemala : 
it is a piece of singular beauty, about half a yard 
each way. The minute description of the city given 
by Fuentes, leads to a supposition that he had 
been an eye-witness of what he relates : this idea 
is corroborated by his assertion, that he went to 



385 

Quich6 for the express purpose of examining the 
antiquities of Utatlan. The conquerors removed 
the population of that city to the spot now occu- 
pied by the village^ about a league and a half 
from its ancient seat; because the number of 
Spaniards that could be spared to garrison it was 
but small, and, in the event of a revolt of the In- 
dians, it might be a very difficult matter to regain 
possession of it. Vasquez says, a Franciscan 
priest remained in Patinamit to instruct the Ka- 
chiquel Indians, and that a convent was founded 
there, which remained until 1754, when it was se- 
cularized. 

The city of Mixco was one of considerable im- 
portance in the kingdom of the Kachiquels, as well 
as one of the strongest and best fortified places 
in the whole country. The original founders 
belonged to the Pocoman nation; and, being in 
a state of hostility with the Quiches and Ka- 
chiquels, they resolved to settle in the valley of 
Xilotepeque, particularly as they were in alliance 
with the people of the surrounding cantons. They 
chose an eminence that nature had rendered im- 
pregnable; it was a steep rock, the ascent to 
which being by a narrow path that would not 
admit 2 persons abreast, in several places in- 
tersected by deep ravines ; the top of the rock 
presented a level surface, on which the city was 
built. The present town of Mixco was founded 
by Pedro de Alvarado, about 9 leagues distant 
from the site of the ancient city. 

Of the kingdom of Zutugil, the capital was 
Atitlan, a name that in the Pipil language signi- 
fies ** a water courier." It was also called At- 
ziquinixai, which, in the Quiche idiom, means, 

2c 



386 

** the eagles' house ;" a name originating from the 
practice of their kings, who, when they took the 
field, wore, as a distinguishing device, a large 
plume of the quezal's feathers in the form of an 
eagle. This extensive city was in a position 
strongly defended by natural bulwarks, among 
steep, hanging rocks, on the border of the lake of 
the same name, which protected it on the south 
side. One proof of its strength is, that the kings 
of the Zutugiles, from the very commencement of 
their empire until the arrival of the Spaniards, were 
continually at war, either with the Quiches or 
Kachiquels, and neither of these powerful nations 
were ever able to subdue it. The Spaniards con- 
quered it in 1524, and have always kept in sub- 
jection the natives of the district, who, from that 
period, seemed to lose their independent and 
warlike spirit. Historians have made no mention 
of the usual place of residence of the royal family 
of the Zutugiles. Vasquez, lib. 1, cap. 13, re- 
ports, that the religious instruction of these In- 
dians was undertaken by the priest who remained 
at Tecpanguatemala ; he went to Atitlan, where 
he converted several of the inhabitants, and con- 
tinued his labours with zeal and good effect until 
1541, when Gonzalo Mendez was established 
there. The former founded in Atitlan the first 
convent of the Franciscans in any of the Indian 
towns ; beginning, in 1538, to give effect to the 
royal edict, that enjoined the erection of convents 
and building of churches in the largest and most 
populous places: when the boundaries of the 
province were settled, in 1566, the convent was 
made guardian of it ; it was secularized in 1754. 
In temporal affairs, Atitlan was at first governed 



387 

by a corregidor, who resided there : the corregi- 
miento was afterward united with that of Tecpa- 
natitlan, to form the alcaldia mayor of Solola, to 
which jurisdiction Atitlan now belongs, but it is 
shorn of all its ancient splendour. 



CHAP. XXXV. 



The Conquest of Quiche. 

The monarchy of Utatlan had attained its 
greatest extent and splendour in the reign of 
Kicab Tanub, son of Kicab the Fourth; from 
the very foundation it had been the most power- 
ful, and the different sovereigns who had occu- 
pied the throne, continued to increase it by the 
many cities and extensive territories which they 
wrested from the neighbouring caciques by force 
of arms. Kicab Tanub was insatiable in his am- 
bition ; and for the purpose of extending his domi- 
nions was engaged in a sanguinary war with the 
kings of the Zutugiles and the Mams, when he 
received advice that the Spaniards had already 
arrived at the boundaries of Soconusco. This 
news obliged him to desist from his predatory 
excursions, and dispatch messengers to the 
other kings and chiefs, inviting them to confe- 
derate for their common defence. The reply 
did not correspond with the expectations of the 
sovereign : for Sinacam, king of Guatemala, being 
dissatisfied with the king of Quich6, who, un- 
der pretence of affording him assistance against 
Ahpocaquil, one of his chiefs who had revolted 
actually protected the rebels ; he therefore refused 

2c 2 



388 

the alliance^ and openly declared that he was a 
friend to the Teules (the name given by the In- 
dians to the Spaniards). The king of the Zutu- 
giles replied to the invitation even with more 
haughtiness. He said, '' he was able to defend 
his kingdom without the assistance of Kicab 
Tanub, against a more numerous and less fa- 
mished army than that of the strangers which was 
marching against Quiche." These contemptuous 
and insolent answers severely galled the ambi- 
tious monarch, and added to the fatigues of col- 
lecting his forces, raising defences, and making 
due preparations for the threatening war, made 
such havoc on his constitution, that he was at- 
tacked by a sickness which carried him off in a 
short time. He was succeeded by his eldest son, 
Tecum Umam, who had but little leisure to in- 
dulge in sorrow for his deceased parent; as the 
tzamaheles, or couriers, almost hourly brought 
him advice of the Spaniards' approach, and called 
all his attention to warlike dispositions, and ar- 
rangements of his plans for the campaign. At 
length information arrived that the captain, To- 
nati, and his Teules had marched from Soco- 
nusco to besiege Xelahuh (or Quezaltenango) ; 
the largest, best fortified, and most important 
place in the kingdom of Quiche, having at that 
time within its walls a force of 80,000 men for its 
defence: so great, however, was the fame the 
Spaniards had acquired by their exploits, that 
the confidence of Tecum Umam began to waver. 
He quitted his capital with great pomp, borne in 
his litter on the shoulders of the principal men of 
his kingdom, preceded by the music of flutes, 
cornets, and drums, and 70,000 men, commanded 



389 

by his principal general Ahzol, his lieutenant 
Ahzumanche, the grand shield-bearer Ahpocob, 
many other officers of great dignity, and a great 
number of attendants bearing parasols and fans of 
feathers, for the use of the royal person^ all well 
armed and prepared for a vigorous resistance. 
An immense number of Tamames, or Indians em- 
ployed to carry burdens, followed the army, with 
the baggage and provisions. They arrived with 
as much expedition as the ceremony and nume- 
rous cortege of the king was capable of at the 
populous city of Chemequeiia, or Totonicapan ; 
where the army was increased by the junctions 
of several chiefs, bringing up their forces from 8 
strong towns and 18 villages within their juris- 
diction, amounting to no less than 90,000 fighting 
men. He continued his march to Quezaltenango, 
where he was joined by 10 more chiefs with mag- 
nificent trains, well armed and supplied with pro- 
visions ; displaying all the gorgeous insignia of 
their ranks, and attended by 24,000 soldiers. At 
the same place he was reinforced by 46,000 more 
combatants, adorned with plumes of different co- 
lours, and provided with arms of every descrip- 
tion ; the chiefs were decorated with the skins of 
lions, tigers, and bears, as distinguishing marks of 
their bravery and warlike prowess: this numerous 
squadron was commanded by 11 officers, all de- 
scendants of the renowned Capichoch. Tecum 
Umam, with all these reinforcements, now mar- 
shalled 232,000 warriors under his banners ; the 
different divisions were posted on the plain of 
Tzaccaha, the field of battle of this first cam- 
paign. The monarch, at the head of this nume- 
rous army, had not sufficient reliance upon it to 



390 

think himself secure : he fortified his camp with 
a wall of loose stones, which was so extensive 
as to enclose within its circuit several mountains ; 
the wall was farther strengthened by a deep ditch, 
lined with poisoned stakes placed slantwise in 
rows, one behind the other. All the country from 
Tzaccaha to the pass leading to the coast, was 
occupied by the squadrons of Tecum Umam, 
besides which there were many well fortified 
towns ; in the camp there were several military 
machines, or small portable castles, formed of 
beams and planks, which being placed on rollers 
were moved from one place to another by armed 
men ; these were filled with great quantities of 
pikes, arrows, lances, shields, slings, and stones, 
and attended by chosen bodies of active soldiers, 
who distributed the munitions to the different 
divisions of the army. 

The Spaniards having crossed the province of 
Soconusco, arrived at Palahunoh, a range of 
mountains which they ascended, and captured 
the strong place and castle of Xetulul or Sapo- 
titlan, but not without the troops suffering much 
from fatigues, and the loss of many of the Tlas- 
caitecan allies killed. The army pursued its 
march, and on arriving at the River Zamala, 
was vigorously attacked from an ambush by a 
large body of Indians, who attempted to check 
its progress : while the troops were forming, the 
enemy discharged immense quantities of pikes, 
arrows, and stones, which occasioned consider- 
able loss among the Indian allies : as soon as the 
Spanish squadron had deployed, it opened a fire 
of musketry upon the Quiches, which killing a 
great many of them, they were quickly defeated 



391 

and put to flight; but the victory cost the lives of 
some European soldiers. The enemy were not so 
dismayed as to prevent their rallying ; they brought 
up fresh troops, and renewed the attack upon the 
Spaniards 3 times with great fury, and maintained 
the combat steadily until some of their leaders were 
killed, when they retired with precipitation. The 
Spaniards now thought themselves relieved from 
the assaults of the barbarians, and having passed 
the River Zamala on a narrow wooden bridge, 
took the road to Xelahuh, marching with the 
utmost caution to avoid another surprise. They 
began to ascend a steep ridge (now called the 
ridge of Santa Maria de Jesus) by a very rough 
diflScult road, when an immense host of Indians 
shewed themselves determined to resist the ad- 
vance ; at the same time, the top of the height 
was seen covered with the enemy ; another battle 
was inevitable : in short, from the River Zamala 
to the Olintepeque, a series of 6 actions took 
place, in all of which the Indians were defeated 
with great slaughter: of these, that fought in 
the defile of the latter river was the most despe- 
rate and bloody ; the stream was reddened with 
the carnage of the wretched Indians, and from 
that time its name was changed for the significant 
one of Xiquigel, or the river of blood. The enemy 
retired, but soon formed again with fresh troops, 
and renewed the contest : they attacked the Cas- 
tilians with such furious desperation, that 3 or 
4 of them seized the tail of each horse, and en- 
deavoured by main force to overthrow both it 
and the rider : this was one of the severest con- 
flicts in which the Spaniards had been hitherto 
engaged ; immense bodies of the enemy sur- 



rounded and pressed upon them in all directions ; 
but their courage, superior to every danger, res- 
cued them from the perilous situation ; they 
pierced the solid squadrons of the Quiches, 
broke them, and totally routed the whole army : 
an immense number was left dead on the field, 
and among them the general, Ahzumauche. 

After this defeat, the Indians remained 3 days 
without attempting any farther operations, and 
the Spaniards availed themselves of that cessa- 
tion for refreshment after the great fatigues they 
had sustained ; not in quarters at Quezaltenango, 
as Herrera reports, but on the open plain. On 
the fourth day the army advanced to the city of 
Xelahuh, which they found abandoned by the in- 
habitants. Detachments were sent in search of 
the enemy, and many prisoners were brought in, 
who reported that in the last action, 2 of the most 
important personages of Utatlan had been killed; 
Ahzol, a general and a relation of the king, and 
Apocob, the king's shield-bearer, who commanded 
one of the large divisions of the army ; they also 
said, that the inhabitants had fled to the moun- 
tains to escape the vengeance they expected the 
Spaniards would take for the resistance that had 
been made : assurance of peace and good treatment 
having been repeatedly given, they began to re- 
turn in great numbers, and afterward served in 
the Spanish army with great fidelity. At this 
time, it was discovered that all the force of the 
surrounding country had been collected to make 
another attack on the Spaniards, and that the 
advanced body of the Indians consisted of 2 
xiquipiles, or 16,000 men. The army imme- 
diately quitted the city, and took up a favour- 



S9S 

able position on a plain where there was neither 
impediment nor commanding eminence: the ca- 
valry, consisting of 135 men, was divided into 2 
troops, one commanded by Pedro de Portocar- 
rero, and the other by Hernando de Chaves ; 
Alvarado himself commanded the infantry. The 
army of the Indians was formed into 2 very strong 
divisions, commanded by Tecum Umam in person. 
As soon as the contending parties came within 
reach of each other^ a furious combat ensued ; 
one of the Indian divisions, being attacked by the 
cavalry, was forced to abandon its position, and 
retire for support towards the other^ which was re- 
salutely engaged with the infantry; on the defeat 
of the first division the cavalry rejoined the main 
body, where the general had, by several small de- 
tachments, been able to resist the force of Tecum 
Umam : the king personally attacked Alvarado, 
and wounded his horse so severely, that he was 
forced to dismount, and procure another. Tecum 
Umam renewed his assault upon the general a 
second and even a third time, and in the last en- 
counter received a wound from a lance, by the 
hand of Alvarado, of which he died almost im- 
mediately. The fury of the Indians was increased 
to madness on seeing their monarch fall ; the 
discharge of pikes, arrows, and stones that fol- 
lowed, was more violent than any thing that had 
been hitherto witnessed ; a critical moment was 
seized for attacking in close column, and that 
mancEuvre decided thefateof theday : the Indians, 
unable to make head against this solid body, 
yielded to despair, and broke away in the most 
precipitate flight, leaving the Spaniards com^ 
pletely masters of the field. 



394 

Hopeless of being able longer to resist the con- 
querors by the force of their arms, they had recourse 
to stratagem and treachery, which was determined 
upon in a council of war held in Utatlan, by the 
King Chignauivcelut, son and successor of Tecum 
Umam. To put their design into practice, the 
king began by sending a solemn embassy to 
Alvarado with a valuable present of gold^ to sue 
for peace and forgiveness for the past, and to 
offer submission to the Spanish monarch ; the 
ambassadors entreated the general to visit the 
capital, where he might conveniently refresh him- 
self after his late severe fatigues, and where the 
king was anxious to receive and entertain him 
with whatever his dominions could afford. Al- 
varado most anxiously desired to establish peace, 
and this invitation being considered a favourable 
opportunity, he received the ambassadors with 
every mark of distinction and kindness ; he pro- 
mised to repair to Utatlan, and dismissed them 
with presents of some trifles of Spanish workman- 
ship, that were held in the highest estimation by 
the Indians. On the following day, the army de- 
camped for Utatlan, in the higliest spirit, believ- 
ing the demonstrations of the Quiches to be sin- 
cere, and supposing that the war was terminated. 
But on entering the city^ and observing the 
strength of the place, that it was well walled and 
surrounded by a deep ravine, having but two ap- 
proaches to it ; the one by an ascent of 25 steps, 
and the other by a causeway, both of which were 
extremely narrow ; that the streets were but of 
trifling breadth, and the houses very lofty ; per- 
ceiving also that there were neither women or 
children in the place, and that the Indians ap- 



395 

peared greatly agitated, the soldiers began to sus- 
pect some deceit. Their apprehensions were 
soon confirmed by the Indians of Quezaltenango, 
who accompanied the army; these had discover- 
ed, that the people of Utatlan intended that night 
to set the tow a on fire in order to destroy the 
Spaniards; and that large bodies of them were 
concealed in the neighbouring defiles, who were, 
as soon as they saw the flames, to fall upon the 
Spaniards, as they endeavoured to escape from the 
fire : on gaining this intelligence, the troops ob- 
served the movements of the Utatlans very cau- 
tiously ; they examined the houses, and ascer- 
tained that there was no preparation of victuals to 
regale them, as they had been promised ; but that 
there was in every place a great quantity of light 
dry fuel and other combustibles. Alvarado no 
longer doubted the correctness of the information; 
he assembled a council, represented to the offi- 
cers the perilous situation in which they were in- 
volved, and the immediate necessity of quitting 
the place : the troops were then collected, and 
without any appearance of alarm, marched out in 
good order to the open plain ; pretending to Chig- 
nauivcelut and his caciques, that they quitted the 
city for the better accommodation of the horses, 
which were accustomed to feed at liberty in the 
fields : the king with pretended courtesy accom- 
panying the army to the plain, the general avail- 
ed himself of this opportunity to make him a pri- 
soner ; and after a trial in which proofs of his 
treachery were adduced, he was sentenced to be 
hanged, and the punishment immediately inflicted. 
Neither the death of Tecum Umam and their 
principal leaders slain in battle, nor the igno- 



396 

minions execution of Chignauivcelut was sufficient 
to intimidate the fierce spirit of the Quiches ; 
on the contrary, it excited fresh ebullitions of rage 
and animosity ; they gave the signal to the troops 
that lay in ambush, and a general attack upon the 
Spaniards ensued : the army was assaulted simul- 
taneously on all sides by powerful squadrons of 
the Indians ; but Spanish bravery increased with 
increasing dangers ; the artillery was brought 
into action, and made dreadful havoc in the 
enemy's ranks, who however maintained the con- 
test with desperate valour for a short time; but 
they were soon thrown into confusion : the lead- 
ers were unable to rally their troops against the 
destructive fire of the guns, and they abandoned 
a field already covered with heaps of slain ; some 
fled to their places of refuge, and others threw 
away their arms in token of submission, and sur- 
rendered themselves and their caciques to the ge- 
nerosity of their conquerors, who by this victory 
remained undisputed masters of the kingdom. 
Notwithstanding the treachery of the late sove- 
reign, Alvarado would not deprive the royal race 
of Tanub of their inheritance ; he therefore raised 
Sequechul, the next in succession to Chignauiv- 
celut, to the throne. Juan de Leon Cardona was 
left in command of the forces stationed in the 
province, and Alvarado set out for Guatemala. 



CHAP. XXXVI. 

l^he Entry of the Spaniards into Guatemala^ the 
Capital of the King of the Kachiqueles. 

The kingdom of Quiche being finally sub- 



397 

jugated by the late defeat of the natives, Alvarado 
once more entered the city of Utatlan with his 
army^ and remained there 8 days, examining 
every part of it, and exploring the surrounding 
country, by sending detachments against some of 
the villages that had not yet formally submitted to 
his authority. In this interval he received am- 
bassadors from Sinacam, king of Guatemala, 
bringing a present of gold, with offers to acknow- 
ledge himself a vassal of the Spanish monarch, 
and to furnish troops and other necessaries for 
prosecuting the war. Alvarado received these 
messengers of peace with caresses, and every de- 
monstration of respect ; he requited them with 
gifts, and accepting the tenders of Sinacam, re- 
quested 2000 Indians to conduct his troops, and 
point out the best roads, which he was unac- 
quainted with. The monarch immediately sent 
the required number of Kachiquels all well 
armed, who cleared the roads, and attended the 
army with the greatest assiduity nntil they con- 
ducted it to the capital. Although the Spaniards 
were convoyed by the Indians sent by Sinacam, 
who acted officiously and submissively in all re- 
spects, and endeavoured to be useful on every 
occasion ; yet in passing through the Kachiquel 
territory, dead bodies of Indians, lacerated limbs 
and marks of carnage, were frequently observed ; 
troops of armed Indians were incessantly seen ; 
and as they had before narrowly escaped the 
treachery of the Quiches, they were not w^ithout 
suspicions of some sinister designs on the part of 
their present allies. With these doubts and fears 
as their companions, Alvarado and his people pur- 



398 

sued their march until they came in sight of Si- 
nacam, who was advancing to meet them in his 
litter, richly adorned with plumes of quezal's fea- 
thers, and ornaments of gold, accompanied by the 
principal oflScers of his court. Alvarado dis- 
mounted, and approached the king with courtesy 
and respect ; and on presenting him with a cu- 
rious piece of wrought silver, frankly declared his 
suspicions, saying ** Why do you endeavour to do 
me an injury, who come to render you a service?" 
When the faithful and unoffending Sinacam un- 
derstood from the interpreters the question ad- 
dressed to him by Alvarado, he assumed a serious 
look, and thanking him for the gift, replied with 
great mildness, " Let thy heart be at rest, great 
captain, son of the sun, and confide in my love ;" 
continuing his discourse, he assured the general, 
that all the preparations for war he had observed, 
were not directedagainst the Teules(or gods, as 
the Spaniards were called), but one of his own sub- 
jects who had rebelled, and was supported in his 
revolt by the kings of Quich6 and Zutugil ; that 
he had taken up arms only to protect his peace- 
able subjects, and maintain himself as an inde- 
pendent sovereign. The 2 chiefs, at the head 
of their respective suites, then continued their 
way towards Guatemala (not by the villages on 
the sea-shore, as related by a certain author^ but 
by the route of Itzapa; for in a title deed of some 
lands held by the Parramo Indians, and which 
were granted on the 10th November, 1577, speak- 
ing of a plain over which this road passes, there 
are these words, " Where it is said the camp of 
the Spaniards was pitched when Don Pedro de 



399 

Alvarado came to conquer this country") ; which 
they entered on the 25th of July, 1524, the festival 
of St. James the apostle. 

A doubt has arisen that is worthy of being ex- 
amined, viz. Which was the city of Guatemala, 
the capital of Kachiquel, where Sinacam received 
Alvarado and his troops ; and where was this 
great metropolis situated ? On this point the 3 
historians of Guatemala disagree ; Antonio Re- 
mesal, speaking of the city, says, (lib. 1, cap. 2,) 
that on the Spaniards arriving at the place called 
Alranlunca by the Mexican Indians, they built 
several huts for their habitations, and a larger one 
for a church : this work being concluded, they 
waited until St. James's day, which was near at 
hand, and then laid the foundation of the city, 
choosing the apostle as its patron and protector ; 
but this author does not, in any way, speak of 
the capital of the Kachiquel or Guatemalteca 
kingdom. 

The next, Francisco Vasquez, (lib. 1, cap. 1 
and 14,) agrees with Remesal in respect to the 
foundation of the metropolis at Almulunca; but 
relates the arrival of the Spaniards at Guatemala 
more in detail, and says, that from Utatlan, the 
capital of the Quiches, they proceeded to the 
capital of the Kachiquels, where Alvarado and 
his army were received with every mark of esteem 
and demonstration of joy, by the king, whom he 
calls Apotzotzil ; but in the books of the cabildo, 
the same monarch is named Sinacam. After re- 
maining several days at this place, and receiving 
the most respectful attentions from the Indian 
monarch, he set out again to undertake the con- 
quest of Atitan, proceeding by the coast of the 



400 

Pacific Ocean, subduing such of the nations as 
attempted to stay his progress, until he reached 
Almulunca, where he founded the city of Guate- 
mala; laying it down as a well ascertained fact, that 
the court of the Indian prince, where the general 
had spent some days to refresh his troops, was the 
great city of Tecpanguatemala. Vasquez sup- 
ports himself in the belief that this place was the 
capital of the Kachiquel kingdom ; in the first 
place^ because the natives gave it the name of 
Patinamit, the meaning of which word expressed 
in European language, is " the first city in the 
kingdom," or its capital. In the second place, he 
corroborates his opinion by the etymology of Tec- 
panguatemala, the other name of the same place, 
which, in the idiom of the natives, means "the 
royal house of Guatemala," also implying the 
court of their kings. In the third place, he ad- 
duces support of the correctness of his inference, 
from the general splendour of the city, and the 
magnificence of the palaces and public buildings, 
which is sufficiently demonstrated by the frag- 
ments and vestiges of these works, which the au- 
thor says he had seen in the place called by the 
Indians Ohertinamit, or the old city, as the court 
of Patinamit was at first established there. Finally, 
he is confirmed in his opinion by the style of forti- 
fication adopted in this place, which is very similar 
to that of Utatlan ; it being, as already mentioned, 
built on an eminence, surrounded by a deep ra- 
vine, admitting of only one very narrow entrance 
to the city. 

Francisco de Fuentes y Guzman (tom. 1, lib. 3, 
cap. 1,) takes a course diametrically opposite to 
the 2. preceding authors, by describing the city 



401 

of Guatemala, the court of the Kachiquel kings, 
as situated at the place now called St. Miguel 
Tzacualpa, which means the old town : he says, 
the Spaniards entered it on St. James's day ; not 
by the route of the sea-coast, but by the way of 
Itzapa; crossing the country now known as the 
valley of Panchoi, in which the village of Jocote- 
nango stands, and that he founded the city in 
1542 : he adds, that they were well received by 
the King Sinacam, who made them presents, and 
treated them with great festivity; that they pitched 
their camp there, and remained until the year just 
mentioned. This author adduces various reasons 
in support of his hypothesis ; the first is, that 
among the Spaniards it was the invariable practice 
to give to the cities founded by them, the names 
of existing places in Spain ; such as Truxillo and 
Valladolid in the province of Comayagua ; Leon, 
Granada, and Segovia, in that of Nicaragua ; Car- 
tago, Xeres, Ciudad Real, and New Saragossa, in 
other provinces; Durango, Guadalaxara, Ante- 
quera, Merida, and others in the kingdom of New- 
Spain. To cities which they found already es- 
tablished, they left the original names, as Mexico, 
Cuzco, TIaxcala, and many more ; whence he in- 
fers, that as Guatemala retains its original name, 
the Spaniards did not found it, but established 
themselves in it. 

His second reason is deduced from the etymo- 
logy of the name of Guatemala, which he derives 
from the word Coctecmalan, that means " milk 
wood," a peculiar tree found only at the Old 
City, and about a league round about it; and 
therefore assumes as a position, that the city must 
necessarily have been situated within that space: 

2 D 



402 

it could not however have been on the spot where 
Old Guatemala now stands, for this place has 
always been known by the name of Panchoi, 
which signifies the " great lake;" nor at the 
place called Ciudad Vieja, as that has always re- 
tained the appellation of Atmuliinca, or the '' water 
that springs up;" it is therefore necessary to lo- 
cate Guatemala, the capital of the Kachiquel In- 
dians, on the flank of the mountain called the 
Volcan de Agua, where stood the Spanish town 
that was destroyed in 1541, and where now is the 
little village of St. Miguel Tzacualpa. The name 
of this place strongly confirms such an opinion, 
as it means, in the idiom of the Indians, ** the old 
town," and consequently the ancient city of 
Guatemala stood there; by similitude, the ancient 
city of Tecpanguatemala was called Ohertinamit, 
which also means " the old town." 

Again, the third reason for this opinion is, that 
it is contrary to common sense to suppose with 
Vasquez, the first conquerors, after having taken 
up their quarters in Guatemala, would again quit 
it for the purpose of encamping in a wilderness ; 
because, if these men who came to receive the 
homage and obedience of Sinacam, were peace- 
ably received by that monarch, settled and feasted 
in his residence, why should they quit all these 
conveniences, at the hazard of incurring the ill 
will of the sovereign, to found a city, and build 
themselves habitations, when the capital of the 
kingdom was at their command ; to fatigue them- 
selves in search of every thing they wanted, when 
they could enjoy inexhaustible abundance in the 
city? If it be admitted, that when the Spaniards 
entered the kingdom in 1524, they established 



403 

themselves in the capital, it follows consequently 
that it was at Tzacualpa : for it appears in the 
books of the cabildo, that when they were con- 
templating a permanent establishment, all the 
situations where it was supposed convenient to 
settle in, were carefully surveyed ; and on the 
21st of November, 1527, it was resolved, in full 
council, that a removal was not advisable : also 
that it remained on the same spot where it had 
been marked out in 1527, until 1541, when it was 
destroyed, and that this spot was Tzacualpa ; 
for there the foundations of the city were seen 
in the time of Fuentes ; and there at the pre- 
sent period may be distinguished directly above 
the village of Tzacualpa, the deep channel made 
by the torrent of water, and detached masses of 
rock, by which the old town was overwhelmed : 
from these circumstances it may safely be affirmed, 
that the city of Guatemala, the capital of the Ka- 
chiquel kings, was situated where Tzacualpa now 
stands. 

This author certainly labours hard to support 
his hypothesis, and the arguments adduced give 
it great plausibility; but as they are not of suffix 
cient weight to remove every doubt, the matter 
must be left to the discretion of the reader, who 
will adopt that which may appear to him most ac- 
cordant with probability. As the etymology of the 
word Guatemala, a point in which there is a dis- 
crepancy between the different authors already 
noticed in an early part of this volume, has been 
relied upon as a proof, the author of the present 
work ventures to uphold with much deference, 
an opinion differing from all those who have 
touched upon the subject, and to derive it from 

2 D 2 



404 

the name of Juitemal, the first king of Guatemala^ 
relying upon the strong resemblance between the 2 
words; for it cannot be an overstrained inference, 
that what was at first called the kingdom of Jui- 
temal, mighty by an insensible corruption or soften- 
ing of the term, be afterward changed into the 
kingdom of Guatemala : he is warranted in the 
conjecture by similar variations, as, for instance, 
the place anciently called by the Indians Atmu- 
lunca, is now Almolonga; and the original name 
Zezontlatl, has yielded to the more harmonious 
wordZonzonate. It was a practice observed among 
the native inhabitants, to call kingdoms and towns 
by the name of the monarchs or chiefs who go- 
verned them : thus the natives of the kingdom 
of Utatlanwere called Quiches, from Nimaquiche, 
who led them from Tula to that kingdom ; the 
Kachiquels, from the kingdom of Kachiqueleh ; 
Zutugiles from Zutugileh, In like manner, the 
capital of Rabinaleb, cacique of Verapaz, was 
called Rabinal; even the Spaniards have followed 
the same nomenclature, by giving the name Nica- 
ragua to the territory of the cacique Nicaragua,and 
Nicoya to the possession of the cacique Nicoya. 



CHAP. XXXVII. 



Of the different Positions of the City of Guate- 
mala under the Dominion of the Spaniards, 

Whether it was in the little town that the 
Spaniards at first built between the 2 volcanoes, 
as some writers think, or in the capital of 
King Sinacam, nearly on the same spot, as main- 
tained by others, that they fixed their quarters; 



405 

it is certain the election was only provisionally 
made, until they could complete the necessary 
surveys, and choose^ after careful examination, a 
spot that would present all the advantages they 
desired, for founding the metropolis of their 
new kingdom. During the 3 years that elapsed 
from their arrival, to the formal establishment of 
the city at Tzacualpa, there occurred frequent 
discussions among them upon the good and bad 
qualities of places, the proximity of materials for 
buildings, and the climate that would be most 
conducive to the general health. The subject 
having been repeatedly debated in private, was 
at last brought before a council on the 28th of 
October, 1527. At this congress, the lieutenant- 
governor George de Alvarado, the alcaldes, and 
regidors, delivered their opinions, that it was es- 
sential to the service of the king, as well as to the 
policy and good government of the country, that 
the city of St, Jago de Guatemala should be esta- 
blished with all the necessary formalities; and 
that a proper situation should be chosen in which 
all the local advantages required for the capital 
of a kingdom would be combined. From that 
day researches were carried on with greater zeal 
than before, and as there were almost as many 
places proposed, as there were individuals to give 
a vote, it was determined the question of choice 
should be limited to 2 ; viz, the one which they 
then inhabited, and with which they had as yet 
no cause to be dissatisfied ; and another, called 
Tianguecilloon the plain of Chimaltenango, where 
there was an abundant spring, the waters of which 
flowed close by the village and thence to Coma- 
iapan. 



4Q6 

To decide this point, an open cabildo, composed 
of the members of the administration, and other 
persons, Hidalgos, and good men of the city, was 
held on the 21st of November, 1527, under the 
presidency of George de Alvarado, when each 
individual having taken an oath to vote according 
to his conscience, \\ithout partiality or prejudice ; 
Hernando de Alvarado said, that having examined 
both situations carefully, he was of opinion Tian- 
guecillo should be preferred, and minutely de- 
tailed his reasons for the preference; he was 
followed by Eugenio de Moscoso, the king's trea- 
surer, and others who supported his choice. 
Gonzalo de Oballe, a knight of Salamanca, was 
on the other side, an advocate for the city's re- 
maining where they were then settled, and de- 
livered in writing the arguments by which he 
supported his vote : he was seconded by the votes 
of Juan Godinez, Pedro Portocarrero, Juan Perez 
Dardon, and the greater part of the members. 
On the following day, George de Alvarado, at- 
tended by the alcalde, Oballe, the regidors, and 
inhabitants went to the chosen spot, he then com- 
manded the secretary to draw up a process of the 
following tenor, " I, by virtue of the powers in- 
vested in me by his majesty's governors, with the 
consent and advice of the alcaldes and regidors 
here present, do establish and found here, on this 
spot, the city of St. Jago ; which said city is the 
boundary of the province of Guatemala." He 
next ordered the great square and the place for 
the church to be marked out, also the hospital of 
La Misericordia, the chapel of the Virgen de los 
Remedios, the fortress, the town house, and the 
prison : he concluded by taking possession, in the 



407 

kings name, of the city, the province, and the ad- 
joining districts. Authors who have written on 
the affairs of this kingdom, do not certainly agree 
in this point of its history, each relating the event 
according to the opinion given by him, relative to 
the situation of the city under its native governors; 
therefore, those who assert that the Spaniards 
established themselves provisionally in Almo- 
longa, maintain that the new city was traced out 
on an adjoining site towards the west, at the 
place called by the natives Tzacualpa ; so that 
the first town built in Almolonga remained as a 
suburb of the new city : but those who supposed 
the Spaniards fixed their head-quarters in Sina- 
cam's capital, or the Guatemala of the Indians, 
in Tzacualpa, contend that the city of St. Jago de 
Guatemala was marked out on the ground occu- 
pied by the Indian capital. On this spot it re- 
mained from November, 1527, the period of its 
formal foundation, until November, 1542, when 
the present city of Old Guatemala was planned. 

The first city had but little chance of being ad- 
vanced to a prosperous condition, for in less than 
14 years after the foundation was laid, namely, 
on the 11th of September, 1541, it was ruined by 
the inundation of a dreadful torrent of w-ater that 
suddenly descended from the volcano, sweeping 
before it immense masses of rock, by which 
many of the buildings were overwhelmed, and 
all the others much injured. By this disaster, 
the old city, in its material character, was levelled 
to the ground ; and in a political sense was de- 
prived of its chief, and greatly diminished in the 
number of its inhabitants, many of whom perished 
under the ruins, particularly Dona Beatriz de la 



.408 

Cueba, widow of Pedro de Alvarado, who had 
been elected governess by the ayuntamiento. 
In this melancholy position of affairs, the inhabit- 
ants considered of the most expedient means to 
repair the injuries they had sustained. They 
first elected a governor, and then deliberated on 
the best method of securing themselves from fu- 
ture misfortunes by the volcano. A council was 
held on the 17th of September, of the same year, 
in which the members, assisted by the assessor, 
Don Bias Cota, came to a resolution, *' That the 
licentiate, Don Francisco de la Cueba, should re- 
sign the staff of lieutenant-governor, but without 
prejudice to any right he might possess." This 
resolution being complied with, on the following 
day, the 18th, the council was resumed, when 
Don Francisco Marroquin, and the licentiate, 
Francisco dela Cueba, were chosen governors ad 
interim, and the election made pubhc by procla- 
mation. The next subject that came under con- 
sideration was the removal of the city from the 
side of the mountain, but while they were holding 
a meeting in the cathedral to discuss this point, 
several shocks of earthquake were felt in quick 
succession; and as the business under delibera- 
tion required more mature reflection than could 
then be given to it, from the apprehensions enter- 
tained that the church would be thrown down, 
and crush the people assembled in it, the con- 
ference was adjourned. 

On the 27th of September, another council (as 
appears in the records relating to the second 
foundation, that are preserved in the archives of 
the cabildo) was held, and attended by the go- 
vernor, the other members, and 43 of the inhabit- 



409 

ants, altogether amounting to 55 votes. The 
question proposed for debate was, whether, for 
the perpetuity of the general government, and for 
better maintaining peace in the provinces, it would 
be most advisable that the city should be rebuilt 
on the same site, or that another situation should 
be chosen ? On collecting the votes, 43 were in 
favour of a removal, 5 against it, and 7 indifferent 
as to one measure or the other. The removal 
being carried in the affirmative, the next irapor- 
tant question was, in what situation shall the 
new city be built? To decide this point satisfac- 
torily, it was determined, the 2 alcaldes, and 11 
other persons chosen from among the members 
of the assembly, should be deputed to examine 
and survey proper situations ; which being done, 
they were to make a report to the governors and 
constituted authoriti^^ In 2 days the deputa- 
tion executed its commission, and drew up a re- 
port, in which they unanimously concurred, that 
the most eligible situation for the new capital 
would be the valley of Tianguecillo, on the plains 
of Chimaltenango. The determination of this 
point being an affair of great public moment, 
it was reserved for a general congress con- 
voked on the 2d of October. Seventy-eight per- 
sons met in this assembly, who, after taking an 
oath to deliver their opinions uninfluenced by fa- 
vour or affection, fear or interest, came to a divi- 
sion, when there appeared to be 29 voices in fa- 
vour of the valley of Alotenango, and 49 for that 
of Chimaltenango. In consequence of this majo- 
rity, the governors issued an edict, commanding 
the new city to be founded in the valley of Tian- 
guecillo ; and that all persons, who were holders 



410 

of ground in the ruined city, should repair to the 
newly chosen spot, where they would receive al- 
lotments proportioned to their former possessions. 
In this conjuncture, Juan Bautista Antonelli, 
an engineer employed by the king, with instruc- 
tions from the supreme council, to form plans for 
building cities and towns, and to make choice of 
secure and well-sheltered ports, with good anchor- 
age, on the northern coast of the kingdom, ar- 
rived at Guatemala. Having examined, by order 
of the governors, the situations most appropriate 
for the new city, he reported to the council that 
he had surveyed, with great care and attention, 
the valleys of Las Vacas, Chimaltenango, Alote- 
nango, Milpasde Luiz de Alvarado, and of Pedro 
Gonzalez Naxera, and the valley of Tuerto or 
Panchoi; in all of which, except the last, so 
many deficiencies were obYious, that the city, if 
built in either of them, would not be likely to 
prosper: he enumerated the inconveniencies pe- 
culiar to each situation, and concluded by stating 
his opinion, that the valley of Panchoi was the 
only place suitable for the objectin view ; because 
the city would be there removed from all danger 
of another inundation from the volcano, and be 
sheltered by the ridge of mountains on the north. 
There was abundance of excellent water, that de- 
scending from the mountains, runs through the 
valley almost level with the surface of the soil, 
and might therefore be conducted by canals to 
all parts with the greatest ease ; that as there w^ere 
no inequalities of ground, the regular formation 
of squares and streets could not be interrupted ; 
and that how much soever it might be found ne- 
cessary to increase the extent of it, in future times, 



411 

there would be ample space, even to a circumfe- 
rence of 8 or 9 leagues ; that in all seasons it 
would enjoy the benefit of the sun, and of a soil 
so fertile as to be covered with herbage through- 
out the year, affording excellent pasturage for 
flocks and herds ; that provisions were inexhausti« 
bly abundant ; that there were many villages 
from which the capital might draw all sorts of 
supplies ; that materials for making bricks and 
tiles were close at hand ; and that, at the distance 
of 2 or 3 miles, there were quarries in the moun- 
tains, with plenty of lime and gypsum equally 
near. For these reasons, he affirmed, that the 
valley of Tuerto ought to be preferred to every 
other situation for the city of St. Jago. 

These arguments appeared to the governors 
and others so little liable to be impugned, the 
principles on which they were founded being so 
notorious, that they were forced to yield assent 
to them ; and being stimulated by the clamours 
of the inhabitants, they resolved the city should 
be immediately marked out in the valley of 
Tuerto : on this spot the city of Old Guatemala 
how stands. The council, in which this decision 
was made, took place on the 22d of October, 
1541 ; and such was the zeal of the people in car- 
rying on the work, that by May, 1542, a great 
part of the city was inhabited, although the com- 
plete demarcation of it was not finished before 
the 21st of November, 1542. Here then, in the 
valley of Tuerto or Panchoi, stood the capital of 
the kingdom, until the year 1776, when it was 
transferred to the valley of Las Vacas, in con- 
sequence of the devastation occasioned by the 
earthquake in 1773. 



418 

It is necessary to introduce in this place one 
observation, namely, that although the shocks on 
the 29th of June, 1773, were violent in the ex- 
treme, and the ruin caused by them of a most 
frightful nature, yet neither the one nor the other 
was of that appalling character represented in two 
works printed at Mexico in 1774. The writers 
of these two narratives have drasvn a picture of 
this event so exaggerated and over-coloured, that 
those who had the misfortune to be witnesses of 
the reality, dreadful as it was, are unable to trace 
the event from such descriptions of it. In these 
narratives the most excursive genius would be 
unable to descry any approach to veracity. That 
the reader may be enabled to form an opinion for 
himself, one extract from each will suffice. The 
first writer, having given a minute detail of the la- 
bours endured in finding out and examining va- 
rious situations for a new capital, gives an account 
of the state of Guatemala after the earthquake, 
extracted from the official reports of the injuries 
sustained. In this relation, at page 12, occurs 
the following sentence : " In the convent of Las 
Ninas de la Presentacion," says the engineer, '^ the 
church was split into four parts, and the vaults 
entirely destroyed." Unfortunately for the pre- 
cision of this engineer's account, there are now 
many surviving witnesses that this church never 
had any vaults : that the earthquake should be 
accused of destroying that which never had ex- 
istence, is doing it a manifest injustice. In the 
second work, one of the most clumsy and ill- 
contrived fables ever yet invented, is given in 
very pompous terms. In pages 30 and 31, it is 
said, " Persons of the greatest authority, upon 



413 

whose veracity no suspicion can rest, are able to 
bear testimony, that on the evening of this formi- 
dable and ruinous earthquake, they saw the gi- 
gantic Volcan de Agua divided into 2 parts 'by 
the violence of its impulse; that the divisions 
were palpably separated from each other; but by 
the prolongation of the shock, they were after- 
ward restored to their former situations, and 
again firmly united." A phenomenon of this ex- 
traordinary character, a novelty so stupendous, 
was unperceived by thousands of persons now 
living, who were indeed spectators of the lament- 
able catastrophe that afflicted their country ; but 
none of them saw this portentous aperture; no 
one was aware of this tremendous separation and 
reintegration : in fact, when this extraordinary 
narration made its appearance, they were as un- 
conscious of the fact as if it had happened at Ve- 
suvius or Hecla. It is, in fact, unnecessary to 
ask, how a phenomenon, that, had it occurred, 
must have been palpable to the senses of every 
one, should have been noticed only by those " per- 
sons of the greatest authority," who related it to 
the author : or is it probable, that these same per- 
sons, ''upon whose veracity no suspicion can rest," 
should have communicated so wonderful an event 
to that writer only, and unrelentiogly have con- 
demned themselves to keep the wonder a secret 
from every other person, and that too at a time 
when it was thought meritorious to make known 
and exaggerate every thing likely to be adverse to 
the unfortunate place? These reflections have not 
been elicited by any desire to cast an odium upon 
the writers of the works in question ; but as the 
narratives, containing such circumstantial, and, as 



414 

they are called, authentic details, have been 
printed and circulated, the author of the present 
history has thought himself bound to notice them ; 
for, as in the course of his work no mention is 
otherwise made of such wonderful occurrence^, 
he might be blamed for omitting an account of 
so great a geological prodigy as the sundering 
and reunion of an immense mountain. 

The city of Guatemala, correctly speaking, 
was greatly injured by the earthquake of 1773, 
but was not so generally dilapidated as it ap- 
peared to the terrified, or it may perhaps be said, 
to the interested imaginations of architects, engi- 
neers, and notaries. Great damage was certainly 
done in some quarters, particularly in those on 
elevated situations, as La Candelaria, St. Do- 
mingo, Chipilapa, and part of St. Sebastian: in 
the centre of the city some houses were destroyed, 
but more remained unhurt, or injured only in a 
slight degree, as they sufficiently shew at this 
day : in the lower quarters of St. Francisco, Tor- 
tuguero, Chajon, and others, the effect upon the 
buildings was very slight. As to the most sump- 
tuous buildings and public works, viz, the cathe- 
dral, with other churches, the palaces and con- 
vents, for the most part it would have been neces- 
sary to pull them down entirely ; on the other 
hand, as it was a fact well known from experience, 
that since the Spaniards first settled in that valley, 
either at Tzacualpa or Panchoi, a term of 50 
years had never elapsed without the city's suf- 
fering some injury ; it appeared most desirable 
to remove the capital once more, althaugh at 
much greater expense, than to rebuild it in the 
same situation. The latter alternative would 



415 

have been much easier, and less costly^ but this 
would have been labouring upon a calculation of 
only 30 or 40 years' duration of the work ; and by 
placing it on another spot, its permanence might 
fairly be anticipated for a much longer term. 
This kind of reasoning was strengthened by the 
circumstance, that when the removal of the ca- 
pital was in agitation, on account of the earth- 
quake on the 29th of September, 1717, which 
was said to have been much less disastrous than 
the last, the subject was referred to the viceroy 
of New Spain, who gave his opinion in favour of 
the measure, by a dispatch received on the 4th 
of December, in the same year ; but it was not 
then carried into effect. Now, however, when 
the devastation was greater than it ever had been 
before, the opinion of the viceroy, remote both as 
to time and place, was again brought forward in 
aid of the transfer. 

A meeting of the principal inhabitants was held 
on the 4th and 5th of August, 1773, in which the 
removal was resolved, subject to the king's ap- 
probation. The next consideration was the choice 
of a place, and as there was a great diversity of 
opinion on this point, it was agreed to take a tem- 
porary station at the little village called Hermita, 
contiguous to the valley of Las Vacas, while the 
valleys of Jalapa, Jumai, and any other which 
might be deemed convenient, could be duly exa- 
mined. On the 9th of August, another meeting 
was held to appoint commissioners for surveying 
the proposed situations, and ascertainirig their 
advantages or disadvantages, when the senior 
oidor, Don Juan Gonzalez Bustillo, was ap- 
pointed by the governor; the prebends, Dr. Juan 



416 

Gonzalez Batrez, and Dr. Juan Antonio Dighero, 
by the archbishop; the regidor, Don Francisco 
Chaniorra, and the licentiate, Juan Manuel Ze- 
laya, by the secular cabildo. On the 19th of 
August, these commissioners, accompanied by 
Bernardo Ramerez, and other persons, set out 
on their mission : they carefully examined the 
valleys of Jumai and Jalapa, according to the 
terms of their instructions, and returned to the 
Hermita. At the latter place their labours were 
resumed, and performed with more precision, as 
they were exposed to the view of a greater num- 
ber of observers, ancient inhabitants of the valley, 
as well as physicians, engineers, and architects, 
each giving the preference to that spot where his 
own profession appeared most likely to be inte- 
rested. These and other necessary services be- 
ing completed, mandates were issued to the arch- 
bishop, religious communities, corporations^ and 
others concerned, for a general meeting to be 
held on the 10th of January, 1774. The assem- 
bly met at the temporary establishment, and the 
business was opened. The two following days 
were occupied in reading the reports made on the 
subject ; this being finished, an edict of the go- 
vernor, dated the 12th, was then made public, in 
which both the seculars and regidors were ex- 
horted to deliver their opinions without restraint, 
and according to their consciences, upon the two 
following points : 1st, Whether it would be con- 
venient to rebuild the city of Guatemala upon its 
present site, or any of the surrounding lands? 
Or, 2dly, in case of transferring the capital, which 
will be the most advantageous position, the valley 
of Jalapa, or the valley of Las Vacas ? The 14th 



417 

being appointed for the final decision, mass was 
performed before the members, who then returned 
to the council-chamber, and proceeded to deliver 
their votes on the first question, when there ap- 
peared 4 in favour of rebuilding, and 75 for the 
removal. The second question was carried una- 
nimously, that it would be more advantageous to 
settle in the valley of Las Vacas, than in that of 
Jalapa. 

As the extent of this valley presented several 
appropriate spots, the governor ordered the com- 
missioners to survey them all. In compliance 
with this command, they examined the plains 
called La Culebra, Fiedraparada, El Rodeo, 
and El Naranjo : that service being completed, re- 
ports were passed to the royal chancery for their 
deliberation ; the members composing this body 
being of opinion, that the plain of El Rodeo was, 
under all circumstances, to be preferred, the go- 
vernor confirmed their decision, by an edict, on 
the 24th of May, 1774. Matters being in this 
state, the new fiscal of the royal audiencia, Don 
Jos6 Sistu6, arrived at Guatemala, and once 
more agitated the question, whether the plain of 
La Virgen would not be preferable to El Rodeo 
for the capital : this plain was therefore surveyed, 
and as it seemed to oflPer greater advantages than 
El Rodeo, the former edict was revoked, and a 
new decree, ordering the city to be transferred to 
the plain of La Virgen, was issued. A report 
was made to the king of all that had been done, 
and his majesty was pleased to signify his royal 
pleasure, that the new city should be built on Ihe 
plain of La Virgen, contiguous to the temporary 
establishment in the village of La Hermita, as 

2 E 



418 

appears by a decree, dated July 21^ 1775. In 
virtue of these dispositions, theayuntamiento took 
possession on the 1st of January, 1776; the uni- 
versity of St. Carlos removed thither in Novem- 
ber, 1777. On the 22d of November, 1779, di- 
vine service was performed, for the first time, in 
the temporary cathedral ; and in succession, the 
different parishes, convents, and churches, were 
taken possession of as fast as circumstances would 
permit. 

Some private individuals, many artisans, and a 
great part of the people, supposing, and, as it 
seems, not without reason, that the royal plea- 
sure for removing the capital w^as intended as a 
matter of favour to the whole community, but not 
to force them to abandon the dwellings and con- 
veniencies they possessed in Old Guatemala, and 
seek habitations in the new capital, expected to 
remain in the quiet enjoyment of their homes. 
The governors of the kingdom put a very different 
construction upon the royal edict, and considered 
the translation of the capital, not as a matter of 
favour, but as a mandate for the total abandon- 
ment of the old city ; they were therefore in- 
flexible in forcing the inhabitants to quit the pro- 
scribed soil. These, though grieved at resigning 
all they possessed in their old domicile, were un- 
willing to have it supposed they would oppose 
the royal pleasure, and reluctantly quitted their 
abodes ; some repaired to the new city, others 
retired to the neighbouring villages, so that on 
the 30th of June, 1779, Old Guatemala, in com- 
pliance with the governor's positive orders, from 
being the busy haunt of men, was transformed into 
a dreary solitude ; the inhabitants thereby giving 



419 

a most heroic proof of obedience and submission 
to their governors.^ The proscribed city remain- 
ed in this state, until many of its former occupants, 
forced by necessity, covertly resumed their an- 
cient abodes ; and it has by degrees again become 
peopled, and is now occupied by more than 8000 
inhabitants. 



CHAP. XXXVIII. 

Of the Submission of the Zutugil Indians 
to the Spaniards. 

While Pedro de Alvarado remained with his 
army in Sinacam's capital, the conversations with 
that monarch frequently turned on the subject of 
the unjust proceedings of his relation, the king of 
Atitan, chief of the Zutugiles, who had assisted the 
cacique Acpocaquil in seizing some of the most 
flourishing parts of his kingdom ; these, according 
to Vasquez, were Tecpanatitlan and its territory; 
but according to Fuentes, Tecpanguatemala and 
its dependencies. Sinacam adduced as a proof of 

* The cruel and tyrannical proclamation issued by Don Ma- 
tias de Galvez, president of the royal audiencia, in the month 
of June, 1779, for the desertion of Old Guatemala, deserves to 
be made generally known. He commanded that every inhabit- 
ant should quit the city within a prescribed (very small) num- 
ber of days ; and that from the date of the proclamation, no 
artificer should there exercise his trade, without being liable to 
very severe penalties. Until the publication of this order, it 
was a thing unheard of in any civilized country, that a man 
should be prohibited from supporting his family by the honest 
labour of his hands, at his settled abode. In consequence, 
many of these poor people were forced to the hard necessity of 
quitting the place, or of committing robberies to afford suste- 
nance to those dependant upon them ; yet notwithstanding the 
monstrous severity of the mandate, it was allowed to have its 
full effect. 

2 E 2 



420 

the king of Atitan's haughty character, that al- 
though he was well acquainted with the splendid 
victories of Tonaltiuh (Alvarado) and his Teules 
(the Spaniards), he had not appeared to make his 
submission to the powerful monarch of Castile; 
because he confided in the great numbers of well- 
disciplined troops, and in the vast strength of his 
capital. The main object of the Spaniards being 
to subjugate the whole country, little persuasion 
was required for inducing them to undertake this 
campaign ; but previous to commencing opera- 
tions, Alvarado sent persons to reconnoitre the 
situation, the fortifications, and other circum- 
stances of Atitan (the capital). When the emis- 
saries returned with their information, the general 
was well aware the enterprise would be one of 
great difficulty ; being also fearful that the ex- 
ample of these Indians might induce some of the 
nations already subdued, to endeavour to throw 
off his yoke, he at first tried gentle means to ac- 
complish his object, and sent an embassy to the 
chief of the Zutugiles, with an offer of peace and 
friendship on the part of the Spaniards ; 3 times 
he repeated the invitations, but they were as often 
rejected, and the messengers treated with asperity 
and unequivocal marks of indignation. 

These successive repulses irritated Alvarado, 
and stimulated him to commence the campaign. 
He left a sufficient garrison for the protection of 
Guatemala, and began his march for Atitan ; his 
force consisting of 40 horse, 100 infantry, and 
2000 Guatemaltecan Indians, under his own im- 
mediate command. He pursued his route by 
easy marches, finding good and secure quarters 
for his troops, being well supplied with provision, 



421 

and with plenty of forage for fiis horses : on ar- 
riving in the environs of Atitan, he once more so- 
licited the Zutngiles to avoid the necessity of nii- 
Jitary operations ; they were however fixed in the 
determination not to submit ; and not only took 
arms against the ambassadors, but made a de- 
monstration of attacking the army with a great 
force. In this interval, the Spaniards perceived a 
strong body of the enemy posted on a rocky emi- 
nence by the lake, at no great distance from them ; 
and carefully considering, that to leave this na- 
tural fortress so well garrisoned in their rear, 
might entail very serious consequences upon them, 
they advanced to the margin of the lake, and pro- 
voked the enemy, by repeated discharges from 
the cross-bows, which killing some men, irritated 
the others so much, that they rushed from the 
post, and attacked the Spaniards, who, after a 
long and obstinate fight, were doubtful of being 
able to obtain a victory, until they were relieved 
by the cavalry coming to their assistance, and fu- 
riously attacking the Indians, gave the infantry 
an opportunity of uniting their detachments ; after 
which they forced the enemy to retire within their 
fortifications. 

During the action the Guatemaltecan Indians 
seized some of the enemy's boats, which were of 
great service; for the Indians throwing themselves 
into the water, and the infantry advancing in the 
boats, they gained a footing upon a narrow cause- 
way, soon dislodged the besieged, and obtained 
possession of the eminence ; the Atitans made se- 
veral bold attempts to recover their post, but were 
always repulsed by the fire of the musketry ; 
when losing all hopes of victory, they plunged into 



422 ■ 

the water, and swam to a little island, leaving 
many killed and wounded behind them ; they 
were pursued by the victors, and after maintain- 
ing an obstinate conflict on the island, were at 
last obliged to submit. 

As soon as the Spaniards had completed this 
triumph, they landed their prisoners, and pro- 
ceeded to ravage the villages on the banks of the 
lake; these they found totally abandoned, and 
on the following day the whole army marched 
against Atitan. The troops met with no impedi- 
ments in their way, and arriving before the place, 
found it destroyed and abandoned; an event but 
little expected from the obstinate bravery of its 
defenders. Alvarado ordered the cavalry to 
scour the surrounding country, as he suspected 
this retreat to be only a feint to throw him off his 
guard ; the cavalry returned without discovering 
any indications of an ambush, or other circum- 
stance of suspicion, and bringing in 2 caciques 
whom they had taken prisoners. The general 
made use of these persons to send another mes- 
sage to the king and the chiefs, inviting them to 
accept terms of peace and submission to the king 
of Spain, and return to their dwellings; promising 
to deliver up all their countrymen, who were his 
prisoners, and that they should receive kind and 
honourable treatment from him ; but if they per- 
sisted in their opposition, he declared he would 
inflict the same species of hostilities upon them 
as he had done upon those of Utatlan. The late 
defeats had greatly lowered the haughty tone of 
the Zutugiles, and after endeavouring to -colour 
their submission with some specious pretext, the 
king and the principal caciques returned the fol- 



423 

lowing answer : " Since the time when King Axi- 
quat established this kingdom, the neighbouring 
kings have vainly endeavoured to subdue it by 
their arms; but I, admirii^g the great worth and 
power of the Spaniards, well knowing their 
triumphs and their bravery, am desirous, with 
my caciques, and the principal persons of my 
kingdom, to be their friend, and to pay obedience 
to so great a monarch as the emperor of Castile, 
who has such valiant and pow^erful subjects." 
The joy and satisfaction of the Spanish army were 
very great, at seeing an enterprise so arduous, 
consummated without the necessity of resorting to 
more sanguinary operations ; and the pleasure 
was greatly heightened by a continuation of pro- 
sperity, arising from the fame of their recent vic- 
tory ; for all the places surrounding the lake sent 
presents of gold and mantles, and submitted to 
their authority. Alvarado received these new 
subjects with all the kindness and conciliation 
peculiar to him, and by means of his interpreter, 
pointed out the benefits they would derive from a 
faithful adherence to their allegiance to the king 
of Spain, and by acquiring a knowledge of the 
truths of the Christian religion. The general then 
resolving to return to Guatemala, to preserve the 
peace of that district, ordered a good fortress 
to be built, in which he left 418 men, under the 
command of Hector de Chaves, and Alonzo del 
Pulgar. From that period, the Zutugiles have re- 
mained faithful subjects of the Spaniards, even 
during the rebellion of the Quiches and the Ka- 
chiqueles. 



424 

CHAP. XXXIX. 

The Conquest of the Valley of Sacatepeqves, 

Although Sinacam spontaneously submitted 
to Alvarado, and swore allegiance to the Emperor 
Charles the Fifth, all the places under his govern- 
ment were not disposed to follow the example of 
their monarch ; several of thera^ and particularly 
those in the valley of Sacatepeques, not only re- 
fused to yield to the Spaniards, but shook off the 
authority of their natural sovereign, and declared 
themselves free and independent. (Kachiquel 
MS. fol. 5.) The audacity of these Indians did 
not stop here, for they began to infest the lands 
of those villages and towns that had been placed 
under the Spanish authority, and carried off many 
of the women and children that were employed in 
looking after the milpas, or fields of maize, and 
other plantations, and sacrificed the hearts of the 
latter to their idols. Mortified by these vexa- 
tions, the caciques of Xinaco, Sumpango, and 
some other places, sent messengers to the offend- 
ers, saying, that as they were now under the pro- 
tection of men who were children of the sun (for 
so they called the Spaniards), if they received 
any insults or farther injuries, they would com- 
plain to their friends the children of the sun, who 
killed and wounded their enemies with thunder ; 
but if, on the other hand, they would cease from 
ho&tilities, and be willing to obey the Spaniards, 
the caciques would engage to obtain the friend- 
ship of these children of the sun for them. This 
message was so ill received by the independents. 



425 

that they put all the messengers to death, except 
one, whom they sent back to tell the caciques, 
that they might now request their new friends, the 
children of the sun, to bring their tatoques, or 
ambassadors, to life again ; that for themselves 
they scorned to submit to an unknown people, 
and would destroy all the villages of the caciques 
before the allies, whom they so much relied upon, 
could arrive to their assistance. They imme- 
diately set about putting these threats in execu- 
tion, by attacking with a powerful force the vil- 
lages that had submitted ; the inhabitants quickly 
flew to arms, and resolved to defend themselves to 
the last extremity ; instantly sending off advice of 
the war to Guatemala. These events took place 
in the month of January, 1525, or, according to 
the Indian account, in the time of tapixque, or the 
maize harvest ; at this period Alvarado was en- 
gaged in the Atitlan war against thePipiles ; but 
the commandant who remained in Guatemala, 
sent him intelligence of what had happened ; and 
without waiting for orders, dispatched 1000 Gua- 
temaltecans with 10 musketeers as their officers, 
under the command of Antonio de Salazar, a cap- 
tain of great experience and well known bravery, 
to the assistance of their Indian friends. 

These troops left Guatemala with the greatest 
expedition, and by forced marches reached the 
scene of action just when the contending Indians 
had begun to skirmish. Notwithstanding the 
arrival of this reinforcement, the Sacatapeques 
continued firm, maintained the conflict with great 
bravery, and although they lost n)any men, their 
places were instantly filled by fresh combatants. 
On the third day after hostilities had commenced. 



426 

the Spaniards received a very seasonable rein- 
forcement of 10 musketeers, 20 cuirassiers, and 
200 Tlascaltecan and Mexican Indians, sent by 
Alvarado, who by this time had terminated his 
campaign against Atitlan. The Sacatapeques 
soon suffered so many defeats, that, numerous 
and courageous as they were, both their valour 
and their troops sensibly decreased, and they be- 
gan to think of submitting. At this crisis, an old 
Indian called Choboloc, a man of mean birth, but 
clear understanding, vv'as introduced to the ca- 
ciques and principal leaders ; this man either 
from curiosity, or an inclination to observe the 
military movements, had ascended an eminence 
whence he saw, and carefully noticed, the dif- 
ferent manners in which the Indians and Spa- 
niards fought; he therefore proposed to the chiefs, 
that at dawn on the following day, they should 
form their troops into squadrons of a 1000 men 
each ; that the first squadron should engage 
for a short time, and then retire ; the post quitted 
by the first, was to be taken up by the second^ 
and the action so kept up by each squadron in 
succession; the retiring body always forming in 
the rear of the preceding one ; for he had observ- 
ed that the Teules never attacked with their whole 
force at once, but by divisions one after the other. 
The Sacatapeques by adopting this plan, main- 
tained the fight the whole of the fifth day, and the 
Spaniards suffered considerably. Early on the 
morning of the 6th, the latter appeared in the field, 
apparently much weakened, and in confusion ; 
the enemy observed this, and thinking themselves 
secure of victory, immediately commenced an at- 
tack, which was avoided by a retreat towards 



427 

some broken gTOund ; the Indians supposing their 
success complete, followed in disorder, and when 
entangled in the defiles and thickets, were attack- 
ed by a strong body placed in ambush, and press- 
ed so closely, that their delusive hopes and their 
courage vanished together, and they fled in the 
greatest dismay, leaving a great number of killed 
and prisoners behind; among the latter many 
caciques and principal leaders : all the villages in 
the valley of Sacatepeques then surrendered to the 
victors. Experience had taught Alvarado to dis- 
trust the Indians ; and therefore in every large 
town a military force was stationed to keep it in 
awe ; in that of Sacatepeques, 10 Spaniards and 
140 Tlascaltecans were left under the command 
of Diego de Alvarado. 



CHAP. XL. 

The Capture of the Fortress of Mixco. 

It has been already mentioned that Mixco, a 
strong city belonging to the Pocoman Indians, 
was situated on the eminence of an almost per- 
pendicular rock that was impregnable, there being 
but a narrow steep approach to it, admitting only 
one man abreast ; so that a very small force at the 
top might, by rolling down large stones, defend it 
against a powerful body ; as a single file of men 
would be exposed to inevitable destruction by 
advancing up so confined and menacing a pass, if 
a piece of the rock were put in motion against 
it. The Spaniards had been accustomed to un- 
dertake such arduous enterprises, that dangers 
and difficulties onlv served to stimulate their con- 



428 

rage ; and as it was now well known that many 
other nations, following the example of the Mix- 
quefios, had fortified themselves in similar posi- 
tions ; Alvarado sent his brother Gonzalo with 2 
companies of infantry and 1 of cuirassiers, com- 
manded by Alonzo de Oxedo, Luis de Bivar, and 
Hernando de Chaves, to besiege Mixco, until he 
could take command of the operations in person. 
On arriving before the place, it was carefully re- 
connoitred by the officers, who convinced them- 
selves that there was no other approach to it, than 
the one just described ; and being somewhat in- 
timidated by the losses they sustained from the 
stones and arrows discharged upon them by the 
enemy, they found themselves involved in difficul- 
ties, that to them seemed insurmountable, when 
Pedro de Alvarado arrived at the camp. This 
experienced officer perceived at once the eminent 
risks the army would be exposed to in prosecut- 
ing the siege ; but in a conference with his officers, 
they were unanimously of opinion that it would 
be detrimental to the reputation of their arms, 
were they to be unsuccessful in the enterprise they 
had undertaken ; because it would induce other 
nations to persevere in fortifying themselves in the 
same manner ; and even those who were already 
subdued, might, by such an example, be prompted 
to rebel and intrench themselves in similar posi- 
tions ; he resolved for these reasons to prosecute 
the siege. 

He determined to make an attack upon the 
place without delay, and to facilitate his plan, 
caused a report to be spread, that the intention 
was to make an escalade at a point where there 
was no path, and where the rock was not so lofty : 



429 

it was conjectured that the enemy would direct 
their whole force to the point menaced, and leave 
the approach by the narrow path undefended ; 
the stratagem did not succeed, for the besieged 
being very numerous, and not entirely unacquaint- 
ed with such feints, took care to guard both 
points, from which they poured down great quan- 
tities of stones and poisoned arrows that did 
much injury to the assailants : Alvarado fearing a 
total failure, ordered a retreat to his camp. In 
this situation the Spaniards were attacked with 
great fury by the Chignautecos, who were allies of 
theMixquefios: (Xecul MS. of Juan Macario, fol. 
7.) the battle was long, and supported with great 
desperation on both sides ; more than 200 of the 
Chignautecos were killed ; and on the side of the 
Spaniards, many of theTlascaltecas, particularly 
2 brave leaders of that nation, Juan Suchiat and 
Geronimo Carillo, and many Spanish soldiers 
wounded. In this battle the bravery of Garcia de 
Aguilar was very conspicuous, having in a retreat 
of the division he belonged to, remained a little 
behind his companions, he was attacked by up- 
wards of 400 Indians who surrounded him, 
after fighting them a long time and being co- 
vered with blood, he lost both his horse and his 
arms ; the animal without the rider defended itself 
by kicking and prancing against the Indians, who 
endeavoured to f-eize it : Aguilar, on being dis- 
mounted, drew his dagger, made great slaughter 
with it among his enemies, and contrived to keep 
them off until 6 horsemen came to his assistance 
and liberated him, but not before he had received 
several very dreadful wounds. The result of this 
battle, with the extraordinary resistance of Agui- 



.430 

lar, so dispirited the Chignautecos, that they re- 
treated to their own territory. Three days after 
this victory, an envoy from the caciques of Chig- 
nauta arrived at the Spanish camp, with a present 
of gold, green feathers, and white mantles, to pro- 
pose terms of peace, stipulating that their sub- 
mission should be kept secret until after the cap- 
ture of Mixco ; as a proof of the caciques' sin- 
cerity, the messenger requested for them an inter- 
view with the AhaoTonaltiuh (Alvarado), to com- 
municate an important secret that would be of 
the utmost service to the Spaniards. He was 
received with many tokens of respect by the ge- 
neral, who in return for the presents of the ca- 
ciques, sent them some scarlet caps, beads, knives, 
and other European articles. Three days elapsed 
before the ambassador returned with the chiefs, 
as Chignauta was 10 leagues from Mixco ; on ar- 
riving at the head-quarters, after many salutations 
on both sides, the caciques told Alvarado that he 
could not capture the Mixquenos, even though 
he should gain the top of the eminence; because 
they had a cave or subterranean passage by which 
they might escape to the bank of the river, unless 
a body of troops were stationed at the mouth of 
the passage to intercept them. This intelligence 
was gladly received, and 40 men, cross-bows, and 
cavalry, under the orders of Alonzo Lopez de 
Loarca, were sent to secure the spot pointed out 
on the bank of the river. 

The most difficult object still remained ; this 
was to get into the town by the narrow path, 
which was in fact the only possible entrance. 
To perform this perilous service the following 
disposition was made; a man bearing a shield to 



431 

protect a cross-bow man, was to advance along 
the pass, followed closely by the marksman ; 
then another shield-bearer, supported in like 
manner; so on alternately, until the single file 
reached the top of the rock. Bernardino deAr- 
teaga, who on many occasions had given signal 
proofs of invincible valour, offered to lead the van 
in this perilous ascent, and under his guidance 
the party entered upon the narrow path with an 
activity and courage that were neither repressed 
nor intimidated by the large stones and poisoned 
arrows that the enemy showered down upon them ; 
and in the advance, the cross-bow men and mus- 
keteers made great havoc among the Indians; in 
this manner the Spaniards had proceeded a con- 
siderable distance along the dangerous way, when 
arriving at a part where the road widened a little, 
a large stone tumbled from the height above it, 
struck Arteaga, and broke his leg: he was sup- 
ported by Diego Lopez Villanueva, and the acci- 
dent seemed to increase the ardour of the as- 
sailants ; for they pushed on in defiance of the 
incessant discharges of arrows, pikes, and stones, 
until gaining a position which permitted them to 
extend their front, and display their customary 
skill, they commenced an attack that the enemy 
w^ere unable long to resist; they suffered great 
slaughter from the fire-arms, which infused such 
terror into their ranks, that they began to give 
way. As soon as the Spaniards had gained the 
top of the rocks, they were attacked by another 
party of Indians which had been kept in reserve; 
but as this body had had leisure to observe the 
prowess of their assailants, they fought but feebly; 
and after receiving a few discharges that killed 



432 

many, the others fled in confusion. Some trust- 
ing to their swiftness, escaped from the scene of 
contest by the path wiiich the Spaniards had as- 
cended ; many fell over the rocks, and were 
dashed to pieces ; and those who evaded that 
danger were made prisoners by the guard left 
at the camp. The enemy within the place at- 
tempted to escape by the subterranean passage, 
but numbers were taken before they reached the 
entrance of it by a party of infantry that pursued 
them ; those who got into it with their wives and 
children, were suddenly attacked on arriving at 
the bank of the river, by the infantry and cavalry 
stationed there, under the command of Alonzo 
Lopez de Loarca, and most of them made pri- 
soners, among whom were some of the principal 
caciques. (Quich6 MS. of Francisco Garcia Calel 
Teznmp. fol. 7.) This action being terminated, the 
Spaniards retired with their prisoners, at first to 
Chignauta, and afterward to their head-quarters. 
Information of the victory was immediately sent 
to Pedro de Alvarado then at Mixco, who pre- 
pared without delay to join the army in the field ; 
he, however, sent orders to set fire to the place, 
that it might no longer serve as an asylum to the 
refractory natives : all the prisoners were col- 
lected and settled on the spot where the present 
village of Mixco stands, about 9 or 10 leagues 
distant from their former habitations. 



433 



CHAP. XLI. 

Of the serious and almost general Insurrection 
that took place in 1526. 
By exertions the most extraordinary, Pedro 
de Alvarado completed the conquest of the 3 
principal nations of the kingdom, that is to say, 
the Quiches, the Kachiquels, and the Zutugiles, 
in the year 1524. In the following year, he suc- 
ceeded in subduing the populous nation of the 
Pipiles, that extended along the coast of the Pa- 
cific, in reducing the large towns of Sacatepeques 
and the formidably fortress of Mixco. This suc- 
cessful chieftain thinking his labours at an end, 
formed the resolution of returning to Spain, to 
give an account to the Emperor Charles the Fifth 
of his extraordinary conquests, and the immense 
extent of territory that had been thereby added 
to his dominions: he, therefore, took leave of the 
cabildo of Guatemala on the 4th of October, 

1525. Just at this period, he received intelligence 
that Fernando Cortes had arrived in the province 
of Honduras, and it was necessary he should re- 
pair thither to pay his respects to his superior 
captain-general. He did not, hovrever, under- 
take the journey until the month of February, 

1526, for on the 30th of January he was present 
at a council held in Guatemala. After that pe- 
riod, he set out to have an interview^ with Cortes ; 
but, on arriving at Choluteca, he was met by the 
captains Luis Marin, Bernal Diaz del Castillo, 
and some soldiers who had arrived with Cortes 
at Honduras, but were now on their return to 
Mexico, through the kingdom of Guatemala; from 

2 F 



434 

these officers he learned that the commander in 
chief (Cortes) had embarked at Truxillo, and 
sailed for Mexico : in consequence of this report, 
the whole party returned to Guatemala. 

An extraordinary change now waited Alvarado: 
the countries that he had so recently passed 
through as governor and captain-general, and 
where he had received all the obedience and ho- 
nours due to his exalted rank, he now on his re- 
turn found in a state of open warfare; the inha- 
bitants opposing his passage as if he had been 
an enemy; the provinces that had cost him 2 
years of incalculable labour and difficulties to 
subdue, were, in the short space of a few days, 
thrown into a state of rebellion to his autho- 
rity : this was not the case with 1 or 2 dis- 
tricts only, but the flame had rapidly spread over 
an extent of 139 leagues, from Chaparrastique to 
Olintepeque. The cause of this rebellion in the 
districts of St. Miguel and St. Salvador is not 
now known, but the reason is well ascertained, by 
which Sequechul, king of the Quiches, and Sina- 
cam, the Kachiquel monarch, were induced to 
revolt against the Spaniards ; and their example 
drew the inferior caciques of Sacatepeques, Pi- 
tt ula, Petapa, and others, into the vortex of insur- 
rection. While Pedro de Alvarado was absent 
on his journey towards Honduras, it is generally 
understood that he left his brother Gonzalo as 
lieutenant-governor, (it was not his brother George, 
as some writers have erroneously supposed, for 
that officer was in Mexico at the time). Gonzalo 
was covetous, and wishing to enrich himself in a 
short time, inconsiderately demanded 200 ala- 
boaes, or children, which he sent to the different 



435 

washing-places where gold was to be found, under 
an obligation that each was to bring him daily 
90 grains of gold ; as the children were only from 
9 to 12 years of age, they frequently wasted the 
time in sports natural to their time of life, and 
failed to produce the stipulated quantity; in 
such cases, Gonzalo compelled the leaders of the 
parties of infants to make good the deficiency. 
These exactions produced great discontents 
among the Indians, which quickly spread to the 
maseguales or plebeians, and as readily infected 
the nobles : they threatened Gonzalo that they 
would report his extortions to Tonalteul (the sun 
of God, el sol de Dios), the name by which they 
designated his brother Pedro : the menace pro- 
ducing no relief, they represented the vexations 
they endured to their king, Sinacam. This sove- 
reign was already extremely dissatisfied at the 
conduct of the Spaniards; for when he voluntarily 
made terras of peace with them, he considered he 
was treating with them as friends, who would assist 
him in defending his states against his enemies, 
and in bringing his rebellious subjects to a proper 
sense of their d uties to him ; and that at least each 
party would retain the supreme authority over his 
respective people. But when he found that Pe- 
dro de Alvarado deprived him of his dominions, 
and assumed an independent power over both 
himself and his subjects, he began to repent of the 
facility with which he had admitted his oppress- 
ors, although he dissembled his mortification for 
sometime; no sooner did this opportunity present 
itself, than he determined to shake off the yoke 
that he had so incautiously imposed upon his 
country. 

2 F 2 



436 

To put this design in train, Sinacam sent am- 
bassadors to the caciques of Petapa, Pinula, and 
others, to request their aid ; he liberated Seque- 
chul, king of Quich6, who had been detained 
prisoner in Guatemala since the year 1524 : the 
latter also sent messengers to invite the chiefs of 
Utatlan, and other places of his dominions, to 
send troops with the utmost celerity, prepared 
with all possible means for occupying Guatemala: 
these troops were placed under the guidance of 
the caciques^ who possessed the greatest autho- 
rity among them, and the greatest reputation and 
experience in the conduct of military operations. 
The 2 kings with the Guatemaltecan Indians took 
the field, and dividing their forces into 2 corps, 
encamped, one in the valley of Alotenango, 
under the orders of Sinacam ; and the other, 
commanded by Sequechul, was stationed in the 
valley of Panchoi. On these unexpected move- 
ments taking place, the Spaniards of Guatemala, 
abandoning for the present all care of the politi- 
cal government, found it necessary to devote their 
whole attention to arms and warlike preparations. 
They raised new levies, and established various 
commands ; Gonzalo de Alvarado was appointed 
chief of the force destined for Olintepeque: he 
quickly performed his march, and there pitched 
his camp, which consisted of no more than 60 
Spaniards, both horse and foot, and 400 Indians, 
Mexicans, or Tlascaltecans, armed with pikes 
and arrows. Of the squadrons left to cover Gua- 
temala, Hernando de Chaves commanded the 
one stationed to the southward, in the valley of 
Alotenango ; and Gonzalo de Oballe directed 
that which took a position to the northward, in 



437 

the valley of Panchoi. Chaves resolutely resisted 
4 attacks made upon him by Sinacam, supported 
by the Indians of Alotenango and Aguacatepeque. 
Two attempts were made against Oballe by the 
body of Indians under Sequechul, and it required 
all his activity and military skill to support him- 
self against the assailants, whose force he found 
well organized, strongly intrenched, and covered 
by a deep ditch extending along the front and one 
flank of their position. The Spanish forces were 
obliged to remain encamped during the months of 
June, July, and August, suffering great incon- 
venience from the violent heat and heavy rains. 
Among the insurgent towns was Petapa, one of 
the most celebrated of the district, both in the 
time of its idolatry, and under the government of 
the Spaniards. It was under the authority of a 
cacique named Cazhaulan, (which translated 
means '* the faithful will come,") rather a pro- 
phetic epithet, as in his time the Christians came 
to preach the gospel. This Cazhaulan, being an 
independent prince, and sovereign of one of the 
4 great districts, never paid tribute to the kings 
of Utatlan, Kachiquel, or Achi : his daughters 
married into the families of the other sovereigns ; 
his male descendants long retained, in Petapa, 
the distinction of caciques, and were held in high 
estimation for their nobility and prowess. Caz- 
haulan himself was a man of great endowments, 
highly venerated for his piety, fidelity, and good 
government: on the arrival of the Spaniards at 
Guatemala, he spontaneously submitted to the 
authority of the king of Spain ; but many of his 
principal nobles took umbrage at this submission, 
as it appeared to them an unworthy act to sub- 



438 

ject himself to a strange and unknown race of 
men, who, as some of them said, went on 4 feet, 
(supposing the rider and his horse to be one ani- 
mal), and were all Teules (or gods) ; who wounded 
and killed with thunder, and who would never 
suffer him to retain the liberty that he had until 
then enjoyed. This created a sanguinary civil war 
among the Petapanecos, one party taking arms 
in defence of their prince, and another against 
him ; to the latter belonged the principal calpul 
of the town, who retired to the adjacent moun- 
tains. (Kachiquel MS. fol. 13.) In a few days 
the revolters, trusting to the kindly disposition of 
Cazhaulan, returned to their homes, and solicited 
pardon for their past error. The lapse of a short 
time proved this to be nothing more than a simu- 
lated submission, and that the seeds of rebellion 
were still lurking in their hearts; for they had 
no sooner heard of the Kachiquel insurrection, 
than they were in open revolt against their own 
chief, as well as the Spaniards, and being sup- 
ported by the cacique of Pinula, they gave abun- 
dant employment to the latter ; for by their aid, 
those of Jalpatagua were enabled to prolong the 
war, and even when these were conquered, they 
attacked Pedro de Alvarado on the plains of 
Canales. 

The same thing occurred with the natives of 
Sacatepeques, who at first refused submission to 
the Spaniards : they were subdued in 1525, but 
the next year again revolted, either at the instiga- 
tion of Sinacam, or, according to the account of 
some of their own countrymen, because one of 
their papas, or priests of their idols, named Pa- 
naguali, had persuaded them that their god Ca- 



439 

manelon had appeared to him, and was much en- 
raged that his friendly Sacatepeques, distrusting 
his power and protection, had surrendered to the 
Teules of Castile, who came for no other pur- 
pose than to take from them their lands and 
liberties ; he exhorted them to take up arms 
again, promising to assist, and give them the vic- 
tory. Impelled by this advice of their god, the 
Sacatepeques assembled in force, and, with great 
noise and howling, attacked the first guard of the 
Spanish garrison with the fury of ravenous beasts. 
The alarm was sounded, and a reinforcement ar- 
rived to support the guard, which was thus ena- 
bled to make its way through the enraged multi- 
tude, with some loss on both sides ; 1 Spaniard 
and 3 Tlascaltecans were made prisoners, the re- 
mainder of the troop retreating in good order to 
Guatemala, 



CHAP. XLIL 



Of the Reduction of the Insurgent Provinces 
in 1526. 

As soon as Alvarado obtained information that 
Cortes had quitted Honduras for Mexico, he pre- 
pared to return to Guatemala, having his escort 
strengthened by the soldiers who accompanied 
Luis Marin. This was a most seasonable rein- 
forcement, for he found the provinces of Chapar- 
ristique, or St. Miguel, in a state of warfare; and, 
in his encounters with the insurgents, 1 Spa- 
nish soldier, called Nicuesa, was killed, and 3 
others wounded. In the province of Cuscatlan 
he had several obstinate engagements with the 



440 

natives, but no details of them have been pre- 
served ; and, although Bernal Diaz del Castillo 
was present, he only mentions, in his History, 
chap. 193, that the provinces were in a state of 
insurrection. 

Having overcome these impediments, the army 
advanced by hasty marches towards Guatemala ; 
but, on arriving at the confines of Jalpatagua, its 
passage svas intercepted by numerous strong bo- 
dies of Indian archers, with whom a smart con- 
test began, but it was not of long duration; for 
almost as soon as the infantry were brought into 
action, the different squadrons of the enemy dis- 
persed, and fled to the mountains. The expul- 
sion of the Indians from a rock fortress was a 
matter of greater difficulty, as it was defended 
by several thousand combatants, who, maintain- 
ing a position naturally very strong, were enabled 
to cut off the communication with Guatemala. 
The rock of Jalpatagua stands on an eminence, 
about 9 miles distant from the village of that 
name, commanding the main road from the capi- 
tal to the eastern provinces of the kingdom, and 
there was no detour by which this route could be 
avoided. Before the Spaniards entered the defile, 
they were attacked by several bodies of Indians, 
who, after fighting resolutely for a long time, re- 
treated to the rock for protection. This enor- 
mous mass forms an ascent of several furlongs, 
is broken into rugged precipices, and surrounded 
by a deep ravine, in the manner of a fosse ; as 
the different points of it were covered with In- 
dian archers, it occupied the assailants 3 days of 
continual fighting before they could gain posses- 
sion of it, and then not without considerable loss. 



441 

Hernando de Alvarado, Pedro de Baldivieso, 
Juan Alvarez, Fernando de Espinoza, and Gon- 
zalo Gomez, all soldiers of great valour and repu- 
tation, were killed in the different attacks. The 
difficulties of Alvarado and his army did not ter- 
minate with this victory; for, in advancing into 
the plains of Canales, they met a formidable body 
of Indians from Petapa, Pinula, Guaymango 
Jumai, and other places. Another battle took 
place, and success for a long time seemed doubt- 
ful, until the cacique Cazhaulan, and such of the 
Petapanecos as remained faithful to him, came 
up to assist the Spaniards ; he attacked the rear 
of the enemy, who, finding themselves hardly 
pressed by both parties, commenced a retreat to 
the mountains and adjacent defiles. Alvarado 
continued his march, and, approaching Guate- 
mala, on descending a height called the Ridge of 
Las Caiias, there happened so smart a shock of 
an earthquake, that the soldiers were unable to 
keep their feet. (Bernal Diaz, cap. 189.) Arriv- 
ing in the valley of Panchoi, they found another 
body of Indians, under Sequechul, king of Qui- 
che, strongly posted within intrenchments sur- 
rounded by a ditch, and who appeared prepared 
to stop his progress. The army of Alvarado, ac- 
customed to difficulties, did not hesitate a mo- 
ment to attack their enemies ; they passed the 
ditch, penetrated the intrenchments without los- 
ing a man, and, after dispersing the Indians, pur- 
sued their route to Guatemala, where they arrived 
that evening. Alvarado sent to Sinacam and 
Sequechul, offering them terms of peace, but, 
after waiting 10 days without receiving an an- 
swer to his overtures, he set out for Mexico. The 



442 

two kings decamped from the valleys of Panchoi 
and Alotenango, and retired to the mountains of 
Qnezalteuango, with all their troops and warlike 
stores. 

On arriving in Guatemala, Alvarado immedi- 
ately dispatched Juan Perez Dardon, Pedro Ama- 
lin, and Francisco Lopez, with some troops to 
support his faithful ally the cacique Cazhaulan, 
and by this assistance the populous town of Pe- 
tapa was soon obliged to submit to the authority 
of the king of Spain, and again placed under the 
government of its lawful cacique. This squadron 
had scarcely returned from the expedition, when, 
on the last day of August, Diego de Alvarado, 
and the garrison of Sacatepeques, arrived at Gua- 
temela, with intelligence of an insurrection hav- 
ing broken out among the natives of that, and 
those of the contiguous places in concert with 
them. At this time, Pedro de Alvarado was bu- 
sily occupied in preparing for his journey to Mex- 
ico, for which purpose a cabildo was held on the 
26th of August, 1526, when he nominated ordi- 
nary alcaldes and regidors; Pedro Portocarrero, 
being one of the former, was also invested with 
the authority of lieutenant-governor during the 
absence of the captain-general. At the same time, 
the operations for reducing the kings Sinacam 
and Sequechul to obedience, were confided to 
him. As the garrison of Sacatepeques had ar- 
rived before his departure with an account of the 
insurrection, he dispatched on the following day, 
the 1st of September, Portocarrero with the fol- 
lowing officers, Juan Perez Dardon, Bartolome 
Becerra, Gaspar de Polanco, Gonzalo de Oballe, 
Hernando de Chaves, Gomez de Ulloa, and An- 



443 

ton de Morales, with 60 horse, 80 musketeers, 
150 Tlascaltecaiis, 400 Mexicans, and 100 of the 
Sacatepeque Indians who had accompanied the 
Spanish garrison. This force, amounting altoge- 
ther to 790 men, was divided into 8 companies, 
each commanded by one of the just mentioned 
captains. On the 7th day after the insurrection 
had broken out, the army arrived in the revolted 
territory, and took up a favourable position in a 
small valley. The commander immediately sent 
the cavalry, under Hernando de Chaves, to ex- 
plore the enemy's country, and reconnoitre the 
state and positions of the rebels. In a short time 
this officer returned with 2 prisoners, belonging 
to the little place of Ucuhil (of which there is 
not the smallest vestige remaining), who reported 
that their village remained at peace, and that 
even in the town of Sacatepeques there was a 
large portion of the inhabitants in favour of the 
Spaniards ; but, being too weak to resist the op- 
posite party, which 2 days before had treated 
them with great violence, they had withdrawn 
themselves from the town, and sought security in 
the defiles and hovels of the maize plantations. 
They also informed him, that the Spaniard and 
the 3 Tlascaltecans who had been made prison- 
ers, were sacrificed to the idol Camanelon. 

This last piece of intelligence greatly exaspe- 
rated Portocarrero, who immediately marched to 
Ucuhil^ from which place he sent a message to 
the friendly Sacatepeques, who were wandering 
about the plantations, and was soon afterward 
joined by them to the number of about 800, un- 
der the command of Huehuexuc, one of their 
principal leaders : this accession increased his 



444 

force to 1590 men ; the allies were divided into 
4 companies, and placed under the direction of 
Juan Rezino, Sancbo de Baraona, Juan de Ver- 
astigui, and Andres Lazo. The general now ad- 
vanced his camp within a league of the revolted 
town, and sent, at different times, 3 messen- 
gers, offering terms for an amicable adjustment of 
all matters in dispute ; but the insurgents were 
obstinate, and disdainfully rejected the proposals; 
they even attempted to seize the bearers of them, 
who escaped only by the swiftness of their horses. 
The army again removed for the purpose of gain- 
ing a hill that commanded the plain ; but the 
march was scarcely commenced, when it was at- 
tacked by a body of 2000 Indians ; after some 
manoeuvres were performed to gain the advan- 
tage of ground, the enemy were so hemmed in, 
that they could not avoid a battle, and after a 
conflict of about half an hour, were forced 
to save themselves by a precipitate flight : the 
Spaniards were thus at liberty to pursue their 
march, and they took possession of the hill with- 
out farther opposition. On the following day, 
about 3000 Indians approached near enough to 
discharge their poisoned arrows, by which the 
Spaniards suffered considerable loss ; but 2 dis- 
charges of artillery killed so many of the assail- 
ants, that those uninjured, thought proper to re- 
treat, but in good order, and still defending them- 
selves with their arrows : the Spaniards eagerly 
pursuing this advantage, hastily descended into 
the plain, where they were again attacked by the 
retreating party in front, and in the rear by the 
body that had been defeated the preceding day. 
These unexpected assaults forced them to move 



445 

with celerity in order to gain a wider part of 
the plain ; but in the hottest of the battle, they 
found themselves entangled on some uneven 
ground, covered with low brushwood, that so 
much impeded their movements as to throw them 
into disorder, and they were defeated. The Spa- 
niards retired to a position between 2 steep rocks, 
where they considered themselves sufficiently se- 
cure, to look after and dress their wounded, in 
which duty the general himself was one of the 
most active persons. The next day he resumed 
his march for Sacatepeques, and on approaching 
the place, discovered a large body of the enemy, 
armed with clubs, pikes, and sharpened stakes; 
great numbers with bows and arrows, and others 
with slings; they were covered with skins of ani- 
mals, and their heads protected with helmets of 
feathers : they exultingly advanced to h;eet the 
Spaniards, setting up a most tremendous noise of 
cries and bowlings. Portocarrero perceiving the 
advance of the enemy, quickly made his dis- 
positions to receive them. He placed the infantry 
in the centre, the cavalry to support each wing, 
and the artillery in front ; in this manner he 
waited the attack : the enemy, rushing on with 
impetuosity, were received with a steady fire 
from the field-pieces and small arms, by which 
many were killed and more wounded ; they con- 
tinued the contest for some time, alternately re- 
treating and attacking, which occasioned great 
loss on both sides : in their last retreat the enemy 
suffered so much from the fire-arms, that they 
precipitately quitted the field, and shut them- 
selves up in the town. They were pursued in 



446 

their flight by 5 companies, who succeeded in 
capturing 8 chiefs, besides Panaguali, and 2 
other priests : the general, considering these as 
sufficient hostages to secure the completion of 
his design, retired to his quarters at Ucuhil, 
where he remained 3 days to take care of his 
wounded. On mustering his force, he found the 
loss amounted to 37 killed ; viz. 1 Spaniard, 
named Villafuerte, 9 Tlascaltecas, and 27 Sa- 
catepeques ; among whom was their leader, 
Huehuexuc. After 3 days stay in Ucuhil, 
Portocarrero sent one of his prisoners to the 
town, with a message, importing, that on the fol- 
lowing day he would come with his army to 
settle the terms of peace; and intimating, at the 
same time, that the inhabitants might remain in 
the utmost security, as it was not his intention to 
do the smallest injury to any one : the messenger 
returned about sun-set on the same day, report- 
ing, that the town was perfectly quiet, and the 
Castilaguinacs (or Spaniards) were anxiously ex- 
pected, in order that the chiefs might renew their 
declarations of obedience, the infraction of which 
had occasioned them such severe losses. On the 
following day, the Spanish army left their en- 
campment, and quietly advanced to Sacate- 
peques, where it was received by the principal 
leaders of the Indians, and admitted into the 
town. The troops were dispersed into conve- 
nient quarters; the principal square being sur- 
rounded and well guarded, the general assem- 
bled the chiefs and some of the people, and in 
their presence ordered Panaguali, the principal 
priest and promoter of the insurrection, to be 



447 

strangled. Thus terminated the war of Sacate- 
peques, and the final subjection of that district 
to the authority of the Spaniards. 



CHAP. XLIII. 

The Capture of Sinacam and SeqnechuL 

This event is related both by Fuentes and Vas- 
quez, but circumstantially differing so much in 
each account, that the 2 authors appear to be 
narrating 2 distinct historical facts. Vasquez 
relates the incident more in detail than the other, 
and asserts, that he drew his information from 
manuscripts and traditions of the Indians, which 
he had the means of ascertaining to be correct: 
but his account is clogged with many particulars 
not at all reconcilable with the fact, as it is re- 
corded in the books of the cabildo of Guatemala. 
Fuentes, a writer in general very diffuse on other 
subjects, is particularly concise on this. After 
having minutely detailed the battles fought in re- 
conquering the fortress of Japaltagua, the seigni- 
ory of Petapa, and the valley of Sacatepeques ; 
the insurrection of these two kings; their encamp- 
ing in the valleys of Panchoi and Alotenango ; and 
subsequently intrenching themselves on the vol- 
cano of Quezaltenango , he quits the subject, 
and does not return to it again, until the 6th 
chapter, book 16th, of his first volume, where he 
mentions it incidentally in describing a certain 
ceremony of the Indians, allusive to this battle, 
which they call the festival of the volcano.* 

* This festival, celebrated by the Indians, on any extraordi- 
nary occasion, is the representation of a battle. When it is to 



448 

Fuentes, for reasons already assigned, has ge- 
nerally been consulted in the course of this work ; 



be performed, timely notice is given to the different Indian vil- 
lages, whose inhabitants are entitled to take a part in it ; an 
artificial mountain is raised in the great square of the city of 
Guatemala, and covered with turf, flowers, and branches of 
trees, in which they place monkeys, guacamayas, chocoyos, 
squirrels, and other small animals : in the body of the moun- 
tain several caves are made, in which dantas, stags, wild 
boars, and pizotes are confined ; on the summit of it a small 
house is erected, which is called the king's house. About 3 
o'clock, p.m., on the day of the festival, 2 squadrons of ca- 
valry march into the square, and take post on the eastern 
side ; the western side is occupied by 2 companies of infantry : 
next arrive several troops of Indians, altogether about 1000, 
naked, with the exception of the mastates, painted and deco- 
rated with feathers of guacamayas, and other birds, represent- 
ing the state of the natives in their barbarism ; some armed 
with bows and blunt arrows, others with clubs and shields : 
these are succeeded by other Indians, playing various musical 
instruments, peculiar to their nations ; different dances are 
then performed with great regularity, forming altogether a very 
agreeable entertainment ; greatly heightened by the variety and 
costliness of the dresses, and the brilliancy of the plumages with 
which the dancers are adorned. Lastly, The governor of Joco- 
tenango makes his appearance, attended by a numerous suite of 
the principal persons of his town, all richly dressed, with orna- 
mental chains about their necks, and hats with large plumes. 
The governor is the representative of King Sinacam, and is 
therefore borne in a gilded chair, on men's shoulders ; he is 
richly ^et^rated with quezal feathers, and other magnificent 
ornaments, according to the practice of the native monarchs ; 
in one hand he has a fan of feathers, in the other he holds a 
sceptre, and wears a crown on his head. The governor of Joco- 
tenango has been, for time immemorial, the representative of 
Sinacam ; and it is esteemed a high honour: for in 1680, when 
the cathedral was opened with a grand ceremony, the represen- 
tation of this festival formed part of it, and the governor of 
Itzapa offered 500 dollars to the governor of Jocotenango for 
the privilege of becoming Sinacam's substitute, but could not 
obtain the honour. On arriving at the mountain, the governor 
is carried to the top, and seated in the king's house. Two com- 
panies of TIascaltecan Indians, all descendants from those who 
assisted Portocarrero in his expedition, now march into the 
square ; these are dressed in the Spanish costume, armed with 
swords, muskets, and pikes, and commanded by the governor 



449 

therefore, for the purpose of keeping up the con- 
nexion with other parts that have been taken 
from his narrative, he will be preferred ; and for 
another reason, because it is more in unison with 
the books of the cabildo ; however, both ac- 
counts shall be laid before the reader. 

Fuentes (chap. 3, lib. 9, par. 1,) relates the in- 
surrection of these chiefs, in the manner already 
given ; they had stationed their troops in the val- 
leys near the city of Guatemala; when Pedro de 
Alvarado returned from Choluteca, they refused 
his proposals for peace, and withdrew to the 
mountain of Quezaltenango, where with a great 
number of their principal nobles, and a large body 
of warriors, they fortified themselves very strongly. 
Alvarado was well aware how necessary his pre- 
sence in this country was, at so particular a crisis; 
but finding also that his personal character de- 
manded an exculpation from the very serious 
charges which his rivals and enemies had preferred 
against him, to the emperor Charles the Fifth, he 
determined to embark for Spain, leaving Portocar- 

of the old city. On arriving at the mountain, they begin the 
siege of the fortress ; they surround it, discharge their fire- 
arms, and attempt to escalade in various parts ; the besieged, in 
defence of their position, discharge their arrows with the usual 
war-cries of the Indians, repulse the attack of the Tlascaltecans, 
and, in fact, go through the minutiae of a battle, much to the 
satisfaction and amusement of the spectators ; after this skir- 
mishing has continued some time, the final assault is given by the 
Tlascaltecans, the defenders abandon Sinacam, who is made 
prisoner, and bound with a chain by the governor and alcaldes 
of Almolonga, who remove him from the mountain, convey him 
to the palace, and deliver him prisoner to the governor; the ce- 
remony then concludes, and the people return to their respec- 
tive villages, in the same order as they arrived. For some time 
past this festival has not been celebrated, the omission has 
doubtless been with a view to relieve the Indians from the ex- 
orbitant expenses to which it subjected them. 

2g 



450 

rero as lieutenant-governor during his absence. 
This commander on his return from the conquest 
of Sacatepeques, was informed of the hostilities 
committed by the rebels against those villages that 
still adhered to their allegiance, and considering 
that unless he could check them, the insurrection 
would daily gain greater strength, and consider- 
ably increase the difficulties of suppressing it, 
he assembled a council of war, and they resolved 
upon effecting the capture of the insurgent king's 
Sinacam and Sequechul. 

Before setting out for Quezaltenango, he ap- 
pointed Hernan Carillo his associate in the office 
of ordinary alcalde, and also constituted him civil 
and military governor during his absence. He 
prepared for the expedition in the best manner 
that circumstances would permit ; his force con- 
sisted of 215 Spanish musketeers and cross- 
bowmen, 108 cavalry, 120 Tlascaltecans, and 230 
Mexicans, with 4 pieces of artillery, under the 
direction of Diego de Usagre, amounting alto- 
gether to 674 men. Hernando de Chaves and 
Luis Dubois (a gentleman of the king's bed- 
chamber) were appointed to command the horse; 
to 7 companies of Spaniards and Indians, Bar- 
tolome Becerra, Alonzo de Loarca, Gaspar de 
Polanco, Gomez de Ulloa, Sancho de Baraona, 
Anton de Morales, and Antonio de Salazar, were 
nominated captains. Thus arranged, the army 
left Guatemala, and directed its march towards 
Quezaltenango; they had scarcely advanced 3 
leagues before they were engaged with the Indians 
of Tiangues or Chimaltenango. That his pro- 
gress might not be impeded by this incident, he 
left 120 infantry under the captains Pedro Amalinj 



451 

and Francisco de Orduiia to manage the dispute 
with these Indians, and with the remainder con- 
tinued his route to Quezaltenango, He had the 
satisfaction of finding the numerous population of 
this place faithful to the Spaniards, and obtaining 
from it a reinforcement of 2000 Indian archers, 
advanced towards the frontiers of the rebel ter- 
ritories. Several bodies of Indians, skirmished 
with him on the road, but were unable to offer 
any serious opposition. On arriving in a little 
valley, a force of more than 10,000 Indian archers 
surprised him, more unprepared than was con- 
sistent with military discipline, when traversing 
an enemy's country; and would have routed him, 
had not his presence of mind, and military talents 
enabled him to manoeuvre for a position suitable 
to the nature of the ground, under cover of the 
cavalry which advanced to receive the enemy's 
attack. The action lasted for more than 3 hours, 
and was at last decided by an impetuous charge 
of the infantry, in which vast numbers of the 
enemy, and Rubam Pocom their general were 
slain ; they then retired to the bottom of the 
mountain upon which Sinacam and Sequechul 
had taken a strong position ; Portocarrero now 
strengthened by more Indians from Quezalte- 
nango, and by the troops he had detached at 
Chimaltenango, began to ascend the acclivity ; 
his troops forming a triangular figure, by which 
means he circumvented his opponents, and pressed 
them into a narrower space as he ascended. By 
these movements the enemy were greatly confused, 
and being rendered desperate at seeing themselves 
still closer pressed, attacked their assailants in 
large troops on different parts of their lines, with 

2 G 2 



452 

arrows, pikes, and large stones; but finding re- 
sistance useless, some retreated to the top of the 
mountain, others made their escape by some of 
the passes, and great numbers surrendered them- 
selves prisoners. Sinacam and Sequechul were 
taken and remained in confinement for 15 years, 
until Pedro de Alvarado embarked for the Spice 
Islands. 

The account ofVasquez (tom. 1, lib. 1, cap. 14, 
fol. 67.) is as follows. The caciques Ahpotzotzil 
king of the Kachiquels,* and his brother Ahpox- 
ahil, king of Solola had submitted, and become 
vassals of the king of Spain ; living in great har- 
mony with Pedro de Alvarado. During the ab- 
sence of the latter, his brother Gonzalo, was left 
governor, and he wishing to enrich himself in a 
short time, imposed upon the inhabitants of Pati- 
namit, or Tecpanguatemala, an extraordinary tri- 
bute ; which was, that 400 boys, and as many 
girls, should deliver to him daily a reed, as thick 
as their little fingers, filled with grains of gold, 
under the penalty of being detained as slaves in 
case of default. For some days they complied 
with this mandate; but being afterward unable 
to keep up the contribution, the avaricious go- 
vernor went to the town, and treated the Indians 
with so much harshness as to threaten them with 
death in case of noncompliance. The Indians 
have a story that in this time of their distress, 
the devil appeared to those who were so oppressed, 
and exhorted them to revolt and shake off the 
Spanish yoke. Ahpotzotzil, as the Indians say, 

* This cacique revolted in 1526, and was for a long time de- 
tained prisoner in Guatemala ; in the books of the cabildo he 
is called Sinacam. 



453 

incited by the devil ; or what is more probable, 
exasperated by the vexatious conduct of Gonzalo; 
determined to relinquish the friendship of the 
Spaniards, and endeavour, by force of arms to 
recover his liberty and former authority. With 
this design, he convoked the caciques of Tecpana- 
titlan, Ruyaalxot, Comalapa, Xilotepeque, Saca- 
tepeques, Sumpango, Chimaltenango, and others, 
and by their assistance raised an army of more 
than 30,000 combatants. One part of this force 
was destined to intercept Pedro de Alvarado, in 
the mountains of Petapa ; and the main body was 
to fall upon the Spaniards and Indians in Almo- 
longa ; the former were but few, many having ac- 
companied the general to Honduras, and others 
had retired to their houses in the country ; the 
attempt being made as suddenly as unexpectedly, 
many were killed, more wounded, and such as 
escaped uninjured fled to Olintepeque.* 

The Kachiquel caciques, in order to secure a 
retreat in case of being attacked by the Spaniards, 
fortified themselves upon some high mountains, 
about 10 leagues to the eastward of Tecpangua- 
temala, called by the Indians Nimache ; the de- 
clivity of these mountains is so precipitous as to 
make it necessary for a person wishing to descend, 
to let himself down by a rope made fast to the 
trees ; in which manner Vasquez says the priest, 
from whom he received his information, had des- 
cended. On this eminence the kings had built a 

* This author seems to infer that the city was deserted ; but 
as cabildos are recorded as having taken place in the city of 
St. Jago on the 23d and 26th of August, and particularly on 
the first mentioned day it was announced by the public crier, 
that those persons who wished to settle there, might apply for 
ground ; it cannot be said the place was abandoned. 



454' 

fortress, and a place of residence ; with stone and 
lime, and took every imaginable precaution for 
their security ; through the ravine that serves as 
a fosse to the fort, runs a large river affording 
always a plentiful supply of fish ; on its banks, 
and in the adjacent savannahs, there were many 
maize fields, so that they could experience no 
difficulty in maintaining themselves in their posi- 
tion several years. At the latter end of August, 
1526, Pedro de Alvarado entered this district, 
with a considerable number of soldiers, of those 
who had been under his own command, and those 
under Luis Marin, who had joined him at Cho- 
luteca ; he soon perceived that the Guatemaltecan 
Indians were in arms, and prepared to resist his 
passage ; he however chose to avoid a contest 
with them, and pushed forward to Olintepeque. 
At this place he was joined by the troops under 
Juan de Leon Ordoria, who had been stationed in 
the district ever since 1524, and those also who 
had been driven from Guatemala by the Kachi- 
quels ; he reviewed his force, and found that the 
number of soldiers barely amounted to 200, but 
most of these were brave and experienced veterans. 
The Indians of Almolonga were likewise well dis- 
ciplined, and the Quiches had offered to assist 
and supply them with provisions ; therefore, after 
manufacturing a sufficient quantity of gunpowder, 
with sulphur drawn from the volcano of Taja- 
mulco, and leaving in Quezaltenango a sufficient 
force to guard against contingencies, he marched 
onwards to the conquest of Guatemala. Alvarado 
encamped on one of the plains in front of the 
heights of Tzaktzikinel, and made several demon- 
strations of attack, with the hopes of inducing the 



455 

Kachiqiiels to submit without a battle ; he also 
sent twice to the 2 kings, oflfering them terms of 
peace; but these were contemptuously rejected 
and the messengers ill-treated. After this the Spa- 
niards were repeatedly attacked by the rebels, 
and a series of battles and skirmishes ensued for 
several days, in the last of which they succeeded 
in penetrating into the Patinamit capital; this was 
an arduous, as well as dangerous exploit, for it 
could only be approached by a narrow causeway 
formed of timber: success did not, however, se-^ 
cure the victory, as the caciques retired with their 
soldiers to the recesses of the lofty mountains of 
Nimache. In these places they were strongly 
posted, and all the declivities of the heights thickly 
covered with well-armed defenders. The Spaniards 
advanced to the base of the mountains, and pitched 
their camp in full view of the enemy, who con- 
tinually defied them by shouts, and contemptuous 
taunts, frequently detaching large masses of rock, 
which rolling down the steeps with dreadful vio- 
lence and noise, placed the besiegers in no small 
degree of danger. Alvarado several times offered 
the besieged favourable terms of peace, but they 
were always refused indignantly ; 2 months had 
now elapsed since he began the siege, and there 
being, as yet no prospect of surrender; an assault 
was determined upon, previous to which the ge- 
neral once more offered Ahpotzotzil terms ; he 
however continued obstinate, tore the letter, and 
ordered the messenger to be put to death, which 
would have been speedily done, had he not im- 
mediately given a preconcerted signal for the at- 
tack. The Spaniards instantly advanced, and 
clambering up the steep precipices with incre- 



456 

dible activity, were fortunate enough to seize 
Ahpotzotzil in his fortress ; a party went in pur- 
suit of Ahpoxahil, and found him also, before he 
could make his escape ; the 2 monarchs thus 
made prisoners, secured the victory, and com- 
pleted the final subjugation of the Kachiquel 
nation. This exploit was achieved on St. Cecilia's 
day, November 22, 1526, and has been comme- 
morated by selecting that day for the celebration 
of several of the most important events in the 
annals of the city of Guatemala. 



CHAP. XLIV. 

The Conquest of the Mam Indians. 

About the middle of the year, 1525, when Pe- 
dro de Alvarado returned from the conquest of 
the eastern and southern provinces, the King Se- 
quechul, with many other princes of his family, 
came to welcome him, bringing a large quantity 
of gold and emeralds as a present. (Xecul MS. 
title Apopqueham, fol. 15.) In the conversations 
he held with the general, he endeavoured to 
exculpate his father, Chignauivcelut, from the 
charge of treachery that had been made against 
him, and to throw the odium of the rebellion upon 
the Mams : he said, that the insurrection in 1524, 
was not occasioned so much by his father, as had 
been generally reported, as it was by Caibilbalam, 
cacique of the Mams, who had instigated him to 
burn all the Spaniards who were within the walls 
of the city of Utatlan, "- And if you desire," 
said he, '* to chastise him for his crime, I will be 
your guide, and by the death of this criminal 



457 

you will obtain iininense treasures, and an exten- 
sive province." This was a welcome proposal to 
Alvarado, as he was very desirous of extending 
his conquests : to which might be added the no- 
velty of the enterprise, as he was until then, en- 
tirely ignorant of such a province, and such a 
people in the kingdom ; for when he traversed 
the province of Soconusco, he left this district 
much to the northward. He immediately assem- 
bled his principal officers, and mentioned Seque- 
chul's proposal ; he also demonstrated the impor- 
tant advantages that would result from having 
possession of that province, as the numerous vil- 
lages which it contained, would insure to them in- 
dividually, an abundant spoil ; increase the pos- 
sessions of the crown ; and what was still more 
interesting, it would greatly extend the Christian 
faith, and spread the knowledge of the Supreme 
Being among a multitude of barbarians. The 
proposition was unanimously approved by them, 
and arrangements were speedily made for the ex- 
pedition : Gonzalo de Alvarado was appointed 
to the chief command: 80 Spanish infantry, under 
the captains Antonio de Salazar, and Francisco 
de Arevalo ; 40 cavalry, under Alonzo Gomez 
de Loarca ; 2000 Tlascaltecan, Mexican, Uzma- 
tecan, Cholutecan, Quezaltecan, and Kachiquel 
Indians, under the command of George de Acu- 
iia, Pedro de Arragon, Bernardino de Oviedo, 
and Juan de Verastigui ; 300 Indian pioneers, 
with hatchets and spades, and a sufficient number 
of Indians for transporting the provisions and 
baggage, formed the whole strength of the expe- 
dition. In the beginning of July, 1525, Gonzalo 
de Alvarado, one of the most accomplished sol- 



458 

diers of his time, marched with this detachment 
from Guatemala, towards the large town of To- 
tonicapan ; which being near the confines of the 
Mam territory, and in a country producing maize 
in abundance, was judged to be a convenient 
place for establishing his magazines of provisions. 
Nearly 8 days were occupied in crossing the chain 
of mountains that runs between Totonicapan and 
the Rio Honda, from their great elevation and as- 
perities, continued rains, and rising of the rivers. 
He was detained 2 days before he could pass the 
river, which, though small at other seasons, was 
then so much swollen by torrents from the moun- 
tains, as not to be fordable. (Quiche MS. fol. 9.) 
On reaching the plain, where the village of Maza- 
tenango is now situated, he was impeded by a 
broad swamp, on the opposite side of which there 
was a strong rampart, constructed of large tim 
bers, with a solid terreplein, formed of clay and 
straw, and upon it an immense number of the 
Mam Indians was drawn up in order of battle : 
these, by their shouts and gestures of defiance, 
provoked the Spaniards to a combat, in the hopes 
of drawing them into a swamp, where they would 
undoubtedly have suffered great loss ; but fortu- 
nately, the Quezaltecan and Sequechul guides 
warned Alvarado of the danger, and conducted 
the troops, by a circuit, towards the north, by 
which they approached the rampart; and on 
coming within reach of the enemy's missiles, 
were received by a shower of arrows, stones, and 
pikes, so that they were constrained to commence 
action with the Indians without halting, and to 
maintain it for a long time. Alvarado animated 
his soldiers, by representing to them how greatly 



459 

the service of God, and their national honour, 
were interested on the present occasion, and sub- 
sequently gave orders to attack the rampart: the 
Spaniards met with a very obstinate resistance 
from those who defended it; but Gomez de Lo- 
arca, making a vigorous charge against it with the 
cavalry, brought part of the work to the ground ; 
and opened a breach sufficiently wide to admit of 
the infantry, as well as the horses getting within 
the enemy's defences. They still maintained their 
ground with great courage; but being unable 
long to resist the weight of the cavalry, and fire- 
arms of the infantry, were compelled to surren- 
der, after sustaining great loss both in killed and 
wounded. On obtaining this victory, a sufficient 
force was posted in the village of Mazatenango, 
and the army continued its march. 

The troops had advanced but a short distance 
beyond the rampart, when the sound of the In- 
dians' warlike music attracted their attention, and 
they soon discovered a body of about 5000 armed 
men approaching: Alvarado rapidly pushed on 
to take advantage of more open ground for at- 
tacking these well-arranged squadrons of Mala- 
catan Indians, and the cavalry making a charge 
npon the vanguard of archers, immediately dis- 
persed them : they at first attempted to resist the 
horses, but as they had never before fought 
against animals, except in the chace, they were 
greatly astonished at their strength; and not 
knowing where to shelter themselves from the 
lances of the riders, ran under the horses' bellies, 
and many of them were kicked and trampled to 
death. Although the archers were unable to re- 
sist the cavalry, a battalion armed with pikes 



460 

stood their ground and fought bravely, until the 
dispersed archers rallied and discharged another 
shower of arrows, stones, and pikes ; as the fury 
of the battle increased, the obstinacy and intre- 
pidity of the Indians seemed to rise in proportion 
to the severity of their losses ; they rushed on to 
the very points of the lances and swords, and con- 
tinued their discharges of arrows and stones with 
the greatest resolution ; the Spaniards found it no 
easy task to sustain the combat, exhausted as they 
were and severely contused by the stones. An- 
tonio de Salazar perceiving the fatigue of his sol- 
diers, and the ineffective manner in which they 
used their weapons, endeavoured to encourage 
them by his own example, and addressed them 
thus, " Where is your former valour, brave Cas- 
tillans ? Accustomed as you have been to conquer 
in the arduous and bloody battles of Mexico and 
Utatlan, why does your courage now fail ? If you 
then fought to acquire fame, you must now fight 
to preserve it, and defend your lives ; call to mind 
your former victories, and do not now suffer them 
to be tarnished with defeat, or yourselves to be 
slain like victims by these barbarian infidels." 
Such was the courage infused into the soldiers by 
this reminiscence of their passed exploits, that 
they renewed the battle with all their accustomed 
ardour, and piercing the enemy's ranks, made 
dreadful slaughter among them. The brave In- 
dians maintained the contest with unabated cou- 
rage; Alvarado had observed an Indian chief, 
distinguished by a large plume and other insignia, 
who seemed to animate and infuse spirits into his 
soldiers, and direct all their movements ; this 
leader he resolved to encounter personally, and 



461 

on the first favourable opportunity set spurs to 
his horse, and urging at full speed against the ca- 
cique (Canilacab), pierced him with his lance, 
and laid him dead on the field. By this loss the 
Indians were dispirited and thrown into confu- 
sion ; they turned their backs and fled, leaving a 
great number of slain behind them : the Spaniards 
followed them as far as the village of Malacatan. 
At this place Alvarado received an embassy from 
the chiefs, bringing a present of gold, to sue for 
peace and friendship. (Quiche MS. fol. 10.) He 
received the miserable remnant of the people of 
Malacatan with kindness, and leaving a suitable 
garrison in the place, advanced to the large town 
of Gueguetenango. 

This capital of the Mams was found entirely 
deserted. There were neither inhabitants, pro- 
visions, nor furniture in the houses, many of 
which were in ruins. The army halted here for 
some time, the commander sending out separate 
troops of cavalry to scour the country in differ- 
ent directions : one of these detachments, com- 
manded by Gaspar Aleman, fell in with 300 In- 
dian archers, who, on hearing the noise of the 
horses, put themselves into a posture of defence, 
and gallantly defended themselves a long time : 
but several having been killed, and many others 
wounded, they gave up the contest, and endea- 
voured to escape by flight. Aleman was greatly 
exasperated by a wound he had received in the 
face, followed them, and made 3 prisoners, one of 
whom was the chief, called Sahquiab. This per- 
son, when he was brought to Alvarado, informed 
him that he was one of the leaders in Caibilbalam's 
army, and that that sovereign, on hearing of the 



462 

arrival of the white strangers had retired, with 
all his court, to the strong fortress of Socoleo, 
where he had a very strong garrison, with plenty 
of provisions, and was well supplied with all kind 
of warlike necessaries. Alvarado, in obedience 
to the Eaiperor's (Charles V.) commands^ sent a 
message to this monarch, by the prisoner, Sah- 
quiab, whom he instructed to say, that he wished 
to establish peace and perpetual friendship with 
the Indians, and the object of coming into their 
territory, was nothing more than to communicate 
to them a knowledge of the true God, of his holy 
laws, and religion. Sahquiab departed with this 
message, but neither he, nor some others who 
had been sent with him, returned in the course of 
the 3 following days with an answer : the ge- 
neral, however, did not, on this account, desist 
from repeating his offers of peace ; he sent other 
messengers, of the Utatecan nation, under the 
guidance of a prisoner, but Caibilbalan refusing 
to give them an audience, they were driven away 
with great violence. The conduct of the Indian 
prince excited the anger of Alvarado, and he is- 
sued orders for the army to march immediately 
for Socoleo. This was one of the most celebrated 
fortresses that the Indians possessed ; it was 
built by the cacique Lahuhquieh, to defend his 
possessions against the incursions of the Quiche 
monarchs. Fuentes, who wrote his history about 
the year 1695, says, at that period a great part of 
this extraordinary place was standing, and he de- 
scribes it with great precision, after having per- 
sonally examined it. The situation of it was 
to the eastward of Gueguetenango, on a plain of 
about 12 miles in circumference; it was seated 



463 

close to the river Socoleo, from which it derives 
its name. The approach, as usual to such places, 
was by only one entrance, and that so narrow as 
scarcely to permit a horseman to pass it ; from 
the entrance, there ran on the right hand a pa- 
rapet, raised on the berm of the fosse, extending 
along nearly the whole of that side ; several ves- 
tiges of the counterscarp and curtain of the walls 
still remain, besides parts of other works, the use 
of which cannot now be easily discovered ; in a 
court-yard there stood some large columns, upon 
the capitals of which were placed quantities of 
pine-wood, that being set on fire, gave light at 
night to the surrounding neighbourhood. The 
citadel, or lofty cavalier, of this great fortification 
was in the form of a square graduated pyramid, 
rising 12 or 14 yards from the base to the plat- 
form on the top, which was sufiacient to admit of 
10 soldiers standing on each side ; the next step 
would accommodate a greater number, and the 
dimensions proportionably increased to the last, 
or 28th step. The steps were intersected in un- 
equal portions by parapets and curtains, render- 
ing the ascent to the top so extremely difficult, 
that Fuentes says, he attempted several times to 
reach the platform, but was unable to perform 
the task, until his Indian interpreter acted as his 
guide, and conducted him to the summit. The 
ruins of several buildings were then in existence; 
they appeared to have been intended as quarters 
for the soldiers ; were extremely well arranged, 
and distributed with due regard to proportion; 
between each 3 or 4 of these buildings there was a 
square court-yard paved with slabs, made of stifif 
clay, lime, and sand ; every part of the fortress was 



464 

constructed of hewn stone, in pieces of great size, 
as one which had been displaced measured 3 
yards in length, by 1 in breadth. Before the 
army reached this place, it was met by a body of 
6000 Mam, Cuilco, and Istaguacan Indians, who, 
on approaching within range of their weapons, 
discharged a shower of arrows and stones, which 
did great injury to the Indian allies, and many of 
the Spaniards received severe contusions from the 
stones, against which their quilted cotton jackets 
were not a sufficient defence, although they pro- 
tected the wearers from injury by the arrows. 
While the infantry were hotly engaged, the ca- 
valry charged the left wing of the enemy, and 
penetrated it in several places ; the foot and the 
Indians still pressing forward, caused much havoc 
in the ranks of their opponents, who having had 
upwards of 300 killed, and nearly all the rest 
wounded, sounded a retreat ; at this crisis they 
were reinforced by 2000 men, who had sallied 
from the fortress to their assistance ; but these 
had no sooner appeared on the field of battle, 
than they were charged and totally routed by the 
victorious Spaniards. In this battle, the Spa- 
niards obtained a very large booty in ornaments 
of gold and other valuables, at the cost of 40 of 
their allies killed, 8 Spaniards, and 3 horses 
wounded : Alvarado himself was among the 
latter. As the enemy had retreated into the for- 
tress, the Spanish general considered that the pos- 
session of the whole province must depend upon 
the surrender of that post. On communicating 
this opinion to his principal officers, they agreed 
unanimously that the siege of it ought to be vigo- 
rously prosecuted : in consequence of this reso- 



465 

lution, the army was broken into divisions^ and 
took up positions so as to form a cordon around 
the place. Two days passed, in which the be- 
siegers only stood on the defensive against the 
missiles of the besieged (MS. of Alvarado, in 
possession of Don Nicholas de Vides y Alvarado, 
one of his descendants). On the third day, as 
Diego Lopez de Villanueva, with 10 horsemen, 
was reconnoitring the country, he perceived a 
thick smoke on the opposite side of the river ; 
this induced him to pass it, which he effected 
with some difficulty, and was fortunate enough 
to surprise a magazine of provisions belonging 
to Caibilbalam, guarded by 300 bowmen, who 
were endeavouring to convey them into the for- 
tress; it proved a vahiable prize, affording the 
means of supplying the army for several days. 
As the place was circumvallated by a deep ra- 
vine, there was no way by which the walls could 
be approached. Alvarado therefore endeavoured 
to form a road over that part of the ditch where 
he conceived it would be practicable to enter by 
escalade : he employed a great number of In- 
dians, with pickaxes and shovels, and began to 
form a path of convenient breadth for his pur- 
pose, the Spaniards taking part in the work to 
animate the allies by their example : the besieged, 
perceiving that if this work should be accom- 
plished, it must inevitably ensure their ruin, en- 
deavoured to impede its progress by all the means 
in their power ; and the space between the walls 
and the ditch was immediately covered with 
slingers and others, armed with missiles, but as 
these could not reach the labourers, they received 
much greater injury from the musketry, than they 

2 H 



466 

were able to inflict. In full expectation of being 
able to reduce the fortress, the Spaniards carried 
on their work with energy^ until they disco- 
vered a force of 8000 Serran Indians directing 
their march towards Socoleo ; these were not en- 
cumbered with clothes or adorned with plumes, 
but painted and equipped like the wild Indians. 
In this emergency, Alvarado left his unfinished 
work before the fortress, with 400 Indians and 10 
chosen Spaniards, under Antonio de Salazar, to 
defend it, and forming the remainder of his troops 
into one body, advanced to meet the enemy, who 
were coming in search of him. The Serrans com- 
menced the attack with great valour, and conti- 
nued the battle with such extraordinary fury, 
that victory would most probably have crowned 
their efforts, if the Spaniards had not been pro- 
tected by their quilted cotton jackets, which 
broke the force of the arrows, besides having 
the advantage of fire-arms^ and being assisted by 
their horses and lances, which enabled them to 
penetrate the enemy's ranks, throw their troops 
into disorder, and finally to compel them to re- 
treat, leaving the field of battle covered with dead 
bodies. They would have been still more se- 
verely harassed in this battle, had not Salazar 
been fortunate enough to drive back the besieged, 
who attempted to make 2 sallies for the purpose 
of assisting their friends. After the decision 
of this encounter, the Spaniards were left at li- 
berty to resume the siege of Socoleo. Caibilba- 
lam began already to feel the want of men, from 
the severe losses he had sustained, and he also 
began to suffer from a scarcity of provisions ; in 
this dilemma he attempted to make his escape, 



467 

by passing, under cover of the night, along the 
inner edge of the ditch, escorted by some of his 
family and principal officers; but unfortunately 
he was observed by a guard under Juan de Pe- 
reda, going the rounds; the watch-word was de- 
manded, but no reply being made, an arrow was 
discharged from a cross-bow, by which Caibilba- 
1am was wounded in the arm ; on feeling himself 
hurt, the cacique returned into the place by the 
way he had quitted it; 1 of the officers who 
accompanied him was made prisoner. Pereda 
was much mortified at finding how narrowly the 
monarch himself had escaped falling into his 
hands. The month of October was now arrived, 
and the army having been 4 months in the field 
during a tempestuous winter, now began to suffer 
much from the severity of the cold ; the swampy 
nature of the ground occasioned fevers ; the health 
of the troops was much impaired; and, as Alva- 
rado had reason to fear another attack from the 
Indians, while his men were enfeebled by sick- 
ness, he sent those who were already disabled 
under a strong escort to Gueguetenango ; and in 
order to hasten his attack upon the place, desisted 
from forming the road, and employed hands to 
make a sufficient number of scaling ladders to 
attempt an escalade in several places at the same 
time, and large enough for 3 men to ascend to- 
gether. 

Caibilbalara was now reduced to the greatest 
extremity of distress ; his provisions were nearly 
exhausted, and even what remained was spoiled ; 
the Spaniards he knew had cleared the country ; 
every attempt he made to relieve his wants was 
always intercepted; his people began to die in 

2 H 2 



468 

great numbers from absolute famine, after having 
eaten the skins with which their shields were co« 
vered,and even some of the carcasses of thedead. 
Viewing all these miseries, the unhappy cacique 
resolved to redeem the lives of the survivors even 
at the price of his own liberty ; he held con- 
ferences with his officers and principal counsel- 
lors, who agreed with him that there was no 
other relief for their misfortunes than submission: 
he determined to request a suspension of arms ; 
which was readily granted, and he sent an Indian 
interpreter to say he was desirous of seeing the 
captain of the white men to adjust the condi- 
tions of a peace. A place midway between the 
gate of the fortress and the quarters of the ca- 
valry was pitched upon for the interview ; Alva- 
rado left the camp attended by Gomez de Loarca, 
Antonio de Salazar, Francisco de Arevalo, and 
12 other officers; at the sound of the Spanish 
trumpets the gates of the fortress were thrown 
open, and the cacique, attended by the principal 
personages of his court, advanced to the ap- 
pointed spot; as the 2 parties drew near each 
other, Alvarado dismounted, and hastened to- 
wards Caibilbalaoi with open arms; " Wishing," 
as he says in his MS. " to treat him in the begin- 
ning of our conference as a friend, I did every 
thing on my part to shew my friendship : as soon 
as he saw that I received him with kindness, 
tears started into his eyes ; his person bespoke 
his elevated rank, and he appeared to be about 
40 years of age." After exchanging civilities, the 
general blamed the cacique for having refused 
the offers of peace that had been made to him, 
and then changed his discourse to the subject of 



469 

religion. Caibilbalam said he should be glad to 
be instructed in the religion of the Christians, and 
was very willing to obey the king of Spain and 
all his subjects, on condition of being permitted 
to live in the fortress with those who had assisted 
him in the defence of it, because he apprehended 
injuries from the other Indians who were his ene- 
mies. To this Alvarado replied, that he and all 
his people must of necessity quit it without 
arms, and surrender themselves ; that the place 
must be occupied by himself and one half of his 
soldiers, for the purpose of taking possession of 
it, and the whole province in behalf of the king 
of Spain ; and until this was done he could not 
remove his camp. In this manner the fortress 
was delivered up, the defence of which Alvarado 
asserts had cost the Indians 1800 lives. After 
possession had been taken, the general ordered 
the country and all the places that had been sub- 
ject to Caibilbalam to be examined ; he directed 
the stone gate that secured the entrance to the 
town to be broken, the ditch surrounding it to be 
levelled, and leaving a strong garrison in Guegue- 
tenango, under the command of Gonzalo de Solis, 
set out on his return to Guatemala. 



CHAP. XLV. 

The Capture of the Fortress of TJspantdn, 

San Miguel Uspantan is now an incon- 
siderable village with a very trifling population, 
situated on the borders of the provinces of Toto- 
nicapan and Verapaz ; but at the period of the 
conquest it was a town of great importance, the 



470 

capital of a powerful cacique, and the chief place 
of the territory of Sacapulas. Five years had 
elapsed after the Spaniards entered the kingdom 
of Guatemala before they thought of subjugating 
the Indians of Uspantan; these were fierce moun- 
taineers, who continually harassed them in their 
different expeditions. In the year 1529, it was 
determined by the cabildo (lib. 1, old fol. 72,) to 
undertake the reduction of this district, and Gas- 
par de Arias, that year ordinary alcalde of Gua- 
temala, was appointed to command the expedi- 
tion ; the force assigned to him for that purpose 
consisted of 60 Spanish infantry, and 300 well- 
disciplined Indians. The motive for such an under- 
taking originated in the fears of the members of 
the cabildo, who judged it imprudent to allow a 
range of mountains, in which there were many 
villages inhabited by a race of fierce and warlike 
Indians, to remain unsubdued, particularly as 
they were incessantly exciting the Quiches, who 
w^ere already subjugated, to revolt. Arias had 
consumed more than 6 months in his operations, 
which he carried on through a tempestuous winter, 
and had achieved the conquest of several strong 
places occupied by a numerous population, 
and extremely valuable from the fertility of the 
territory belonging to them, when he at last found 
himself under the walls of Uspantan in the month 
of September, 1529. At this time he received in- 
telligence that the inspector Ord una had dismissed 
him from the office of alcalde, and appointed an- 
other person to it (lib. 1, fol. 109). Indignant at 
this proceeding, Arias, who was peculiarly jealous 
of his reputation and honour, resigned the com- 
mand to Pedro de Olmos, an officer whom he 



471 

judged competent to so important a command; 
having invested him with the requisite powers, 
and delivered the necessary instructions, he set 
out for Guatemala to defend his own rights and 
maintain his character; this was a hasty measure 
which lost him all that he had previously ac- 
quired by his arms, and exposed him to affronts 
still greater than what he had already received. 

Pedro de Olraos, either from inexperience, or 
from an obstinacy sometimes peculiar to men un- 
expectedly invested with authority, determined^ in 
opposition to the opinions and advice of his of- 
ficers, to attack the town of Uspantan, although 
he knew it to be strongly fortified and well gar- 
risoned ; and was also aware of an ambush of 
2000 men, who, at the moment of his moving to 
the assault, fell upon his rear, and made great 
havoc among the Indians, wounding also many 
of the Spaniards, among whom was Olmos him- 
self. To render this affair still more disastrous, 
many of the Indian allies were made prisoners, and 
sacrificed by those of Uspantan, who (without pre- 
viously killing them) tore out their hearts, which 
were presented as an offering to the idol Esbalan- 
quen. Terrified by this act of cruelty, the In- 
dians abandoned the camp, taking the road to 
Guatemala; and although Juan de Leon Car- 
dona, the governor of Quiche, met them and 
stopped their flight, it rendered but little service 
to the Spaniards, who, laden with their baggage 
and remaining provisions, had cut their way 
through several bodies of Indians, and were in 
full retreat towards Guatemala. On passing Chi- 
chicastenango their progress was impeded by 
3000 Uspantan warriors; a furious battle ensued, 



472 

the Spaniards were obliged to abandon their pro- 
visions and baggage, and save themselves by a 
speedy retreat : after a march of great fatigue and 
hardship they reached Utatlan almost famished, 
and suffering much from fevers and dysentery. 

As soon as Orduiia heard of the disastrous ter- 
mination of the expedition, he endeavoured to re- 
pair the misfortune, but this he could not readily 
effect ; for as the members of government were 
divided into political parties, and the major part 
of them exasperated against him, on account of 
his conduct to Arias, he was unable to levy the 
necessary forces. The inspector could easily per- 
ceive he was viewed in an unfavourable light by 
the nobility, and not more respected by the com- 
mon people; and being conscientiously aware 
that the failure of the enterprise against Uspantan 
had been mainly brought about by his proceed- 
ings, he was greatly embarrassed as to the choice 
of future measures ; contriving at length to bring 
over to his party the treasurer, Francisco de 
Castellanos, a man of excellent character and 
great bravery, he communicated to him an in- 
tention of once more attempting the conquest of 
Uspantan; this person he appointed to the com- 
mand of the expedition, giving out at the same 
time that he would accompany it in person, with 
the view of stimulating the people to enlist for the 
service; the plan did not succeed to his expecta- 
tion, for not more than 40 Spanish infantry and 32 
horsemen joined his standard^ and these with 400 
Tlascaltecan and Mexican Indians, commanded 
by 8 Spaniards, departed for Uspantan. On ar- 
riving at Chichicastinango, the detachment halted, 
and Orduna sent forward messengers to Uspantan, 



473 

who, after encountering many difficulties and 
some dangers, arrived at the place, and commu- 
nicated their business to the principal Indians, 
who, without hesitation, rejected the proposals of 
peace, and put the emissaries to death. When 
this act of cruelty was known to the Spaniards, 
they determined upon a war of extermination, or 
unconditional surrender, and Castellanos imme- 
diately pushed on with the greater part of the 
troops, leaving Orduna and a strong escort in 
Chichicastenango, from which place he intended 
to transmit his orders, and send forward the neces- 
sary succours ; but falling sick soon afterward, 
he returned to Guatemala. 

The detachment directed its march to the town 
of Nebah, by a difficult route through thick woods, 
and over rugged mountains; on reaching the river 
of Sacapulas, then very deep and rapid, they were 
forced to march along its banks more than half a 
league before they could find a part sufficiently 
narrow to cross ; this they effected by con- 
structing a bridge of strong timbers, and gaining 
the opposite shore, began to ascend a height; 
upon the top of which was posted a body of from 
4 to 5000 mountain Indians of Nebah, and other 
towns upon the range of Verapaz. (Quiche MS. 
fol. 3.) The advanced party of this body was 
immediately attacked by the cavalry, and driven 
in with some loss ; the whole then retreated a 
considerable distance, and doubled a projecting 
point of the mountain, where they made a stand 
to receive their assailants : at this place an obsti- 
nate battle was fought, which terminated by the 
Indians being forced to abandon the post. On 
arriving at the town of Nebah, the Spaniards 



474 

found it entirely circumvallated by a deep ravine ; 
as its defenders saw them advance, they all press- 
ed to the entrance of the town, in order to oppose 
their assailants at that point, and left the other 
parts undefended, as they trusted to the depth 
and precipitous nature of the ravine for protec- 
tion : the Indian allies taking advantage of this 
neglect, descended into the ravine^ and clambering 
up on the other side with great agility, by the 
assistance of the trees and underwood, set the 
town on fire in several places; in the interval the 
Spaniards having crossed the ravine, soon made 
themselves masters of the place, and took several 
of the principal leaders prisoners : on the follow- 
ing day the inhabitants of Nebah were branded 
as slaves, and the news of their disasters occa- 
sioned the immediate surrender of Chahul. 

The people of Uspantan, however, remained 
resolute; and as they had 10,000 warriors for the 
defence of the place, besides the auxiliary troops 
from Verapaz, Cunen, Colzal, and the territory 
of Sacapulas, amounting to as many more, they 
sometimes made sorties to harass their opponents, 
and then shut themselves up again within the in- 
trenchments, in hopes of tiring the patience of the 
Spaniards by delay; and when they thought 
them weakened and exhausted by so long a cam- 
paign, came boldly out to attack. To resist this 
numerous army, the general divided the infan- 
try into 2 companies, and stationed the cavalry 
in the centre : at the moment of attack the horse 
kept a position in front; the 2 companies quickly 
turned each flank of the enemy, and placed them 
between 2 fires ; the battle was neither long nor 
doubtful ; as the Indians could not escape the 



475 

effect of the fire-arnis, they were quickly broken 
and routed with dreadful slaughter; great num- 
bers belonging to different towns and villages were 
made prisoners, and detained as hostages for the 
surrender of the places to which they respectively 
belonged, and which speedily followed. This 
memorable victory was gained at the latter end of 
December, 1530, all the prisoners were branded 
and kept as slaves. — (Fuentes, torn. 2, lib. 8, cap. 
6 and 7.) 



CHAP. XLVI. 

Description of the Valley of Guatemala. 

The celebrated valley of Guatemala, known 
also by the name of Pasuya, is divided into 9 dis- 
tricts, also called valleys ; they contain 73 vil- 
lages, 2 towns, and the city of Guatemala. The 
Indian inhabitants of these valleys are very indus- 
trious, and furnish the capital with every neces- 
sary of life, and many of its luxuries; either from 
the produce of their own lands, or obtained by 
them from other districts ; in the sale of these ar- 
ticles they carry on an extensive commerce, en- 
joying all the advantages arising from mercantile 
industry. The Ladinos are in general agricul- 
turists, some raise wheat, others maize : a few are 
artisans, and others carriers. The first of these 
valleys is that properly called the valley of Gua- 
temala; comprehending the whole of the plain 
on which Old Guatemala stands, and all the 
mountains that surround it; the city is nearly 
in the centre of the plain, encompassed by 11 
suburbs, and these are environed by no less than 



476 

31 villages, the most distant of which is not 2 
leagues from the city; some of them are on the 
plain, others on the declivities of the mountains. On 
the east there are, Santa Ines, Santa Ana, Santa 
Isabel, St. Cristoval, Upper and Lower; St. Juan 
del Obispo, on the south-east; Santa Catalina 
Bobadilla, St. Gaspar, St. Lucas, St. Miguel, and 
Almolonga on the south; St. Miguel Milpa 
Duenas, Santa Catarina, St. Andres, St. Antonio 
Aguas Calientes, St. Lorenzo, and St. Jago, on 
the south-west ; St. Andres Dean, and St. Bar- 
tolome on the west; St. Dionisio Pastores, and 
St. Luis de las Carretas on the north-east ; Jo- 
cotenango, Utateca, and St. Felipe, on the north; 
St. Tomas, St. Mateo, St. Miguel, St. Bartolome 
Milpas-altas, Santa Lucia, and la Magdalena on 
the north-east. This valley is surrounded by the 
others, having those of Chimaltenango and Xilote- 
peque, on the north ; that of Petapa on the east 
and south ; and Alotenango on the west. The in- 
habitants of the city derive many advantages from 
these numerous places ; besides the supply of 
every kind of provisions, they draw plenty of 
hands for their different works and manufactories. 
If a person is in want of bricklayers, he is sure to 
find them at locotenango, Santa Ana, and St. 
Gaspar; masons at St. Cristoval the Lower; gar- 
deners at St. Pedro de las Huertas; bakers at 
Santa Ana; and butchers at Santa Isabel. The 
inhabitants of Almolonga supply the city with 
fruit of all kinds, either the growth of their own 
gardens, or procured from other villages towards 
the mountains, or the sea-shore ; Almolongo, and 
Upper St. Cristoval, furnish all kinds of flowers ; 
St. Gaspar and Almolonga, used to supply the 



477 

city with pulque or maguey wine,* until the go- 
vernor Andres de las Navas, prohibited the traffic 
under pain of exconnraunication. The people of 
St. Pedro de las Huertas^ send cauliflowers^ cab- 
bages, onions, and every other description of gar- 
den vegetables. Wood, coals, and similar articles 
of domestic necessity^ are brought from the other 
villages. 

The present inhabitants are indebted to the 
original conquerors for this succession of villages; 

* The maguey is one of the most useful and valuable trees that 
the American soil produces ; it is a strong thorny bush, and 
forms an excellent enclosure for gardens ; it extends about 6 
yards in circumference, and is formed of strong stems about a 
yard long, 4 or 5 inches thick towards the ground, tapering to 
the top, which terminates in a sharp thorny point almost as hard 
as steel ; from the centre of the bush rises a large head of a 
conical shape, formed of several stems : when this head has ar- 
rived at its full perfection, the stem is cut off near the foot; and 
the heart of the standing part hollowed into the form of a cup; 
the cavity, sometimes nearly a quarter of a yard in diameter, is 
every morning for some time, found full of pulque. This liquor 
possesses various qualities, and produces different effects ; when 
taken from the cavity it is sweet and of a purgative quality ; 
the second day it is less sweet ; on the third day it grows acid, 
and is then drank as an agreeable beverage ; it grows more and 
more acid each day, and on arriving at a certain degree acquires 
an intoxicating quality ; in its different degrees of acidity it is 
an excellent remedy in various complaints. The maguey wine 
may be made into excellent vinegar, and by distillation affords 
a superior sort of brandy ; the stems are reduced to threads 
from which a species of linen for clothing is made ; and from 
the same substance a very durable cordage for shipping, and 
even cables are manufactured, in all respects superior to 
those made of hemp. From the stems, the Indians anciently 
fabricated a sort of paper, and Fuentes asserts that he saw 7 
petitions presented to the cabildo, all written upon this paper. 
The Indians use the thorns instead of pins, and cover their huts 
with the branches ; from the stems a food called mazcal is 
made, which some people use from preference, and others me- 
dicinally, as it is gently purgative. If the stems be burned 
while green, and the sap expressed upon any wound, it will 
cure it with great celerity. 



478 

as they were all desirous of forming an establish- 
ment upon the lots that fell to them, on a division 
of the lan^ds in the valley. It appears from the 
records of the cabildo, that at the time the city 
was founded, or soon after, this distribution was 
made; but in the cabildo held on the 18th of 
April, 1528, it was determined to equalize it, be- 
cause some of the inhabitants possessed large por- 
tions, while others had none at all ; for the sake 
of regularity, the whole valley was divided into 
lots, called Cahellerias and Peonerias ; the former 
1000 paces long, and 600 broad, the latter half 
that quantity. To a horse soldier a caballeria was 
given, and a foot soldier obtained a peoneria; but 
due regard was paid to the persons, and the nature 
of their services in increasing or diminishing this 
portion. These lots were laid out by the original 
possessors, some as maize fields, others as gardens, 
and for various agricultural labours, in the produce 
of which they carried on a considerable traffic. At 
this period there were great numbers of the unre- 
claimed natives wandering about in the forests, 
and on the mountains, without any kind of sub- 
jection or government, who were very detrimental 
to those who had been already converted. The 
Spaniards, desirous of applying a remedy to 
this evil, began to devise means of collecting 
them together, and establishing them in small 
villages ; this design was still farther promoted 
by various edicts from the king, particularly 
one dated 10th of June, 1540, which especially 
ordered that all methods should be tried to 
induce the Indians to live in societies, and form 
villages; to accomplish more effectually the im- 
portant object of civilizing and instructing them. 



479 

As the wild Indians disregarded all the friendly 
offers that were made to them, and shewed but 
little inclination to listen to the preaching of the 
missionaries, the governor gave permission to hunt 
them out of their retreats; in consequence the 
officers each taking 10 or 12 soldiers, sallied 
forth on the darkest nights, conducted by expert 
guides to an Indian hovel^ where they frequently 
seized 6, 8, or 10 Indians whom they brought 
home and placed on their maize plantations, and 
other works, under the superintendance of careful 
persons ; these excursions were repeated until 
60^ 80, 200, 300, or even greater numbers, were 
got together and formed into a village, on which 
was usually bestowed the name of the saint of the 
proprietor's peculiar devotion, with the addition 
of the surname of his family. Thus Luis de Bivar 
established that called St. Gaspar Bivar ; Ignacio 
de Bobadilla, Santa Catarina Bobadilla; Juan de 
Carmona, St. Bartolome Carmona; Diego Monroy, 
St, Lorenzo Monroy; Alonzo de Zamora, esta- 
blished the village of Santiago Zamora, at a place 
where he used to wash the soil to find gold; 
Sancho Baraona, Santa Catarina Baraono ; Juan 
de Escobar, St. Miguel Escobar; Bartolome Be- 
cerra, that of St. Bartolome Becerra ; Fracisco 
Monterroso, Santa Lucia Monterroso Gascon de 
Guzman ; St. Juan Gazcon (not Padre Juan Gaz- 
con as Remesal says), the Padre Juan Godinez, 
that of Santa Lsabel Godinez ; and Gabriel Cabrera, 
that of St. Lucas Cabrera.*' Several others are 
designated by the dignity or office held by their 

* The village of St. Lucas Cabrera is also called St. Lucas 
Ychanzuquit, a word in the Pipil language, signifying " the 
house of mud," it derives this appellative from some wells at the 



480 

original founders, as St. Juan del Obispo, settled 
by the bishop Francisco de Marroquin ; St. An- 
dres Dean, founded by Juan Alonso, dean of the 
cathedral; and St. Pedro Tesorero, established 
by the treasurer Pedro de Becerra. Some of the 
villages of this valley have a different origin from 
those already mentioned, as Almolonga, which 
was settled by the Mexican, Tlascaltecan, and 
Cholutecan Indians, who accompanied Alvarado 
in his conquests, and afterward domiciliated 
themselves near Tzacualpa, w^hen the Spaniards 
founded the city of Guatemala, and remained in 
that position after the city itself was dismantled. 
These Indians having served with great bravery 
and fidelity in the conquest of the kingdom, the 
king of Spain issued an order on the 20th of July, 
1532^ exempting them from the obligations of all 
farther personal service. They have now 2 com-' 
panics of militia, the commandants and officers 
of which are chosen from the principal men of 
their respective nations. The village of San- 
tiago Utateca, now united to Jocotenango, was 
a farm belonging to Pedro de Alvarado, as ap- 
pears from a clause in his will (Remesal. lib. 4, 
cap. 7, no. 4, fol. 180); it is said he assembled 
the chiefs of the Indian villages, which were 
his feoffs, and requested that a certain number of 
families might be sent from each, to be settled on 
the farm; by the clause alluded to he declared 
them free, and bequeathed to them the lands which 
they occupied ; as the original settlers came from 
Utatlau, the place received the name of Utateca. 

place, in which if any kind of linen be laid for 3 or 4 days, it 
will be dyed a most beautiful black, and the colour so durable 
ihat it cannot be discharged. 



481 

After the destruction of the first city of Guatemala 
in 1541, the Spaniards removed into the valley of 
Panchoi, and the Kachiquel Indians who were 
settled at Tzacualpa, conceived it necessary to 
change their place of residence in imitation of 
them ; the governors of the city did not object to 
this removal, and granted a spot of ground that 
had been a mining establishment belonging to 
Pedro de Alvarado, where they built the village 
of Jocotenango, they were afterward joined by 
the people of Utatlan ; but the 2 nations always 
kept themselves distinct from each other. Alva- 
rado formed 3 other establishments, one called 
San Miguel Milpa Dueiias, from being built at a 
place where he had ordered a portion of land to 
be cultivated, and sown with maize for the benefit 
of the widows of his soldiers, and it was peopled 
by the Indians who worked on the lands.'^ San 
Dionisio Pastores is said to have received its name 
from the inhabitants having been employed in at- 
tending Alvarado's flocks ; and St. Luis de las 
Carretas was so called because the inhabitants 
were chiefly cartwrights, and had charge of all 
the carriages kept by the city for public use. 

2. The valley of Chimaltenango, is bounded on 
the south by that of Guatemala^ on the west by 
the province of Solola, on the east by the valley 
of Mixco, and on the north-east by that of Xilo- 
tepeque ; as the principal places in the valley of 
Pasuya have been already described in the former 
part of this work, under the heads of Chimaltenango 
and Sacatepeques, nothing more will be required 
here, than to mention the different boundaries of 

* Milpa is a general term given in Guatemala to land cul- 
tivated for grain. 

2 I 



482 

the districtKS that form the great valley of Guate- 
mala. 

3. The valley of Xilotepeque has that of Chi- 
maltenango on the vrest, Sacatepeqiies on the 
east, Mixco on the south-east, and Guatemala 
on the south-west. 

4. Thevalley of Sacatepeques terminates on the 
west at Xilotepeque, on the south at Mixco and 
Las Vacas, and on the north and east by the pro- 
vince of Chiquimula. 

5. The valley of Mixco has Sacatepeques and 
Xilotepeque on the north ; Guatemala and Pe- 
tapa on the west ; and Las Vacas on the south 
and east. 

6. The valley of Las Vacas is bounded on the 
north by the province of Chiquimula; on the 
west by Mixco and Petapa; on the south by 
Petapa ; and on the east by Canales. 

7. The valley of Canales abuts on Las Vacas 
to the west ; Petapa to the south ; and on the 
province of Chiquimula to the north-east. 

8. The valley of Mesas de Petapa joins Gua- 
temala on the west, Las Vacas on the east, Mixco 
on the north, and the province of Escuintla on 
the south. 

9. The valley of Alotenango is confined on the 
east by Guatemala, on the north by Chimalte- 
nango, on the west and south by the province of 
Escuintla. 

These 9 valleys compose the celebrated valley of 
Pasuya, or Guatemala, which is divided into 2 al- 
caldias mayors, viz. Chimalteuango, and Sacatepe- 
ques; the first comprises the 3 valleys of Chimalte- 
nango, Xilotepeque, and Alotenango; and the lat- 
ter the other 6. Within this circuit there were 



483 

formerly no less than 73 villages; but the present 
state of it is in some respects different; it now con- 
tains 3 towns, Old Guatemala, Petapa, and Zar- 
gossa : some of t4ie old villages have been aban- 
doned, as Carmona, St. Andres Dean, St. Barto- 
lome Becerra, and St. Lucas Cabrera, for example ; 
many others have been rebuilt in the vicinity of 
New Guatemala, as Jocotenango Almolonga, St. 
Pedro, St. Gaspar, Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe. 



CHAP. XLVII. 



Of some Remarkable Objects, ^c.in the Five 
Middle Provinces. 

The historian Herrera (tr. 3, dec. 4, fol. 221,) 
relates a circumstance of a very singular nature : 
he says, there is in the province of Chiapa a 
spring, which regularly flows during 3 years, 
and is then dry for a similar period, and thus al-^ 
ternately. The existence of this natural wonder, 
from being related by an author who wrote in a 
distant country, did not generally obtain belief, 
but the author of the present work has been as- 
sured, by a person upon whose veracity he can 
rely, that there is no cause to doubt the fact, 
as he had had ocular demonstration of it ; the 
spring is situated on the side of a mountain, about 
half a league distant from Ciudad Real: the ri- 
vulet, which has its origin at this fountain, fs 
called Yeixhihuiat, a Mexican word, implying 
" three years' water." At the expiration of the 
term of 3 years, the fountain drys up, and the 
waters burst forth at a distance of 5 leagues, near 
the road of Teopisca ; the natives of that village 
give this periodical spring the name of Ohx-avil- 

2 I 2 



484 

hii, which means, in the Tzendal language, the 
same as the Mexican name, or '' three years' water." 
After this spring has flowed for 3 years, it disap- 
pears, and the water rises again at the former 
place. 

Fnentes (torn. 2, lib. 8, cap. 15,) gives another 
instance of a similar fountain near Chiantla, which 
is distinguished by an additional feature of sin- 
gularity ; it flows, and is dry for 3 years alter- 
nately, but the waters appear and disappear in- 
variably on the eve of St. Michael, the 29th of 
September. This writer declares, that he had 
in his possession documents written by Diego 
de Rivas, other religieux of the order of La 
Merced, and several curates of unimpeachable 
character, attesting the fact which he relates. 
With a view to ascertain the correctness of this 
account, and whether the phenomenon yet ex- 
isted, the present writer obtained the favour of a 
reference on the subject, to a clergyman resident 
in the province, who, in reply, declared, that he 
had examined several old men of the village, 
all of whom assured him, with very little discre- 
pancy in their narratives, that in a hollow be- 
tween 2 mountains, about 3 leagues from Chi- 
antla, there is a rivulet which begins to flow 
on Michaelmas-day, and continues for 3 years, 
when it stops on the same day, and remains dry 
for 3 years ; and on this account the place is 
called St. Miguel. 

Fuentes also mentions another rivulet in a 
meadow to the northw^ard of Chiantla, called Hi- 
guero ; the water begins to flow 20 days before 
the periodical rains cease; and it becomes com- 
pletely dry 20 days before the rains begin. The 



485 

same author relates some other natural pheno- 
mena which he had observed in Totonicapan, dur- 
ing the period he was corregidor of that province; 
he says, that as he travelled from the village of 
Aguacatlan to St. Juan Ixcoy, the channel of a 
little stream was pointed out to him, which the 
Mam Indians call Xubanha, implying, *' water 
that is whistled for;" because, by whistling at the 
openings of some clefts in a solid rock, water will 
immediately gush forth, but of which there is no 
appearance, unless that method be used to exhibit 
it. He also speaks of a subterranean river, that 
shews itself through a large aperture, at the foot 
of a hill, about 2 miles from the village of Chial- 
chitan : at this spot a large quantity of water 
boils up, and at once forms a stream of consider- 
able magnitude. Another river, of a moderate 
size, falls into a deep pool, and disappears near 
a place called Rancho de las Minas, and rises 
again on the opposite side of a ridge of moun- 
tains near the River Socoleo. In the province of 
Totonicapan, there are several mountain streams, 
which, falling from lofty rocky eminences, form 
cascades of exquisite beauty : for instance, the 
fall of the River St. Christoval de Paula ; that on 
the road to the Ranches altos of Totonicapan ; 
those at the village of Guistla de los Xiotes, and 
many others. In the district of Totonicapan, at 
the villages of St. Bartolome aguas Calientes and 
Totonicapan, there are some remarkable warm 
springs, the waters of which are strongly im- 
pregnated with sulphur: that at the latter vil- 
lage, in particular, is so hot, that eggs, fruit, 
or even flesh put into it will be perfectly 
bailed in a short time ; in the rivulet which 



486 

runs from this spring, the weavers cleanse from 
grease the wool they employ in their looms : the 
others are of a lower temperature, and used as 
baths. 

The springs of salt-water at the village of St. 
Mateo Istatlan (a name signifying the land of 
salt), are yet more remarkable than the sulphuric 
waters. At the foot of a large mountain, there 
are several caverns penetrating about 2 yards 
into the rock ; from the roof of these the water 
continually exudes : if a vessel be filled with it, 
and placed over a slow fire at night, it will be 
found in the morning christalized into a fine salt, 
without any other process. The Indians are 
very economical in the distribution of this water, 
as the caverns are locked up, and the keys kept 
by the magistrate; they are opened only on 
Thursdays, at a fixed hour, when the people as- 
semble, and each person receives a pitcher full, 
except the magistrates, and those belonging to the 
church, who are entitled to double portions : they 
carry on considerable traffic in this article, which 
they sell in the adjacent provinces, and derive 
from it a sufficient emolument to enable them to 
live very comfortably. 

In the province of Quezaltenango, there are 
still to be met with the vestiges and foundations of 
many large fortresses, among which is the cele- 
brated one of Parrazquin, situated on the confines 
of Totonicapan and Quezaltenango ; and the ci- 
tadel of Olintepeque, formed with all the intrica- 
cies of a labyrinth, and which was the chief defence 
of the important city of Xelahuh. 

There are also in this district some unusual 
specimens in natural history : the most remark- 



- 487 

able of which is the bat-winged squirrel, found 
on the mountains, and in the woods of Quezalte- 
nango, Totonicapan, and Solola ; the figure and 
size of these little animals are those of the com- 
mon squirrel, but they have two small wings re- 
sembling those of the bat, without hair or other 
covering; they can, however, fly but a short dis- 
tance. 

In the province of Solola there are the remains 
of palaces, castles, and other edifices of the ex- 
tensive and opulent city of Utatlan ; but of these, 
and of the lake of Atitan, a description has 
been already given. Near the village of Atitan 
there is a mineral spring of sour water, that 
exudes, in the form of dew, from a rock, and 
trickles into a channel, forming a stream sufficient 
to fill small vessels; on account of its medicinal 
virtues, it is in great request, and sent to distant 
parts; it is an excellent remedy for gravelly com- 
plaints, and suppression of urine ; cures the swell- 
ings in the throat, so common in this kingdom, 
where the complaint is called bosio, and more 
vulgarly gUegiiecho ; it has a flavour resembling 
lemon, but it leaves no taste in the mouth. 

In the province of Chimaltenango, the River 
Pancacoya attracts attention ; it rises at the pass 
of Pasacab, in the district of Xilotepeque, and de- 
scends with great rapidity from a lofty rock ; but 
before reaching the plain, it passes through a con- 
duit formed in the rock, about a yard and a half 
wide, and sufficiently high for a man to pass 
through with ease : where this channel termi- 
nates, there is a range of columns curiously 
wrought, with capitals, mouldings, &c. ; and a 
little farther on there are several round cisterns 



488 

formed in the rock ; these are about a yard and a 
half in diameter, and nearly a yard in depth : there 
is no authentic account of the use for which they 
were employed ; but, according to tradition, this 
part of the river was a washing-place for gold, 
and it is supposed the cisterns were excavated 
for that purpose. 

The cavern of Mixco is in the valley of Xilo- 
tepeque, near the sitiiatioii where the ancient 
village of Mixco stood : the description of this 
place is taken from Fuentes (torn. 1, lib. 14, cap. 
2), and must be understood to refer to the period 
in which he wrote, that is, between 1690 and 
1700. On a small ridge of land on one side of 
the ruins of ancient Mixco, is the entrance to the 
cavern, about 3 yards each way ; the portico, 
formed of clay, is in some parts entire, and ap- 
pears to be of the Doric order. Fuentes says, 
he inquired of some of the old Indians how it 
had been contrived to give so great a consist- 
ency to the clay, and they informed him, it was 
done by grinding a quantity of onion-seed, and 
mixing it in the water with which the clay was 
tempered. From the entrance, a flight of 36 
stone steps, each of a single piece, descends to a 
lofty saloon, about 60 yards square ; from this 
chamber, the descent continues by another flight, 
beyond which nothing more is known, as no per- 
son sufficiently courageous, or imprudent enough 
to resist the indications of imminent danger 
from the tremulous motion of the ground under 
foot, has yet advanced more than a few paces. 
Descending 18 steps of this second flight, there 
is on the right hand another door- way, form- 
ing a perfect arch ; and having passed this, there 



489 

are 6 steps, in all respects similar to the for- 
mer, from which there is a passage about 140 
feet in length. Farther than this part it has not 
been explored ; many extraordinary accounts of it 
have been fabricated, but they are such as will 
not bear repeating. 

In the province of Sacatepeques, the most 
striking natural curiosity is the gigantic moun- 
tain, situated to the southward of old Guatemala, 
vulgarly^ and very erroneously, called the water 
volcano (Volcan de Agua.) This mountain is of 
a conical figure, the base of it extending over 
nearly all the western part of the valley of Gua- 
temala ; on the side towards the city, the ascent 
by the road, from the base to the summit, is 3 
leagues and a half; and from the side of Alote- 
nango, it is more than 4 leagues ; the circumfe- 
renceat the bottom isl8leagues. The coup-d'oeil of 
it is extremely agreeable from every point of sight, 
both from the figure and great variety of colours 
on its surface, some parts being well cultivated, 
and others covered with thickets ; on which 
side soever it is seen, it presents a diversified and 
delightful prospect. The productions of the soil 
are as various as they are useful, consisting of 
maize, pulse of all kinds, vegetables, an ad- 
mirable variety of flowers of every description, 
and abundance of excellent timber: cultivation 
is confined to the lower parts of the mountain, 
but were it extended farther upward the pro- 
duce of every kind would undoubtedly be more 
than double in quantity; the middle region is 
covered with thick forests, that would furnish 
an inexhaustible quantity of timber, fit for every, 
purpose. During great part of the summer, the 



490 

city is supplied with snow from the mountain, 
which also yields game of various sorts in profu- 
sion. On the skirts of it there are numerous mi- 
neral and medicinal springs, many Indian vil- 
lages, besides great number of detached houses 
and farms. On the summit, there is a concave 
space, resembling a crater, measuring about 140 
yards by 120 ; from the edge of this crater a most 
beautiful prospect presents itself in every direc- 
tion : Old Guatemala, with its fertile fields, and 
numerous farms, the village and lake of Amati- 
tan, with all the surrounding country, can be dis- 
tinctly seen ; very remote points of view are 
easily descried, more or less clearly in proportion 
to their distances : looking westward, the pro- 
vinces of Suchiltepeques, Soconusco, and even 
the plains of Chiapa may be discovered ; to the 
eastward, the provinces of Sonsonate, St. Ana 
Grande, and St. Salvador, with the lake of Gilo- 
pango, may be distinguished ; on the north and 
south, the view is bounded by the two oceans. 
This mountain stands between 2 volcanoes ; one 
on the eastward is called the volcano of Pacaya, 
and that to the w^estward the volcano of Guate- 
mala, or vulgarly the fire volcano; from each of 
these there have been formidable eruptions from 
time immemorial : the most remarkable since the 
arrival of the Spaniards, have been already parti- 
cularized. Besides these, there happened one at 
the close of the 18th century, of which no men- 
tion was made, as it was unattended with any 
injurious consequences; although it lasted se- 
veral days, the water of a spring on the side of 
Alotenango was observed to have been heated, 
during the eruption, to such a degree, that cattle 



491 

were unable to pass through the rivulet running 
from it. The latter mountain is situated to the 
south-west of Old Guatemala ; at the base, its 
figure is conical, but near the summit it is divided 
into 3 points, in the westernmost of which se- 
veral openings may be seen, that frequently emit 
flames, pumice stones, sand, and smoke. Pacaya 
stands to the eastward of the water volcano, 
and of Old Guatemala, but to the southward 
of the present capital, and 3 leagues from the 
village of Amatitan. This mountain is connected 
with a range that extends to a great distance ; 
like the last-mentioned, its summit is divided 
into 3 peaks; the surrounding country is thickly 
covered with volcanic matter, the accumulated 
produce of its numerous eruptions. Fuentes(tom. 
1, lib. 9, cap. 9,) says, that in his time there was 
scarcely a day throughout the year, in which one 
or the other of its lofty peaks did not emit 
flames. On the authority of the same author, we 
are informed of several eruptions of this moun- 
tain, viz. that of 1565, which caused the ruin and 
devastation to Old Guatemala and the neigh- 
bourhood, that has been already narrated ; the 
one on the 18th of February, 1651, when thick 
black smoke was emitted, with terrible noise and 
strong convulsions of the earth ; in 1664, such im- 
mense quantities of flames were vomited forth with 
the most appalling explosions, that, during the 
night, the city, at the distance of 7 leagues, was 
illuminated by a light not inferior to that of mid- 
day : the terror, from the vibrations of the earth, 
was so great, that the inhabitants were afraid to 
trust themselves within their houses during the 3 



49^2 

days of its continuance. Similar events occurred 
in 1668, in August, 1671, and July, 1677; but 
there are no records of any others after this au- 
thor's time, until that which took place on the 
11th of July, 1775, when, at day-break, without 
any previous noise, or any perceptible oscillation 
of the earth, a dense cloud of smoke was ob- 
served from Old Guatemala (where the writer of 
the present work was at that time), in the south- 
west direction, which arose from behind the 
range of mountains that concealed the volcano 
from the view ; to discover the flames, it was 
necessary to go to the village of Santa Maria de 
Jesus, whence could be distinguished the aper- 
ture through which they burst ; from this there 
arose a large column of thick smoke and vast 
quantities of burning stones, that fell again into 
the crater : sand was also thrown out in such 
abundance, that being carried by the wind, it fell 
so copiously in Old Guatemala, as to obscure the 
light of the sun, and thickly cover the ground ; the 
wind having changed, the sand was carried in a 
southerly direction as far as the provinces of Es- 
cuintla and Suchiltepeques. It was remarked 
on this occasion, that the eruption was not from 
either of the summits, but from the region where 
the mountain is divided into 3 peaks. 

In the valley of Petapa some human bones of 
gigantic size have been discovered, and Fuentes 
mentions, (tom. 1, lib. 9, cap. 1,) that Don Payo 
de Rivera carried away with him a tooth (dens 
molaris), which was found in this place, as large 
as a man's two fists. 

The valley of Las Vacas was the place where 



493 

neat cattle was first introduced into this country; 
that tract fell to the lot of Hector de Barreda, one 
of the original companions of Alvarado ; and as 
he observed there was a great want of cattle for 
food, he procured, at his own expense, a number 
of cows and bulls from the island of Cuba, which 
he pastured in the valley; the animals throve so 
well, and multiplied so fast, that they were soon 
dispersed over all parts of the kingdom : this cir- 
cumstance gave the name of Las Vacas (the cows) 
to the valley. It appears from the second book 
of the cabildos, on the 20th of July, 1530, it was 
ordered that for the celebration of the festival of 
St. Jago, a bull should be purchased ** from the 
herd of Barreda, for which 25 dollars of standard 
gold should be paid." 

At a short distance from the confines of Las 
Vacas, on its eastern side, runs the River Chorrera, 
which deserves notice from the petrifying quality 
of its waters, which act upon any kind of wood : if 
the root or branch of a tree fall so that a part of it 
lays in the water, the portion which is immersed 
becomes petrified into a substance of a shining 
white or gray colour, but the other part remains 
in its natural state ; and it is observed, that 
where the current of the water is rapid, the trans- 
formation is more speedily effected than in places 
where the stream is slow. The substance thus 
transformed always preserves the natural porosity 
and texture of its fibres. 

In the valley of Sacatepeques, near the village 
of St. Pedro, a mine of rubies was accidentally 
discovered in the year 1681, by Francisco de Paz 
y Quiiiones, a Dominican, then curate of St.Pedro : 



494 

as he was amusing himself one afternoon^ he di- 
rected his walk towards a pass in the mountain, 
through which ran a clear rivulet; he observed 
on the side of the bed of the river a vein of white 
clay, interspersed with red and black patches; 
being attracted by the variety and brilliance of 
the colours, and the reflections of small sparkling 
substances, he took up a part of the clay, which 
he carried to Guatemala, and gave to the licen- 
tiate, Christoval Martin, an intelligent man, 
conversant in the nature of metals, who having 
fused the mass that weighed 3 pounds, deli- 
vered to the curate on his return a piece of pure 
silver rather more than half an ochava in weight, 
(the ochava is 75 grains), and 7 rubies of the size 
of small beans. Fuentes bears testimony to this 
fact, and says he had in his hands the silver and 
the gems. A few days after the discovery, the 
curate was elected prior of the convent of Guate- 
mala, which obliged him to quit his curacy, and 
no more was heard of the mine. 

Many other very remarkable productions, both 
animal and vegetable, of these fine provinces might 
be mentioned ; but most of them are generally 
known to the natives of this country, and fo- 
reigners may obtain a description of them by 
consulting " Alcedo's Vocabulary of the Pro- 
vincial Words of America." The green chapuli, 
however, should not be passed over in silence ; 
this is a large grasshopper, or species of locust, 
about a span long, found near the villages of 
St. Christoval Amatitan and Pampichin, and is, 
certainly, one of the most extraordinary produc- 
tions of nature ; at the extremity of the tail it has 



495 

a sharp curved point like a thorn, which when 
become hard the animal has attained its full 
growth ; if killed in this state, and carefully 
opened, a small bunch of seeds (similar to those 
of the passion-flower) about an inch long, attached 
to ramifying fibres, is found in the intestines: 
these grains being sown, will produce a plant 
like the gourd, which will bear a fruit resembling 
small pompions, as yellow and brilliant as gold ; 
the seeds of which sown again, will bring forth 
similar fruit, but of much superior size. It cer- 
tainly appears at first view to be an incredible 
fact, that anj^ individual of the animal species 
should pass into that of the vegetable, and that a 
plant should be raised from an animal substance ; 
but we can undoubtedly observe in nature trans- 
formations not less admirable or extraordinary 
than this, and yet they do not appear to us pro- 
digious, only because they are common, and come 
frequently under our notice. We commonly wit- 
ness small reptiles thatj after enjoying for a little 
time an almost immovable existence, pass into the 
state of chrysalidae, in which existence appears 
extinct; after remaining several days, until the 
period of inanimation be fulfilled, they become 
beautiful butterflies, which by their fecundity re- 
produce myriads of beings similar to those from 
which they derived their own existence. If then 
an animal passes from the reptile to the volatic 
race, it will hardly be deemed impossible, that 
part of an animal may be converted into a seed, 
which being placed in the ground will produce a 
plant endowed with fecundity, like the butterfly, 
to increase and perpetuate its species. To this 



» 496 

may be added, that the greater part of animals 
have certain parts which are not sensitive, but 
merely vegetative, and in a manner vegetable ra- 
mifications springing from their bodies ; such as 
hair, feathers, nails, &c. which are in all respects 
comparable to the branches and foliage of trees ; 
is it then impossible, that some animals should 
produce from their intestines substances similar 
to the seeds of plants? Admitting the possibility 
of these propositions, reliance may be placed 
upon information communicated by men, upon 
whose veracity no doubt can rest; Francisco 
Fuentes has related the fact, and to be satisfied 
of its correctness only requires a reference to his 
works, in which he assures us, that Thomas de 
Melgar, a venerable priest, whose credit is un- 
impeachable, tried the experiment, and having 
sown the seeds, found the result to accord pre- 
cisely with that which has been related. 



497 



A Table of the Provinces and Districts of the 

Kingdoyn of Guatemala, with the Cities, Towns, 

and Villages in each, and number of Inhabitants y 

from a Census taken by Order of Government 

in i778. 



>;.2 



La Ciudad de Guatemala 
Province of Sacatepeques 
Province of Chimaltenango 
Province of Solola 
Province of Quezaltenango 
Province of Totonicapan 
Province of Chiquimula 
Province of Verapaz 
Province of Escuintla 
Province of Zonzonate 
Province of Suchiltepeques 
Province of St. Salvador 
Province of Leon . 
District of Matagalpa 
District of Realejo 
District of Subtiava . 
District of Nicoya 
Province of Ciudad Real 
Province of Soconusco 
Province of Tuxtla 
Province of Comayagua 
Province of Tegucigalpa 
Province of Costa-Rica 
District of Peten . 
Castles of St. Juan, St. Felipe, 
y Omoa. 



V 




t 


a 


•Jlj 


o 


~ 


rfl 


U 


H 


> 


1— 1 











23,434* 


1 


2 


48 


50,786 





1 


21 


40,082 








31 


27,953 








25 


28,563 








48 


51,272 








30 


52,423 


1 





14 


49,583 





1 


S3 


24,978 





1 


21 


29,248 








19 


17,535 


2 


4 


121 


117,436 


3 


4 


28 


68,929 








12 


19,955 





1 


3 


6,209 








5 


8,850 








1 


2,983 


I 


1 


56 


40,277 








20 


9,078 








SS 


19,898 


3 


1 


94 


56,275 





2 


23 


31,455 


1 


3 


10 


24,536 








9 


2,555 








00 


01,046 



Total 



12 21 705 805,339 



* The number of inhabitants of the city of New Guatemala, is in- 
serted from a census taken in 1795, and to the province of Sacatepe- 
ques 8000 have been added, being the present amount of population 
in Old Guatemala. 

2 K 



498 



An Alphabetical List of all the Cities, Towns, 
and Villages of the Kijigdom of Guatemala. 



Places. Bishopricks. 

Acacozagua Chiapa 

Acald, St. Pablo Chiapa 

Acapetagua Chiapa 

Acasaguastlan Guatemala 

St. Christoval Guatemala 

Acatan, St. Miguel Guatemala 

Acatenango Guatemala 

Acoyapa town Nicaragua 

Aculuaca Guatemala 

Agalteca Honduras 

Agalteca Honduras 

Aguacatan Guatemala 

Aguacatenango Chiapa 

Aguacatepeque ' Guatemala 

Aguachapan Guatemala 
Mineral springs 

— St. Andres Guatemala 

— St. Antonio Guatemala 

— St. Bartolome Guatemala 

— Santa Catarina Guatemala 

— St. Lorenzo Guatemala 

Aguanqueterique Honduras 

Ajuterique Honduras 

Alapa Honduras 

St. Alejo Vil Guatemala 
Almolonga, Concepcion Guatemala 

— — St. Pedro Guatemala 

Alotenango, St. Juan Guatemala 

Alotepeque, Mine Guatemala 

Alubaren Honduras 

Amapala Guatemala 

Amarateca Honduras 

Amatan Chiapa 

Amatenango Chiapa 

Santiago Guatemala 

Amatitan, St. Christov. Guatemala 

— — St. Domingo Guatemala 

St. Juan Guatemala 

St. Ana Honduras 

St, Ana Yucatan 



Districts. 

Soconusco 

Ciudad Real 

Soconusco 

Cap. of District 

Acasaguastlan 

Gueguetenango 

Chimaltenango 

Granada 

St. Salvador 

Tegucigalpa 

Comayagua 

Gueguetenango 

Ciudad Real 

Escuintla 

Zonzonate 

Chimaltenango 

Chimaltenango 

Totonicapan 

Chimaltenango 

Chimaltenango 

Tegucigalpa 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

St. Miguel 

Sacatepeques 

Quezaltenango 

Chimaltenango 

Chiquimula 

Tegucigalpa 

St. Miguel 

Tegucigalpa 

Ciudad Real 

Ciudad Real 

Gueguetenango 

Sacatepeques 

Chiquimula 

Sacatepeques 

Tegucigalpa 

Peten 



499 



Places. 

Santa Ana Grande 

Analco 

Anamoroz 

St. Andres 

St. Andres 

St. Andres, Mine 

St. Andres 

St. Andres Dean 

Angel 

St. Anton 

St. Antonio 

St. Antonio 

St. Antonio 

St. Antonio 

St. Antonio Mine 

St. Antonio del mont. 

Apaneca 

Apastepeque 

Apocapa, St. Pedro 

Santa Apolonia 

Apopa 

Aquespala 

Arambala 

Aramesiua 

Arcatao 

Aserri 

Asulco 

Ataco 

Ateos, St. Antonio 

Atiquipaque 

Atiquizaya 

Atescatempa 

Atirro Reduc 

Atitan, St. Juan 

Santiago 

Ayutla ruins 
Ayutustepeque 

Bachajum 

Bagases Town 

Balanyac 

Barba, St. Bartolome 

Santa Barbara 

Santa Barbara 

Santa Barbara 



Bishopricks. 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Yucatan 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Honduras 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Nicaragua 
G uatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 

Chiapa 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
2 K 2 



Districts. 
Cap. of District 
St. Vicente 
St. Miguel 
Ciudad Real 
A titan 
Comayagua 
Peten 

Sacatepeques 
Zonzonate 
Sacatepeques 
Ciudad Real 
St. Salvador 
Comayagua 
Comayagua 
Comayagua 
Zonzonate 
Zonzonate 
St. Vicente 
Chimaltenango 
Chimaltenango 
St. Salvador 
Ciudad Real 
St. Miguel 
Tegucigalpa 
St. Salvador 
Costa-Rica 
Guazacapan 
Zonzonate 
Santa Ana Grande 
Guazacapan 
Santa Ana Grande 
Chiquimula 
Costa-Rica 
Gueguetenango 
Cap. of District 
Soconusco 
St. Salvador 

Ciudad Real 

Costa-Rica 

Chimaltenango 

Costa-Rica 

Atitan 

Gueguetenango 

Comayagua 



500 



Places. 

St. Bartolome 

St. Bartol. de los Llanos 

St. Barnabe 

St. Bernardino 

Boaco 

Bobadilla, St. Catarina 

St. Buenaventura 

Buruca Reduc 

Cabrican 

Cacaguatlan 

Cacaoatique 

Cacaopera 

Cacauterique 

Cahabon, Santa Maria 

Caiquin 

Caluco 

Camasca 

Camoapa 

Camotan 

Cancuc 

Candelaria, N. S. de 

Candelaria, N. S. de 

Candelaria, N. S. de 

Cantarranas 

Cantel 

Carcha 

Caridad 

Cartago City 

Catacamas 

Catarina, Santa 

Cauque, Santa Maria 

Cedros Mine 

Celilac 

Cerquin 

Cerrillo 

Cesori 

Chaguite 

Chahul, St. Gaspar 

Chalatenango 

Chalchiguistlan St. Pab. 

Chalchuapa 

Chamelco 

Chamula 

Chapeltique Town 



Bishopricks. 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Yucatan 

Guatemala 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Ant. Guat. 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Nicaragua 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

G uatemala 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 



Districts. 

Sacatepeques 

Ciudad Real 

Peten 

Suchiltepeques 

Matagalpa 

Sacatepeques 

Comayagua 

Costa-Rica 

Quezaltenango 

Soconusco 

St. Miguel 

St. Miguel 

Comayagua 

Verapaz 

Comayagua 

Zonzonate 

Comayagua - 

Matagalpa 

Chiquimula 

Ciudad Real 

Sacatepeques 

Bar. de la N. G. 

Comayagua 

Tegucigalpa 

Quezaltenango 

Verapaz 

Comayagua 

Cap. de Costa- Rica 

Comayagua 

Atitan 

Sacatepeques 

Tegucigalpa 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Ciudad Real 

St. Miguel 

Chimaltenango 

Totonicapan 

St. Salvador 

Ciudad Real 

Santa Ana Grande 

Verapaz 

Ciudad Real 

St. Miguel 



oOl 



Places. 
Chapultenango 
Chiantla 

Chiapa de Indios 
Chiapilla 
Chicanguescoi 
Chicoacan 
Chicoi 

Chichicastenango 
Chichigalpa 
Chilanga 
Chiltiapa 
Chikim 
Chimalten, Santa Ana 

Santiago 

Chinacia 

Chinameca, St. Franc. 

—- St. Juan 

Chinandega 

Chinauta 

Chinda 

Chipalapa 

Chipiiapa 

Chiquazen 

Chiquimucelo 

Chiquimula de la Sierra 

Santa Maria 

Chiquimulilla 

Chiquiripiapa 

Choi, Santa Cruz del 

Choluteca Val. 

St. Christoval el alto. 

St. Christoval el bajo. 

Chuchi 

Chucuyuco 

Ciudad Real City 

St. Clara 

Coapilla 

Coatan 

Coatepeque 

Coban City 

Coginicuilapa 

Cojutepeque 

Coloete 

Colomoncagua 

Colosuca 



Bishopricks. 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Honduras 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Honduras 
Honduras 



Districts. 

Tustla 

Gueguetenango 

Tuxtia 

Ciudad Real 

Santa Ana Grande 

Tuxtia 

Chimaltenango 

Quiche 

Realejo 

St. Miguel 

Santa Ana Grande 

Ciudad Real 

Cap. de la Prov. 

Gueguetenango 

Comayagua 

St. Salvador 

St. Miguel 

Realejo 

Sacatepeques 

Comayagua 

Acasaguastlan 

Escuintla 

Tuxtia 

Ciudad Real 

Cap. of District 

Totonicapan 

Guazacapan 

Quezaltenango 

Verapaz 

Tegucigalpa 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Cap. de la Prov. 

Atitan 

Tuxtia 

Gueguetenango 

St. Ana Grande 

Cap. de la Prov. 

Guazacapan 

St. Salvador 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 



502 



Places. 


Bishoprlcks. 


Districts. 


Colotenango 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Comacaran 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Comalapa 


Nicaragua 


Mataoalpa 


Comalapam 


Chiapa 


Ciuda^d Real 


c^ <- r .-.^.^ 


Guatemala 
Guatemala 


Chimaltenango 
Guazacapam 


Comapa 


Coniayagua City 


Honduras 


Cap. de la Prov. 


Comayagiiela 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Comazagua 


Guatemala 


Santa Ana Grande 


Comitaguacan 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Comitan, Santa Cruz 


Guatemala 


Quezaltenango 


Comitlan 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Comoapa ruins 


Guatemala 


Escuintla 


Concepcion 


Guatemala 


A titan 


Conchagua 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Condega 


Nicaragua 


Leon 


Conguaco 


Guatemala 


Guazacapan 


Copainala 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Corpus Mine 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Cosumalguapan 


Guatemala 


Escuintla 


Cot 


Nicaragua 


Costa-Rica 


Cozal 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Santa Cruz 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


Santa Cruz 


Guatemala 


Solol^ 


Santa Cruz 


Guatemala 


Verapaz 


Cubulco 


Guatemala 


Verapaz 


Cuch, St. Christoval 


Guatemala 


Quezaltenango 


Cuchumatan, St. Martin 


. Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Tnrln" ^nnfn" ^""^^•^^-.lo 


Gueguetenango 
Comayagua 


Cucuyagua 


Honduras 


Cuilco 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Cunen 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Curaren 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Curridaba 


Nicaragua 


Costa-Rica 


Cururu 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Cuscatan 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Cuscatansingo 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Cusnagua 


Guatemala 


Santa Ana Grande 


Custepeques 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Custictali 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Cuyotenango 


Guatemala 


Suchiltepeques 


Cuyutitan 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Danll 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


San Diego . 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 



503 



Places. 

Diria 
Diriamba 
Diriomo 
Dolores, N. S. de 

Erandique 

Ereguaiquin 

Escasu 

Esclavos, Purif. de 

Escuintla Concepcion 

■ Santo Domingo 

Escuintenango 
Esparza City 
Espiritu Santo 
Esquipulas 
Esteli Town 
St. Estevan 
Santa Eulalia 

St. Felipe 

St. Felipe 

St. Fernando de Guada. 

St. Francisco Town 

St. Francisco, ruined 

St. Francisco el Alto. 

St. Gabriel 

D. Garcia 

St. Gaspar 

St. Geronimo 

St. Geronimo 

Goaimaca Town 

Gomera Villa de la 

Gotera 

Gracias ^ Dios City 

Granada City 

Guacara 

Guacotecte 

Guaimango 

Guaimoco 

Guajinlaca 

Guajiquiro 

Gualaco 

Gualala 

Gualan 



Bishop ricks. 
Nicaragua 
Nicaragua 
Nicaragua 
Yucatan 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Cbiapa 

Chiapa 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Cliiapa 

Chiapa 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Yucatan 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Guatemala 



Distrietj. 
Granada 
Granada 
Granada 
Peten 

Comayagua 

St. Miguel 

Costa- Rica 

Guazacapan 

Cap. de Prov. 

Soconusco 

Ciudad Real 

Costa-Rica 

Sacatepeques 

Chiquimula 

Segovia 

Chiquimula 

Gueguetenango 

Sacatepeques 
Ciudad Real 
Ciudad Real 
Tegucigalpa 
Atitan 
Totonicapan 

Tuxtla 

Escuintla 

Sacatepeques 

Secatepeques 

Peten 

Tegucigalpa 

Escuintla 

St. Miguel 

Comayagua 

Cap. of District 

St. Miguel 

St. Miguel 

Zonzonate 

Zonzonate 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Acasaguastan 



504 



Place*. 


Bishopricks. 


Districts. 


Gualcha 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Gualmoaca 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Gualococte 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Gualsime 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Guanacastle 


Nicaragua 


Nicoya 


Guanagazapa 


Guatemala 


EscLiintla 


Guaiicapla 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Guarajambala 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Guarita 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Guasavasque 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Guascoran 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Guatagiago 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Guatemala City 


Guatemala 


Cap. of the Kingdom 


Guatemala Old Town 


Guatemala 


Cap. de Prov. 


Guazacapan 


Guatemala 


Cap. of District 


Guazapa 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Gueguetan 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 


Gueguetenango 






• Coucepcion 


Guatemala 


Cap. of District 




Iti liatp'm'ji'j 


Gueguetenango 
G ueguetenango 


■ St. Sebastian 


\J Ucllclllala 

Guatemala 


Gueitiupan, Asunc. 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


— Santa Catarina Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


St. Pedro 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Guelosingo 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 


Guepetagua 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 


Guisapan, Sto. Doming( 


) Guatemala 


Zonzonate 


Guista 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 




Guatemala 
Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 
Gueguetenango 




Guistan 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Guisucar 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Santa Helena 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


Hermita, St. Juan 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


Ichil, St. Gaspar 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


llama 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Ilotenango 


Guatemala 


Solold 


Santa Ines 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


Intibucat 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Intipuca 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Ipala 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


Santa Isabel Godines 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


Isalco 


Guatemala 


Zonzonate 



505 



Places. 


Bishopricks. 


Districts. 


Isguatan 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 




Guatemala 
Chiapa 


Guazacapati 
Tuxtla 


Istacomitan 


Istaguacan 






— Santa Catarina 


Guatemala 


Sol old 


— St. Ildefonso 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


— St. Miguel 


Guatemala 


Quezaltenango 


Istapa 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Istapangajoya 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Istepeque 


Guatemala 


St. Vicente 


Ixcoi, St. Juan 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Ixtatan, St. Mateo 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Izapa 


Guatemala 


Chimaltenango 


Jacaltenango, St. Andr. 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


— Concepcion 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


— St. Marcos 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


— Puiiticacion 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


St. Jacinto 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


St. Jacinto 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


Jaitique 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Jalapa 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


— Santa Maria 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


Jalapa 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Jalpatagua 


Guatemala 


Guazacapan 


Jalteba 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Jaitique 


Guatemala 


Santa Ana Grande 


Jamastran 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Jano 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Jayaque 


Guatemala 


Santa Ana Grande 


Jeto 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Jilipango 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Jilobasco 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Jinotepet 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Jiquilisco 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Jocoaitique 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Jocoara 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Jocopilas, St. Pedro 


Guatemala 


Solold 


— St. Pablo 


Guatemala 


Suchiltepeques 


Jocon 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Jocon 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Joconquera 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Jocoro 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Jocotan 


G uatemala 


Chiquimula 


Jocotenango Old 


Guatemala 

2 L 


Sacatepeques 



506 



Places. 


Bishopricks. 


Districts. 


Jocotenango Nuevo 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


St. Bartolome 


Guatemala 


Solol^ 


St. Jorge 


I^icaragua 


Nicaragua 


St. Jorge 


Guatemala 


SoloU 


St. Jos^ 


Yucatan 


Peten 


St. Jose 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


St. Jos6 


Guatemala 


Solola 


Joyabach 


Guatemala 


Solola 


Jualapa 


Guatemala 


Santa Ana Grande 


St. Juan 


Honduras 


Coraayagua 


St. Juan Gascon 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


St. Juan de Guatem. 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


St. Juan de Laborio 


Nicaragua 


Leon 


St. Juan de la Lagun 


Guatemala 


Atitan 


St. Juan de los Lepros 


Guatemala 


Atitan 


J uayuba 


Guatemala 


Zonzonate 


Jucuapa 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Jucuaran 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Juigalpa 


Nicaragua 


Matagalpa 


Juniai, St. Francisco 


Guatemala 


Guazacapan 


Jumunique 


Guatemala 


Santa Ana Grande 


Jupitepeque 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


Jurla 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Jutiapa 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


Jutiapilla 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Juticalpa 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Juyuta 


G Lsatemala 


Zonzonate 


Lacampa 


Flondtuas 


Comayagua 


Lagigua 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Laguata 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Laiguala 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Langue 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


T .aniani 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Lanquin 


Guatemala 


Verapaz 


Lapaera 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Lauterique 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Lemoa 


Guatemala 


Solola 


Leon City 


Nicaragua 


Cap de la Prov. 


Lepaterique 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Lexamani 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Linaca 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Lislic 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Lobaga 


Nicaragua 


Matagalpa 


Lobiguisca 


Nicaragua 


Matagalpa 



507 



Places. Bishopricks. 

Lolotique, St. Francisco Guatemala 

— Trinidad Guatemala 
St. Lorenzo el Real Guatemala 
St. Lucas Chiapa 
St. Lucas Cabrera Guatemala 
Santa Lucia Monterr. Guatemala 
Santa Lucia Guatemala 
Santa Lucia Guatemala 
St. Lucia Mine Honduras 
St. Luis Yucatan 
St. Luis de las Garret Guatemala 

Macholoa Honduras 

La Magdalena Guatemala 

La Magdalena Chiapa 

Santa M. Magdalena Guatemala 

Santa M. Magdalena Chiapa 

Majatique Honduras 

Malacatan, Santa Ana Guatemala 

Managua Nicaragua 

Maniani Honduras 

Manto Honduras 

Mapastepeque Chiapa 

Marcala Honduras 

St. Marcos Guatemala 
St. Marcos de la Lagima Guatemala 

Santa Maria de Jesus Guatemala 

Santa Maria de Jesus Guatemala 

St. Martin Guatemala 

St. Martin Mine Honduras 

St. Martin Chiapa 

Masagua, St. Antonio Guatemala 

— Santa Catarina Guatemala 

— St. Luis Guatemala 

— St. Juan Guatemala 
— ~ St. Pedro Guatemala 
Masaya Nicaragua 
Matagalpa Nicaragua 
Mataquescuinta Guatemala 
St. Maleo Guatemala 
Mathiare Nicaragua 
Mazaguara Honduras 
Mazaltenango 

— St. Bartolome Guatemala 

— St. Gabriel Guatemala 

■ 2 L 2 



Distiicts. 

St. Miguel 

St. Miguel 

Suchiltepeques 

Ciudad Real 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Santa Ana Grande 

Acasaguastan 

Comayagua 

Peten 

Sacatepeques 

Comayagua 

Acasaguastan 

Tuxtla 

Sacatepeques 

Ciudad Real 

Comayagua 

Gueguetenango 

Granada 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Soconusco 

Comayagua 

Quezaltenango 

Atitan 

Sacatepeques 

Quezaltenango 

Quezaltenango 

Tegucigalpa 

Ciudad Real 

St. Salvador 

Zonzonate 

Escuintla 

Santa Ana Grande 

St. Salvador 

Granada 

Cap. of District 

Chiquimula 

Quezaltenango 

Leon 

Comayagua 

Suchiltepeques 
Suchiltepeques 



508 



Place*. Bislwpricks 

Mazaltenango, St. Lorenzo Guatemala 

Mazapa 

Mazapetagua, ruined 

Mazatan 



Mazatepet 

Metapa 

Metapas, St. Pedro 

Mexicanos 

— Asuncion 

— Santa Isabel 
Mexicapa 

— Asuncion 
Miambar 
Mianguera 
Micapa 

St. Miguel City 

St. Miguel 

St. Miguel 

St. Miguel, ruined 

St. Miguelito 

Milpa Dueiias 

Milpas altas, St. Ana 

— St. Bartolome 

— St. Mateo 

— St. Miguel 

— Santo Tomas 
Mita, Asuncion 

— Santa Catarina 
Mixco, Santo Domingo 
Mixtan, Santa Ana 

— St. Juan 
Mizata 

Moniostenango 
Moncagua 
Morolica 
Motocinta 
Moyos 
Moyuta 
Mozonte - 
Muimui 
Mustiquipaque 

Nacaome 
Nagarote 
Nagualate, ruined 



Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Chiapa 

Nicaragua 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Yucatan 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

G uatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 

Nicaragua 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 



Honduras 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 



Districts. 

Gueguetenango 

Gueguetenango 

Soconusco 

Soconusco 

Granada 

Leon 

Santa Ana Grande 

Ciudad Real 

St. Salvador 

Zonzonate 

Comayagua 

St. Miguel 

Comayagua 

St. Miguel 

Tuxtla 

Cap. of District 

Peten 

Ciudad Real 

Suchiltepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Chimaltenango 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Chiquimula 

Chiquimula 

Sacatepeques 

Escuinda 

Escuintla 

Santa Ana Grande 

Totonicapan 

St. Miguel 

Tegucigalpa 

Gueguetenango 

Ciudad Real 

Guazacapan 

Nueva Segovia 

Matagalpa 

Guazacapan 

Tegucigalp a 

Leon 

Suchiltepeques 



509 



Places. 


Bishopricks 


Districts. 


Naguatlan, ruined 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 


Nahuisalco 


Guatemala 


Zonzonate 


Namasiguet 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Namotiva, Santa Catal, 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


— St. Juan 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Nancinta 


Guatemala 


Guazacapan 


Nandagomo 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Nandaime 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Navia, Santa Maria de 


Nicaragua 


Leon 


Naulingo 


Guatemala 


Zonzonate 


Nebah, Santa Maria 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Necta, St. Pedro 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Nejapa 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 


— St. Antonio 


Guatemala 


Chimaltenango 


— St. Geronimo 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Nicaragua Town 


Nicaragua 


Cap. of District 


Nicaragua Pueblo 


Nicaragua 


Nicaragua 


St. Nicolas Laborio 


Nicaragua 


Leon 


Nicoya 


Nicaragua 


Cap. of District 


Nindiri 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Niquinohomo 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Nueva Segovia City 


Nicaragua 


Cap. of District 


Nunualco, St. Juan 


Guatemala 


St. Vicente 


— St. Pedro 


Guatemala 


St. Vicente 


— St. Tiago 


Guatemala 


St. Vicente 


Ocotal 


Nicaragua 


Nueva Segovia 


Ocotepeque 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Ocotepeque 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Ocotzocoutla 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Ocosingo 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Ojojona 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Ojuera 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Olancho 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Olanchito City 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Olintepeque 


Guatemala 


Quezaltenango 


Olocuilta 


Guatemala 


St. Salvador 


Ometepet 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Opatoro 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Opico, St. Juan 


Guatemala 


Santa Ana Grande 


Opoa 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Opoteca 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Orica 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Orocuina 


Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Orosi 


Nicaragua 


Costa- Rica 



510 



Places. 

Osicala 

OsolocalcOj ruined 

Ostuacaq 

Ostuma 

Ostuncalco 

Ostuta 

Osumazinta 

Oxchuc 



Bishopricks. 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Ghiapa 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Chiapa 

Chiapa 



St. Pablo de la Laguna Guatemala 

Pacaca Nicaragua 

Palacaguina Nicaragua 

Paleca Guatemala 

Palenque, St. Dom. Chiapa 

Panahachel Guatemala 

Panchimalco Guatemala 

Pantepeque Chiapa 

Parramos Guatemala 

Pasaco Guatemala 

Pastores Guatemala 

Patulul Guatemala 

Patzicia Guatemala 

Patzum Guatemala 

St. Pedro Chiapa 
St. Pedro de las Huertes Guatemala 

St. Pedro de la Laguna Guatemala 

Perquin Guatemala 

Perulapan, St, Bart. Guatemala 

- — St. Martin Guatemala 

— - St. Pedro Guatemala 

Pespire Nicaragua 

Petalcingo Chiapa 

Petapa, Concep. Town Guatemala 

- — Santa Ines Guatemala 

— St. Miguel Guatemala 
Petatan Guatemala 
Petoa Honduras 
Pinula, Santa Catarina Guatemala 

— St. Miguel Chiapa 

— St. Pedro Guatemala 
Pipixiapa Chiapa 
Piraera Honduras 
Platanos Chiapa 
Pochuta Chiapa 
Polopo, St. Antonio Guatemala 



Districts. 

St. Miguel 
Soconusco 
Tuxtla 
St. Vicente 
Quezaltenango 
Ciudad Real 
Tuxtla 
Ciudad Real 

A titan 

Costa- Rica 

Leon 

St. Salvador 

Ciudad Real 

A titan 

St. Salvado 

Tuxtla 

Chimaltenango 

Guazacapan 

Sacatepeques 

Atitan 

Chimaltenango 

Chimaltenango 

Ciudad Real 

Sacatepeques 

Atitan 

St. Miguel 

St. Salvador 

St. Salvador 

St. Salvador 

Tegucigalpa 

Ciudad Real 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Gueguetenango 

Comayagua 

Sacatepeques 

Ciudad Real 

Chiquimula 

Soconusco 

Comavagua 

Ciudad Real 

Tuxtla 

Atitan 



oil 



Places. 
Poloroz 
Posoltega 
Posolteguilla 
Posta 
Potrerillos 
Puchuta, ruined 
Pueblo Abajo 
Pueblo del Real 
Pueblo Nuevo 
Pueblo Nuevo 
Pueblo Nuevo 
Pueblo Nuevo 
Pueblo Nuevo 
Puringla 
Pustia, St. Pedro 



Bishopricks. 

Guatemala 

Nicaragua 

Nicaragua 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Nicaragua 

Nicaragua 

Chiapa 

Chiapa 

N icaragua 

Honduras 

Guatemala 



Districts. 

St. Miguel 

Subtiava 

Subtiava 

Comayagua 

Tegucigalpa 

Atitan 

Tegucigalpa 

Comayagua 

Leon 

Nueva Segovia 

Tuxtla 

Tuxtla 

Costa-Rica 

Comayagua 

Zonzonate 



Quechula Chiapa 

Quelepa Guatemala 

Quesailica Honduras 

Quesalcoatitan Guatemala 

Quesalguaque Nicaragua 
Quezaltenango 

— Espiritu Santo Guatemala 

St. Sebastian Guatemala 

Quezaltepeque Guatemala 

Concepcion Guatemala 

St. Francisco Guatemala 

Quiche, Santa Cruz Guatemala 

Quirc6 Nicaragua 

Rabinal, St. Pablo Guatemala 

St. Raimundo Guatemala 

St. Ramon Nicaragua 

Realejo Town Nicaragua 

Reitoca Honduras 

Remedies, N. S. de Yucatan 

• N. Sta. de Bar. Guatemala 

. Sta. Mar.de los Guatemala 

Retaluleu, St. Antonio Guatemala 

. St. Cataiina Guatemala 

. Sto. Domingo Guatemala 



Sacacoyo Guatemala 

Sacapulas, St. Domingo Guatemala 
Sacatecokica Guatemaki 



Tuxtla 
St. Miguel 
Comayagua 
Zonzonate 
Subtiava 

Cap. of District 

Suchiltepeques 

St. Salvador 

St. Salvador 

Chiquimula 

Solola 

Costa-Rica 

Verapaz 

Sacatepeques 

Matagalpa 

Cap. of District 

Tegucigalpa 

Cap. del Peten. 

Sacatepeques 

St. Miguel 

Suchiltepepues 

Suchiltepeques 

Suchiltepeques 

Santa Ana Grande 
Gueguetenaago 

St. Vicente 



512 



Places 

Sacatepeques 

■' ■ — St. Antonio 
' St. Juan 

• St. Lucas 

St. Pedro 

St. Pedro 

. St. Tiago 

Saguayapa 

Sahcaja, St. Luis 

Salama 

St. Salvador City 

Samayaque 

Sambo 

Santiago 

Santiago 

Zaniora 

Guistlan 



Bishopricks. 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Honduras 

Guatemala 



Sapota 

Sapotan 

Sapotitlan, St. Francisco Guatemala 

• St. Felipe, ruined Guatemala 

St. Luis, ruined Guatemala 



St. Martin 



Sause 

Sayula 

Sebaco 

St. Sebastian 

St. Sebastian 

St, Sebastian 

Sensembla 

Sensenti 

Sensimon 

Sensuntepeque 

Serquin 

Siguacatepeque 

Sija, St. Carlos 

Silca 

Similator 

Simojovel 

Sinacamecayo, ruined 

Sinacantan, St. Domingo Chiapa 

■ Santa Isabel Guatemala 
Sipacapa Guatemala 

Siquinala Guatemala 

Soconusquillo Chiapa 



Guatemala 

Nicaragua 

Chiapa 

Nicaragua 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Chiapa 

Guatemala 



Districts. 

Quezaltenango 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Quezaltenango 

Sacatepeques 

St. Vicente 

Totonicapan 

Verapaz 

Cap. de la Prov. 

Suchiltepeques 

Suchiltepeques 

Sacatepeques 

Comayagua 

Chimaltenango 

Ciudad Real 

Comayagua 

Santa Ana Grande 

Suchiltepeques 

Suchiltepeques 

Suchiltepeques 

Suchiltepeques 

Leon 

Tuxtia 

Matagalpa 

Bar. de la N. G. 

Sacatepeques 

Comayagua 

St. Miguel 

Comayagua 

St. Miguel 

St. Vicente 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Totonicapan 

Comayagua 

Comayagua 

Ciudad Real 

Escuintla 

Ciudad Real 

Guazacapan 

Quezaltenango 

Escuintla 

Soconusco 



13 



Places. 

Solol^ 

Soloma 

Solosuchiapa 

Somotan 

Soraotillo 

Sonaguera Town 

Sonsacate 

Soyalo 

Soyatitan 

Subchiapa 

Subtiava 

Suchiltepeques, St. 

Suchitoto 

Sulaco 

Sumpango 

Sunil 

Sunuapa 

Suyapango 



Bishoprlcks. 

Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Nicaragua 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Chiapa 
Chiapa 
Nicaragua 
Anton. Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 



Tacachico 

Tacana 

Tacpa 

Tacuba 

Tacuilula, St. Maria 

Tacuscalco 

Tajumulco 

Talgua 

Taltique, Santa Maria 

Tamaju 

Tamara 

Tambla 

Tanuluaca 

Tapachula 

Tapalapan 

Tapilula 

Tatumbla 

Taxisco 

Tec a pa 

Techanco 

Tecoaco 

Tecoluca 

Tecpatlan 

Tegucigalpa Town 

Tejutla, St. Tiago 

' Sto. Tomas 



Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Honduras 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Chiapa 

Chiapa 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 

Chiapa 

Honduras 

Guatemala 

Guatemala 



Districts. 
Cap. de Prov. 
Gueguetenango 
Tuxtla 
Acasaguastan 
Leon 

Comayagua 
Zonzonate 
Tuxtla 
Ciudad Real 
Tuxtla 

Cap. of District 
Suchiltepeques 
St. Salvador 
Comayagua 
Sacatepeques 
Quezaltenango 
Tuxtla 
St. Salvador 

Santa Ana Grande 

Quezaltenango 

St. Salvador 

Zonzonate 

Guazacapan 

Zonzonate 

Quezaltenango 

Comayagua 

Verapaz 

Verapaz 

Tegucigalpa 

Comayagua 

St. Salvador 

Soconusco 

Tuxtla 

Tuxtla 

Comayagua 

Guazacapan 

St. Miguel 

St. Salvador 

Escuintla 

St. Vicente 

Tuxtla 

Cap. of District 

Quezaltenango 

St. Salvador 



514 



Places. 

Telica 

Tembla abaxo 

Tembla arriba 

Tenambla 

Tenango 

Tenansingo 

Tencoa 

Tenejapa 

Teopisca 

Teotepeque 

Teotitan 

Tepanguatemala 

Tepeaco 

Tepecoyo 

Tepesomoto 

TepesoMte, St. Juan 



St. MigueJ 



Teupasenti 
Tespaneca 
Terraba 
Teustepet 
Texaquang. St. Marc. 

St. Tiago 

Sto. Tomas 

Texar, St. Lorenzo 
— St. Miguel 
St. Sebastian 



Texiguat 

Texincal 

Texis, St. Estevan 

lezcuaco 

Ticamaya 

Tila 

Tipitapa 

Tircagua 

Titiguapa Town 

Tiuma 

Tizapa 

Tobosi 

Toliman 

To mala 

Tonacatepeque 

Tonala 

Santo Toribio 

Torola 



Bishopricks. 

Nicaragua 
Honduras 
Honduras 
> Honduras 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Chiapa 
Chiapa 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Nicaragua 
Nicaragua 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Chiapa 
Nicaragua 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Chiapa 
Nicaragua 
Guatemala 
Honduras 
Guatemala 
Chiapa 
Yucatan 
Guatemala 



Districts. 
Subtiava 
Cooiayagua . 
Coniayagua 
Cooiayagua 
CiLidad Real 
St. Salvador 
Comayagua 
Ciudad Real 
Ciudad Real 
Santa Ana Grande 
G ueguetenango 
ChimaltenanoTQ 
Guazacapan 
Santa Ana Grande 
Nueva Segovia 
St. Salvador 
St. Salvador 
Tegucigalpa 
Leon 

Costa- Rica 
Matagalpa 
St. Salvador 
St. Salvador 
St. Salvador 
Sacatepeques 
Sacatepeques 
Sacatepeques 
Tegucigalpa 
St. Salvador 
Santa Ana Grande 
Guazacapan 
Comayagua 
Ciudad Real 
Granada 
Tegucigalpa 
St. Vicente 
Comayagua 
Soconusco 
Costa-Rica 
A titan 
Comayagua 
St. Salvador 
Soconusco 
Peten 
St. Mio-uel 






Places. 


Bishopricks. 


Districts. 


Totogalpa 


Nicaragua 


Nueva Segovia 


Totolapa 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Totonicapan 






St. Chiistoval 


Guatemala 


Totonicapan 


— St. Miguel 


Guatemala 


Cap. de Prov. 


Truxillo City 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


l\icurrique 


Nicaragua 


Costa-Rica 


Tucuru 


Guatemala 


Verapaz 


Tumbald 


Chiapa 


Ciudad Real 


Tutiiapa 


Guatemala 


Quezaltenango 


Tuxtla 


Chiapa 


Cap. of District 


Tuxtla 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 


Tuzantlan, ruined 


Chiapa 


Soconusco 


Vacas, Valle de las 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


Vaquitcpeque 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Verapaz, St. Christoval 


Guatemala 


Verapaz 


St. Vicente de Austr. 


Guatemala 


Cap, of District 


Viejo, Pueblo del 


Nicaragua 


Realejo 


Villa Hermosa 


Nicaragua 


Costa- Rica 


Villa Nuev. de St. Jos6 


Nicaragua 


Costa-Rica 


Villa seca, St. Andr. 


Guatemala 


Suchiltepeques 


Villa Vieja 


Nicaragua 


Costa-Rica 


Visitac. de Ntia. Sra. 


Guatemala 


Atitan 


Ujaraz Town 


Nicaragua 


Costa-Rica 


Uluazapa 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Uspantan 


Guatemala 


Gueguetenango 


Usulutan 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Utatlan, Santa Lucia 


Guatemala 


Solol^ 


Xecul, St. Andres 


Guatemala 


Totonicapan 


Xeres de la Front. Town Honduras 


Tegucigalpa 


Xicaro 


Nicaragua 


Granada 


Xilotepeque, St. Luis 


Guatemala 


Chiquimula 


St. Jacinto 


Guatemala 


Chimaltenango 


St. Martin 


Guatemala 


Chimaltenango 


Xinaco, Santo Domingo 


Guatemala 


Sacatepeques 


Xinotega 


Nicaragua 


Matagalpa 


Xiquipilas 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Xitotol 


Chiapa 


Tuxtla 


Yalaguina 


Nicaragua 


Nueva Segovia 


Yamabal 


Guatemala 


St. Miguel 


Yambalanguira 


Honduras 


Comayagua 


Yarula 


Honduras 


Comayagua 



516 



Places. 


Bishopricks, 


Yaxalum 


Chiapa 


Yayaguita 


Chiapa 


Yayantique 


Guatemala 


Yoloaiquin 


Guatemala 


Yolula 


Honduras 


Yoquoaiquin 


Guatemala 


Yoro Town 


Honduras 


Yusgare 


Honduras 


Zacabah, St. Andres 


Guatemala 


Zacapa, St. Pablo 


Guatemala 


St. Pedro 


Guatemala 


Zacualpa, el Esp. Santo 


Guatemala 


Zapaluta 


Chiapa 


Zaragoza Town 


Guatemala 


Zibacd 


Chiapa 


Zintalapa 


Chiapa 


Zitald, St. Francisco 


Guatemala 


St. Pedro 


Chiapa 


Zonzonate Town 


Guatemala 


Zozocoltenango 


Chiapa 


Zula, St. Pedro City 


Honduras 



Districts. 

Ciudad Real 
Ciudad Real 
St. Miguel 
St. Miguel 
Comayagua 
St Miguel 
Comayagua 
Tegucigalpa 

Solold 

Acasaguastan 

Acasaguastan 

Solold 

Ciudad Real 

Chimaltenango 

Ciudad Real 

Tuxtla 

St, Salvador 

Ciudad Real 

Cap. de Prov. 

Ciudad Real 

Comayagua 



AN 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX, 



Acasaguastlan, district of 
Amatique, alcaldia of • 
Anne, St. district of 




Page 
46 

310 
31 


Ants, warrior 




241 


Atitan, district of • • 




89 


• lake of • 




91 


Balsam-coast aad Balsam 


. 


262 


Cartage, city of - • • « . . 
Chancery royal, of Guatemala 

Chapuli, a species of grasshopper very extraordinary 
Chiapa, province of • • • 
Chimaltenango, province of • • . . 
Chiquimula, province of .... 


75 

126 
. 495 
13 
91 
43 
47 
' SOO 
51 




• 


Ciudad Real, district of 


^'t f 


. 


15 
213 

52 

338 

. 142 


' ciiy or • • 


Comayagua, district of 
Contreras, Rodrigo de, revolt of 
Consulate, tribunal of the 


. . . 


Copan, great circus of • 

Corporation, or ayuntamiento of Guatemala 

Costa-Rica, province of 


56 

. 129 

73 


Dulce, port of • . - 


. 


' 310 


Xlsclavos, Rio de los, bridge of 


. 


. 239 


Escuintla, province of 


• 


24 

26 

. 237 


remarkable objects in the 


' province of • 



518 

Gracias k Dios, city of • 

Granada, city of • 

Guatemala, kingdom of, in general 

old city of • . 

— new city of . 

chronological account of 

foundation of, by Alvarado 

calamitous events of 

monarchy of, established befor 



of the Spaniards 

— kings of 

never subject to the Mexican empire 



the 



arrival 



— number of provinces in, at different periods • 

- city, different positions of, under the Spaniards 
valley of, described 



Guazacapan, district of 
Gueguetenango, district of 

Honduras, province of • 

— discovery of, and foundation of the pr 

cities, &c. 

Indians, laws and government of 

. manners and customs of 

of Chiapa, origin of 

. Choi, Lacandon, and Mopan, reduction 

Insurrection, almost general • 
Istapa, bar of 
Itzaes, reduction of 

Kachiquels, conquest of the capital of the • 

Languages, native, variety and inconvenience of 
Leon, district of • 
city of 

Maguey-tree, description of 
Mam Indians, conquered 
Matagalpa, district of 
Michael, St. district of • 

city of 

Mint, royal, of Guatemala 
Mixco, ancient city of 



ncipal 



Page 

53 

G5 

104 
115 
118 
124 
145 

161 
164 
200 
204 
404 
475 
27 
79 

49 
322 

187 
192 
207 
275 
433 
237 
287 

396 

198 
63 
63 

477 

456 

70 

36 

37 

139 

385 



510 



Mixco, fortress of, taken .... 
cavern of • • • • 

Nicaragua, province of .... 

— lake of ' • • 

tliscovery and settlement of 

Nicoya, district of ..... 

Notices, succinct, of the natural and political history of 
the principal places • • • 

Observations, preliminary .... 

Patinamit, ancient city of • • • • 

Penol, cave of • • • • • 

Peten, district of • 

• conquest of ... 

Pipil Indians established on the coast of the Pacific 
Polochie river, advantages of navigating 
Provinces on the sea-coast to the southward 

Pacific, conquered 

■ — insurgent, reduced .... 



Quezaltenango, province of 

Quiches, account of, before the conquest 

princesses of, the abduction of 

conquest of • • 

Realejo, district and port 
Roatan, island of . 

Sacatepeques, conquest of 
Salvador, St. province of 

district of . 

— city of 

city, foundation of 

province, invasion of by Estete 

province, objects worthy of notice in 

Sinacam, king, captured 
Siquechui, king, captured 
Soconusco, district of 
Springs, periodical 

salt water 

sour water 



520 



a^, nl 



Skeletons, gigantic 
Society, royal economical 
Solola, province of 
Snbtiava, district of 
Suchiltepeques, province of 



Taguzgalpa, reduction of . . 

• murder of missionaries in 

unconverted proinces of 

Talamanca, conquest of • 
Taxes, general administration of 
Tegucigalpa, district of • 
Tepulcuat snake, with two heads 
Thomas, St, port of • • . 

Tobacco revenue, directory of 
Tolagalpa, unconverted provinces of 

conquest of • 

— murder of missionaries in 

Totonicapan, province of 

district of . 

Truxillo, city of • • • . 

Tultecas, history of • • • 

Tuxtla, district of . • . 

Tzeudales, province of, reconquered 

University of St. Carlos de Guatemala 
Uspantan, fortress of, taken 
Utatlan, ancient city of • 

Verapaz, province of • • • 

conquest of, and attempts to convert 

remarkable objects in 

Vincent, St. district of • 
Volcan de Agua, description of 

Wars of the Spaniards in Chiquimula 



Xelaluh, ancient city of, captured by the Spaniards 
Zutigil Indians conquered .... 

Printed bj J. F. Dove, St. John's Square, London. 



_ — »— T- — --«- — -^ 



308 

14-3 

85 

71 

21 

350 
367 

62 
373 
141 

59. 
241 
315 
141 

62 
346 
355 

77 

77 

52 
173 

19 
221 

131 

469 
86 

38 
264 
270 

34 
489 

300 

379 

419 



)\n 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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